Lee Love on sun 7 mar 10
n?
Beth, what kind of woodkiln would you like to build?
http://www.amazon.com/Wood-Fired-Stoneware-Porcelain-Jack-Troy/dp/080198484=
=3D
X
http://ian.currie.to/sh/Steve_Harrisons_books.html
http://www.amazon.com/Wood-fired-Ceramics-Contemporary-Coll-Minogue/dp/0812=
=3D
235142/ref=3D3Dsr_1_2?ie=3D3DUTF8&s=3D3Dbooks&qid=3D3D1267977053&sr=3D3D1-2
http://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Wood-Fired-Ceramics-Marc-Lancet/dp/087349742=
=3D
2/ref=3D3Dpd_sim_b_5
Plans for my kiln in Mashiko, a good first wood kiln:
http://public.fotki.com/togeika/my_kiln/
Steve Mills offers a CD of his exceptionally easy to build and fire
small woodkiln:
http://www.mudslinger-mills.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CD.htm
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
gary navarre on sun 7 mar 10
n?
Well Beth,=3D0A=3D0A I haven't used Osage Orange as fuel yet but I did this=
a w=3D
hile back ...=3D0A=3D0Ahttp://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/navarres_hob=
alec=3D
tric/=3D0A=3D0A... so you could kill two birds. If ya want anything more co=
mple=3D
te you're gonna have to pay me so get what's free while ya can and stay in =
=3D
there eh!=3D0A=3D0AGary Navarre=3D0ANavarre Pottery=3D0ANavarre Enterprises=
=3D0ANorwa=3D
y, Michigan, USA=3D0Ahttp://www.youtube.com/GindaUP=3D0Ahttp://public.fotki=
.com=3D
/GindaUP/=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A--- On Sun, 3/7/10, Beth Donovan OM> wr=3D
ote:=3D0A=3D0A> From: Beth Donovan =3D0A> Subject: [Cl=
ayart]=3D
Suggestions for good reference on how to build a wood-fire kiln?=3D0A> To:=
C=3D
layart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0A> Date: Sunday, March 7, 2010, 8:07 AM=3D0A> I =
got =3D
to thinking, here I am with our=3D0A> 80 acres, goats, horses, chickens,=3D=
0A> =3D
ducks, guineas, peafowl, bunnies, etc., and a zillion osage=3D0A> orange tr=
ee=3D
s I'm=3D0A> trying to cut down before they take over all of flyover=3D0A> c=
ount=3D
ry, that maybe=3D0A> I should build a kiln.=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0(Good Lord, that=
=3D0A> was =3D
a ridiculously long sentence!)=3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> Osage Orange is =
a very h=3D
ot-burning wood, and rather than=3D0A> just building a=3D0A> big bonfire ev=
ery =3D
month or so to burn the darn things,=3D0A> perhaps I would be=3D0A> better =
off =3D
burning them for a good reason - a kiln!=3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> Of cour=
se, sinc=3D
e all I have is an electric kiln, I have no=3D0A> idea what is=3D0A> involv=
ed.=3D
=3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> Can any of you recommend a book with fairly sim=
ple and=3D
=3D0A> complete instructions=3D0A> on how to build a wood-fired kiln?=3DA0 =
I need=3D
something=3D0A> that is very complete.=3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> =
=3D0A> Thanks v=3D
ery much in advance,=3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> =3D0A> Beth Donovan=3D0A> =3D0A> C=
astle Argghh=3D
h!! Farm=3D0A> =3D0A> Easton, Kansas=3D0A> =3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
Eric Hansen on sun 7 mar 10
n?
Beth: I'm very familiar on burning osage orange. You have a very hot but
very short flame. Whatever you do you won't want to build the long anagama
type kiln unless it is of a Tamba or Dragon type kiln with side stoke holes
every few feet.
Joe Zeller built a kiln at KU which has been dismantled now - sort of a
square or rectangular footprint - catenary arch about 6 foot high - fire bo=
x
inside the chamber - no bag wall - firebox oversized, almost 1/3 of the
chamber with checker built into the wall to give lots of adjustable air. Th=
e
exit flue begins in the floor then goes into a mixing chamber before up the
stack. It would fire to cone 10 in less than 24 hours and was wonderful wit=
h
glazed work.
Another design that comes to mind is the "Smokeless KIln" of which there ar=
e
plans originating in Japan and Australia or New Zealand.
A third design that comes to mind is the "ground hog" kiln which uses earth
for floors as well as side wall support. Traditionally this is either a con=
e
6 salt kiln or a cone 10 studio potter kiln
The temptation that most potters fall into is building a large kiln that
ideally needs 7-10 days of firing, but then very few firings happen like
that - mostly the kilns sit idle. One design parameter is how much brush yo=
u
have to burn and it what form it comes - and incorporate that into the fire
box design. I'm kind of sick of backdraft coming out of the firebox while
stoking - this really limits the intimacy with the kiln. If you have plenty
of small straight wood that could be cut to 3' lengths then side stoking or
noborigama chamber comes to mind. But the downdraft firebox would handle
most of the big stuff with a minimum of risk to the potter. Two designs -
the hob and the Bourry Box have been proven to be the best. The hob require=
s
a particular length of wood to work best so if you just want to burn
anything and everything the Bourry Box is the way to go.
Chamber design could be cross draft or down draft - down draft chambers hav=
e
the best overall consistency of temperature. They can still be strongly
directional however.
If you have a good slope for a kiln site, say 20 degrees, and if you hit
clay when you dig it out, and have access to a back hoe maybe the ground ho=
g
would work out. The problem is that the fire box design of ground hog and
single-fire ox anagamas is less than ideal, they can be a pain to load, and
unless side-loading is made possible they only work well with smaller
pieces.
For loading purposes, the tall arch downdraft chamber is probably the best.
Anyway I am sure you will get lots of feedback on this - GOOD LUCK
h a n s e n
On Sun, Mar 7, 2010 at 9:07 AM, Beth Donovan wrote:
> I got to thinking, here I am with our 80 acres, goats, horses, chickens,
> ducks, guineas, peafowl, bunnies, etc., and a zillion osage orange trees
> I'm
> trying to cut down before they take over all of flyover country, that may=
be
> I should build a kiln. (Good Lord, that was a ridiculously long
> sentence!)
>
>
>
> Osage Orange is a very hot-burning wood, and rather than just building a
> big bonfire every month or so to burn the darn things, perhaps I would be
> better off burning them for a good reason - a kiln!
>
>
>
> Of course, since all I have is an electric kiln, I have no idea what is
> involved.
>
>
>
> Can any of you recommend a book with fairly simple and complete
> instructions
> on how to build a wood-fired kiln? I need something that is very complet=
e.
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks very much in advance,
>
>
>
> Beth Donovan
>
> Castle Argghhh!! Farm
>
> Easton, Kansas
>
William & Susan Schran User on sun 7 mar 10
n?
On 3/7/10 9:07 AM, "Beth Donovan" wrote:
> I got to thinking, here I am with our 80 acres, goats, horses, chickens,
> ducks, guineas, peafowl, bunnies, etc., and a zillion osage orange trees =
I'm
> trying to cut down before they take over all of flyover country, that may=
be
> I should build a kiln. (Good Lord, that was a ridiculously long sentenc=
e!)
> Osage Orange is a very hot-burning wood, and rather than just building a
> big bonfire every month or so to burn the darn things, perhaps I would be
> better off burning them for a good reason - a kiln!
> Of course, since all I have is an electric kiln, I have no idea what is
> involved.
> Can any of you recommend a book with fairly simple and complete instructi=
ons
> on how to build a wood-fired kiln? I need something that is very complet=
e.
Wait until Mel's new book comes out - soon!
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Lee Love on mon 8 mar 10
n?
On Mon, Mar 8, 2010 at 8:47 PM, Michael Wendt wrote:
> The Helmer clay is the same clay A.P. Green used from the
> early 50s until the late 70s to make the Yukon Super Duty
> firebricks. Helmer is rated at cone 32-34.
That's good! Mogusa/shino clay is porous at cone13. Like bisque.
I'll get some dry helmers and do a lineblend.
--=3D20
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mashikopots.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
Paul Haigh on mon 8 mar 10
n?
Beth- If you want to do some reading and learn all the basics, the Olsen's =
"The Kiln Book" is pretty complete.
Another good reference for Bourry box style kilns, which are great to fire =
is Steve Harrison's "Laid back wood firing"- these kilns can give great woo=
d fired effect. I also suggest looking through " http://www.sidestoke.com "=
- a great site for these kilns.
If you aren't as concerned with wood fired effect and just want to fire wit=
h wood with a little hint of flashing- try "Kiln Construction: a brick by b=
rick approach", by Joe Finch. It doesn't get simpler than his diagrams etc.
I suggest that you use a double wall of brick, though- rather than one laye=
r with backing board. My kiln is hard brick interior with soft brick exteri=
or, and it fires pretty quick and efficient if I do my job right.
Keep asking questions on this, and go see a few wood kilns being fired. I b=
uilt mine on seeing one kiln fired and reading a mess of books- it's a good=
kiln, but there are some subtle things I would have done differently.
-pH
wileyhill.com
gsomdahl on mon 8 mar 10
n?
Paul Haigh wrote:
> I suggest that you use a double wall of brick, though- rather than one la=
yer with backing board. My kiln is hard brick interior with soft brick exte=
rior, and it fires pretty quick and efficient if I do my job right.
>
>
The hard brick is needed because atmospheric firings (wood, salt, soda)
causes soft brick to break down. Hard brick absorbs more heat than soft
insulating bricks and so causes the kiln to require more energy to
complete the firings. Has any one tried using hard brick splits as a
kiln liner over soft bricks?
Gene Somdahl
--
This is a post only account. Send replies to "gene" at my ".com" domain nam=
ed "somdahl".
Michael Wendt on mon 8 mar 10
n?
Gene,
I am in the process of designing extrusion dies that will
allow me to extrude tongue and groove splits that I hope
will allow strong, thin walls to be constructed.
The Helmer clay is the same clay A.P. Green used from the
early 50s until the late 70s to make the Yukon Super Duty
firebricks. Helmer is rated at cone 32-34.
I plan to add Kyanite to help offset some of the shrinkage.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Gene wrote:
The hard brick is needed because atmospheric firings (wood,
salt, soda)
causes soft brick to break down. Hard brick absorbs more
heat than soft
insulating bricks and so causes the kiln to require more
energy to
complete the firings. Has any one tried using hard brick
splits as a
kiln liner over soft bricks?
Gene Somdahl
douglas fur on wed 10 mar 10
n?
Beth
I think eric's suggestion of a rectangular kiln one third of which is fire
bx is about the simplest to build. (ground hogs have a low circule
segment arch which would have a lot of sideways thrust and requisite
bracing.. The cat on the other hand would have low thrust and bracing needs=
)
For kiln design your "least common demominators" are your fuel and your kil=
n
shelves. The saying that "wood heat heats you twice" is quaint but you don'=
t
want to expend energy chopping wood while firing a kiln. Better to have a
fire box big enough to throw in garbage can size bundles of brush.
So the fuel module controls thefirebox and the shelf module the ware
chamber.
DRB
Seattle
Beth Donovan on wed 10 mar 10
n?
Thanks, Douglas.
It would be nice to have to handle the wood as little as possible to avoid
the durn thorns. I have several trees we cut down last fall with a ton of
branches which will burn nicely, once I figure out what I need to get, wher=
e
to buy it, and exactly where I want to build this.
In this part of the country, the brush can take over a perfectly good
pasture in a couple of seasons, and we find ourselves cutting and burning
osage orange and black locust constantly, and we have not even put a dent i=
n
it.
In the meantime, I've been watching the two new Angora Kids who were just
born in the past week.
Gosh, baby critters can sure take your mind off of stuff!.
From: douglas fur [mailto:23drb50@gmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 2:13 PM
To: Beth Donovan
Cc: Clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
Subject: Re: Suggestions for good reference on how to build a wood-fire
kiln?
Beth
I think eric's suggestion of a rectangular kiln one third of which is fire
bx is about the simplest to build. (ground hogs have a low circule segment
arch which would have a lot of sideways thrust and requisite bracing.. The
cat on the other hand would have low thrust and bracing needs) For kiln
design your "least common demominators" are your fuel and your kiln shelves=
.
The saying that "wood heat heats you twice" is quaint but you don't want to
expend energy chopping wood while firing a kiln. Better to have a fire box
big enough to throw in garbage can size bundles of brush.
So the fuel module controls thefirebox and the shelf module the ware
chamber.
DRB
Seattle
jonathan byler on wed 10 mar 10
n?
rumor has it there will be a couple of sessions on wood firing at
nceca? Jack troy and some others... I haven't taken the time to read
the program yet, but there are supposed to be some knowledgeable folks
going to be there discussing and presenting.
I am interested in learning more about design of these myself, and
have been contemplating working with a friend of one of my coworkers
on this. he teaches a class in the engineering dept on combustion
science, and we have been thinking about trying to get his class
involved in making wood kilns more efficient and cleaner burning,
while still maintaining the effects people want from a wood firing.
I'll keep y'all posted about how this progresses, and probably be
asking people about what they want and get out of wood firing, so that
we can find ways to incorporate that into efficient designs.
and of course with all this designing we will have to actually make
and fire at least one one kiln... not that anyone really has to twist
my arm on this...
jon
On Mar 10, 2010, at 3:42 PM, Beth Donovan wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Beth
>
> I think eric's suggestion of a rectangular kiln one third of which
> is fire
> bx is about the simplest to build. (ground hogs have a low circule
> segment
> arch which would have a lot of sideways thrust and requisite
> bracing.. The
> cat on the other hand would have low thrust and bracing needs) For
> kiln
> design your "least common demominators" are your fuel and your kiln
> shelves.
> The saying that "wood heat heats you twice" is quaint but you don't
> want to
> expend energy chopping wood while firing a kiln. Better to have a
> fire box
> big enough to throw in garbage can size bundles of brush.
>
> So the fuel module controls thefirebox and the shelf module the ware
> chamber.
>
> DRB
>
> Seattle
Eric Hansen on wed 10 mar 10
n?
Oh yeah - Kansas has some thorns all right - they say Black Locust
co-evolved with the Wooly Mammoth, I guess they like to scratch their
backs??
- h a n s e n
On Wed, Mar 10, 2010 at 4:42 PM, Beth Donovan wrote:
> Thanks, Douglas.
>
> It would be nice to have to handle the wood as little as possible to avoi=
d
> the durn thorns. I have several trees we cut down last fall with a ton o=
f
> branches which will burn nicely, once I figure out what I need to get,
> where
> to buy it, and exactly where I want to build this.
>
>
>
> In this part of the country, the brush can take over a perfectly good
> pasture in a couple of seasons, and we find ourselves cutting and burning
> osage orange and black locust constantly, and we have not even put a dent
> in
> it.
>
>
>
> In the meantime, I've been watching the two new Angora Kids who were just
> born in the past week.
>
>
>
> Gosh, baby critters can sure take your mind off of stuff!.
>
>
>
> From: douglas fur [mailto:23drb50@gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 10, 2010 2:13 PM
> To: Beth Donovan
> Cc: Clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> Subject: Re: Suggestions for good reference on how to build a wood-fire
> kiln?
>
>
>
> Beth
>
> I think eric's suggestion of a rectangular kiln one third of which is fir=
e
> bx is about the simplest to build. (ground hogs have a low circule segme=
nt
> arch which would have a lot of sideways thrust and requisite bracing.. Th=
e
> cat on the other hand would have low thrust and bracing needs) For kiln
> design your "least common demominators" are your fuel and your kiln
> shelves.
> The saying that "wood heat heats you twice" is quaint but you don't want =
to
> expend energy chopping wood while firing a kiln. Better to have a fire b=
ox
> big enough to throw in garbage can size bundles of brush.
>
> So the fuel module controls thefirebox and the shelf module the ware
> chamber.
>
> DRB
>
> Seattle
>
Paul Haigh on thu 11 mar 10
n?
I will again advocate for the Bourry box style kiln for efficiency and ease=
of use. People complain that the wood must be cut to certain dimensions an=
d that's a PITA- in my experience with my kiln- it's not true. First- with =
4.5" hobs on either side, there is some slop in the measurement. Second- wi=
th a hob in the middle, there's about no measuring required (I don't have a=
third hob).
Third- lately maybe 1/2 of my wood is cut to fit. I just throw wood in ther=
e, and some hits the hobs, the rest sort of builds up on that, sometimes I =
run it for a few as a crossdraft. I cut down invasive Japanese bittersweet =
and throw it in there in bunches. All my brush goes in leaves and all. My t=
rimmings, raspberries that invade, you name it. My Christmas tree is going =
in there in 2 weeks.
I am firing for some ash effects, so when I'm holding at 2300F, I just do s=
ome yard cleanup and burn everything. I could be burning just the pile of w=
ood, but I have fun with this process. I also carefully roll in surprisingl=
y large logs- 8-10" across or bigger, but they do burn faster if split.
-pH
http://wileyhill.com
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