Ali Shapiro Cudby on sat 14 nov 09
First, I have looked at the archives before posting this...lots of
good info there. I'd still value input on some specifics to my
situation. Thanks (as always) for the expert advice I get from Clarart!
I'll be moving later this month, and have spent a while pondering kiln
placement. I'm a hobby potter moving into a new suburban house
(firing a couple times a month, between bisque and glaze). It's a L&L
Jupiter kiln, which does not currently have a vent - it has been in a
well-ventilated detached garage til now.
The house is long, with the mechanical room on one side (in the
basement) and an attached garage on the other. The run from the
electrical box to the far side of the garage would probably be around
75 feet and is not a straight shot through the joist bays. The
mechanical room is large, and easily big enough for the kiln, but no
windows. To vent directly to the outside I'd have to drill through 10-
inch concrete walls. There IS a window well outside that space, so I
could drill straight through, do not have to get up to first floor to
hit daylight. I could also punch a hole through the drywall (much
easier) and vent out the window around the corner...if that works
equally well. Does it?
For safety reasons I'd much rather have the kiln out of the basement.
I'm willing to run an electrical line to the garage, but not sure it's
easy and my understanding is that the quality of the electrical
degrades if the run is too long. True?
In theory, I could run the wire to the outside and put the kiln out
there. Not sure what would be needed for this, not sure I love the
idea...but it's an option.
Please tell me there's another great option I haven't thought of yet!
I love everything about our new house, especially the light-filled
room (with sink) for my studio...I will be so happy when this problem
is solved!
Ali Cudby
Cudby's Mud
alicudby@mac.com
John Post on sat 14 nov 09
> For safety reasons I'd much rather have the kiln out of the basement.
> I'm willing to run an electrical line to the garage, but not sure it's
> easy and my understanding is that the quality of the electrical
> degrades if the run is too long. True?
You need to use a thicker wire when the electricity has to make a
longer run. In my kiln manual, the manufacturer gives recommendations
for the proper wire size to use based on the length of the run.
If it was me, I would determine where the ideal spot for the kiln was,
then call some electricians for estimates. I got a great deal on a
kiln installation by using a licensed electrician my dad found in his
church paper. Times are tough, you should be able to find an
electrician who needs some work.
John Post
Sterling Heights, Michigan
:: cone 6 glaze website :: http://www.johnpost.us
:: elementary art website :: http://www.wemakeart.org
>
James Freeman on sat 14 nov 09
On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 10:46 AM, Ali Shapiro Cudby wrote=
:
The house is long, with the mechanical room on one side (in the
basement) and an attached garage on the other. The run from the
electrical box to the far side of the garage would probably be around
75 feet and is not a straight shot through the joist bays.
For safety reasons I'd much rather have the kiln out of the basement.
I'm willing to run an electrical line to the garage, but not sure it's
easy and my understanding is that the quality of the electrical
degrades if the run is too long. True?
Ali...
Talk to a licensed electrician. I had a similar issue in my studio. The
power was originally run to the far corner of the metals side of my buildin=
g
in order to be close to the welder. The kilns, of course, ended up in the
opposite corner, about a 70' run. The solution suggested by my electrician
was to run a big, fat service cable (in my case I believe they specified
three conductor #2 aluminum) from the panel to the kiln room, where I
installed a 100 amp sub-panel. It was not an expensive job. The aluminum
service cable is a fraction of the cost of heavy copper cable. I ran the
cable myself, and also purchased and installed the sub-panel. The
electrician then made all of the connections. This solution allowed me not
only to wire in the kilns with very short runs of the expensive #8 and #4
copper respectively, but also allowed me to wire the entire studio into one
convenient panel that was readily accessible.
HUGE DISCLAIMER: I am NOT offering electrical advice! Talk to a qualified
electrician! Don't do ANYTHING I say, EVER! Don't even listen to me! Com=
e
to think of it, I never even said any of this!
All the best
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/clayart/
Arnold Howard on wed 18 nov 09
From: "Ali Shapiro Cudby"
To vent directly to the outside I'd have to drill through
10-
> inch concrete walls. There IS a window well outside that
> space, so I
> could drill straight through, do not have to get up to
> first floor to
> hit daylight. I could also punch a hole through the
> drywall (much
> easier) and vent out the window around the corner...if
> that works
> equally well. Does it?
-----------
You can vent through a window. Cut a piece of tight-fitting
plywood to fit in an open window. Attach the vent outlet to
that plywood. When you are not venting the kiln, remove the
plywood and close the window.
Something else to take into consideration: Fumes from the
vent may enter the house through a window that is near the
vent exit point.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
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