lela martens on wed 2 jun 10
Hi all=3D2C
=3D20
Our guild is planning a pit-fire this summer. Does the clay need to be a h=
=3D
igh fire cone 10=3D2C or will cone 6 clays work?=3D20
Also=3D2C is terra sig. necessary=3D2C or does it simply bring on the shine=
. A =3D
person who would prefer a more rustic look would be fine without..No?
=3D20
Thanks.
Lela=3D2C where the sun is finally shining.
=3D20
_________________________________________________________________
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Patty on wed 2 jun 10
Cone 6 works fine. I've used cone 6 porcelain and burnished it. I also
place the pot on three layers of heavy duty aluminum foil, add sulphate
salt, (CoSO4, CuSO4 and FeSO4)and a small amount of pine needles or what
ever, (to much and the piece will be all black). Another fun thing is to
open up a copper or brass(?) Choreboy and enclose the piece in the mesh
(makes a great grid pattern). Then wrap it up in the three layers of foil
and you have a sagger in the pit. I've had pieces where I used terrasig an=
d
put it directly in the fire (no sagger), the terrasig cracked, bits fell of=
f
and the piece looked like it was ancient. E-mail me directly and I can sen=
d
you pictures of my closed form, sagger fired pieces.
Patty Kaliher
Snail Scott on thu 3 jun 10
On Jun 2, 2010, at 2:13 PM, lela martens wrote:
> Our guild is planning a pit-fire this summer. Does the clay need to
> be a high fire cone 10, or will cone 6 clays work?
Earthenware will work, too. More undervitrified
clays simply handle thermal shock better.
>
> Also, is terra sig. necessary, or does it simply bring on the shine...
It's for shine. It also makes the surface tighter,
but that's more of a traditional functional concern,
(Nowadays in the US, hardly anyone does
pitfiring for function, so I'm assuming that you
aren't either.) You can also shine the clay by
burnishing if you like, and any slips or other
non-vitreous surfaces are fair game for decorating.
You can also add stuff like copper to the firing
itself to get flashed color - a popular option with
pit firing.
-Snail
lela martens on fri 4 jun 10
Hi Snail=3D2C and others who replied=3D2C
=3D20
Thanks for verifying...as I thought=3D2C but needed to be sure.
Also thanks for the hints.
=3D20
Lela
=3D20
> On Jun 2=3D2C 2010=3D2C at 2:13 PM=3D2C lela martens wrote:
> > Our guild is planning a pit-fire this summer. Does the clay need to
> > be a high fire cone 10=3D2C or will cone 6 clays work?
>=3D20
> Earthenware will work=3D2C too. More undervitrified
> clays simply handle thermal shock better.
>=3D20
> >
> > Also=3D2C is terra sig. necessary=3D2C or does it simply bring on the s=
hine=3D
...
>=3D20
>=3D20
> It's for shine. It also makes the surface tighter=3D2C
> but that's more of a traditional functional concern=3D2C
=3D20
_________________________________________________________________
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David Woof on fri 4 jun 10
Lela=3D2C =3D20
I would add/encourage a field trip for the guild to dig samples of native c=
=3D
lays in your area. Ask building and road construction contractors where to =
=3D
start. They are always findind and cursing clay. This lends a historic sign=
=3D
ificance to your activity and the naturally occuring mineral content in man=
=3D
y of these clays will give you surprises from the fire.
Most of these clays will be earthenware=3D2C resistant to shock and open to=
r=3D
ecieve the influence of the fire.
=3D20
david woof...Clarkdale=3D2C AZ.........gotta go and weld some support wire =
fo=3D
r the insulating mud mix on "Little Larry" before the sun gets high and bea=
=3D
ts me up. Larry our Tech built it from MFT plans when he was a student he=
=3D
re. Worked well as an MFTs until someone else came along and sprung a high =
=3D
arch on it. (Not faulting him=3D2C he likes arches and built a respectable =
on=3D
e) Now it will get an adobe coat=3D2C ITC=3D2C and finish it's life as a s=
oda =3D
kiln. I weld=3D2C rebuild a flue that works(venturi)=3D2C add a few handy=
fea=3D
tures of my own preference and Larry and Bev will mud it up. =3D20
________________________________________________________________________
3a. Re: pit fire queary
Posted by: "Snail Scott" claywork@FLYING-SNAIL.COM=3D20
Date: Thu Jun 3=3D2C 2010 5:01 pm ((PDT))
On Jun 2=3D2C 2010=3D2C at 2:13 PM=3D2C lela martens wrote:
> Our guild is planning a pit-fire this summer. Does the clay need to
> be a high fire cone 10=3D2C or will cone 6 clays work?
Earthenware will work=3D2C too. More undervitrified
clays simply handle thermal shock better.
>
> Also=3D2C is terra sig. necessary=3D2C or does it simply bring on the shi=
ne..=3D
.
It's for shine. It also makes the surface tighter=3D2C
but that's more of a traditional functional concern=3D2C
(Nowadays in the US=3D2C hardly anyone does
pitfiring for function=3D2C so I'm assuming that you
aren't either.) You can also shine the clay by
burnishing if you like=3D2C and any slips or other
non-vitreous surfaces are fair game for decorating.
You can also add stuff like copper to the firing
itself to get flashed color - a popular option with
pit firing.
-Snail
=3D20
=3D20
_________________________________________________________________
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