Cathi Newlin on tue 15 jun 10
I have a question about using mason stains to add a little color to a
cone 10 piece.
The piece is white stoneware. It has a sprigged design on it, and so at
bone dry, I brushed on a black slip and then wiped it off to enhance the
design, then I bisque fired it.
I want to add just a few pops of color to it before applying a clear
glaze to it.
I'm a tad confused about doing this. One place suggested 50/50 stain and
feldspar, others have very complicated recipes
It seems simply mixing the stain with water and brushing it on is not
the best option?
The areas I want to color are small - no more than 5 areas of less than
1/2 square inch each, on a piece that's nearly 3 feet long, so I'd like
to have some fairly strong color.
Thanks everyone!
--
Cathi Newlin, Angels Camp, Ca
cathi@box49.com
box49@caltel.com
cathi@SquarePegArts.com
-------------------------------
The Square Peg
http://www.squarepegarts.com
California Boxers in Need:
http://CaliforniaBoxer.org
David Woof on wed 16 jun 10
Cathi=3D2C=3D20
the feldspar is ment to help flux the stain to the clay surface. If you pl=
=3D
an to to overglaze with a clear this will usually serve to flux the stain a=
=3D
s well so the feldspar may not be necessesary. Howevers: many com. prepar=
=3D
ed stains=3D2C dry or preped wet=3D2C already contain a flux.
=3D20
If mixing up a dry stain=3D2C CMC gum added to your mixing water gives the =
ap=3D
plied stain extra protection from smudging and distortion in the unfired ha=
=3D
ndling/glazing stages.
=3D20
As with everything of value=3D2C don't cut corners=3D2C test=3D2C test=3D2C=
test an=3D
d keep records.
=3D20
=3D20
Woof
=3D20
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
15. Mason Stains on ^10 Stoneware?
Posted by: "Cathi Newlin" box49@CALTEL.COM=3D20
Date: Tue Jun 15=3D2C 2010 12:44 pm ((PDT))
=3D20
I have a question about using mason stains to add a little color to a
cone 10 piece.
The piece is white stoneware. It has a sprigged design on it=3D2C and so at
bone dry=3D2C I brushed on a black slip and then wiped it off to enhance th=
e
design=3D2C then I bisque fired it.
I want to add just a few pops of color to it before applying a clear
glaze to it.
I'm a tad confused about doing this. One place suggested 50/50 stain and
feldspar=3D2C others have very complicated recipes
It seems simply mixing the stain with water and brushing it on is not
the best option?
The areas I want to color are small - no more than 5 areas of less than
1/2 square inch each=3D2C on a piece that's nearly 3 feet long=3D2C so I'd =
like
to have some fairly strong color.
=3D20
Thanks everyone!
=3D20
--
=3D20
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search=3D2C chat and e-mail from your inb=
ox=3D
.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=3D3DPID28326::T:WLMTAGL=
:O=3D
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3=3D
ivor and olive lewis on wed 16 jun 10
Dear Cathi Newlin,
Since you are using a black slip my suggestion would be to mix a small
amount of fresh (White) clay that forms the basis of you black slip with
your Mason stain.
You only need enough clay to sinter the applied colour to the clay or to th=
e
black slip. Five percent by weight may be sufficient and would hardly dilut=
e
the intensity of your intended colour.
Using an excess amount of flux (Felspar or frit) with the colour may seal
the surface during bisque firing, later preventing capillary draw during
glazing. This can lead to a scared surface.
You may need to experiment before working on you larger piece.
Regards,
Ivor Lewis,
REDHILL,
South Australia
Jackson Gray on wed 16 jun 10
Hey Cathi, Since you plan to use a clear glaze over all, why not just
mix a bit of the stain up in a small amount of your glaze? Depending on
your color, you can increase the strength to get the brightness and if
it isn't for functional ware, you'd have no worries. The encapsulated
stains do great at high temps. I've also had great luck with Mayco's
underglazes, Flame red and Dragon red and their Stroke & Coat Hot Tamale
staying bright at cone 10. Good luck.
steve graber on wed 16 jun 10
i never seem to retain the red-yellow-orange style colors at cone 10, but d=
=3D
o get the green-blue-earth tone ones.=3DA0 =3D0A=3D0Ai think the high temp =
wipes =3D
out the pizzaz colors you might be after?=3D0A=3DA0Steve Graber, Graber's P=
otte=3D
ry, Inc=3D0AClaremont, California USA=3D0AThe Steve Tool - for awesome text=
ure =3D
on pots! =3D0Awww.graberspottery.com steve@graberspottery.com =3D0A=3D0A=3D=
0AOn Lag=3D
una Clay's website=3D0Ahttp://www.lagunaclay.com/blogs/ =3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0=
A----- Ori=3D
ginal Message ----=3D0A> From: David Woof =3D0A> To: =
Clay=3D
art@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0A> Sent: Wed, June 16, 2010 6:47:27 AM=3D0A> Subjec=
t: R=3D
e: Mason Stains on ^10 Stoneware?=3D0A> =3D0A> Cathi, =3D0A=3D0Athe feldspa=
r is men=3D
t to help flux the stain to the clay =3D0A> surface.=3DA0 If you plan to to=
ove=3D
rglaze with a clear this will usually serve =3D0A> to flux the stain as wel=
l =3D
so the feldspar may not be necessesary.=3DA0 =3D0A> Howevers: many com. pre=
pare=3D
d stains, dry or preped wet, already contain a =3D0A> flux.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=
=3D0AIf mix=3D
ing up a dry stain, CMC gum added to your mixing =3D0A> water gives the app=
li=3D
ed stain extra protection from smudging and distortion in =3D0A> the unfire=
d =3D
handling/glazing stages.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0AAs with everything of =3D0A> va=
lue, don't=3D
cut corners, test, test, test and keep records.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A> =
=3D0A=3D0AWoof=3D
=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0 =3DA0 =3D0A> =3D0A=3D0A=3D0A_______________________________=
________________=3D
_________________________=3D0A_____________________________________________=
__=3D
_________________________=3D0A15. =3D0A> Mason Stains on ^10 Stoneware?=3D0=
APoste=3D
d by: "Cathi Newlin" > ymailto=3D3D"mailto:box49@CALTEL.COM" =3D0A> href=3D=
3D"mai=3D
lto:box49@CALTEL.COM">box49@CALTEL.COM =3D0ADate: Tue Jun 15, 2010 =3D0A> 1=
2:44=3D
pm ((PDT))=3D0A=3D0AI have a question about using mason stains to add a =
=3D0A> l=3D
ittle color to a=3D0Acone 10 piece.=3D0AThe piece is white stoneware. It ha=
s a =3D
=3D0A> sprigged design on it, and so at=3D0Abone dry, I brushed on a black =
slip=3D
and then =3D0A> wiped it off to enhance the=3D0Adesign, then I bisque fire=
d it=3D
.=3D0AI want to add =3D0A> just a few pops of color to it before applying a=
cle=3D
ar=3D0Aglaze to it.=3D0AI'm a =3D0A> tad confused about doing this. One pla=
ce sug=3D
gested 50/50 stain and=3D0Afeldspar, =3D0A> others have very complicated re=
cipe=3D
s=3D0AIt seems simply mixing the stain with =3D0A> water and brushing it on=
is =3D
not=3D0Athe best option?=3D0AThe areas I want to color =3D0A> are small - n=
o more=3D
than 5 areas of less than=3D0A1/2 square inch each, on a =3D0A> piece that=
's n=3D
early 3 feet long, so I'd like=3D0Ato have some fairly strong =3D0A> color.=
=3D0A=3D
=3D0AThanks everyone!=3D0A=3D0A--=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3D0A> =
=3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3D
=3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3D0A> =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =3DA0 =
=3DA0 =3DA0 =3D0A> =3D0A__________=3D
_______________________________________________________=3D0AThe New =3D0A> =
Busy=3D
is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.=3D0A> href=
=3D3D"=3D
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=3D3DPID28326::T:WLMTAGL=
:O=3D
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3" =3D0A> target=3D3D_blank =3D0A> >http://www.win=
dowsli=3D
ve.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=3D3DPID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:=
04=3D
2010_3=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
Janine in Tacoma on wed 16 jun 10
Hi Cathi: You've likely considered this, but in case not... You will als=
=3D
o want to=3D20
check the reference numbers on the Mason Stain Chart. Some colors will n=
=3D
ot=3D20
hold up to cone 10.
Have fun testing.
Janine
(BTW - I adore Angels Camp in the spring, when the manzanita is blooming!=
=3D
)
Bonnie Hellman on fri 18 jun 10
I've used Mason Stains and other commercial stains in Tony Hansen's 5 part
glaze for cone 6 and for the most part they are similar to water colors.
Generally I use around 10% with the glaze. I can't speak about ^10 but most
stains work at cone 6, although not all. For certain colors I use more stai=
n
and for blues I use less.
At around 10% you might want to add an opacifier if you want a solid color
look without seeing brush strokes.
I particularly like the Spectrum Stains (sold by Bailey Pottery at:
http://www.baileypottery.com/glazes/spectrum2000.htm
and I'm sure sold elsewhere as well) because they come in plastic jars,
making them accessible to measure and easy to store.
I've bought the encapsulated reds and oranges at US Pigment because their
prices are excellent. I believe that theirs are made in China, although I
don't know where other manufacturers make theirs. Check out:
http://www.uspigment.com/inclusion-stains.shtml
Bonnie
Bonnie Hellman
Ouray, CO. USA
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Jackson Gray
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 2010 7:38 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Mason Stains on ^10 Stoneware?
Hey Cathi, Since you plan to use a clear glaze over all, why not just
mix a bit of the stain up in a small amount of your glaze? Depending on
your color, you can increase the strength to get the brightness and if
it isn't for functional ware, you'd have no worries. The encapsulated
stains do great at high temps. I've also had great luck with Mayco's
underglazes, Flame red and Dragon red and their Stroke & Coat Hot Tamale
staying bright at cone 10. Good luck.
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