Bob Johnson on thu 28 jan 10
I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I know
that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my pot-friends
have suggested:
1. dry them on sheetrock
2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I tried
this, they buckled)
Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
Thanks!
Bob
Roseburg, Oregon
Loren JOnes on fri 29 jan 10
Funny you should ask. I was drying one over the last few days. I thought al=
l was well. I went to check on it this morning and low and behold, an S cra=
ck! I did all the things you mentioned. The one thing I will say about my e=
xperience is that the center of the platter was too thick. This was a large=
platter -22 inchs The rim was 1/4 inch the center 1/2 or better. When will=
I learn! Make sure the center is not too much thicker than the rim and it =
should dry more evenly. best of luck, Loren
________________________________
From: Steve Mills
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Sent: Fri, January 29, 2010 10:27:03 AM
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
I dry stuff like that on Calcium Silicate Board, this is a fire retardant
board used in the building trade which does not include plaster in its
structure (I'm paranoid about plaster in my studio), either upside down or
right way up, but I suspect that my clay is a lot more forgiving than yours
so I'd only use it right way up.
Steve M
On 29 January 2010 03:02, Bob Johnson wrote:
> I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I kn=
ow
> that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my pot-friend=
s
> have suggested:
>
> 1. dry them on sheetrock
> 2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
> 3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I tried
> this, they buckled)
>
> Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob
> Roseburg, Oregon
>
--
Steve
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Marcia Selsor on fri 29 jan 10
> Use a rib when throwing and recompress the center of the plates =3D
/platters.=3D20
> Flipping them as they dry also helps. If the rim dries first the =3D
center will pull=3D20
> as it dries..try putting a sponge in the center so it doesn't buckle.
> Marcia
>=3D20
On Jan 28, 2010, at 9:02 PM, Bob Johnson wrote:
> I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I =
=3D
know
> that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my =3D
pot-friends
> have suggested:
>=3D20
> 1. dry them on sheetrock
> 2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
> 3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I =3D
tried
> this, they buckled)
>=3D20
> Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
>=3D20
> Thanks!
>=3D20
> Bob
> Roseburg, Oregon
>=3D20
Marcia Selsor
http://www.marciaselsor.com
Randall Moody on fri 29 jan 10
On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 10:02 PM, Bob Johnson wrote:
> I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I kn=
ow
> that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my pot-friend=
s
> have suggested:
>
> 1. dry them on sheetrock
> 2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
> 3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I tried
> this, they buckled)
>
> Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob
> Roseburg, Oregon
>
I usually dry them on two sheets of news print. What clay are you using? I
found that B-Mix or porcelain are more prone to s-cracks if I don't compres=
s
the bottom during throwing and following trimming.
--
Randall in Atlanta
Ron Roy on fri 29 jan 10
Hi Bob,
Sometimes it's the clay - have you tested it for shrinkage?
The trick is to dry evenly - what ever you have to do - turning them
over is a good way.
If the sides dry before the middle - when the middle tries to shrink
the sides won't let it.
Hamer has about 10 pages on cracks - you find yours and they explain why.
RR
Quoting Bob Johnson :
> I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I kn=
ow
> that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my pot-friend=
s
> have suggested:
>
> 1. dry them on sheetrock
> 2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
> 3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I tried
> this, they buckled)
>
> Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob
> Roseburg, Oregon
>
Lee Love on fri 29 jan 10
Bob,
So much depends upon your clay. In Mashiko, in my teacher's
studio, the large platters were dried with the foot down, after
trimming with no cracking. But Mashiko clay has a lot of sand in it.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
William & Susan Schran User on fri 29 jan 10
On 1/28/10 10:02 PM, "Bob Johnson" wrote:
> I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I kn=
ow
> that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my pot-friend=
s
> have suggested:
>
> 1. dry them on sheetrock
> 2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
> 3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I tried
> this, they buckled)
>
> Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
I do not claim to be an expert, but here is what I do and I don't recall an
instance where I have had an S crack in a plate or platter following these
guidelines:
1. Type of clay is the first thing to consider. Some clays, made for wheel
work, with little grog, or are composed of all small particle clays are mor=
e
prone to S crack issues and this is especially true for forms with wide
bottoms.
2. Compress, compress, compress - and then compress some more across the
bottom of the form. Avoid using too much water, then compress again.
3. If you use a nonabsorbent bat, cut under the clay immediately when the
plate is made, then cut under again after the plate has stiffened up a bit.
This depends on studio, weather, how fast the clay dries. If you throw on
plaster, then cutting is not an issue and the plate will dry more equally.
4. This is critical - you must find a way to keep the rim/outside of the
plate from dry faster than the interior of the plate, especially wider
forms. If the outside dries much faster, then it is shrinking in and
compressing/stressing the still wet inside area, which can lead to
cracking/warping.
5. As soon as the plate is stiff enough to lift, transfer from nonabsorbent
bat to non-sealed wood (I use 3/4" plywood boards) with a piece of newspape=
r
between plate and wood and cover with dry cleaning plastic. The plate
remains like this for a day, a couple days, a week - all depends on the
studio climate - but slow drying is the key.
6. When the plate has stiffened a bit more, to the point where the inside
won't sink down, I flip the plate upside down, cover the edges with plastic
and allow bottom to stiffen until ready for trimming. When you flip, be
sure to sandwich the plate between two pieces of wood, don't flip plate by
itself. I use piece of foam under middle when trimming platters.
7. After trimming, back on wood, upside down with new piece of newspaper
between clay & wood, cover with plastic, allow to dry at least a week this
way.
So, type of clay, compress, slow dry, avoid drying edge faster than inside,
slow dry.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Steve Mills on fri 29 jan 10
I dry stuff like that on Calcium Silicate Board, this is a fire retardant
board used in the building trade which does not include plaster in its
structure (I'm paranoid about plaster in my studio), either upside down or
right way up, but I suspect that my clay is a lot more forgiving than yours
so I'd only use it right way up.
Steve M
On 29 January 2010 03:02, Bob Johnson wrote:
> I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I kn=
ow
> that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my pot-friend=
s
> have suggested:
>
> 1. dry them on sheetrock
> 2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
> 3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I tried
> this, they buckled)
>
> Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob
> Roseburg, Oregon
>
--
Steve
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Dale Neese on fri 29 jan 10
Before throwing stoneware plates or platters, wedge into the throwing clay
some really finely sieved grog or sand.
Flip the plates and platters with another batt or board of the same size.
Avoid handling them as much as possible. I never dry ANY clay piece on it's
rim.
Yes, dry them on newspapers or sheetrock. I've also used bread racks so air
gets underneath. An old bed sheet cover helps dry them slowly, evens out th=
e
drying, nixes drafts.
Bisque fire large plates and larger platters on their rims. Prop them up
anyway you can. I place a small pad of Kaowool underneath the rims. I've
lost too many large flat clay pieces by bisque firing them flat on uneven
shelves. Sometimes even a bed of small grog under them doesn't help. Usuall=
y
I don't have losses in the bisque fire with smaller 11-12 inch plates. I ca=
n
stack three at a time spoon like with Kaowool props under the rims.
Dale Tex
"across the alley from the Alamo"
Helotes, Texas USA
www.daleneese.com
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signatur=
e database 4818 (20100129) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
http://www.eset.com
KATHI LESUEUR on fri 29 jan 10
I dry all of my platters, thrown or slab, on blue styrofoam sheets.
Thrown platters are dried on their rims. Slab platters are dried
right side up. for slab platters I cover them lightly with plastic
until they are almost dry.
KATHI LESUEUR
http://www.lesueurclaywork.com
Bob Johnson on fri 29 jan 10
Thanks, everyone. You've given me some very good ideas to try. I haven't ha=
d
too many problems yet, but I am planning to make some larger pieces--with a
white/buff stoneware clay, which throws well but has high shrinkage and
plasticity--so I know I need to be careful.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Ron Roy
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:21 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
Hi Bob,
Sometimes it's the clay - have you tested it for shrinkage?
The trick is to dry evenly - what ever you have to do - turning them
over is a good way.
If the sides dry before the middle - when the middle tries to shrink
the sides won't let it.
Hamer has about 10 pages on cracks - you find yours and they explain why.
RR
Quoting Bob Johnson :
> I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I
know
> that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my pot-friend=
s
> have suggested:
>
> 1. dry them on sheetrock
> 2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
> 3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I tried
> this, they buckled)
>
> Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bob
> Roseburg, Oregon
>
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.432 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2655 - Release Date: 01/29/10
09:08:00
Rikki Gill on sat 30 jan 10
Hi Loren,
I make a lot of plates. No problems. You need to use your rib HARD. The
problem can be an air bubble that isn't pressed out with a rib. The rib
will show you where the bubble is, and a pin tool will let the air out.
I use Pellon to roll clay out on my slab roller. I also use it to cover
plates and other things I want to dry slowly. It is a wonderful material,
used carefully it will last for a while. Just don't use it when it is too
wet. You can usually buy it on sale from JoAnne Fabrics. They have an
internet presence.
Best,
Rikki Gill
rikigil@sbcglobal.net
www.rikkigillceramics.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Loren JOnes"
To:
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
> Funny you should ask. I was drying one over the last few days. I thought
> all was well. I went to check on it this morning and low and behold, an S
> crack! I did all the things you mentioned. The one thing I will say about
> my experience is that the center of the platter was too thick. This was a
> large platter -22 inchs The rim was 1/4 inch the center 1/2 or better.
> When will I learn! Make sure the center is not too much thicker than the
> rim and it should dry more evenly. best of luck, Loren
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Steve Mills
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Sent: Fri, January 29, 2010 10:27:03 AM
> Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
>
> I dry stuff like that on Calcium Silicate Board, this is a fire retardant
> board used in the building trade which does not include plaster in its
> structure (I'm paranoid about plaster in my studio), either upside down o=
r
> right way up, but I suspect that my clay is a lot more forgiving than
> yours
> so I'd only use it right way up.
>
> Steve M
>
> On 29 January 2010 03:02, Bob Johnson wrote:
>
>> I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I
>> know
>> that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my
>> pot-friends
>> have suggested:
>>
>> 1. dry them on sheetrock
>> 2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
>> 3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I trie=
d
>> this, they buckled)
>>
>> Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Bob
>> Roseburg, Oregon
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Steve
> Bath
> UK
> www.mudslinger.me.uk
Bonnie Staffel on sun 31 jan 10
I believe I have mentioned this before, but I wax the rims of my plates =3D
and
platters to allow them to keep damp until the centers catch up in the
drying. Placing the plates on an absorbent medium is also helpful, but =3D
the
rims do need to be covered. Even plastic and be placed around the rim =3D
for
this purpose, but the water wax is an excellent material to use in my
experience.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD=3DA0 Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD=3DA0 Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
Ron Roy on mon 1 feb 10
Someone sent me an email explaining that they used shower caps (from =3D20
hotels) to slow down rims - put the cap on and when the platter is dry =3D2=
0
enough turn it over - leaving the cap on - I think that is how they =3D20
used it?
Can't remember the name - sorry.
RR
Quoting Bonnie Staffel :
> I believe I have mentioned this before, but I wax the rims of my plates a=
n=3D
d
> platters to allow them to keep damp until the centers catch up in the
> drying. Placing the plates on an absorbent medium is also helpful, but th=
e
> rims do need to be covered. Even plastic and be placed around the rim for
> this purpose, but the water wax is an excellent material to use in my
> experience.
>
> Bonnie Staffel
>
> http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
> http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
> DVD=3DA0 Throwing with Coils and Slabs
> DVD=3DA0 Introduction to Wheel Work
> Charter Member Potters Council
>
rfsanterre on tue 2 feb 10
Bill Schran seems to have touched all the bases. THE PRIMARY ISSUE is
differential drying. If the rim dries before the center of the
plate/platter dries then the drying (and shrinking) center has no place =3D
to
go and it will crack as it shrinks, period. At the leather hard stage I
place my plates and platters right side up on plastic racks that have an
open honeycomb-type construction such that air can get to the bottom of =3D
the
plate/platter. I cover the rims with plastic and leave the center =3D
uncovered
so now the center is drying from both the top and bottom and the drying =3D
of
the rim is slowed to give the center time to catch-up. Works for me.
Bob
///////////////////////////////////////////////// =3D20
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of William & =3D
Susan
Schran User
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 11:58 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
On 1/28/10 10:02 PM, "Bob Johnson" wrote:
> I need some advise on drying plates and platters, to avoid S-cracks. I
know
> that they should be dried slowly. Beyond that, here is what my =3D
pot-friends
> have suggested:
>
> 1. dry them on sheetrock
> 2. cover them with fabric, to slow down and even the drying process
> 3. turn them upside down, as soon as possible (but, the last time I =3D
tried
> this, they buckled)
>
> Can any of you experts confirm these or suggest other methods?
I do not claim to be an expert, but here is what I do and I don't recall =
=3D
an
instance where I have had an S crack in a plate or platter following =3D
these
guidelines:
1. Type of clay is the first thing to consider. Some clays, made for =3D
wheel
work, with little grog, or are composed of all small particle clays are =3D
more
prone to S crack issues and this is especially true for forms with wide
bottoms.
2. Compress, compress, compress - and then compress some more across the
bottom of the form. Avoid using too much water, then compress again.
3. If you use a nonabsorbent bat, cut under the clay immediately when =3D
the
plate is made, then cut under again after the plate has stiffened up a =3D
bit.
This depends on studio, weather, how fast the clay dries. If you throw =3D
on
plaster, then cutting is not an issue and the plate will dry more =3D
equally.
4. This is critical - you must find a way to keep the rim/outside of the
plate from dry faster than the interior of the plate, especially wider
forms. If the outside dries much faster, then it is shrinking in and
compressing/stressing the still wet inside area, which can lead to
cracking/warping.
5. As soon as the plate is stiff enough to lift, transfer from =3D
nonabsorbent
bat to non-sealed wood (I use 3/4" plywood boards) with a piece of =3D
newspaper
between plate and wood and cover with dry cleaning plastic. The plate
remains like this for a day, a couple days, a week - all depends on the
studio climate - but slow drying is the key.
6. When the plate has stiffened a bit more, to the point where the =3D
inside
won't sink down, I flip the plate upside down, cover the edges with =3D
plastic
and allow bottom to stiffen until ready for trimming. When you flip, be
sure to sandwich the plate between two pieces of wood, don't flip plate =3D
by
itself. I use piece of foam under middle when trimming platters.
7. After trimming, back on wood, upside down with new piece of newspaper
between clay & wood, cover with plastic, allow to dry at least a week =3D
this
way.
So, type of clay, compress, slow dry, avoid drying edge faster than =3D
inside,
slow dry.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
William & Susan Schran User on tue 2 feb 10
On 2/1/10 1:59 PM, "Ron Roy" wrote:
> Someone sent me an email explaining that they used shower caps (from
> hotels) to slow down rims - put the cap on and when the platter is dry
> enough turn it over - leaving the cap on - I think that is how they
> used it?
>
> Can't remember the name - sorry.
Ok then, everyone at NCECA bring your hotel shower caps to the Clayart room
for collection by those who make plates.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Dana & Chris Trabka on wed 3 feb 10
Bob,
I throw my plates and platters on a plaster bat. After the bottom edges
"lift" off the bat, I gently remove them from the bat and place them
"bottoms up" on a ware board (12" x 12" for bowls and plates, 16" x 16" for
small platters, 24" x 24" for large platters. After trimming the bottom, I
let them dry with "bottoms up" - no need for "special handling".
An additional note: when throwing I spend as much time compressing the
bottom as I do centering. Clay likes pushing, hates pulling. Opening is
basically pulling the clay away from the center. Compressing the bottom is
pushing the clay back toward the center. Throwing on a plaster bat allows
the bottom to dry more quickly than throwing on a non-absorbent material
(plastic or wood).
Chris
Paul Borian on sun 7 feb 10
just to mention, i made 16 large platters since this thread started, using
9 lbs of clay; the first 10 i left out to dry naturally - i burnished the
base and trimmed the edge as always, but other than that i did nothing to
them. The last 6 were put under thin plastic once the rims started drying,
but i only did that because i did not have time to finish them for several
days so i just covered them and forgot about them for awhile.
All 16 came out fine with no cracks - obviously this depends on the clay
body - but it seems like everyone should at least try this once to see if
their clay really requires so much care for platters. I wasted a lot of
time on this for years before finally just letting them sit out to dry.
paul
On Feb 3, 2010 11:43pm, Dana & Chris Trabka wrote:
> Bob,
> I throw my plates and platters on a plaster bat. After the bottom edges
> "lift" off the bat, I gently remove them from the bat and place them
> "bottoms up" on a ware board (12" x 12" for bowls and plates, 16" x 16"
> for
> small platters, 24" x 24" for large platters. After trimming the bottom, =
I
> let them dry with "bottoms up" - no need for "special handling".
> An additional note: when throwing I spend as much time compressing the
> bottom as I do centering. Clay likes pushing, hates pulling. Opening is
> basically pulling the clay away from the center. Compressing the bottom i=
s
> pushing the clay back toward the center. Throwing on a plaster bat allows
> the bottom to dry more quickly than throwing on a non-absorbent material
> (plastic or wood).
> Chris
Lou Raye Nichol on mon 8 feb 10
I saw one response about throwing them on plaster bats - I question if that
would work for porcelain. Would it?
Lou Raye
Lou Raye Nichol
Carbon Trapped Porcelain
919-303-5848
www.louraye.com
pots@louraye.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Susan Fox
Hirschmann
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 10:48 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
Never would work for me, with porcelain! Sssslllllooooowwwwwww....even
drying is key.
Susan
annandale, VA
Who can't shovel the snow any higher than 7 feet and also snowed in!
--- On Sun, 2/7/10, Paul Borian wrote:
From: Paul Borian
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Sunday, February 7, 2010, 12:30 PM
just to mention, i made 16 large platters since this thread started, using
9 lbs of clay; the first 10 i left out to dry naturally - i burnished the
base and trimmed the edge as always, but other than that i did nothing to
them. The last 6 were put under thin plastic once the rims started drying,
but i only did that because i did not have time to finish them for several
days so i just covered them and forgot about them for awhile.
All 16 came out fine with no cracks - obviously this depends on the clay
body - but it seems like everyone should at least try this once to see if
their clay really requires so much care for platters. I wasted a lot of tim=
e
on this for years before finally just letting them sit out to dry.
paul
On Feb 3, 2010 11:43pm, Dana & Chris Trabka wrote:
> Bob,
> I throw my plates and platters on a plaster bat. After the bottom
> edges
> "lift" off the bat, I gently remove them from the bat and place them
> "bottoms up" on a ware board (12" x 12" for bowls and plates, 16" x 16"
> for
> small platters, 24" x 24" for large platters. After trimming the
> bottom, I
> let them dry with "bottoms up" - no need for "special handling".
> An additional note: when throwing I spend as much time compressing the
> bottom as I do centering. Clay likes pushing, hates pulling. Opening
> is
> basically pulling the clay away from the center. Compressing the
> bottom is
> pushing the clay back toward the center. Throwing on a plaster bat
> allows
> the bottom to dry more quickly than throwing on a non-absorbent
> material
> (plastic or wood).
> Chris
Susan Fox Hirschmann on mon 8 feb 10
Never would work for me, with porcelain! Sssslllllooooowwwwwww....even dryi=
ng is key.
Susan
annandale, VA
Who can't shovel the snow any higher than 7 feet and also snowed in!
--- On Sun, 2/7/10, Paul Borian wrote:
From: Paul Borian
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Sunday, February 7, 2010, 12:30 PM
just to mention, i made 16 large platters since this thread started, using
9 lbs of clay; the first 10 i left out to dry naturally - i burnished the
base and trimmed the edge as always, but other than that i did nothing to
them. The last 6 were put under thin plastic once the rims started drying,
but i only did that because i did not have time to finish them for several
days so i just covered them and forgot about them for awhile.
All 16 came out fine with no cracks - obviously this depends on the clay
body - but it seems like everyone should at least try this once to see if
their clay really requires so much care for platters. I wasted a lot of
time on this for years before finally just letting them sit out to dry.
paul
On Feb 3, 2010 11:43pm, Dana & Chris Trabka wrote:
> Bob,
> I throw my plates and platters on a plaster bat. After the bottom edges
> "lift" off the bat, I gently remove them from the bat and place them
> "bottoms up" on a ware board (12" x 12" for bowls and plates, 16" x 16"
> for
> small platters, 24" x 24" for large platters. After trimming the bottom, =
I
> let them dry with "bottoms up" - no need for "special handling".
> An additional note: when throwing I spend as much time compressing the
> bottom as I do centering. Clay likes pushing, hates pulling. Opening is
> basically pulling the clay away from the center. Compressing the bottom i=
s
> pushing the clay back toward the center. Throwing on a plaster bat allows
> the bottom to dry more quickly than throwing on a non-absorbent material
> (plastic or wood).
> Chris
Victoria E. Hamilton on tue 9 feb 10
Hello Lou Raye -
I throw my porcelain plates and platters on plaster bats. This way,
moisture leaves the pieces from the top and the bottom as the drying proces=
s
begins. Also, cutting them off the bat is not required since the pieces
loosen themselves from the plaster so you are dealing with a flat bottom
surface when you begin trimming rather than the sometimes uneven surface
left by the cutoff wire (thinner in the center & thicker toward the edges).
Also, it seems to me that porcelain likes to be trimmed dryer/stiffer than
stoneware.
And, plates and platters will dry from the rim first, so if you apply some
wax resist to the rims of freshly thrown plates and platters, it slows down
the drying of the rims thereby relieving some of the stress on the centers
during the drying process.
After trimming, try drying the pieces right side up on a piece of wallboard
(very lightly covered in painter's plastic) to continue the process of
moisture leaving from top and bottom.
Vicki Hamilton
Seattle, WA
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Lou Raye Nicho=
l
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 7:40 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
I saw one response about throwing them on plaster bats - I question if that
would work for porcelain. Would it?
Lou Raye
Lou Raye Nichol
Carbon Trapped Porcelain
919-303-5848
www.louraye.com
pots@louraye.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Susan Fox
Hirschmann
Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 10:48 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
Never would work for me, with porcelain! Sssslllllooooowwwwwww....even
drying is key.
Susan
annandale, VA
Who can't shovel the snow any higher than 7 feet and also snowed in!
--- On Sun, 2/7/10, Paul Borian wrote:
From: Paul Borian
Subject: Re: drying plates and platters
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Date: Sunday, February 7, 2010, 12:30 PM
just to mention, i made 16 large platters since this thread started, using
9 lbs of clay; the first 10 i left out to dry naturally - i burnished the
base and trimmed the edge as always, but other than that i did nothing to
them. The last 6 were put under thin plastic once the rims started drying,
but i only did that because i did not have time to finish them for several
days so i just covered them and forgot about them for awhile.
All 16 came out fine with no cracks - obviously this depends on the clay
body - but it seems like everyone should at least try this once to see if
their clay really requires so much care for platters. I wasted a lot of tim=
e
on this for years before finally just letting them sit out to dry.
paul
On Feb 3, 2010 11:43pm, Dana & Chris Trabka wrote:
> Bob,
> I throw my plates and platters on a plaster bat. After the bottom
> edges
> "lift" off the bat, I gently remove them from the bat and place them
> "bottoms up" on a ware board (12" x 12" for bowls and plates, 16" x 16"
> for
> small platters, 24" x 24" for large platters. After trimming the
> bottom, I
> let them dry with "bottoms up" - no need for "special handling".
> An additional note: when throwing I spend as much time compressing the
> bottom as I do centering. Clay likes pushing, hates pulling. Opening
> is
> basically pulling the clay away from the center. Compressing the
> bottom is
> pushing the clay back toward the center. Throwing on a plaster bat
> allows
> the bottom to dry more quickly than throwing on a non-absorbent
> material
> (plastic or wood).
> Chris
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