Dolita Dohrman on wed 7 apr 10
I think I missed the original email for this thread. I saw something
about a saucer sled and just want to share how I make large textured
wall plates with one. Mine is a large red, shiny saucer. I spray the
hump side with PAM, take a large dry cleaner bag and smooth it over
the surface with a rubber rib. The same could be done with the
'slump' side. I use textured slabs and tear them into pieces to fit
over the hump but it would work just fine with a whole slab I am
sure. After I have formed the plate, I put the whole thing on the
wheel over a bucket and use bungee cords to hold it down on my wheel
(there are 4 small holes where the sled handles used to be), that way
I can throw a foot ring which is used to hang it. Once it has set
up, the plastic and PAM seem to allow the clay to stick long enough
so I can flip it over onto the sponge base I use to support it while
it dries the rest of the way. I would imagine that by using the
plastic and the PAM on the inside, it would allow you to remove the
piece quite easily without distortion. Just grip the excess plastic
around the edge and lift. It may take two people.
Hope this makes sense!
Dolita in Kentucky
Taylor Hendrix on wed 7 apr 10
This is an offshoot of the mold release agent threat. Tom was making a
hump mold from a snow saucer and wanted a good release agent.
I have an alternative to making such shapes that may be just as easy
for some and requires no release. I believe that Marcia Selsor
mentioned this method to me or we talked it out in conversation.
I used a large trashcan and draped it with a cloth, duct taping it
around the rim. I then had a hammock for my plaster to sit in. Thanks
to physics, the fluid plaster assumed a nice convex shape and assumed
a roundish shape at its periphery. My plastic trash can went oval on
me as I was taping so my first try was not a smashing success shape
wise, but my cloth released the plaster just fine. If you are worried
you may add a release agent or even a layer of smoothed plastic atop
the cloth and pour the plaster into that.
I do have some pictures on my blog that shows my messy process. I now
have a nice sturdy 55 gal drum in my studio that I will use for
further molding, so no more oddly ovoid platter forms. If you make it
robust enough you could probably then pour a raised foot to your mold
to lift it off work surfaces. Be warned, you will need to tool the
edge as the plaster will form a thin edge.
I love this stuff!
Taylor, in Rockport TX
wirerabbit1 on Skype (-0600 UTC)
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
Phoenix Rising Farm on thu 8 apr 10
Taylor and all:
A few other tricks I've learned along the clay road.
Go buy a piece of silk. Real silk. Color and pattern to be whatever
suits you.
Silk will show much less texture. I now use it over canvas, to
eliminate texture marks when I'm working with porcelain. You can also
use sateen
but you may get slight texturing, depending on your clay body.
Satellite dishes work a treat for large shallow "bowls" as a hump/slump
mold for slab work. These are usually available free for the asking
from people who are disgruntled with the cost or service from the
various companies whose names start with direct or dish
and have gone to cable. They are not very deep, though. They might work
fine for casting a mold.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
Waite Maine
where spring may actually be here...finally
On 4/7/2010 5:06 PM, Taylor Hendrix wrote:
> This is an offshoot of the mold release agent threat. Tom was making a
> hump mold from a snow saucer and wanted a good release agent.
>
> I have an alternative to making such shapes that may be just as easy
> for some and requires no release. I believe that Marcia Selsor
> mentioned this method to me or we talked it out in conversation.
>
> I used a large trashcan and draped it with a cloth, duct taping it
> around the rim. I then had a hammock for my plaster to sit in. Thanks
> to physics, the fluid plaster assumed a nice convex shape and assumed
> a roundish shape at its periphery. My plastic trash can went oval on
> me as I was taping so my first try was not a smashing success shape
> wise, but my cloth released the plaster just fine. If you are worried
> you may add a release agent or even a layer of smoothed plastic atop
> the cloth and pour the plaster into that.
>
> I do have some pictures on my blog that shows my messy process. I now
> have a nice sturdy 55 gal drum in my studio that I will use for
> further molding, so no more oddly ovoid platter forms. If you make it
> robust enough you could probably then pour a raised foot to your mold
> to lift it off work surfaces. Be warned, you will need to tool the
> edge as the plaster will form a thin edge.
>
> I love this stuff!
>
>
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> wirerabbit1 on Skype (-0600 UTC)
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
>
>
Des & Jan Howard on thu 8 apr 10
Taylor
We make large forms like these in 3 stages.
First pour, all over skin 10-15mm.
Second pour, mixed plaster & hessian sandbag strips,
pour 15-20mm layer.
Third pour, make an all around clay dam 40-50mm in from
edge, fill with plaster for thick, strong edge.
Des
Taylor Hendrix wrote:
> Be warned, you will need to tool the
> edge as the plaster will form a thin edge.
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
Lue NSW
Australia
2850
02 6373 6419
www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
-32.656072 149.840624
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