Jennifer W. May on fri 2 jan 98
Help! I have a small, portable wheel that does not have holes/pins to attach
a bat.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to attach a bat? I have tried
using wads of wet clay, but the bat slides. I have tried duct-tape, but it
gets wet and falls off.
Do I need to go ahead and have holes drilled?
Thanks for your help, and a Happy 1998 to all....
Jennifer
GURUSHAKTI on fri 2 jan 98
Dear Jennifer:
Just take a ball of clay large enough to cover the wheel head for the size of
bat you want to use, and center and form a flat plate about 3/8" thick on the
wheel head. Then take the three middle fingers and press on the clay with the
wheel going. This will create grooves in that flat plate which which will help
your bats adhere. Then moisten your bat lightly and place on top of this plate
and pound down with you fist. This will adhere the bat to the clay patty. Then
throw your pot and when finished just lift up the bat using your tool of
choice. The flat plate that you threw can be used repeatedly. You may want to
refresh the grooves periodically. Then when you're done throwing just use a
nice wide scraper to lift up the plate and put it in your scrap clay.
Your other alternative is to buy a new wheel head if your wheel will take a
current model which is already drilled, or you can find someone to drill holes
in the wheel to match pre-drilled bats.
Good luck.
June
Cindy on sat 3 jan 98
Jenny,
Throw a small "plate" without a rim--just a pancake, really--make the
finger grooves fairly pronounced. Slap your bat onto that. It should be
somewhat moist, as level as possible, and reasonably close to the center.
You're ready to throw.
Cindy in Custer, SD
A.D. on sat 3 jan 98
well when I was making large bowls and needed to use a really large bat
what I did was put about a half inch layer of clay onto the wheel head and
then turned it made it all smooth then took a trimming tool and put grooves
into the clay. I was told that this would cause are to be trapped in the
grooves and make a vacume if you tryed to pull it off the wheel head. So
far I have had no problems with it slipping and sliding.
sirius@inetarena.com
http://www.inetarena.com/~sirius
>Help! I have a small, portable wheel that does not have holes/pins to attach
>a bat.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to attach a bat? I have tried
>using wads of wet clay, but the bat slides. I have tried duct-tape, but it
>gets wet and falls off.
>
>Do I need to go ahead and have holes drilled?
>
>Thanks for your help, and a Happy 1998 to all....
>
>Jennifer
>
>
DEBBYGrant on sat 3 jan 98
Dear Jennifer,
Your problem is easily solved. Take a small amount of clay and throw
it on the wheel head. Spread it out like a very thin plate so that there
would be no bottom if you were to cut it off. Then, with the wheel
turning score it with the point of a wooden tool. Now take your bat
which should be plaster by the way and place it on the spread out
clay and give it a few slaps with your hand. It will not move around
after that. When you want to remove it pry it up with a spatula, wet
the clay plate again and place the next bat on it. I have never
done this with anything but plaster but I think it should work with
particle board as well.
Good luck, Debby Grant in NH
Cheryl L Litman on sat 3 jan 98
I've attached pressed board and plaster bats by taking a small handful of
clay, centering it on the wheel, pressing it down and outward to cover
the base of the wheel as if you were going to make a plate (about 1/2" -
1" thick), putting some deep grooves in it by drawing your finger outward
- you end up with spirals, then plunking the bat down on top and pressing
it on as well as giving it a bit of a "twist" to secure it. If the clay
is fairly moist, the suction holds the bat on quite well. Use a fork or
J-tool to lever the bat off when you're done. The same wad of clay can
be used quite a number of times before it has to be replaced, just redo
the spiral grooves each time.
Hope this is clear?
Cheryl Litman
Somerset, NJ
email: cheryllitman@juno.com
On Fri, 2 Jan 1998 12:13:48 EST "Jennifer W. May"
writes:
>----------------------------Original
>message----------------------------
>Help! I have a small, portable wheel that does not have holes/pins to
>attach
>a bat.
>
>Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to attach a bat? I have
>tried
>using wads of wet clay, but the bat slides. I have tried duct-tape,
>but it
>gets wet and falls off.
>
>Do I need to go ahead and have holes drilled?
>
>Thanks for your help, and a Happy 1998 to all....
>
>Jennifer
>
Clfoot on sat 3 jan 98
jennifer the easiest way to attach the bats is to throw a pad of clay on the
center of the wheel head approximatly 3/4 the size of the bat you wish to use
, take a rib smooth the clay into a uniform pad then make concentric circles
starting in the center or alternativly mark an X across the surface dampen
your bat and press onto pad ,should work everytime.
goodluck , Pots
Clayphil on sat 3 jan 98
>Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to attach a bat?
Hi Jennifer,
There several methods to hold bats in place. The one I use most is simply
throwning a flat "pad" the approx size of your bat. make an * pattern with a
loop tool on the pad, center the bat on the pad and off you go. Use your wire
to cut off the pot first and then cut off the bat from the pad. I throw a 1/2
to 3/4 inch pad which will last most of the day. There are pictures
/descriptions of this in several books, that Warren Mackenzie book, I believe
has a picture.
There is also a Japense method (different bat concept) described in Inside
Japenese Ceramics. This works well, too. I use this for bigger bats. . These
are both probably 5,000 year old methods and pretty low tech, so they have
withstood the test of time. Batt pins might have some merit but I have never
used them, personally. And I have been thrwing pots for nearly 5,000 years.
Phil in Chicago
Figred on sat 3 jan 98
My art instructor taught us to throw a wad of clay and just lay it right on
the wheelhead. Cover the entire wheelhead and then place bat on.
Sharon Clayton on sat 3 jan 98
Throw a flat circle of clay on the wheelhead. Then make grooves while the
wheelhead is moving at approx one inch intervals. This will give suction to
the bat. make sure the clay is not too wet. Centre the bat as best you can
and give it a good solid hit. Let the wheel's speed increase slowly to
ensure bat is attached, then throw on the bat. Beware though, the bat may
fly off. If you give it a good solid hit, though, it usually stays on no
problem. Use a scraper or screwdriver to pry up the bat. Leave the circle
of clay on, just redo the grooves, add another bat and off you go again.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.UKY.EDU]On Behalf
Of Jennifer W. May
Sent: Friday, January 02, 1998 12:14 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Attaching bats to wheelhead
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Help! I have a small, portable wheel that does not have holes/pins to attach
a bat.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to attach a bat? I have tried
using wads of wet clay, but the bat slides. I have tried duct-tape, but it
gets wet and falls off.
Do I need to go ahead and have holes drilled?
Thanks for your help, and a Happy 1998 to all....
Jennifer
JewelPots on sun 4 jan 98
Hi Jennifer
This one is much easier than you think! Take a ball of wedged clay, about the
size you would use for a plate. Center it on the wheel, just as if you were
going to throw something, and flatten it out like a plate, but flatten it all
the way out, (we call this a "cookie".) Keep spinning the wheel and drag your
finger from the center through the outer edge making a fairly deep spirial.
Your done. Now just press the bat down on the cookie and start throwing. The
bat can be lifted off and another one put on over and over till you're through
for the day. If fact, a quick trip to the hardware store might be a good
idea. Cheap bats! Get a sheet of double sided masonite. Ask them to cut it
for you. Six inch squares for smaller work, eight inch for medium, ten for
larger, or whatever you want. These little squares pop onto the cookie
easily, pop off, and don't take up much room when shelving pots for drying
(you can put the edges of one bat on the one next to it, the next one under,
snuggle them up close.) Hope this helps!
Nancy in Denver, where the lovely, quieting effects of January are settling
in.
JewelPots@aol.com
Tim Stowell on sun 4 jan 98
An easy way to attach bats to the wheelhead is to use aproximately a lb
of clay and throw a platter form with no rim directly on the surface of
the wheel the same diameter as your bat. It should be between 1/4" and
1/2" thick ( closer to 1/2" is better). Using your favorite digit create
two or three concentric circles at least an inch wide in the clay,
creating a bullseye pattern of wheelhead and clay the diameter of you
bat - making sure that the center of the bat and theouter rim are
supported by clay. The indentations provide an incredible amount of
suction. I can't say a bat never flies, but, it works for me.
Tim
Tim Stowell Gerard Stowell Pottery
Stacey Gerard 290 River Street
tstwll@juno.com Troy, NY 12180
(518)272-0983
Paul Lewing on sun 4 jan 98
Several people have responded to this thread with the suggestion that
you throw a thin layer of clay on your wheelhead, score it, and then
pound the bat down on it. This will indeed work, but I'd like to
inject a word of caution.
Don't pound the bat down with your hand or fist. Use a rubber mallet.
Take it from the voice of experience, years of pounding bats down will
ruin your elbow.
Paul Lewing, Seattle
Vince Pitelka on sun 4 jan 98
Jenny -
The posts about using a thrown "cookie" or "pancake" (a flat "plate" of
clay) on the wheel are right on the mark. If you do not have bat pins, this
is the best way to affix a bat to the wheel. One thing which has not been
mentioned, however, is the importance of having the "cookie" perfectly
level, or even slightly lower in the center. If it is even slightly convex
it will not work. The finger grooves work best if they spiral out from the
center. That way, when you use a screwdriver (or whatever) to pry the bat
off, air can enter through the spiral grooves. As mentioned in other posts,
the "cookie" can be reused for many bats, but it will work best if you renew
the finger grooves after every six or eight bats.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
David Hendley on mon 5 jan 98
Since about 2 dozen people detailed attatching bats
with a 'cookie' of clay, I thought I'd re-post the how-to
of my bat system, in reply to Tony Clennell last summer,
just for some variety.
I also use the 'cookie' method for my little 6" dia. bats,
but for larger ones, it's worth the afternoon of work to
set this up.
I use particleboard sink cutouts, which, by the way, do NOT
need to have the particleboard bottoms and sides sealed.
Mine are still fine after 20+ years.
When using masonite bats, screw from the TOP, through the
bat, into the cleat.
>Tony,
>My bat system is perfect for big pot additions.
>And, like most everything else I have, was practically free.
>I got formica covered plywood or particle board "sink cutouts" from a
cabinet shop.
>They are about 18" diameter, already round, cut for a bathroom sink.
>Center the cut-out on your wheelhead, then, with the wheel slowly turning,
>draw the wheelhead diameter on the bottom.
>Add 3 3" long 1 by 2 cleats, screwed and glued, equally spaced around the
line.
>
>No bat pins!
>Just set the bat on the wheel, push down, and it's tight.
>I have been using this system for more than 20 years.
>Haven't used a bat pin in 20 years.
>In the 70's I paid 25 cents each for the cut outs.
>They might be up to a dollar today.
>
>I saw the (in)famous Giffen Grip for the first time recently
>and noticed that the Grip is held on to the wheelhead using the same idea.
>
>Over the years some of the bats became a little loose....
>No big deal.
>Just glue a piece of shirt cardboard or thin piece of wood veneer
>on the inside surface of
>one of the cleats and you're tight again.
>I have bats so old that the formica has been worn off to the
>brown color base.
>Still great. Never even a hint of warping.
>The one drawback:
>More storage space is required since, with the cleats,
>each bat is 2" thick.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
See David Hendley's Pottery Page at
http://www.sosis.com/hendley/david/
Don Jones on mon 5 jan 98
This may seem a bit crude but when I was a student we just grabbed small
handful of slurry out of the bucket and spread it around the wheel head.
Take your moistened bat and rotate it around the wheehead until it sticks.
This works MOST of the time.
Don Jones
claysky@highfiber.com
:-) implied in all messages and replies
http://highfiber.com/~claysky
Richard Aerni on mon 5 jan 98
Many have suggested throwing a clay pancake and then scoring for suction
of the bat to the pancake. This will work, but let me suggest another
way, which works better if you intend to put the bat back on the wheel,
and do more work on the piece after it has dried a bit. It will also
probably save you lots of time over the long haul, since you won't have
to be throwing pancakes, scraping them off after an hour, and then
throwing another one, scraping it off, throwing another one, etc...
Just go to the hardware store, and get (I think they're called)
two machine screws, which are threaded on the shaft, and have a round
cylindrical head with a hole in the top to accept a hex head driver and
a couple of wing nuts to fit on the shaft, with lock washers for all.
Then go and get a hardened drill bit the same size as the shaft of the
screw, and at the studio drill your wheel head with two opposing holes.
Then affix the machine screws to the wheel head with the washers and wing
nuts. Make a paper template of your wheel head, with exact locations of
the holes, and overlay this onto the bottom of your bats, marking the
location of the center of the bat pins, and then drill the bottom of the
bats to a depth equal to the heighth of the bat pin above the wheelhead.
Voila. You now, after an hour of work, have drilled bats that fit onto
your wheelhead, and which will save you lots of time over the years
putting them on and off the wheel, and which will minimize bat warping if
your bats are at all water permeable.
If someone else has already suggested this, I apologize.
Richard Aerni
Bloomfield, NY
Vince Pitelka wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Jenny -
> The posts about using a thrown "cookie" or "pancake" (a flat "plate" of
> clay) on the wheel are right on the mark. If you do not have bat pins, this
> is the best way to affix a bat to the wheel. One thing which has not been
> mentioned, however, is the importance of having the "cookie" perfectly
> level, or even slightly lower in the center. If it is even slightly convex
> it will not work. The finger grooves work best if they spiral out from the
> center. That way, when you use a screwdriver (or whatever) to pry the bat
> off, air can enter through the spiral grooves. As mentioned in other posts,
> the "cookie" can be reused for many bats, but it will work best if you renew
> the finger grooves after every six or eight bats.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
> Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Lyn Packer on fri 9 jan 98
Have been following the thread about attaching bats to the wheelhead using
a clay pad, and agree with all the advice. I use plaster and particle board
bats. I found the plaster bats stuck really well, but the particle ones
used to slide off, until a potter friend suggested sliding them on, and
then giving them a 'hit' to secure them. No problems now. All the best for
1998.
Lyn in N.Z where we're in the middle of a beautiful summer
lyn.packer@clear.net.nz
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