Lynne Berman on wed 26 may 10
I use this under porcelain on Advancer shelves otherwise the porcelain
sticks to the shelves despite alumina wax and I lose chips out of the
bottom of my work. I get it from Smith-Sharpe in Minneapolis (www.ssfbs.com
). The Advancer folks introduced me to Dona Turbes from there at NCECA.
866/545-6743
Lynne Berman
William & Susan Schran User on wed 26 may 10
On 5/26/10 3:51 AM, "Lynne Berman" wrote:
> I use this under porcelain on Advancer shelves otherwise the porcelain
> sticks to the shelves despite alumina wax and I lose chips out of the
> bottom of my work. I get it from Smith-Sharpe in Minneapolis (www.ssfbs.c=
om
> ). The Advancer folks introduced me to Dona Turbes from there at NCECA.
I use Advancer shelves in my electric kiln for my crystalline glaze firings
and at school in our gas fired kiln.
I tested using the ceramics fiber paper, but decided it was too expensive
for as much as we would go through each semester.
In my studio I sprinkle alumina hydrate on the shelf using a cheap kitchen
sieve to control where it goes and to just get a light coating.
At school, for students using porcelain or B-Mix type clays, we have found
the alumina mixed with wax to work well.
To prevent bits of kiln posts sticking to Advancer shelves, we apply a ligh=
t
coat of this mix: alumina hydrate - 50% (1/2 scoop), epk - 25% (1/4 scoop),
calcined epk - 25% (1/4 scoop). I got this mix from Marshall Browne at
Smith-Sharpe.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Lee Love on wed 26 may 10
Marion, a friend I fire with, makes various thin tiles she places
under her delicate handbuilt porcelain. She puts kiln wash on the
tile after bisquing. Because they are only bisqued, they shrink
with the porcelain set on top them. She gives them to the kiln room
after a glaze firing and they continue to be used by others who do not
need them to shrink. They are used over and over again, until a glaze
drip calls for their disposal.
For student work, I would make the use of these washed tiles manditory.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
John Rodgers on wed 26 may 10
I don't fire to cone 10, though I could, because my kilns are cone 10
electrics. But for protection of my kilns, I chose to work at C-6. For
both the work and the shelves - both porcelain and stoneware - I use
alumina hydrate. In dry powder form, I put it directly on the shelves,
then spread it around as evenly as possible, then I take one of those
stainless metal throwing tools- the very thin flexy ones, but one with a
serated edge, and drag the alumina around until the shelf or shelves
look like corn rows. Then I place the ware on the corn rows. This
process raises up little ridges which on a very small scale will support
a piece off the shelf, and this alumina being loose material, the
porcelain as it shrinks can move on the alumina. It's a bit like having
the porcelain sitting on tiny little ball bearings. It can move and
alumina bearings move underneath with it. Prevents sticking, pulling and
cracking of the porcelain. Now for me this all works well at cone 6. I
don't know if the alumina will work at cone 10. You may need another
more refractory material. But the principle would be the same -
refractory ball bearings under the ware.
John Rodgers
Clayartist and Moldmaker
88'GL VW Bus Driver
Chelsea, AL
Http://www.moldhaus.com
On 5/26/2010 2:51 AM, Lynne Berman wrote:
> I use this under porcelain on Advancer shelves otherwise the porcelain
> sticks to the shelves despite alumina wax and I lose chips out of the
> bottom of my work. I get it from Smith-Sharpe in Minneapolis
> (www.ssfbs.com
> ). The Advancer folks introduced me to Dona Turbes from there at NCECA.
> 866/545-6743
>
> Lynne Berman
>
>
Susan P on wed 26 may 10
Isn't there a danger of breathing in the dust?
Susan near Seattle
On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 10:41 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> I don't fire to cone 10, though I could, because my kilns are cone 10
> electrics. But for protection of my kilns, I chose to work at C-6. For
> both the work and the shelves - both porcelain and stoneware - I use
> alumina hydrate. In dry powder form, I put it directly on the shelves,
> then spread it around as evenly as possible, then I take one of those
> stainless metal throwing tools- the very thin flexy ones, but one with a
> serated edge, and drag the alumina around until the shelf or shelves
> look like corn rows. Then I place the ware on the corn rows. This
> process raises up little ridges which on a very small scale will support
> a piece off the shelf, and this alumina being loose material, the
> porcelain as it shrinks can move on the alumina. It's a bit like having
> the porcelain sitting on tiny little ball bearings. It can move and
> alumina bearings move underneath with it. Prevents sticking, pulling and
> cracking of the porcelain. Now for me this all works well at cone 6. I
> don't know if the alumina will work at cone 10. You may need another
> more refractory material. But the principle would be the same -
> refractory ball bearings under the ware.
>
> John Rodgers
> Clayartist and Moldmaker
> 88'GL VW Bus Driver
> Chelsea, AL
> Http://www.moldhaus.com
>
>
>
> On 5/26/2010 2:51 AM, Lynne Berman wrote:
>
>> I use this under porcelain on Advancer shelves otherwise the porcelain
>> sticks to the shelves despite alumina wax and I lose chips out of the
>> bottom of my work. I get it from Smith-Sharpe in Minneapolis
>> (www.ssfbs.com
>> ). The Advancer folks introduced me to Dona Turbes from there at NCECA.
>> 866/545-6743
>>
>> Lynne Berman
>>
>>
>>
Lynne Berman on wed 26 may 10
We found that alumina on the shelves blew around some in the gas kiln
and ruined some of the work.
Lynne Berman
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