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bagwalls for downdraft kilns

updated sun 10 jan 10

 

shane mickey on sat 9 jan 10


ingeborg,one of the ratio's i have always used is one third the chamber hei=
g=3D
ht. seems to be pretty good.I will also add a few observations. For your st=
y=3D
le of burner set up, i put a really tight stack right in front of the burne=
r=3D
s then loosen the wall toward the front of the kiln and the back. For burne=
r=3D
s in the back ofa kiln i have the bagwall tight in front, right up against =
t=3D
he door jamb wall, then progessivly looser as i go back and up. I have also=
=3D
made the front of the bagwall, again by the jamb, a bit higher than the res=
t=3D
in taller and longer kilns. I know its hard when the computers go out on y=
o=3D
u, but learning to fire with your senses is soooo important. good luck!shan=
e=3D
mickeykiln design services.http://www.shanemickeypotterslife.blogspot.com/


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Lee Love on sat 9 jan 10


On Sat, Jan 9, 2010 at 12:06 PM, shane mickey wrote=
=3D
:
> ingeborg,one of the ratio's i have always used is one third the chamber h=
=3D
eight. seems to be pretty good.I will also add a few observations. For your=
=3D
style of burner set up, i put a really tight stack right in front of the b=
=3D
urners then loosen the wall toward the front of the kiln and the back.

If the back bottom is cold, she might want to loosen the back and keep
the front a little tighter.


--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/

"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue

Ingeborg Foco on sat 9 jan 10


Hi Shane,

All of this good advice I am getting. I appreciate it. Just to clarify, I
don't have a computerized kiln. It is an old fashioned car bottom kiln wit=
h
natural draft burners. (TR-6 Eclipse compound barrel to be specific.)

For years I fired with an ordinary analog pyro and an oxi probe. The oxi
probe broke about a year ago (not the first time) and I decided this time t=
o
not have it repaired. I did buy a dual fluke meter and found it to be
superb in allowing me to analyze what is going on top/bottom and how the
damper affects things etc. The Fluke broke and my analog meter was also on
the fritz and voila, I am working with nothing but cones...just like the ol=
d
days.

Now to assimilate all of the great information to make it work for me.

Ingeborg

living in sw Florida where we are warned not to drive this evening as we ma=
y
have icy roads.



On Sat, Jan 9, 2010 at 1:06 PM, shane mickey wrote:

> ingeborg,one of the ratio's i have always used is one third the chamber
> height. seems to be pretty good.I will also add a few observations. For y=
our
> style of burner set up, i put a really tight stack right in front of the
> burners then loosen the wall toward the front of the kiln and the back. F=
or
> burners in the back ofa kiln i have the bagwall tight in front, right up
> against the door jamb wall, then progessivly looser as i go back and up. =
I
> have also made the front of the bagwall, again by the jamb, a bit higher
> than the rest in taller and longer kilns. I know its hard when the comput=
ers
> go out on you, but learning to fire with your senses is soooo important.
> good luck!shane mickeykiln design services.
> http://www.shanemickeypotterslife.blogspot.com/
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> Click here for easy weight loss help and diet information.
> Diet Help
>
> http://tagline.excite.com/c?cp=3DN7WdLluNZrwUPv3sgv9rEAAAKZQBVA8xn_DPiJKM=
g94jEn-7AAYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAADNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAYQETh-E4=3D
>



--
Sincerely,

Ingeborg

http://www.thepottersworkshop.com