Felicity Rich on sun 15 nov 09
What is the best finish for a studio/ classroom work table. Mine needs to b=
e
refinished.
Thanks,
Felicity Rich
Triton College
Michael Wendt on sun 15 nov 09
I recommend laminate. We buy on sale for $0.50/ square foot
remnants and can cover a 2' x 3' table for $3.00 plus the
contact cement needed to coat both the table top and the
underside of the laminate.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Felicity wrote:
What is the best finish for a studio/ classroom work table.
Mine needs to be
refinished.
Thanks,
Felicity Rich
Triton College
Richard White on sun 15 nov 09
If the table is for clay work, the best "finish" is canvas. Get several
yards (enough to cover the length of the table) of "painter's canvas" at
your local fabric store. The lighter muslin canvas tends to stretch a bit=
=3D
as
you work on it, and the heavier sailcloth is overkill.
If the table is a work area for glazing, plastic laminate (Formica is one=
=3D
brand, but you can get other less expensive brands) is waterproof and
durable, and thus easy to clean up. If you can't do that and instead wish=
=3D
to
paint the table, use a concrete floor paint. That may sound crazy, but sa=
=3D
nd
the tabletop thoroughly and the paint will go on just fine, and it's near=
=3D
ly
indestructible.
dw
John Hesselberth on mon 16 nov 09
On Nov 15, 2009, at 9:21 PM, Richard White wrote:
> If the table is for clay work, the best "finish" is canvas. Get =3D
several
> yards (enough to cover the length of the table) of "painter's canvas" =3D
at
> your local fabric store. The lighter muslin canvas tends to stretch a =3D
bit as
> you work on it, and the heavier sailcloth is overkill
I used to have canvas covered tables, but have now gone to plastic =3D
laminate. While I agree canvas is a great surface to work on, there is =3D
no way to keep it from becoming a clay dust problem. Every time someone =3D
throws a ball of clay onto a canvas surface a dust cloud will be the =3D
result. I relay don't want that in my lungs and neither do I want to =3D
have to wear a dust mask all the time in my studio.
Regards,
John
Randall Moody on mon 16 nov 09
On Sun, Nov 15, 2009 at 9:21 PM, Richard White wrote:
> If the table is for clay work, the best "finish" is canvas. Get several
> yards (enough to cover the length of the table) of "painter's canvas" at
> your local fabric store. The lighter muslin canvas tends to stretch a bit
> as
> you work on it, and the heavier sailcloth is overkill.
>
> If the table is a work area for glazing, plastic laminate (Formica is one
> brand, but you can get other less expensive brands) is waterproof and
> durable, and thus easy to clean up. If you can't do that and instead wish
> to
> paint the table, use a concrete floor paint. That may sound crazy, but sa=
nd
> the tabletop thoroughly and the paint will go on just fine, and it's near=
ly
> indestructible.
>
> dw
>
You can get HardiBoard and screw it to the table top. Canvas holds dust and
clay sticks well to laminate. Canvas is the old stand by however, and it is
cheap.
--
Randall in Atlanta
Fred Parker on mon 16 nov 09
I have to agree with John here. I often wonder why canvas has become the=
=3D
ad
hoc standard for clay work surfaces. I suspect it "just happened" at som=
=3D
e
point, and now the marketplace actually sells sheeting designed to avoid =
=3D
the
canvas imprint. I can think of many more disadvantages than advantages t=
=3D
o
using canvas...
More from necessity than design I began using a painted wood surface for =
=3D
all
of my handbuilding work -- including wedging. A damp sponge removes
residual clay so dust is minimized. If some clay sticks I just scrape it=
=3D
off with my fingers or a plastic rib. Although I haven't used it it seem=
=3D
s
to me a perfect surface would be either Masonite or thin MDF with a coat =
=3D
of
urethane varnish.=3D20
Fred Parker
On Mon, 16 Nov 2009 06:53:50 -0500, John Hesselberth
wrote:
>I used to have canvas covered tables, but have now gone to plastic
laminate. While I agree canvas is a great surface to work on, there is no=
=3D
way to keep it from becoming a clay dust problem. Every time someone thro=
=3D
ws
a ball of clay onto a canvas surface a dust cloud will be the result. I
relay don't want that in my lungs and neither do I want to have to wear a=
=3D
dust mask all the time in my studio.
Russel Fouts on tue 17 nov 09
I ripped off all my canvas, it collected too much dust and was too
hard to keep clean.
I now use a good unfinished particle board, which works great, is
easy to clean with wet sponging, nothing sticks to it unless it's got
wet, dries quickly and it leaves a very slight, irregular texture
that I like or if I don't want, I can smooth off easilly.
I bought a full sized sheet and had them cut it in 4 across the short
width so I have 4 sheets. These I simply lay on the bench/table, and
clamp the two end ones to lock them all in position.
These are also the same size I use for ware boards so it's easy to
fill one up with slabs or work and swap an empty one in.
If I need to roll long coils that are longer than the sections are
wide, I just put one down across the table.
It works pretty well for me.
BUT what I'd really like to try sometime is slate or cement. Both, I
think would be nice surfaces to work on, no stick, easy to clean and
the black slate would be beautiful.
Russel
Russel Fouts
Mes Potes & Mes Pots
Brussels, Belgium
Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
http://www.mypots.com
Home of "The Potters Portal"
Over 3000 Pottery Related Links!
Updated infrequently
"Look, it's my misery that I have to paint this kind of painting,
it's your misery that you have to love it, and the price of the
misery is thirteen hundred and fifty dollars. "
- Mark Rothko, In Art/Painting
Keith Arbogast on wed 18 nov 09
BUT what I'd really like to try sometime is slate or cement. Both, I
think would be nice surfaces to work on, no stick, easy to clean and
the black slate would be beautiful.
Russel
--------------------
We use a concrete stepping stone as a work surface for certain tasks
like wedging. It has a smooth surface and is two feet on an edge.
It's heavy enough that it doesn't jiggle around, but light enough to
move if we wished to do that. Found it in the garden section of a
local lumber yard.
Best wishes,
Keith Arbogast
Steve Mills on wed 18 nov 09
One of my work surfaces is always Slate. We had Slate at College, and if
ever a piece became available I'd grab it, though sometimes, if they get
frosted they can throw small flakes off which is a pain in your clay.
I've still got a couple left; one became the "floor" of the Larder, the
other, once part of a Billiard table, is in my workshop next to my Wheel.
Lovely to work on, slightly absorbent, and VERY smooth!!
Steve M
On Tue, Nov 17, 2009 at 7:38 PM, Russel Fouts wrote=
:
> I ripped off all my canvas, it collected too much dust and was too
> hard to keep clean.
>
> I now use a good unfinished particle board, which works great, is
> easy to clean with wet sponging, nothing sticks to it unless it's got
> wet, dries quickly and it leaves a very slight, irregular texture
> that I like or if I don't want, I can smooth off easilly.
>
> I bought a full sized sheet and had them cut it in 4 across the short
> width so I have 4 sheets. These I simply lay on the bench/table, and
> clamp the two end ones to lock them all in position.
>
> These are also the same size I use for ware boards so it's easy to
> fill one up with slabs or work and swap an empty one in.
>
> If I need to roll long coils that are longer than the sections are
> wide, I just put one down across the table.
>
> It works pretty well for me.
>
> BUT what I'd really like to try sometime is slate or cement. Both, I
> think would be nice surfaces to work on, no stick, easy to clean and
> the black slate would be beautiful.
>
> Russel
>
>
>
> Russel Fouts
> Mes Potes & Mes Pots
> Brussels, Belgium
> Tel: +32 2 223 02 75
> Mobile: +32 476 55 38 75
>
> http://www.mypots.com
> Home of "The Potters Portal"
> Over 3000 Pottery Related Links!
> Updated infrequently
>
>
> "Look, it's my misery that I have to paint this kind of painting,
> it's your misery that you have to love it, and the price of the
> misery is thirteen hundred and fifty dollars. "
>
> - Mark Rothko, In Art/Painting
>
--
Steve
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
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