Lee Love on tue 26 jan 10
Someone pointed us to this ceramic epoxy a while ago:
http://www.evsupply.com/
East Valley Epoxy is a versatile material. Because it handles just
like potter's clay and can be easily colored with our COLOR-KIT, it
can be used in many applications with diverse materials such as metal,
wood, brick, stone, pottery, concrete, plastic, and tile. It sets
rock-hard in one hour and can be sanded, drilled, or painted. It is
used by plumbers, artists, doll makers, miniature makers, hobbyists,
model railroad enthusiasts, and home-owners.
--
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
Ann Baker on tue 26 jan 10
Can someone tell me about post fire epoxy, what it is, where you get it, =
=3D
as well as other successful tips for healing cracks and reattaching =3D
pieces, especially reattaching post-fire pieces.
Ann Burdette Baker
www.annbclay.com
331 Old Tory Trail
Aiken, SC 29801
I am always doing things I can't do, that is how I get to do them.
--Pablo Picasso
William & Susan Schran User on tue 26 jan 10
On 1/26/10 3:30 PM, "Ann Baker" wrote:
> Can someone tell me about post fire epoxy, what it is, where you get it, =
as
> well as other successful tips for healing cracks and reattaching pieces,
> especially reattaching post-fire pieces.
I have used for many years a two-part epoxy putty, brand name PC-7.
I have also used same maker's PC-11.
PC-7 dries to a medium grey color, PC-11 dries to a white and is a marine
epoxy.
Both come in small cans, and are a rather thick paste like consistency.
I have recently tried two other epoxy putties, with good results, that com=
e
as a co-extruded stick or log. One cuts off a length, kneads the inner and
outer parts together then applies to areas to be cemented or filled. One
brand is Propoxy20 and the other Repairit Quik. Both can be sanded and
painted.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Steve Mills on wed 27 jan 10
Ann
Jim Robison, Ceramic Sculptor, often to be found on the North Star stand at
NCECA, always maintains that his "best friend" in that field is a good
two-part Epoxy for fixing, and an assortment of oxides to add to it for
filling purposes.
I haven't ever heard of a dedicated "post fire" epoxy. Any good two-part
type should do the trick.
Steve M
2010/1/26 Ann Baker
> Can someone tell me about post fire epoxy, what it is, where you get it, =
as
> well as other successful tips for healing cracks and reattaching pieces,
> especially reattaching post-fire pieces.
>
> Ann Burdette Baker
> www.annbclay.com
> 331 Old Tory Trail
> Aiken, SC 29801
>
> I am always doing things I can't do, that is how I get to do them.
> --Pablo Picasso
>
--
Steve
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Antoinette Badenhorst on wed 27 jan 10
Ann Baker asked:=3D20
Can someone tell me about post fire epoxy, what it is, where you get it, as=
=3D
well as other successful tips for healing cracks and reattaching pieces, e=
=3D
specially reattaching post-fire pieces=3D20
Ann I do not know the commersial crack fixers, but would suggest to you the=
=3D
following:=3D20
Grind some of your bisque clay to a powder and add the following to it:=3D2=
0
soft paperclay( mix it with your own clay .............fresh is best)=3D20
Gumpaste=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0to glue it ( I also add some sugar for hardines=
s when I=3D
have to handle it). Let the mixture=3DC2=3DA0=3DC2=3DA0sit for an hour or =
so to we=3D
t thoroughly throughout.=3D20
Open the crack as far as you could (remember clay has a memory) and wet the=
=3D
area thoroughly before you fill it up with your mixture. Let it spill over=
=3D
, you can clean up when it is dry or sand after bisque firing.=3D20
I can not tell you the right composition, but the key is to get it as close=
=3D
to your already shrunken clay as possible, so the balance should be as suc=
=3D
h that you basically use bisqued clay with a little bit of glue. Paper clay=
=3D
is also a good filler and known to connect two pieces of clay at any phaze=
=3D
and as such a good binder for the bisque.=3D20
Your sculptures are beautiful. I hope this might save it.=3D20
Antoinette Badenhorst=3D20
Lincolnshire, Illinois=3D20
.=3D20
Snail Scott on wed 27 jan 10
On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:30 PM, Ann Baker wrote:
> Can someone tell me about post fire epoxy, what it is, where you get
> it, as well as other successful tips for healing cracks and
> reattaching pieces, especially reattaching post-fire pieces...
It's just epoxy. You can get it at any hardware store.
As you get acquainted with it you may develop
distinct preferences for certain brands, but the basic
types can all be found almost anywhere. My local
Ace hardware has a better selection than the big-box
home centers, but that varies by location.
All epoxies are two-part mixtures, sold in sets. You
mix one part (the resin) with the other part (the
hardener) to create the chemical reaction that sets the
epoxy. This means that unlike air-dry adhesives, you
don't have to wait forever after gluing two non-porous
things together. The set time is fixed by the chemical
composition of the stuff, so it doesn't vary just because
the weather is damp or because air can't get to the
joint. Almost all epoxy adhesives are a 50/50 mix.
There are three basic types of epoxy adhesives:
gel, paste, and putty. All are available in a variety of
set times, so choose based on your intent. While
longer-setting types are usually stronger, even fast-
setting types are usually as strong as you will need,
Instead, consider working time. If you are assembling
several parts or need time to fit everything together,
choose a formula that gives you enough time to get
it all set right. If you are going to use a long-setting
type, plan in advance how to hold the project in
position 'til it cures unless gravity will do it for you.
Gel epoxies are most often sold in a double syringe,
to facilitate the squeezing out of equal amounts of
each component. They have the consistency of
honey, and most are clear but will yellow with age.
These epoxies are handy for repairs of broken things,
but do not fill gaps well and can drip out of a joint that
is too open and/ or vertical.
Paste epoxies are the consistency of peanut butter,
and generally come in small tubs or jars. You scoop
out equal part of each (I use popsicle sticks), then
use a third stick to mix them. (Don't use the same
stick to dip into both jars!) Grey is the most common
color, but some brands are beige. Unlike gels, these
can be applied to vertical joints without dripping,
and will fill even fairly large gaps. I use these for
nearly all my post-firing assembly of multi-part work.
Putty epoxies are usually sold in sticks like large
Tootsie rolls, and have the consistency of clay. The
two components are often nestled inside one another,
so you just cut or tear off a length, then knead it until
the two parts appear fully blended. Grey is the most
common color, but white, beige, and coppery brown
can be found. The lighter versions can be colored
using ceramic stains, oxides, or any dry pigment. It
can be formed and sculpted like a polymer clay until
it sets, then it can be sanded or filed. Keep your fingers
wet and it won't stick. Though it will stick to what it's
attached to, it is not as good an adhesive as the paste
epoxies. It is best for filling gaps between sections,
transitions between clay and non-clay components,
and constructing elements that for whatever reason
were better off not being made of clay.
All epoxies contain bisphenyl-A, the stuff that you were
warned about in water-bottle plastics, so don't lick your
fingers to keep them damp. Gloves are a good idea
when using gels and pastes, though I find them awkward
to use with the putty types. (Keep 'em damp!) There are
also some fumes involved, so ventilation is a good idea.
If you are going to paint the epoxy to match the adjacent
glaze or other finishes, be aware that most epoxies take
paint rather poorly, and it will not hold on as well as to
the clay itself. I deal with this by not allowing the epoxy to
come all the way to the final surface of the artwork. Keeping
the epoxy below the surface by at least 1/8" allows me to
fill the reminder with an auto-body filler like Bondo. These
are also a form of epoxy, but they are fillers, not adhesives,
and like adhesive epoxies, they are designed to take paint
very well indeed. (It reeks, though. Ventilation is a must!)
Bondo is NOT a 50/50 mix, so measure with care.
If the final surface is unglazed bare clay, I use mortar to fill
the gap. Mortar comes in handy pre-mixed colors, and can
also be colored with all the same oxides that clay bodies are.
It can even be mixed with matching grog to give a good
approximation of the clay texture. Like Bondo, it is best not
as an adhesive, but as filler. Both mortar and Bondo hold up
well outdoors, but paint (even over Bondo) has a much shorter
lifespan.
-Snail
Snail Scott on wed 27 jan 10
Oops, some typos! Try it this way instead...
On Jan 27, 2010, at 10:39 AM, Snail Scott wrote:
> ...Keeping
> the epoxy below the surface by at least 1/8" allows me to
> fill the REMAINDER with an auto-body filler like Bondo. These
> are also a form of epoxy, but they are fillers, not adhesives,
> and UNLIKE adhesive epoxies they are designed to take paint
> very well indeed...
My bad! -Snail
Mike on thu 28 jan 10
There are some interesting products at this website. I'm not associated
with them. If you need 2 part epoxies in clay/putty form, these products
seem like they'd be just the thing.
http://www.bhigr.com/store/home.php?cat=3D77
It seems that all of the things listed are used for fossil restoration,
and as such are suited to sculpting and sanding after application, and
they come in large volumes, the Magic Sculpt Epoxy Putty comes in a 20lb
size.
Prices seem reasonable too, though I haven't compared to the stuff at
the local home center.
Mike
Mike
in Taku, Japan
http://karatsupots.com
http://karatsupots.blogspot.com
Kiln Building Workshop, Oct. 15 - 22
http://karatsupots.com/workshop2010/workshop2010.html
http://karatsupots-workshop.blogspot.com/
Snail Scott ????????:
> On Jan 26, 2010, at 2:30 PM, Ann Baker wrote:
>> Can someone tell me about post fire epoxy, what it is, where you get
>> it, as well as other successful tips for healing cracks and
>> reattaching pieces, especially reattaching post-fire pieces...
>
>
> It's just epoxy. You can get it at any hardware store.
> As you get acquainted with it you may develop
> distinct preferences for certain brands, but the basic
> types can all be found almost anywhere. My local
> Ace hardware has a better selection than the big-box
> home centers, but that varies by location.
>
> All epoxies are two-part mixtures, sold in sets. You
> mix one part (the resin) with the other part (the
> hardener) to create the chemical reaction that sets the
> epoxy. This means that unlike air-dry adhesives, you
> don't have to wait forever after gluing two non-porous
> things together. The set time is fixed by the chemical
> composition of the stuff, so it doesn't vary just because
> the weather is damp or because air can't get to the
> joint. Almost all epoxy adhesives are a 50/50 mix.
>
> There are three basic types of epoxy adhesives:
> gel, paste, and putty. All are available in a variety of
> set times, so choose based on your intent. While
> longer-setting types are usually stronger, even fast-
> setting types are usually as strong as you will need,
> Instead, consider working time. If you are assembling
> several parts or need time to fit everything together,
> choose a formula that gives you enough time to get
> it all set right. If you are going to use a long-setting
> type, plan in advance how to hold the project in
> position 'til it cures unless gravity will do it for you.
>
> Gel epoxies are most often sold in a double syringe,
> to facilitate the squeezing out of equal amounts of
> each component. They have the consistency of
> honey, and most are clear but will yellow with age.
> These epoxies are handy for repairs of broken things,
> but do not fill gaps well and can drip out of a joint that
> is too open and/ or vertical.
>
> Paste epoxies are the consistency of peanut butter,
> and generally come in small tubs or jars. You scoop
> out equal part of each (I use popsicle sticks), then
> use a third stick to mix them. (Don't use the same
> stick to dip into both jars!) Grey is the most common
> color, but some brands are beige. Unlike gels, these
> can be applied to vertical joints without dripping,
> and will fill even fairly large gaps. I use these for
> nearly all my post-firing assembly of multi-part work.
>
> Putty epoxies are usually sold in sticks like large
> Tootsie rolls, and have the consistency of clay. The
> two components are often nestled inside one another,
> so you just cut or tear off a length, then knead it until
> the two parts appear fully blended. Grey is the most
> common color, but white, beige, and coppery brown
> can be found. The lighter versions can be colored
> using ceramic stains, oxides, or any dry pigment. It
> can be formed and sculpted like a polymer clay until
> it sets, then it can be sanded or filed. Keep your fingers
> wet and it won't stick. Though it will stick to what it's
> attached to, it is not as good an adhesive as the paste
> epoxies. It is best for filling gaps between sections,
> transitions between clay and non-clay components,
> and constructing elements that for whatever reason
> were better off not being made of clay.
>
> All epoxies contain bisphenyl-A, the stuff that you were
> warned about in water-bottle plastics, so don't lick your
> fingers to keep them damp. Gloves are a good idea
> when using gels and pastes, though I find them awkward
> to use with the putty types. (Keep 'em damp!) There are
> also some fumes involved, so ventilation is a good idea.
>
> If you are going to paint the epoxy to match the adjacent
> glaze or other finishes, be aware that most epoxies take
> paint rather poorly, and it will not hold on as well as to
> the clay itself. I deal with this by not allowing the epoxy to
> come all the way to the final surface of the artwork. Keeping
> the epoxy below the surface by at least 1/8" allows me to
> fill the reminder with an auto-body filler like Bondo. These
> are also a form of epoxy, but they are fillers, not adhesives,
> and like adhesive epoxies, they are designed to take paint
> very well indeed. (It reeks, though. Ventilation is a must!)
> Bondo is NOT a 50/50 mix, so measure with care.
>
> If the final surface is unglazed bare clay, I use mortar to fill
> the gap. Mortar comes in handy pre-mixed colors, and can
> also be colored with all the same oxides that clay bodies are.
> It can even be mixed with matching grog to give a good
> approximation of the clay texture. Like Bondo, it is best not
> as an adhesive, but as filler. Both mortar and Bondo hold up
> well outdoors, but paint (even over Bondo) has a much shorter
> lifespan.
>
> -Snail
>
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