William & Susan Schran User on thu 24 jun 10
Have all L&L's, just got two new e28T's at school few months ago, all
working just fine.
How fast are your heating ramps? If the kiln can't keep up with the
programmed ramp you'll get E-1 codes.
If the kiln is in an enclosed space or too close to another kiln that's
firing and the controller goes above 120F, you'll get the code also.
If you'll added this kiln into a room so that there is not good air flow,
that could cause the controller to get too hot.
Hit "review segment" and you'll get a display of the temperature at the
controller.
At school, during the summer, I have to run fans, including a small fan
blowing right on the controller to keep the temperature down around 90F -
100F at the controller.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
On 6/24/10 12:37 PM, "Sawmill Pottery" wrote:
> ~~~~~
> Hi folks,
> Has anyone experienced trouble with new L and L kilns? I've had mine sin=
ce
> Dec of this past year, and I have grown to anxiously enter the studio in =
the
> morning, wondering if I'll once again see the dreaded E-1 code. Rob has s=
ent
> me relays, elements, had me buy a multimeter...he's on my speeddial now. =
He
> keeps asking how I've loaded the kiln, or if it is too hot in the kiln
> room....I've got two other kilns (one skutt, one L&L) and have been firin=
g an
> average of 3 times per week for 7 years. This doesn't happen on those kil=
ns.
> I'm about to take a baseball bat to this kiln.
> Any thoughts? (either on my kiln or on L&L?)
> Thanks,
> Dot Burnworth...frustrated in CT!!
Rob Battey on thu 24 jun 10
Hi Dot and the Clayart Community,
Sometimes parts can fail in a kiln, even in a new one.=3D20
Owning a multimeter so you can check things like elements is just good to=
=3D
know how to do if you own a kiln.=3D20
There are thousands of these Easy-Fire kilns- like Dots- out in the field=
=3D
,
working fine. The design has been tested in many different settings and =
=3D
has
been proven to be solid. That said there are circumstances that exist th=
=3D
at
will make things like relays fail prematurely. With relays, the cause is
usually heat. Heat will cause the electrical amperage rating of component=
=3D
s
to degrade proportional to the amount of heat they are exposed to. The
control box could have heat reflected at it from a wall that is close to =
=3D
it,
or just from having it in a smaller room. The control panel itself is
designed in such a way that heat from the kiln is minimized with a layer =
=3D
of
insulation between the kiln wall and the components as well has lots of
ventilation and a piggy-back design where the main component box is on to=
=3D
p
of a separate element connection box. When there is more than one kiln an=
=3D
d
the other kilns seem to be firing fine, typically the kilns are not being=
=3D
used equally, and the one with the problem gets fired hotter, or the cont=
=3D
rol
box gets more heat reflected at it etc. We often recommend more ventilat=
=3D
ion
of the room and/or adding a fan that can blow air past the kiln's control=
=3D
box. I did recommend to try to cool down the kilns with some external
ventilation but I do not think this has yet been done.
On a new kiln, if there is a problem reported- like an error code, and th=
=3D
e
readings we get from the elements indicate that they could be causing the=
=3D
problem, we usually replace the elements - even if we aren't sure if that=
=3D
is
the problem. The same is true if it seems like a relay is out, or a
thermocouple is reading inaccurately.=3D20
The only way to solve problems is to slog through them logically. There i=
=3D
s
no magic. We do not always figure out what the problem is on the first tr=
=3D
y.
Sometimes we even need to get the entire outer control box back for fact=
=3D
ory
service. It is rare but like in this case- it can happen.=3D20
What is important to point out is that while circumstances like this can =
=3D
be
frustrating, we really are doing everything we can to help figure out why=
=3D
this kiln is having these problems when so few others are, and we are doi=
=3D
ng
it as quickly as possible.=3D20
As a note to the community, Dot is mailing her kiln's outer control box b=
=3D
ack
to us today. This is a very easy 5-minute procedure to remove the box fr=
=3D
om
the kiln and any panel repairs get top priority so the down time is minim=
=3D
al.=3D20
Anyone reading this please feel free to contact me directly for any help =
=3D
you
need with your L&L Kiln.
Best Regards,
Robert Battey
Technical Sales and Support
L&L Kiln Mfg Inc.
800-259-1423 X 106
541-385-8025 fax
rob@hotkilns.com
www.hotkilns.com
Sawmill Pottery on thu 24 jun 10
~~~~~
Hi folks,
Has anyone experienced trouble with new L and L kilns? I've had mine since=
Dec of this past year, and I have grown to anxiously enter the studio in t=
he morning, wondering if I'll once again see the dreaded E-1 code. Rob has =
sent me relays, elements, had me buy a multimeter...he's on my speeddial no=
w. He keeps asking how I've loaded the kiln, or if it is too hot in the kil=
n room....I've got two other kilns (one skutt, one L&L) and have been firin=
g an average of 3 times per week for 7 years. This doesn't happen on those =
kilns.
I'm about to take a baseball bat to this kiln.
Any thoughts? (either on my kiln or on L&L?)
Thanks,
Dot Burnworth...frustrated in CT!!
Arnold Howard on thu 24 jun 10
From: "Sawmill Pottery"
> I'm about to take a baseball bat to this kiln.
> Any thoughts? (either on my kiln or on L&L?)
> Thanks,
> Dot Burnworth...frustrated in CT!!
What is the kiln doing? Have you tried firing it in single
zone mode? Are you sure the thermocouples are wired
correctly?
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Fred Parker on sat 26 jun 10
Hi Dot. This is a "for what it's worth" posting. Might be useless. Mig=
=3D
ht
help...
About three years ago I bought a new L&L 23" kiln. After setting it =3D
up I
kept getting the error code that triggers when one of the zones is
significantly hotter/cooler than another in the downfire segment. I don'=
=3D
t
remember the code designation.
I contacted Rob, who was more than patient and willing to do whatever it
took to get it fixed. After several unsuccessful attempts and adjustment=
=3D
s
he was about to replace the entire controller. By then I was getting tir=
=3D
ed
of fooling with it and was beginning to question my decision to go with L=
=3D
&L.
Around the same time I managed to get over to Atlanta and pick up some n=
=3D
ew
shelves. I had been using my old shelves from my old burned-out Skutt 23=
=3D
"
kiln. The only difference was my new L&L had 3" walls where my old S=3D
kutt
had 2-1/2" walls. This made the old shelves fit very tightly -- almost t=
=3D
oo
tightly to put into place in the new 3" walled kiln. During the downfire=
=3D
segment when I was maximizing cooling rate (-9999) with the tight fit the=
=3D
top zone was cooling faster than the sealed-in middle zone and that was
triggering the error. With the new shelves the problem went away.
I don't think I ever told Rob about this, so if you're reading this, Rob,=
=3D
I
apologize for not relaying the info to you earlier.
Anyway, I have fired the kiln many, many times since then and never had a=
=3D
ny
problems. I love the kiln and it really does look the same inside today =
=3D
as
it did the day I did the first test firing. I probably shouldn't admit i=
=3D
t,
but I rarely ever use guide cones any more. That might come back to bite=
=3D
me
sometime, but for now my L&L is a sweet firing machine. I would (and=3D
have)
recommended the brand to many others.
Fred Parker=3D20
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 09:37:26 -0700, Sawmill Pottery =3D
OM>
wrote:
> ~~~~~
>Hi folks,
>Has anyone experienced trouble with new L and L kilns? I've had mine si=
=3D
nce
Dec of this past year, and I have grown to anxiously enter the studio in =
=3D
the
morning, wondering if I'll once again see the dreaded E-1 code. Rob has s=
=3D
ent
me relays, elements, had me buy a multimeter...he's on my speeddial now. =
=3D
He
keeps asking how I've loaded the kiln, or if it is too hot in the kiln
room....I've got two other kilns (one skutt, one L&L) and have been f=3D
iring
an average of 3 times per week for 7 years. This doesn't happen on those =
=3D
kilns.
>I'm about to take a baseball bat to this kiln.
>Any thoughts? (either on my kiln or on L&L?)
>Thanks,
>Dot Burnworth...frustrated in CT!!
Floyd Hale on sun 11 jul 10
Dot,
I had a similar problem with my Paragon Viking kiln. After much trial an=
=3D
d
error, it turned out that the electronic controller panel was getting
interference via its contact with the kiln's metal exterior itself. The
problem cleared up when Paragon sent me special "insulating grommets" to
attach the controller panel to the metal surface of the kiln's side box.
Floyd Hale
________________
Hi folks,
Has anyone experienced trouble with new L and L kilns? I've had mine sin=
=3D
ce
Dec of this past year, and I have grown to anxiously enter the studio in =
=3D
the
morning, wondering if I'll once again see the dreaded E-1 code. Rob has s=
=3D
ent
me relays, elements, had me buy a multimeter...he's on my speeddial now. =
=3D
He
keeps asking how I've loaded the kiln, or if it is too hot in the kiln
room....I've got two other kilns (one skutt, one L&L) and have been f=3D
iring
an average of 3 times per week for 7 years. This doesn't happen on those =
=3D
kilns.
I'm about to take a baseball bat to this kiln.
Any thoughts? (either on my kiln or on L&L?)
Thanks,
Dot Burnworth...frustrated in CT!!
Vince Pitelka on sun 11 jul 10
Eric Hansen wrote:
"I'd be interested in knowing if these kilns are assembled at the factory o=
r
if it is outsourced to the kiln distributor, AS IT USED TO BE. I keep
hearing negative feedback that usually traces back to bad parts, bad
assembly, or both, and no system to trouble-shoot except start buying parts
and try this, or try that. I need to get a new kiln but I'm very reluctant
to buy one. I may have to build a gas kiln instead."
Hi Eric -
I am jumping into this conversation, so I hope I didn't miss something
important. Are you asking specifically about L&L? If so, I would be
interested in hearing about this "negative feedback" that you "keep
hearing." I know that sometimes I sound like a booster for L&L, and I
suppose I am, willingly. We used L&Ls at U-Mass Amherst when I was there i=
n
the 80s, we used them at NDSU in Fargo, and for the past 16 years we have
used L&Ls exclusively for our electrics at the Appalachian Center for Craft=
.
All I can say is that the performance and service has been superb throughou=
t
that time. With the old-style manual kilns we had the standard maintenance
issues with kiln sitters, sensor tubes, cone holders, etc. but we really
have had no problems at all with our L&Ls since the conversion to
programmables over the past eight years.
I know that the devotion many people have to Paragon and Skutt is well
justified. They are great kilns too, but for various reasons I have
preferred L&Ls.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Eric Hansen on sun 11 jul 10
I'd be interested in knowing if these kilns are assembled at the factory or
if it is outsourced to the kiln distributor, AS IT USED TO BE. I keep
hearing negative feedback that usually traces back to bad parts, bad
assembly, or both, and no system to trouble-shoot except start buying parts
and try this, or try that. I need to get a new kiln but I'm very reluctant
to buy one. I may have to build a gas kiln instead.
h a n s e n
On Sun, Jul 11, 2010 at 1:07 AM, Floyd Hale wrote:
> Dot,
>
> I had a similar problem with my Paragon Viking kiln. After much trial an=
d
> error, it turned out that the electronic controller panel was getting
> interference via its contact with the kiln's metal exterior itself. The
> problem cleared up when Paragon sent me special "insulating grommets" to
> attach the controller panel to the metal surface of the kiln's side box.
>
> Floyd Hale
>
> ________________
>
> Hi folks,
> Has anyone experienced trouble with new L and L kilns? I've had mine sin=
ce
> Dec of this past year, and I have grown to anxiously enter the studio in
> the
> morning, wondering if I'll once again see the dreaded E-1 code. Rob has
> sent
> me relays, elements, had me buy a multimeter...he's on my speeddial now. =
He
> keeps asking how I've loaded the kiln, or if it is too hot in the kiln
> room....I've got two other kilns (one skutt, one L&L) and have been firin=
g
> an average of 3 times per week for 7 years. This doesn't happen on those
> kilns.
> I'm about to take a baseball bat to this kiln.
> Any thoughts? (either on my kiln or on L&L?)
> Thanks,
> Dot Burnworth...frustrated in CT!!
>
--
Eric Alan Hansen
Stonehouse Studio Pottery
Alexandria, Virginia
americanpotter.blogspot.com
thesuddenschool.blogspot.com
hansencookbook.blogspot.com
"To me, human life in all its forms, individual and aggregate, is a
perpetual wonder: the flora of the earth and sea is full of beauty and of
mystery which seeks science to understand; the fauna of land and ocean is
not less wonderful; the world which holds them both, and the great universe
that folds it in on everyside, are still more wonderful, complex, and
attractive to the contemplating mind." - Theodore Parker, minister,
transcendentalist, abolitionist (1810-1860)
Floyd Hale on sun 11 jul 10
Just to be clear, after getting the "controller interference" issue fixed=
=3D
, I have=3D20
been very happy with my Paragon Viking kiln. I did receive very attentiv=
=3D
e tech=3D20
support from Paragon also, so I wouldn't want anyone to be discouraged fr=
=3D
om=3D20
using the kiln.
Floyd Hale
_____________________________
I'd be interested in knowing if these kilns are assembled at the factory =
=3D
or
if it is outsourced to the kiln distributor, AS IT USED TO BE. I keep
hearing negative feedback that usually traces back to bad parts, bad
assembly, or both, and no system to trouble-shoot except start buying par=
=3D
ts
and try this, or try that. I need to get a new kiln but I'm very reluctan=
=3D
t
to buy one. I may have to build a gas kiln instead.
h a n s e n
____________________________
On Sun, Jul 11, 2010 at 1:07 AM, Floyd Hale wrote=
=3D
:
> Dot,
>
> I had a similar problem with my Paragon Viking kiln. After much trial =
=3D
and
> error, it turned out that the electronic controller panel was getting
> interference via its contact with the kiln's metal exterior itself. Th=
=3D
e
> problem cleared up when Paragon sent me special "insulating grommets" t=
=3D
o
> attach the controller panel to the metal surface of the kiln's side box=
=3D
.
>
> Floyd Hale
>
> ________________
>
> Hi folks,
> Has anyone experienced trouble with new L and L kilns? I've had mine s=
=3D
ince
> Dec of this past year, and I have grown to anxiously enter the studio i=
=3D
n
> the
> morning, wondering if I'll once again see the dreaded E-1 code. Rob has=
=3D
> sent
> me relays, elements, had me buy a multimeter...he's on my speeddial now=
=3D
. He
> keeps asking how I've loaded the kiln, or if it is too hot in the kiln
> room....I've got two other kilns (one skutt, one L&L) and have been=3D
firing
> an average of 3 times per week for 7 years. This doesn't happen on thos=
=3D
e
> kilns.
> I'm about to take a baseball bat to this kiln.
> Any thoughts? (either on my kiln or on L&L?)
> Thanks,
> Dot Burnworth...frustrated in CT!!
Arnold Howard on mon 12 jul 10
From: "Eric Hansen"
> I'd be interested in knowing if these kilns are assembled
> at the factory or
> if it is outsourced to the kiln distributor, AS IT USED TO
> BE. I keep
> hearing negative feedback that usually traces back to bad
> parts, bad
> assembly, or both, and no system to trouble-shoot except
> start buying parts
> and try this, or try that.
--------------
Our kilns are made in Mesquite, Texas. Troubleshooting is
done by distributors and over the phone by customer service
reps at the factory. Electric kilns are fairly simple to
diagnose.
I agree with you that parts should not be replaced without
proper troubleshooting. For that we often depend on the
multimeter. Here is a short instructional video on the
ammeter, ohmmeter, and voltmeter:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DUsDdQaIO7FI
http://www.paragonweb.com/VideoInfo.cfm?VID=3D53
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Eleanora Eden on mon 12 jul 10
I have a small fan from Radio Shack installed permanently right on
the control box. I think it makes a lot of difference and I highly
recommend that.
I have long believed that the little bayonet clips that connect the kiln
elements to the control box are the achilles heel of the kiln. I do wish
they would build them with a sturdier connection. Just had one burn
out.....again. It is the most common problem with the kiln in my experienc=
e.
That said, I am still happily firing my kiln that I bought about 15 years =
ago.
Eleanora
>
>At school, during the summer, I have to run fans, including a small fan
>blowing right on the controller to keep the temperature down around 90F -
>100F at the controller.
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
Eric Hansen on mon 12 jul 10
> Thanks Arnold: wow instruction videos! have to check that out!
> h a n s e n
>
> On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 12:17 PM, Arnold Howard w=
rote:
>
>> From: "Eric Hansen"
>>
>> I'd be interested in knowing if these kilns are assembled
>>> at the factory or
>>> if it is outsourced to the kiln distributor, AS IT USED TO
>>> BE. I keep
>>> hearing negative feedback that usually traces back to bad
>>> parts, bad
>>> assembly, or both, and no system to trouble-shoot except
>>> start buying parts
>>> and try this, or try that.
>>>
>> --------------
>> Our kilns are made in Mesquite, Texas. Troubleshooting is
>> done by distributors and over the phone by customer service
>> reps at the factory. Electric kilns are fairly simple to
>> diagnose.
>>
>> I agree with you that parts should not be replaced without
>> proper troubleshooting. For that we often depend on the
>> multimeter. Here is a short instructional video on the
>> ammeter, ohmmeter, and voltmeter:
>>
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DUsDdQaIO7FI
>>
>> http://www.paragonweb.com/VideoInfo.cfm?VID=3D53
>>
>> Sincerely,
>>
>> Arnold Howard
>> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
>> ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
>>
>
>
> --
Eric Alan Hansen
Stonehouse Studio Pottery
Alexandria, Virginia
americanpotter.blogspot.com
thesuddenschool.blogspot.com
hansencookbook.blogspot.com
"To me, human life in all its forms, individual and aggregate, is a
perpetual wonder: the flora of the earth and sea is full of beauty and of
mystery which seeks science to understand; the fauna of land and ocean is
not less wonderful; the world which holds them both, and the great universe
that folds it in on everyside, are still more wonderful, complex, and
attractive to the contemplating mind." - Theodore Parker, minister,
transcendentalist, abolitionist (1810-1860)
Eric Hansen on mon 12 jul 10
Thanks Arnold: wow instruction videos! have to check that out!
h a n s e n
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 12:17 PM, Arnold Howard wro=
te:
> From: "Eric Hansen"
>
> I'd be interested in knowing if these kilns are assembled
>> at the factory or
>> if it is outsourced to the kiln distributor, AS IT USED TO
>> BE. I keep
>> hearing negative feedback that usually traces back to bad
>> parts, bad
>> assembly, or both, and no system to trouble-shoot except
>> start buying parts
>> and try this, or try that.
>>
> --------------
> Our kilns are made in Mesquite, Texas. Troubleshooting is
> done by distributors and over the phone by customer service
> reps at the factory. Electric kilns are fairly simple to
> diagnose.
>
> I agree with you that parts should not be replaced without
> proper troubleshooting. For that we often depend on the
> multimeter. Here is a short instructional video on the
> ammeter, ohmmeter, and voltmeter:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DUsDdQaIO7FI
>
> http://www.paragonweb.com/VideoInfo.cfm?VID=3D53
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
>
--
Eric Alan Hansen
Stonehouse Studio Pottery
Alexandria, Virginia
americanpotter.blogspot.com
thesuddenschool.blogspot.com
hansencookbook.blogspot.com
"To me, human life in all its forms, individual and aggregate, is a
perpetual wonder: the flora of the earth and sea is full of beauty and of
mystery which seeks science to understand; the fauna of land and ocean is
not less wonderful; the world which holds them both, and the great universe
that folds it in on everyside, are still more wonderful, complex, and
attractive to the contemplating mind." - Theodore Parker, minister,
transcendentalist, abolitionist (1810-1860)
Eric Hansen on mon 12 jul 10
Vince: Thanks. Well, the ceramics discussion groups are often where people
come for advice so I do read about many malfunctioning kilns on the lists. =
I
have an older L&L and it runs fine for me.
h a n s e n
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 12:46 AM, Vince Pitelka wrote=
:
> Eric Hansen wrote:
> "I'd be interested in knowing if these kilns are assembled at the factory
> or
> if it is outsourced to the kiln distributor, AS IT USED TO BE. I keep
> hearing negative feedback that usually traces back to bad parts, bad
> assembly, or both, and no system to trouble-shoot except start buying par=
ts
> and try this, or try that. I need to get a new kiln but I'm very reluctan=
t
> to buy one. I may have to build a gas kiln instead."
>
> Hi Eric -
> I am jumping into this conversation, so I hope I didn't miss something
> important. Are you asking specifically about L&L? If so, I would be
> interested in hearing about this "negative feedback" that you "keep
> hearing." I know that sometimes I sound like a booster for L&L, and I
> suppose I am, willingly. We used L&Ls at U-Mass Amherst when I was there
> in
> the 80s, we used them at NDSU in Fargo, and for the past 16 years we have
> used L&Ls exclusively for our electrics at the Appalachian Center for
> Craft.
> All I can say is that the performance and service has been superb
> throughout
> that time. With the old-style manual kilns we had the standard maintenan=
ce
> issues with kiln sitters, sensor tubes, cone holders, etc. but we really
> have had no problems at all with our L&Ls since the conversion to
> programmables over the past eight years.
>
> I know that the devotion many people have to Paragon and Skutt is well
> justified. They are great kilns too, but for various reasons I have
> preferred L&Ls.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft
> Tennessee Tech University
> vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
>
--
Eric Alan Hansen
Stonehouse Studio Pottery
Alexandria, Virginia
americanpotter.blogspot.com
thesuddenschool.blogspot.com
hansencookbook.blogspot.com
"To me, human life in all its forms, individual and aggregate, is a
perpetual wonder: the flora of the earth and sea is full of beauty and of
mystery which seeks science to understand; the fauna of land and ocean is
not less wonderful; the world which holds them both, and the great universe
that folds it in on everyside, are still more wonderful, complex, and
attractive to the contemplating mind." - Theodore Parker, minister,
transcendentalist, abolitionist (1810-1860)
Arnold Howard on mon 12 jul 10
From: "Eleanora Eden"
>I have a small fan from Radio Shack installed permanently
>right on
> the control box. I think it makes a lot of difference and
> I highly
> recommend that.
>
> I have long believed that the little bayonet clips that
> connect the kiln
> elements to the control box are the achilles heel of the
> kiln.
---------
A 4" fan does wonders in lowering the kiln's control box
temperature during the summer--especially if you are firing
more than one kiln in the room.
I like the barrel element connectors, because they are easy
to install. You can get them really tight with a small 1/4"
ratchet or box-end wrench and Vice Grips.
When changing elements, it is important to tighten the
connectors to specifications. Loose element connectors can
burn out. They also reduce the element's amperage slightly.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
MJ on mon 12 jul 10
Hi - could you post a picture of how you mounted the fan? Also, what is th=
e
fan made of - I would be concerned about it getting too hot. Is it all
metal? Did you insulate the cord somehow?
I live in Phoenix and my kiln is outside. I used a fan to keep the board
temperature down but did not do that during winter or spring. Your idea
sounds like a good plan.
thx, MJ
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 11:29 AM, Eleanora Eden wrote=
:
> I have a small fan from Radio Shack installed permanently right on
> the control box. I think it makes a lot of difference and I highly
> recommend that.
>
> I have long believed that the little bayonet clips that connect the kiln
> elements to the control box are the achilles heel of the kiln. I do wish
> they would build them with a sturdier connection. Just had one burn
> out.....again. It is the most common problem with the kiln in my
> experience.
>
> That said, I am still happily firing my kiln that I bought about 15 year=
s
> ago.
>
> Eleanora
>
>
>
>
> >
> >At school, during the summer, I have to run fans, including a small fan
> >blowing right on the controller to keep the temperature down around 90F =
-
> >100F at the controller.
>
> --
> Bellows Falls Vermont
> www.eleanoraeden.com
>
Eric Hansen on tue 13 jul 10
Again, this reinforces my more negative feelings about electric kiln design=
.
I want to be a believer but it isn't that easy. If they need fans, like my
computer does, why isn't it built in? duh -
h a n s e n
p.s. if this were truly industrial equipment the word "LOSER" would come to
mind, but since it is only "craft" it's okay, right?
(p.p.s I guess I have to thank Dayton Grant for the "creative" use of
quotation marks, "right?")
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 3:23 PM, MJ wrote:
> Hi - could you post a picture of how you mounted the fan? Also, what is
> the
> fan made of - I would be concerned about it getting too hot. Is it all
> metal? Did you insulate the cord somehow?
>
> I live in Phoenix and my kiln is outside. I used a fan to keep the board
> temperature down but did not do that during winter or spring. Your idea
> sounds like a good plan.
>
> thx, MJ
>
> On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 11:29 AM, Eleanora Eden
> wrote:
>
> > I have a small fan from Radio Shack installed permanently right on
> > the control box. I think it makes a lot of difference and I highly
> > recommend that.
> >
> > I have long believed that the little bayonet clips that connect the kil=
n
> > elements to the control box are the achilles heel of the kiln. I do wi=
sh
> > they would build them with a sturdier connection. Just had one burn
> > out.....again. It is the most common problem with the kiln in my
> > experience.
> >
> > That said, I am still happily firing my kiln that I bought about 15
> years
> > ago.
> >
> > Eleanora
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >At school, during the summer, I have to run fans, including a small fa=
n
> > >blowing right on the controller to keep the temperature down around 90=
F
> -
> > >100F at the controller.
> >
> > --
> > Bellows Falls Vermont
> > www.eleanoraeden.com
> >
>
--
Eric Alan Hansen
Stonehouse Studio Pottery
Alexandria, Virginia
americanpotter.blogspot.com
thesuddenschool.blogspot.com
hansencookbook.blogspot.com
"To me, human life in all its forms, individual and aggregate, is a
perpetual wonder: the flora of the earth and sea is full of beauty and of
mystery which seeks science to understand; the fauna of land and ocean is
not less wonderful; the world which holds them both, and the great universe
that folds it in on everyside, are still more wonderful, complex, and
attractive to the contemplating mind." - Theodore Parker, minister,
transcendentalist, abolitionist (1810-1860)
L TURNER on tue 13 jul 10
If the room is too hot for the electronics on the kiln (158F ), it is
also too hot for the potter and the proper solution is to increase the
ventilation of the kiln room.
L. Turner
The Woodlands, TX
Arnold Howard on tue 13 jul 10
From: "Eric Hansen"
> Again, this reinforces my more negative feelings about
> electric kiln design.
> I want to be a believer but it isn't that easy. If they
> need fans, like my
> computer does, why isn't it built in? duh -
--------------
Kilns don't come with an internal fan because dust would
accumulate inside the switch box. That would cause parts to
overheat and fail prematurely.
Many kiln models have enormous switch boxes to keep parts
cooler, and a double heat shield between the kiln and switch
box. This works so well that controllers can be mounted in
the top now instead of lower where the box is cooler.
In most environments, the kiln control panel stays well
within the recommended operating temperature. (For
controllers, 32 - 158F measured inside the switch box.)
The ambient room temperature gets high during the summer
time especially when several kilns are firing in the same
room. That is when fans are handy.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Steve Slatin on thu 15 jul 10
Just FWIW --
I have a fairly modern electric kiln (L&L, Easyfire,
from the period right before the change in the diameter
of the element holders) and it has taken a fairly
steady line of use -- up to 4 firings a week, many
tests with odd results (spitting glazes, bisque
explosions with extra-fast ramps, etc.) and so on.
It does not have a cooling fan, but it doesn't
need one -- the standoff of the controller from the
body of the kiln is sufficient. The controller
board (I can check with a non-contact thermometer)
and box doesn't go to the rated maximum temp.
Are there people with the same kiln who need
to add a fan? Yes, I'm sure there are. If you=3D20
have several kilns in the same room and limited
air circulation, you'd better have one. Or a=3D20
small firing room. Or something similar.
The same applies to my computer -- and its printer.
My little Samsung laser printer has never -- NEVER --
given me the slightest problem. The mechanism
has worked perfectly for years, and the only
maintenance it gets it twice a year or so I
dust it. =3D20
But it will probably last until the technology
is taken over by another whole new thing. =3D20
So will my electric kiln. =3D20
I am on my 4th set of elements and just purchased
my 3rd set of thermocouples; I have had to replace
two of the connector (they have a bayonet attachmen t
at the ends) wires. (I have a list of things to do,
at some point I'm going to get a whole new set of
connecting wires.)
I'm sure if I were in a high-productivity=3D20
environment, this type of kiln wouldn't be enough,
but in the environment I have, it's more than=3D20
sufficient. Not everyone needs an (expensive)
industrial grade piece of equipment.
Steve Slatin --=3D20
--- On Tue, 7/13/10, Eric Hansen wrote:
> Again, this reinforces my more
> negative feelings about electric kiln design.
> I want to be a believer but it isn't that easy. If they
> need fans, like my
> computer does, why isn't it built in? duh -
> h=3DA0 a=3DA0 n=3DA0 s=3DA0 e=3DA0 n
> p.s. if this were truly industrial equipment the word
> "LOSER" would come to
> mind, but since it is only "craft" it's okay, right?
> (p.p.s I guess I have to thank Dayton Grant for the
> "creative" use of
> quotation marks, "right?")
>=3D20
=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
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