Greg Skipper on fri 26 dec 97
I just opened the kiln and found a large sculpture I'd spent many hours
on with several cracks. I guess I didn't fire slow enough or wait long
enough before firing. Clay seems to be so forgiving except in this
situation. Any ideas on salvage?
Thanks
Greg
Alyss Dorese on sat 27 dec 97
Greg Skipper wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I just opened the kiln and found a large sculpture I'd spent many hours
> on with several cracks. I guess I didn't fire slow enough or wait long
> enough before firing. Clay seems to be so forgiving except in this
> situation. Any ideas on salvage?
> Thanks
> Greg
Dear Greg:
My frustration with large pieces of sculpture has been minimized by
using paper clay, along with regular clay. I make my own paper clay out
of the clay I am using for sculpting and use both clays in conjuntion
with the other. With paper clay, I find if my piece dries out, all I
have to do is dampen the areas I am working in and add paperclay.
Sometimes the paperclay is slap rolled, other times I use it as slip.
It dries fast and I am able to carve with it. Thickness is not a
problem. I can make it paper thin or 1 1/2 " thick without cracks or
breaking. I have been experimenting and taking it to the limit. I
sculpt free standing life size animals as well as pieces up to 4 feet
high. Recently I did two whimsical pigs. I threw the bodies with Death
Valley Cone 10 Clay (Laguna Clay) and the feet. I Sculpted the heads out
of paperclay. You cannot tell the difference where the body and head
join. The only difference is that the piece is much lighter than it
looks.
You may want to try to make paper clay slip, thoroughly wet the bisqued
areas that are cracked and paint in the paper clay slip. Cover with wax
resist and let dry. Prior to refiring, sand down any area that is
protruding and or add additional paper clay. Dry thoroughly and
rebisque. Hope this helps.
Alyss Dorese
Palm Springs
Leslie Ihde on sat 27 dec 97
Greg- why don't you try paper clay.
Leslie
Talbott on sat 27 dec 97
Salvage... forget it... You will be wasting your time...
Make sure your pottery is really dry before bisque firing and then bisque
fire very slowly taking 4 or 5 hours to reach 450 Celsius... Marshall
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I just opened the kiln and found a large sculpture I'd spent many hours
>on with several cracks. I guess I didn't fire slow enough or wait long
>enough before firing. Clay seems to be so forgiving except in this
>situation. Any ideas on salvage?
>Thanks
>Greg
101 CLAYART MUGS... Now accepting mugs.
2ND ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1998)
E-MAIL ME FOR AN APPLICATION
http://fmc.utm.edu/~dmcbeth/cag/naples.htm
Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box 4116,
Naples, Maine 04055-4116,(207)693-6100 voice and fax,(call first)
Clayarters' Live Chat Room, Fri & Sat Nites at 10 PM EDT & Sun at 1 PM EDT
http://webchat12.wbs.net/webchat3.so?Room=PRIVATE_Clayarters
---------------------------------------------------------------------
sandra m benscoter on sat 27 dec 97
Hi Greg!
I've used caulk in the cracks and when dry touched up with paint to blend
in. This is only for my own benefit. Not to sell!! Although I know
several artists that do sell work in that condition as long as the buyer
is aware of the repair. And other artists (very well known) that don't
do any repair and the work is exhibited, as is, in galleries. I
approached one gallery owner and pointed this out and was told that the
artist works loosely and this is accepted in his work!!!! I'm not sure
I buy that!
Would like to hear what other Clayarters think!
Happy holiday to a great support group!!!
Sande
Stephen Mills on sat 27 dec 97
Greg,
This may well stir up a real Hornets nest, but I have a Potter/Sculptor
friend of some renown who makes large architectural pieces and maintains
his best friend in cases like this is a box of oxides and a very large
tube of Chemical Metal. After all what's wrong with mixed media!!!
All's fair in Love, War, & Ceramics??
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , Greg Skipper writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I just opened the kiln and found a large sculpture I'd spent many hours
>on with several cracks. I guess I didn't fire slow enough or wait long
>enough before firing. Clay seems to be so forgiving except in this
>situation. Any ideas on salvage?
>Thanks
>Greg
>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home tel: (44) (0)1225 311699 e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work tel: (44) (0)1225 337046 e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Jeanne Ormsby on sun 28 dec 97
I've had good luck with the Hi Fire Mender available thro the
catalogs--Bailey's or Axners, I think.
Jeanne
At 11:57 AM 12/27/97 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Greg Skipper wrote:
>>
>> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>> I just opened the kiln and found a large sculpture I'd spent many hours
>> on with several cracks. I guess I didn't fire slow enough or wait long
>> enough before firing. Clay seems to be so forgiving except in this
>> situation. Any ideas on salvage?
>> Thanks
>> Greg
>Dear Greg:
>
>My frustration with large pieces of sculpture has been minimized by
>using paper clay, along with regular clay. I make my own paper clay out
>of the clay I am using for sculpting and use both clays in conjuntion
>with the other. With paper clay, I find if my piece dries out, all I
>have to do is dampen the areas I am working in and add paperclay.
>Sometimes the paperclay is slap rolled, other times I use it as slip.
>It dries fast and I am able to carve with it. Thickness is not a
>problem. I can make it paper thin or 1 1/2 " thick without cracks or
>breaking. I have been experimenting and taking it to the limit. I
>sculpt free standing life size animals as well as pieces up to 4 feet
>high. Recently I did two whimsical pigs. I threw the bodies with Death
>Valley Cone 10 Clay (Laguna Clay) and the feet. I Sculpted the heads out
>of paperclay. You cannot tell the difference where the body and head
>join. The only difference is that the piece is much lighter than it
>looks.
>You may want to try to make paper clay slip, thoroughly wet the bisqued
>areas that are cracked and paint in the paper clay slip. Cover with wax
>resist and let dry. Prior to refiring, sand down any area that is
>protruding and or add additional paper clay. Dry thoroughly and
>rebisque. Hope this helps.
>
>Alyss Dorese
>Palm Springs
>
>
DEBBYGrant on sun 28 dec 97
Dear Steve,
What is chemical metal and where do you get it? Sounds really
interesting and may be a solution for a problem I have.
Thanks, Debby Grant in NH
Virginia Gibbons on mon 29 dec 97
HI ALYSS, I ALSO BUILD LARGE SCULPTURAL PIECES, AND CRACKS
ARE A CONSTANT MENACE. WOULD YOU SHARE YOUR FORMULA
FOR PAPER CLAY AND SOME TIPS ABOUT USING IT? DO YOU KNOW
OF A BOOK ABOUT P-CLAY? THANKS. VIRGINIA
Stephen Mills on tue 30 dec 97
Hi Debby,
Chemical Metal used to be known in the UK as Plastic Padding, it's a
resin based material in two tubes which you mix together. In the UK you
get it in Car Accessory shops where it's sold for filling in dents in
bodywork among other things!
Steve
Bath
UK
In message , DEBBYGrant writes
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Dear Steve,
>
>What is chemical metal and where do you get it? Sounds really
>interesting and may be a solution for a problem I have.
>
>Thanks, Debby Grant in NH
>
--
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
home tel: (44) (0)1225 311699 e-mail: stevemills@mudslinger.demon.co.uk
work tel: (44) (0)1225 337046 e-mail: stevemills@bathpotters.demon.co.uk
Alyss Dorese on tue 30 dec 97
Virginia Gibbons wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> HI ALYSS, I ALSO BUILD LARGE SCULPTURAL PIECES, AND CRACKS
> ARE A CONSTANT MENACE. WOULD YOU SHARE YOUR FORMULA
> FOR PAPER CLAY AND SOME TIPS ABOUT USING IT? DO YOU KNOW
> OF A BOOK ABOUT P-CLAY? THANKS. VIRGINIA
Three years ago we experimented with Paperclay at College of the
Desert. We used lintel
paper and clay. Since then what I do is use three rolls toilet tissue
to 25 lb bag of prepared clay that has been made into slip. I tear the
toilet paper into pieces and either in a large 5 gallon bucket I wet it
down and let it turn into fiber. I will use a drill mixer or else break
it up with an old kitchen blender, blending the paper with water and
putting it in a 5 gallon bucker. In another bucket I cut up my clay and
add water and let it stay for about 48 hrs stirring occasionally until
it is slip. Once the bucket of paper is fiberous, also 48 hours, I
drain the water out of the paper and add to the clay slip. Mix together
to get a creamy consistency. I then either use it as slip or dry it out
on plaster or concrete floor or on newspaper to absorb the water. Wedge
and use. If in the slip state it get moldy, I add a cup of clorox. If
you need any additional information or have any other questions, just
ask.
Good luck.
Alyss Dorese
Palm Springs
Talbott on tue 30 dec 97
If cracks occured during the bisque fire then the cracks will
surely get worse during the glaze fire regardless of what you do to the
piece. ..Marshall
101 CLAYART MUGS
2ND ANNUAL CLAYARTERS' GALLERY - NAPLES, MAINE (Summer 1998)
E-MAIL ME FOR AN APPLICATION
http://fmc.utm.edu/~dmcbeth/cag/naples.htm
Celia & Marshall Talbott, Pottery By Celia, Route 114, P O Box 4116,
Naples, Maine 04055-4116,(207)693-6100 voice and fax,(call first)
Clayarters' Live Chat Room, Fri & Sat Nites at 10 PM EDT & Sun at 1 PM EDT
http://webchat12.wbs.net/webchat3.so?Room=PRIVATE_Clayarters
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Jack Krueger on sat 24 jan 98
Alyss Dorese (dorese@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
Just what is the recipe for the paper clay, and have you tried it with
bisque ware?
Pleas e-mail me with your response.
jak@netaxs.com
Jack
: ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
: Greg Skipper wrote:
: >
: > ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
: > I just opened the kiln and found a large sculpture I'd spent many hours
: > on with several cracks. I guess I didn't fire slow enough or wait long
: > enough before firing. Clay seems to be so forgiving except in this
: > situation. Any ideas on salvage?
: > Thanks
: > Greg
: Dear Greg:
:
: My frustration with large pieces of sculpture has been minimized by
: using paper clay, along with regular clay. I make my own paper clay out
: of the clay I am using for sculpting and use both clays in conjuntion
: with the other. With paper clay, I find if my piece dries out, all I
: have to do is dampen the areas I am working in and add paperclay.
: Sometimes the paperclay is slap rolled, other times I use it as slip.
: It dries fast and I am able to carve with it. Thickness is not a
: problem. I can make it paper thin or 1 1/2 " thick without cracks or
: breaking. I have been experimenting and taking it to the limit. I
: sculpt free standing life size animals as well as pieces up to 4 feet
: high. Recently I did two whimsical pigs. I threw the bodies with Death
: Valley Cone 10 Clay (Laguna Clay) and the feet. I Sculpted the heads out
: of paperclay. You cannot tell the difference where the body and head
: join. The only difference is that the piece is much lighter than it
: looks.
: You may want to try to make paper clay slip, thoroughly wet the bisqued
: areas that are cracked and paint in the paper clay slip. Cover with wax
: resist and let dry. Prior to refiring, sand down any area that is
: protruding and or add additional paper clay. Dry thoroughly and
: rebisque. Hope this helps.
:
: Alyss Dorese
: Palm Springs
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