Paul Herman on fri 26 feb 10
Hay Gary,
Congratulations on the inaugural firing. Don't worry too much about =3D20
the results for the time being, it's a learning process that takes a =3D20
while. Also I think after the kiln gets fired a few times, it gets =3D20
easier to heat the structure, some kind of memory in the bricks if you =3D2=
0=3D
will. We never got a good hot firing in our wood kiln until #4. And =3D20
it's been mostly great since then sort of, if you know what I mean. =3D20
Now there are about 15 days left to make pots for #21, I'm committed =3D20
again.
Rain pouring down here in Long Valley tonight,
Paul Herman
Great Basin Pottery
Doyle, California US
www.greatbasinpottery.com/
On Feb 26, 2010, at 5:07 PM, gary navarre wrote:
> Hay Crew,
>
> Well I survived! The Hobagama get fired from Thursday the 18th. to =3D20
> Thursday the 25th. at 1:45PM. falling asleep with the damper closed =3D20=
=3D
> only once. My knees don't hurt like when I was crawling around on =3D20
> the ground at the kiln Drew Krouse made on the Maltbee Farm near =3D20
> Kalamazoo in the mid '70's. That's the first time I hit ^10 with =3D20
> wood. I didn't start hallucinating like the first time I fired the =3D20
> Hobagama '87. As with all new kilns though this firing might not be =3D20=
=3D
> vary successful with some pots cracking from heat shock from too =3D20
> fast a climb and eventually melting out of shape and the rest being =3D20=
=3D
> under fired. The front of the chamber right at the throat arch got =3D20
> blasted and melted ^11 to a puddle and the cracked Wendt Porcelain =3D20
> Dragon Pots melting out of shape from what what I could see through =3D20=
=3D
> the Pignose...
>
> =3D
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/wfuph210/working-the-pignose-29.ht=
=3D
ml
>
> Through the door spy hole I saw ^01 was down but ^8 was still =3D20
> standing...
>
> =3D
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/wfuph210/working-with-pignose-6.ht=
=3D
ml
>
> Deeper in the door stoke hole near the bottom middle...
>
> http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/wfuph210/side-stoking-=3D20
> hole.html
>
> =3D
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/wfuph210/working-with-pignose-4.ht=
=3D
ml
>
> ... might have some results but I'm not vary hopeful the tail half =3D20
> made temperature. The draw rings I pulled show some vitrification =3D20
> and resemble over fired bisque...
>
> =3D
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/wfuph210/working-with-pignose-5.ht=
=3D
ml
>
> I would have done a percent of absorption test but inadvertently =3D20
> dunked them in the snow to cool them off quickly and now they got =3D20
> damp. I'm gonna see if I can nuke or bake off the moisture and then =3D20=
=3D
> do the test.
>
> I didn't bother with written notes until Saturday about 7:30PM when =3D20=
=3D
> my pyrometers were reading about 285=3DB0 in the Bourry box, 245=3DB0 in =
=3D
the =3D20
> front crown, 300 in the tail, and maybe 200=3DB0 in the stack. I used =3D=
20=3D
> BBQ meat thermometers in the Bourry box and stack for a while until =3D20=
=3D
> they read about 400=3DB0. At one point I got the front to 1800=3DB0 and =
=3D20=3D
> managed to get the front and back within 50=3DB0 at about 1600=3DB0 befor=
e =3D
=3D20
> closed the damper and I took the long nap. When I woke up both =3D20
> pyrometers were even at 1250=3DB0 so I decided to try relighting like =3D=
20=3D
> Lee Love mentioned some old coot in Japan does ant fired back up to =3D20=
=3D
> where I got the front to 1499=3DB0 and the tail to 1500=3DB0. All I was =
=3D20=3D
> trying to do at this point was get the tail hotter that the front =3D20
> with secondary stoking in the door and the small hole near the tail. =3D2=
0=3D
> I knew I wasn't going to get glaze melt but I found part of my old =3D20
> stoking pattern that worked.
>
> It's a good thing I made the Pignose adjustable separate from the =3D20
> main chamber because I need to make the mousehole to the Bourry box =3D20=
=3D
> twice as high, at least 2.5", so I can get more air to the hobs coal =3D2=
0=3D
> pile. I still had a clogging problem. It worked better when I reamed =3D2=
0=3D
> it with a long stick but it was a tight fit.
>
> Along the way I increased the stack height 2' with some soaps I had =3D20=
=3D
> left over and covered more of the outer sides with red brick but it =3D20=
=3D
> got too dangerous climbing on the mud buckets while firing so I left =3D2=
0=3D
> it until I can lag in some more brick using a taller ladder.
>
> That's about it, the bunches of video I took will need editing and I =3D2=
0=3D
> can take out frames for pictures, I didn't shoot a lot of stills =3D20
> this time.
>
> Thanks for all the encouragement over these construction and loading =3D2=
0=3D
> years and stay in there eh!
>
> Gary Navarre
> Navarre Pottery
> Navarre Enterprises
> Norway, Michigan, USA
> http://www.youtube.com/GindaUP
> http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/
>
>
>
>
>
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