Suzanne Scarbrough on sat 3 jan 98
Good Morning Clayarters,
I am trying to find out a few specific things about the use of Egyptian
Paste.I was planning on making beads.I bought Egyptian Paste from a
supplier whose directions were to add water to a paste consistancy
Specifically how gooey a paste, or something I can form in my hands?I
don't have a scale so I can't measure out 100 grams therefore I would
have to guesstimate. Is it really necessary to use rubber gloves when I
am rolling them between my hands if I'm only making a few? Is there much
shrinkage or will I be able to get them off the Nichrome wire after I
fire them with no difficulty? Was also making other beads from stoneware
clay that I have,bisquing them,glazing with a commercial 04 and firing
all of them,including the EP ones at 04 medium firing with a 20 min
hold.Does that sound OK? I really don't want to screw this up so will
wait until I get some advise .TIA
Sue Scarbrough from rather chilly South Carolina.
George Mackie on sun 4 jan 98
At 11:27 AM 1/3/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Good Morning Clayarters,
Good morning to you Sue
>
> I am trying to find out a few specific things about the use of Egyptian
>Paste.I was planning on making beads.I bought Egyptian Paste from a
>supplier whose directions were to add water to a paste consistancy
>Specifically how gooey a paste, or something I can form in my hands?
About the same consistency you would use with clay for modelling or
throwing- not too gooey, not too stiff! ( Big help)
> Is it really necessary to use rubber gloves when I
>am rolling them between my hands if I'm only making a few?
Reason for gloves is that the mixture contains soda in some form which can
be hard on the hands (though not fatally so)
>Is there much
>shrinkage or will I be able to get them off the Nichrome wire after I
>fire them with no difficulty?
They will come off the wire ok. Most of the alkali migrates to the outer
surface as the paste dries and though a bit may migrate to the inside tunnel
its unlikely to be enough to cause adhesion.
>Was also making other beads from stoneware
>clay that I have,bisquing them,glazing with a commercial 04 and firing
>all of them,including the EP ones at 04 medium firing with a 20 min
>hold.Does that sound OK?
Should work. The stoneware won't vitrify at cone 04 of course and the glaze
may not fit perfectly - it may well craze a bit in fact - but the beads will
be reasonably hard, and
if the glaze crazes you might even like the effect and could enhance it by
rubbing ink into it.
>I really don't want to screw this up so will
>wait until I get some advise. Sue Scarbrough from rather chilly South Carolina.
>
Good luck and let me know if you run into difficulties. George
Bryan Stecker on sun 4 jan 98
Hi Suzanne:
I've fooled with Egyptian Paste a little. Here are some tips: 1-don't mis
too much water with the powder. If you do let it dry out on a piece of
plastic. If you put it on paper or canvas the salts that form the glaze
will leech out. 2-allow the pieces to dry completely and watch the salts
come to the surface. Once again, place them on a piece of plastic so the
salts won't absorb into the surface (ie. paper, canvas, etc.) This will
take a few days to a week and it will look like a fuzzy surface on the
clay. For beads, (I haven't tried this) I would make the beads and put them
on the bead tree wet, allow them to dry. When the salts form it is very
hard to move pieces, esp. ones you want glazed on all sides. Your can buy
Egyptian paste or mix your own. I've tried both and both are successful.
Laguna is much cheaper than Amaco. I've tried raku firing Egyptian Paste
and the copper blue turned out a real nice copper blue with a fair amount of
copper.
Here are the recipies I have used:
Egyptian Paste (5,000 BC)
Feldspar 40
Flint 20
Kaolin 15
Ball Clay 5
Sodium
Bicarbonate 6
Whiting 5
Fine White
Sand 8
Egyptian Paste (1971 AD)
Ball Clay 35
J Frit (P2245) 12
Soda Ash 6
Fine White
Sand 10
colorants to add to either recipe:
turquoise 2% copper
blue 2% cobalt
Pink 1% manganese
Brown 5% manganese
lime green 5% chrome
copper works best!
Good Luck! Remember to stilt flat pieces or cover the shelves with powdered
kiln wash. Have fun.
Anne Stecker
reckets@open.org
Suzanne Scarbrough wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Good Morning Clayarters,
>
> I am trying to find out a few specific things about the use of Egyptian
> Paste.I was planning on making beads.I bought Egyptian Paste from a
> supplier whose directions were to add water to a paste consistancy
> Specifically how gooey a paste, or something I can form in my hands?I
> don't have a scale so I can't measure out 100 grams therefore I would
> have to guesstimate. Is it really necessary to use rubber gloves when I
> am rolling them between my hands if I'm only making a few? Is there much
> shrinkage or will I be able to get them off the Nichrome wire after I
> fire them with no difficulty? Was also making other beads from stoneware
> clay that I have,bisquing them,glazing with a commercial 04 and firing
> all of them,including the EP ones at 04 medium firing with a 20 min
> hold.Does that sound OK? I really don't want to screw this up so will
> wait until I get some advise .TIA
>
> Sue Scarbrough from rather chilly South Carolina.
Robert Rank on wed 7 jan 98
Suzanne,
RE: Egyptian Paste for beads.
1. A good non porous surface to mix and work the clay on is glass. And don't
worry too much about the salts going out if you need to dry the beads some on
a paper towel (to get water out)
2. I use a drill bit(s) (by hand) for making the holes. As the beads dry
they shrink, so keep using gradually larger drill bits and redoing the holes,
so when
they are dry they will fit what you want. (and won't crack off the rod while
you're making them).
3. I make mine and put them on a bigger wire or tube first. I coat this tube
with silicon spray, which I learned helps tremendously to get them off. When
they are dry and powdery I transfer them to the nichrome wires of the bead
tree. But, first coat your nichrome wires with, instead of kiln
wash---Whiting. Let each wire dry, put the beads on and what I do is stick
the wires on a bead tree in my AIM test kiln. (I have added a ring at the top
to make the kiln higher) and fire to 06. The wires need to be cleaned up with
stone after each second firing or so and repainted or dipped.
4. Don't worry about handling them too much. Just handle them as little as
possible and it should be fine. Good colors can be got by mixing 2 or 3
colors together, making something like a roll and cutting pieces off of it,
then finishing up the bead, kind of like fimo beads. Mason stains Manzerine
Blue does a great job for cobalt.
They last and last but if not fired quite high enough will get a salty coat
after awhile. You want them to be brilliant when they come out of the kiln.
P.S. I use rubber gloves because my hands break out if I don't. Lynn
For my recepies contact me at:
Bob_Rank@msn.com
----------
From: Ceramic Arts Discussion List on behalf of Bryan Stecker
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 1998 6:12 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list CLAYART
Subject: Re: Egyptian Paste Beads
----------------------------Original message----------------------------
Hi Suzanne:
I've fooled with Egyptian Paste a little. Here are some tips: 1-don't mis
too much water with the powder. If you do let it dry out on a piece of
plastic. If you put it on paper or canvas the salts that form the glaze
will leech out. 2-allow the pieces to dry completely and watch the salts
come to the surface. Once again, place them on a piece of plastic so the
salts won't absorb into the surface (ie. paper, canvas, etc.) This will
take a few days to a week and it will look like a fuzzy surface on the
clay. For beads, (I haven't tried this) I would make the beads and put them
on the bead tree wet, allow them to dry. When the salts form it is very
hard to move pieces, esp. ones you want glazed on all sides. Your can buy
Egyptian paste or mix your own. I've tried both and both are successful.
Laguna is much cheaper than Amaco. I've tried raku firing Egyptian Paste
and the copper blue turned out a real nice copper blue with a fair amount of
copper.
Here are the recipies I have used:
Egyptian Paste (5,000 BC)
Feldspar 40
Flint 20
Kaolin 15
Ball Clay 5
Sodium
Bicarbonate 6
Whiting 5
Fine White
Sand 8
Egyptian Paste (1971 AD)
Ball Clay 35
J Frit (P2245) 12
Soda Ash 6
Fine White
Sand 10
colorants to add to either recipe:
turquoise 2% copper
blue 2% cobalt
Pink 1% manganese
Brown 5% manganese
lime green 5% chrome
copper works best!
Good Luck! Remember to stilt flat pieces or cover the shelves with powdered
kiln wash. Have fun.
Anne Stecker
reckets@open.org
Suzanne Scarbrough wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Good Morning Clayarters,
>
> I am trying to find out a few specific things about the use of Egyptian
> Paste.I was planning on making beads.I bought Egyptian Paste from a
> supplier whose directions were to add water to a paste consistancy
> Specifically how gooey a paste, or something I can form in my hands?I
> don't have a scale so I can't measure out 100 grams therefore I would
> have to guesstimate. Is it really necessary to use rubber gloves when I
> am rolling them between my hands if I'm only making a few? Is there much
> shrinkage or will I be able to get them off the Nichrome wire after I
> fire them with no difficulty? Was also making other beads from stoneware
> clay that I have,bisquing them,glazing with a commercial 04 and firing
> all of them,including the EP ones at 04 medium firing with a 20 min
> hold.Does that sound OK? I really don't want to screw this up so will
> wait until I get some advise .TIA
>
> Sue Scarbrough from rather chilly South Carolina.
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