Rose Heim on tue 3 nov 09
I am using stoneware to create sculptural work. I would like to try Amaco=
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Matt glazes which recommend bisqueing to 04 and firing to 05. I would not=
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fire=3D20
the stoneware to maturity first since this is not functional work.
Has anyone tried this or something similar? I would appreciate any input=3D=
20=3D
concerning this approach.
James Freeman on tue 3 nov 09
Rose...
That is precisely what I do with my sculptural work. I use only one clay
body for everything, in my case Rovin RO-01 "You Betcha". It is a cone 6-1=
0
porcelainous stoneware, but I have used it from cone 04 all the way to cone
15 in a wood kiln.
For my sculptural pieces, some of which can be seen on my Flickr page in my
signature below if you are curious, I bisque most things to cone 04 (or
occasionally cone 6 for certain effects or for more structural strength),
then glaze with a variety of cone 04 and 06 glazes.
Go for it. You won't have any problems.
Good luck.
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/clayart/
On Tue, Nov 3, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Rose Heim wrote:
> I am using stoneware to create sculptural work. I would like to try Amaco
> Matt glazes which recommend bisqueing to 04 and firing to 05. I would not
> fire
> the stoneware to maturity first since this is not functional work.
> Has anyone tried this or something similar? I would appreciate any input
> concerning this approach.
>
Snail Scott on tue 3 nov 09
On Nov 3, 2009, at 7:15 AM, Rose Heim wrote:
> I am using stoneware to create sculptural work. I would like to try
> Amaco
> Matt glazes which recommend bisqueing to 04 and firing to 05...
I don't know these particular products, but I
have used low-fire glazes on stoneware
sculpture. I agree that there is no absolute
need to fire to vitrification for most sculpture,
but firing much lower can bring up some issues.
Undervitrified clay will absorb moisture, and the
resulting microexpansion causes the glazes to
eventually craze even if they have good fit to start
with, unlikely with undervitrified clay anyway.
Undervitrified clay will not survive a freeze-thaw
cycle for long, so you cannot sell the work as
suitable for outdoors - a marketing limitation.
Undervitrified clay will not be as strong - an issue
for shipping if the work is delicate in form.
I usually fire to vitrification, with whatever engobes
or glazes I'm using that are best at that temperature,
then I apply any low-fire glazes and refire to their
appropriate temperature. It's harder to get a good
glaze coating on vitrified clay, but I'd rather do that
(or else work in earthenware) than underfire the
stoneware clay by more than a few cones.
-Snail
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