Peter McNamee on tue 22 jun 10
Hello Clayarters
I make burnished smoke-fired ceramic pieces. I use resist techniques and=
=3D
=3D20
some of the smoke marking I produce is quite faint and impressionistic.
I have recently realised that the smoke marks fade over time. A piece ke=
=3D
pt on=3D20
a window sill and thus getting direct sulight significantly faded in less=
=3D
than two=3D20
years.
Some people have said to me that if the work is always kept away from=3D20
sunlight then there will be no fading. Does anyone find that this is tru=
=3D
e or will=3D20
fading occur over long periods of time anyway, even in the absence of sul=
=3D
ight?
I am also investigating the use of sealants to permanently stop fading. =
=3D
I=3D20
would like to know that my work will look the same in ten or twenty years=
=3D
. I=3D20
know you can get sealants which will stop water-colour paints fading. Do=
=3D
es=3D20
anyone know of sealants that will stop smoke marks from fading on ceramic=
=3D
s?
It would be really great to have some help on this issue as it is a big w=
=3D
orry=3D20
that people buying my work will find it deteriorating over time.
James Freeman on tue 22 jun 10
Peter...
I don't have experience with fading smoked pieces, but do have a bit
of experience that may help. One of my sculptural glazes is highly
sensitive to light, fading noticeably if left in a sunny window. A
year ago I began coating such pieces with Krylon "Clear UV", which
comes in a spray can and is available at art supply stores. I have
several pieces so treated that have been sitting in a south facing
window since that time, and they show no sign of fading. Might be
worth a try.
When I was a kid I used to do a bit of custom painting on cars and
motorcycles. One of my tricks was smoked panels. After spraying a
panel or part such as the oil tank and gas tank with a light color,
and while the paint was still wet, I would strike up my acetylene
torch with no oxygen to get a very sooty flame. I would then pass the
sooty flame back and forth over the wet paint, leaving whisps of
carbon on the surface. Once the paint was dry, I would cover coat it
with clear paint or acrylic, and never had a fading problem.
All the best.
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I
should not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
On Tue, Jun 22, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Peter McNamee wrot=
=3D
e:
> Hello Clayarters
>
> I make burnished smoke-fired ceramic pieces. =3DA0I use resist techniques=
a=3D
nd
> some of the smoke marking I produce is quite faint and impressionistic.
>
> I have recently realised that the smoke marks fade over time. =3DA0A piec=
e =3D
kept on
> a window sill and thus getting direct sulight significantly faded in less=
=3D
than two
> years.
>
> Some people have said to me that if the work is always kept away from
> sunlight then there will be no fading. =3DA0Does anyone find that this is=
t=3D
rue or will
> fading occur over long periods of time anyway, even in the absence of sul=
=3D
ight?
>
> I am also investigating the use of sealants to permanently stop fading. =
=3D
=3DA0I
> would like to know that my work will look the same in ten or twenty years=
=3D
. =3DA0I
> know you can get sealants which will stop water-colour paints fading. =3D=
A0=3D
Does
> anyone know of sealants that will stop smoke marks from fading on ceramic=
=3D
s?
>
> It would be really great to have some help on this issue as it is a big w=
=3D
orry
> that people buying my work will find it deteriorating over time.
>
J Motzkin on wed 23 jun 10
Hi Peter,
The temperature and intensity with which you smoke your pots will affect th=
e
staying power of the marks you make.
The black pottery of Mexico and the Southwest doesn't fade. Just carbon,
deeply impregnated into the clay.
I have smoked just about every which way from lightly torching with a bit o=
f
sawdust to saggars and combustibles in a gas kiln. A light torching with
sawdust technique I did many years ago faded away over time. The saggars ar=
e
still bright 25 years later. The black ware, well cooked, is still black.
I don't like acrylic spray on my burnished surfaces. Plastic is plastic,
doesn't feel like clay.
Wax is okay for protection, but I don't think it will prevent fugitive colo=
r
for long.
More info about your technique, kiln, no kiln, temperature reached, if any,
or pictures will help me (or us if anyone out there has time after wading
through the joke kerfuffle) help with your question, though my instinct
says: not hot enough.
Of course you can put your work in a dark closet and let people view it wit=
h
flashlights, or better yet, get it into a museum collection where it is
unlikely to ever see the light of day.
Judy
www.motzkin.com
www.spiritkeeper-urns.com
breadbakers.blogspot.com
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 09:41:04 -0400
From: Peter McNamee
Subject: Fading of Smoke-fired ceramics
Hello Clayarters
I make burnished smoke-fired ceramic pieces. I use resist techniques and=
=3D
=3D20
some of the smoke marking I produce is quite faint and impressionistic.
I have recently realised that the smoke marks fade over time. A piece ke=
=3D
pt on=3D20
a window sill and thus getting direct sulight significantly faded in less=
=3D
than two=3D20
years.
Some people have said to me that if the work is always kept away from=3D20
sunlight then there will be no fading. Does anyone find that this is tru=
=3D
e or will=3D20
fading occur over long periods of time anyway, even in the absence of sul=
=3D
ight?
I am also investigating the use of sealants to permanently stop fading. =
=3D
I=3D20
would like to know that my work will look the same in ten or twenty years=
=3D
. I=3D20
know you can get sealants which will stop water-colour paints fading. Do=
=3D
es=3D20
anyone know of sealants that will stop smoke marks from fading on ceramic=
=3D
s?
It would be really great to have some help on this issue as it is a big w=
=3D
orry=3D20
that people buying my work will find it deteriorating over time.
--
Bonnie Staffel on thu 24 jun 10
I have mentioned this material before, but I have used WeldBond glue =3D
thinned
to skimmed milk consistency to seal and prevent my smoke and pit fired
colors from fading on my pots. It adds no sheen as it soaks into the =3D
soft
fired body.=3D20
My first encounter with fading was with a little copper red raku piece I
purchased many years ago from an accomplished potter. I exhibited it in =3D
my
living room on a high shelf out of light from the windows. In a short =3D
time
the copper red disappeared and became the oxidized green of copper. I =3D
wish I
had the sealer when I purchased this pot. Then when teaching in Denmark, =
=3D
I
introduced smoke firing but didn't have any sealer, so tried neutral =3D
shoe
polish. I found that it changed the body of the pot to an unusual
orange/yellow color. I also used Future floor polish for a while but =3D
didn't
like the false shine it gave the pots. Then I was introduced to =3D
WeldBond.
The WeldBond works like a charm. My disclaimer is that I have no =3D
financial
interest in this product. The large pit fired pitcher shown in Lark Book
"500 Pitchers" sits in my living room in all its still colorful glory =3D
after
several years from its creation.
Bonnie Staffel
http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD=3DA0 Throwing with Coils and Slabs
DVD=3DA0 Introduction to Wheel Work
Charter Member Potters Council
steve graber on fri 25 jun 10
i used a 50-50 mix of futura floor "wax" and water on several raku pieces a=
=3D
nd then=3DA0abused them by leaving several outside in southern california s=
un=3D
and heat and=3DA0weather for several years.=3DA0 they have retained much o=
f th=3D
eir original coloration.=3DA0 the wife stole one to use as a planter....=3D=
A0 i=3D
t's been there now for about 5 years....=3DA0 open shade, morning sun.=3DA0=
=3D0A=3D
=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0Steve Graber, Graber's Pottery, Inc=3D0AClaremont, Californi=
a USA=3D0A=3D
The Steve Tool - for awesome texture on pots! =3D0Awww.graberspottery.com s=
te=3D
ve@graberspottery.com =3D0A=3D0A=3D0AOn Laguna Clay's website=3D0Ahttp://ww=
w.laguna=3D
clay.com/blogs/ =3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A----- Original Message ----=3D0A> From:=
Bonnie St=3D
affel =3D0A> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0A> Sen=
t: T=3D
hu, June 24, 2010 8:11:17 PM=3D0A> Subject: Fading of Smoke-fired ceramics=
=3D0A=3D
> =3D0A> I have mentioned this material before, but I have used WeldBond gl=
ue=3D
=3D0A> thinned=3D0Ato skimmed milk consistency to seal and prevent my smok=
e an=3D
d pit =3D0A> fired=3D0Acolors from fading on my pots. It adds no sheen as i=
t so=3D
aks into the =3D0A> soft=3D0Afired body. =3D0A=3D0AMy first encounter with =
fading w=3D
as with a little =3D0A> copper red raku piece I=3D0Apurchased many years ag=
o fr=3D
om an accomplished potter. =3D0A> I exhibited it in my=3D0Aliving room on a=
hig=3D
h shelf out of light from the =3D0A> windows. In a short time=3D0Athe coppe=
r re=3D
d disappeared and became the oxidized =3D0A> green of copper. I wish I=3D0A=
had =3D
the sealer when I purchased this pot.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
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