Taylor Hendrix on mon 25 jan 10
Okay every peoples,
I unloaded my bisque (012) with the terra sig and everything looks
great. I made three batches of sig and tried some on a few pieces
each. Now I wish I had used the redart sig on more pieces. I love the
color.
Now to the questions.
One of my TS batches was made with the same clay body I used to throw
the pieces. It is a white earthenware. I'm sure it is a high talc body
but I'm not sure if it is a OM4/Talc -50/50 body. Does any of the talc
remain in the sig after settling and contribute to the gloss before
firing? I can't really tell any difference between the clay body sig
and the OM4 sig I made but the clay body sig did seem to shine up more
on the bone dry pieces. Both had a shine and kept their shine through
bisque.
Anyone make sig from redart? I noticed that neither the clay body sig
nor the OM4 sig settled out much once it was made, but the redard sig
sitll has a substantial soft pan at the bottom which is very sticky
and plastic. Does redart sig benefit from a second settling? Like I
said the redart sig made a beautiful color and shine. I wished I had
used it on more pots.
If I think of it I'll take some pictures of the pots.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
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Sent from Rockport, TX, United States
Lee Love on tue 26 jan 10
On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 8:31 PM, Taylor Hendrix wro=
=3D
te:
> and plastic. Does redart sig benefit from a second settling? Like I
> said the redart sig made a beautiful color and shine. I wished I had
> used it on more pots.
I use mostly redart. Check out this handout, Pinell's "Lip Smacking
Terra Sig" on page 4:
http://lindaarbuckle.com/handouts/majolica_handout2007.pdf
Pete talks about handling clays like Redart differently.
In a 5 gal. bucket put 28 lbs (28 pints or 3=3DBD gal.) of water. Add 14
lbs. dry clay. XX
sagger works well for white base, RedArt for red. Add enough sodium silicat=
=3D
e to
deflocculate (a few tablespoons). For red clays use 2 teaspoons sodium sili=
=3D
cate
and 1 tablespoon soda ash. Allow to settle. Overnight is average. Less
plastic red
clays (such as RedArt or fire clay may require only 6-8 hours, while
very plastic clays
like XX Sagger or OM4 ball may take up to 48 hours). Remove top =3DBD-b w/o
disturbing the mixture (syphon off). This is the sig. . Throw the rest
away; do not
reclaim.
Terra sig is best when the specific gravity if about 1.15. Useful
range is 1.1-1.2.
Specific gravity is measured by weighting out 100 gms of water, marking the
volume, and weighing the same volume of the sig. Divide the weight of the s=
=3D
ig by
100. If too thin evaporate. If too thick allow to settle longer. Apply
sig to bone dry
greenware and buff. Pete uses =3D93patinas=3D94 of 1 gerstley borate + 1
colorant as a thin
wash over bisqued sigs, applied and rubbed off. Works on textured areas.
--=3D20
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
Neon-Cat on fri 29 jan 10
Taylor -- talc in water will make a colloidal dispersion and does so
best in cold or cool water so if you're in a hurry and want to heat or
boil your sig you may lose some of the talc (it will settle out). Talc
dispersion also depends on any ingredients the talc may also contain.
Some materials, like CMC, will sink the little talc particles --
something nice to know when talc is included in glazes, for example.
Some things I low-fired had a nice subtle shine from a dusting of fine
talc lightly burnished on the surface of the vessels.
I'd love to see photos of your terra sigged pots when you have time.
Marian
Neon-Cat
On Mon, Jan 25, 2010 at 8:31 PM, Taylor Hendrix wro=
te:
"One of my TS batches was made with the same clay body I used to throw
the pieces. It is a white earthenware. I'm sure it is a high talc body
but I'm not sure if it is a OM4/Talc -50/50 body. Does any of the talc
remain in the sig after settling and contribute to the gloss before
firing? I can't really tell any difference between the clay body sig
and the OM4 sig I made but the clay body sig did seem to shine up more
on the bone dry pieces. Both had a shine and kept their shine through
bisque."
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