jonathan byler on thu 27 may 10
I was curious what firing schedules people use for ^10 soda firing,
and also about thoughts for the amount of soda people are using for a
first and subsequent firings.
I have some info from vince form a little while back, saying that he
uses about 2-3 lbs of soda ash for a "light" effect in his roughly 30
cu ft kiln.
ours is a bit shy of 49, with actual stacking space probably on the
order of 20 - 25 cu ft would you up the amount of soda proportionally
to the volume of the kiln? Also, if the kiln is pre-seasoned with a
shino glaze will this reduce the amount of soda needed for the first
few firings relative to a completely bare kiln?
as to schedules, I was curious about reduction - when, how much, how
long? we tend to start our normal ^10 glaze firings into a heavy
reduction for about an hour once the kiln gets up to about 1600F (nice
for shinos in our experience), and then leave a light reduction to
neutral atmosphere for the rest of the firing. Does soda firing
require a different schedule? Finally, when to add the soda?
naturally once it gets up to temperature, but how hot at a minimum? I
suspect adding earlier would give a stronger effect, but having never
done this or seen it done, I have no good point from which to judge.
thanks,
jon
Lee Love on thu 27 may 10
I also use localized salt cups (cups made of half EPK, half Alumina.)
It makes for variation on the surfaces. Salt likes to bleach out the
red.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
Lee Love on thu 27 may 10
Jonathan,
My last soda firing I used Gail Nichols mixture of soda ash,
bicarbonate and whiting. Except, I sprayed it in. You can find the
mix online.
It was a really good firing. Next time, I will replace whiting
with woodash.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
jonathan byler on thu 27 may 10
thanks for the info hank! it will give me a good place to start.
On May 27, 2010, at 2:17 PM, Hank Murrow wrote:
>
> On May 27, 2010, at 11:15 AM, jonathan byler wrote:
>
>> I was curious what firing schedules people use for ^10 soda firing,
>> and also about thoughts for the amount of soda people are using for a
>> first and subsequent firings.
>>
>> I have some info from vince form a little while back, saying that he
>> uses about 2-3 lbs of soda ash for a "light" effect in his roughly 30
>> cu ft kiln.
>
> Hi, Hank here;
>
> I fired Vince's soda kiln back in 2004 and dissolved 4#'s of soda in
> hot water in a 2.5 gallon sprayer with a brass tip. I fired the kiln
> to cone 11 in the front and cone 8 was still up in the back(it is a
> crossdraft kiln). After spraying the entire contents of the sprayer
> over a 20 minute period, the 11 was nearly flat in front, and the
> cone 10 was bending at the back. My theory is that the brine
> solution robbed heat from the firebox and transferred that heat to
> the back. Anyway, all the pots looked good...... heavy soda at the
> front and lighter as one got to the back. 12 hour firing in total.
>>
>> ours is a bit shy of 49, with actual stacking space probably on the
>> order of 20 - 25 cu ft would you up the amount of soda
>> proportionally
>> to the volume of the kiln? Also, if the kiln is pre-seasoned with a
>> shino glaze will this reduce the amount of soda needed for the first
>> few firings relative to a completely bare kiln?
>
> More to worry about would be the introduction of the soda. If done
> as brine solution, I think you could get away with 4#s. If throwing
> it in in burritos or equivalent, maybe more. The problem is that it
> can melt and get down in the cracks of the brickwork in the
> firebox....... not good.
>>
>> as to schedules, I was curious about reduction - when, how much, how
>> long? we tend to start our normal ^10 glaze firings into a heavy
>> reduction for about an hour once the kiln gets up to about 1600F
>> (nice
>> for shinos in our experience), and then leave a light reduction to
>> neutral atmosphere for the rest of the firing. Does soda firing
>> require a different schedule? Finally, when to add the soda?
>> naturally once it gets up to temperature, but how hot at a
>> minimum? I
>> suspect adding earlier would give a stronger effect, but having never
>> done this or seen it done, I have no good point from which to judge.
>
> As you can see from the above remarks, no separate schedule
> required, body reduction followed by light reduction after, and soda
> when the guard cone shows signs of softening.
>
>
> Cheers, Hank
>
> PS: I regularly fired the 60 cuft salt kiln at Anderson Ranch in the
> early 70's with 4#'s of salt, thrown in dry in the fireboxes, which
> were lined with a sort of 'lake/reservoir' made of Greencast 94. We
> turned off the burners and dampered the kiln there for 15
> minutes....... very even salting.
jonathan byler on fri 28 may 10
It sounds like this would give the effect of a woodfiring, but in a =3D20
soda kiln. Is that about what it looks like?
On May 27, 2010, at 10:46 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> Jonathan,
>
> My last soda firing I used Gail Nichols mixture of soda ash,
> bicarbonate and whiting. Except, I sprayed it in. You can find the
> mix online.
>
> It was a really good firing. Next time, I will replace whiting
> with woodash.
>
> --
> Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
> http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
>
> =3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. =3D
Feel
> the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
Dan Hill on fri 28 may 10
Hi Jonathon and all.
Thought I would chime in about your inaugural soda firing. Very exciting!
The wadding mix I use is equal parts Hawthorne Bond Fireclay, Calcined
kaolin, and alumina hydrate. I also use this on the shelves as a very thick
kilnwash applied with a 1/4" notched trowel, this eliminates the need for
wadding under the pots.
I fire to ^6 - 7 so as far as the introduction of soda I start the first
blast about ^6 and then when the kiln recovers temp. and ^6 is half way
down I spray in another batch and again let the kiln recover temp then cras=
h
cool to 1100 celcius.
I use just over 2.5 lbs. of soda in my 40 cu.ft. downdraft.
Good luck and good pots.
Dan Hill
Hill Pottery
www.wilnogardengallery.com
Soda firing workshops July 17 and 18th and Sept. 18 and 19th.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jonathan byler"
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 2:15 PM
Subject: soda kiln firing schedule.
>I was curious what firing schedules people use for ^10 soda firing,
> and also about thoughts for the amount of soda people are using for a
> first and subsequent firings.
>
> I have some info from vince form a little while back, saying that he
> uses about 2-3 lbs of soda ash for a "light" effect in his roughly 30
> cu ft kiln.
>
> ours is a bit shy of 49, with actual stacking space probably on the
> order of 20 - 25 cu ft would you up the amount of soda proportionally
> to the volume of the kiln? Also, if the kiln is pre-seasoned with a
> shino glaze will this reduce the amount of soda needed for the first
> few firings relative to a completely bare kiln?
>
> as to schedules, I was curious about reduction - when, how much, how
> long? we tend to start our normal ^10 glaze firings into a heavy
> reduction for about an hour once the kiln gets up to about 1600F (nice
> for shinos in our experience), and then leave a light reduction to
> neutral atmosphere for the rest of the firing. Does soda firing
> require a different schedule? Finally, when to add the soda?
> naturally once it gets up to temperature, but how hot at a minimum? I
> suspect adding earlier would give a stronger effect, but having never
> done this or seen it done, I have no good point from which to judge.
>
> thanks,
> jon
>
ivor & olive lewis on fri 28 may 10
Dear Jonathan Byler,
You ask about the quantity of volatiles needed to produce a vapour glaze by
suggesting .... "ours is a bit shy of 49, with actual stacking space
probably on the order of 20 - 25 cu ft would you up the amount of soda
proportionally
to the volume of the kiln? "
Surely the amount of Soda required would be better related to the area of
the product being processed plus an amount needed to season the walls,
floor, ceiling and the furniture. A bit of a chore to calculate but in the
interest of economy and savings it might be an avenue worth while exploring=
.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis,
Redhill,
South Australia
Lee Love on sat 29 may 10
On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 2:44 PM, jonathan byler wrote:
> It sounds like this would give the effect of a woodfiring, but in a soda
> kiln. =3DA0Is that about what it looks like?
With the salt cups, it is very difficult to distinguish from wood
fire because of the varity/non-uniformity you get.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
Lee Love on mon 31 may 10
It works very well. Much better than solid. This is because it
isn't as volitile as salt. Try it!
On Mon, May 31, 2010 at 5:34 PM, Eva Gallagher wrote:
> Hi Lee - how can you spray it in? It is supposed to react reather violent=
=3D
ly
> when you add water and then forms these hard bits. Am I missing something=
=3D
?
> The wood ash sounds good. Actually what about just water and wood ash? Th=
=3D
at
> may spread the ash differently then just ash from the fire box.
>
> Eva Gallagher
> http://newfoundoutpotter.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Love"
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 11:46 PM
> Subject: Re: soda kiln firing schedule.
>
>
> Jonathan,
>
> =3DA0 My last soda firing I used Gail Nichols mixture of soda ash,
> bicarbonate and whiting. =3DA0Except, I sprayed it in. =3DA0You can find =
the
> mix online.
>
> =3DA0 =3DA0 It was a really good firing. =3DA0Next time, I will replace w=
hiting
> with woodash.
>
> --
> Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
> http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
>
> =3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
> the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
>
>
>
>
--=3D20
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
Eva Gallagher on mon 31 may 10
Hi Lee - how can you spray it in? It is supposed to react reather violently
when you add water and then forms these hard bits. Am I missing something?
The wood ash sounds good. Actually what about just water and wood ash? That
may spread the ash differently then just ash from the fire box.
Eva Gallagher
http://newfoundoutpotter.blogspot.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Love"
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: soda kiln firing schedule.
Jonathan,
My last soda firing I used Gail Nichols mixture of soda ash,
bicarbonate and whiting. Except, I sprayed it in. You can find the
mix online.
It was a really good firing. Next time, I will replace whiting
with woodash.
--
Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
"Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent." --Rumi
| |
|
