Snail Scott on thu 12 aug 10
Well, I'm finally writing up the loop-tool
workshop I did at NCECA in Philly:
This is a quick-and-dirty way to make a
small-to-medium-sized loop tool using
stuff you probably already have and were
going to throw away anyway. You will
need:
1. a dead Sharpie marker
2. a dead windshield wiper
and a pair of pliers, pref. needle-nose.
When you strip an old windshield wiper off
your vehicle, you will note that most have
two strips of springy stainless steel running
their length. To extract it, just pull the wiper
apart like string cheese; they will pop right
out, offering enough metal for a dozen loops
or more. (If you haven't a car or don't need to
change wipers just now, a quick trip to the
trash can in front of the nearest auto-parts
store will likely supply several, as this is one
of those repairs often done on-the-spot.)
If you want a sharp tool, it is easiest to sharpen
it now. I like to use a belt sander - it's fast and
easy and makes a very even bevel. Hold each
end of the steel strip, bringing just one edge
down against the sanding belt, parallel to the
direction of the belt, until sharp. You can also
use a palm sander by clamping either the sander
or the metal in a vise. (Hold the other end of the
steel firmly if you clamp the metal.) A bench
grinder will also work, but use fine-grit wheel
and keep the metal parallel to the wheel, not
crosswise. Don't try to sharpen right to the ends!
If you do not have power tools, a file will work nicely,
though it will take longer. Tape the strip to the edge
of any straight thing, and file downward at an angle.
If you lack even a file, you can sit on the sidewalk
and watch the pigeons while rubbing the edge
of the strip against the concrete, or use a rock. ;)
You can also use a hand file to sharpen
afterward. Some people may prefer this anyway.
Draw your desired loop shape actual-size
on a piece of paper (heck, draw on the table,
I won't tell), and add 1/2" (1 cm) extra length
at each end. (This is the part that will intrude
into the handle.) If you want to wing it, you can
skip the drawing, but the drawing does help if
you have an exact contour in mind.
Using the pliers, bend the steel strip into the
shape you desire. (Start at the end of the strip
that doesn't have sharp barbs, or break them
off first!) Hold the short end in the pliers, so
that your other hand has the long remainder
for leverage in bending. Remember to start
with that extra 1/2" length. After each bend,
lay the metal against your drawing to check
the shape, and mark the spot for the next bend.
If you pre-sharpened your metal, make sure
the bevel is on the outside edge. (If it is an
asymmetrical loop shape, make sure it's on the
side it's needed). An inside-beveled loop will
cut more deeply than an outside-beveled loop
and be harder to control when trimming, but
they have their uses for low-angle scraping
and carving.
Sharp corners can be made sharpest by bending
right against the pliers, then forcing it against a
hard surface to square it up. Softer curves are
done by 'walking' the pliers along the curve,
bending just a bit at a time. A true squared corner
bay require scoring the inside of the bend first.
When you have reached the end of your shape
(including the extra 1/2"), mark the end and break
off the steel at that point. Don't try to cut the metal
with wire cutters, even if they are built into your
pliers. That's way too much work! Instead, hold
the shape in the pliers, right at the end, and bend
the extra length back and forth close to the pliers.
Metal fatigue will break it off neatly in short order.
Bend the 1/2" 'leader' sections outward to make a
sort of funnel or 'V; shape, flaring outward a minimum
of 1/4", maximum 1/2" apart at the ends.
Take your Sharpie marker and using the pliers,
yank out the dead felt tip. I recommend a standard
size Sharpie (so-called 'fine point' style, not extra-
fine or chisel, or any other brand) not because I get
a cut of sales, but because they are widely available
and more importantly, the 'neck' is the perfect diameter
for the wiper strips, and the 'shoulder' flares abruptly
wider quite close to the tip. Too long or narrow a neck,
or too sloping a shoulder, and this won't work half as
well. The short neck is critical for allowing the flared
leaders to spring back apart inside.
Take the flared-out 'leaders' of the loop and pinch
them together with the pliers, then shove into the
neck of the pen. The flared leaders will spring back
out and hold the loop firmly in place. If the loop seems
loose, widen the flare of the leader ends and re-insert.
This is enough to hold solidly in most uses.
You are done!
If you chose not to sharpen in advance, you can do
so now, using a hand file or a handy sidewalk. (The
sidewalk takes a while, but it Is sort of relaxing, and
you can eat a popsicle with your other hand.) You
can sharpen both sides or just one - it's up to you.
If you prefer even more rigidity or resistance to the
loop pulling out, mix a thimble-amount of gel epoxy
(the 5-minute kind in the syringes), and dribble it
into the pen opening with a toothpick or some such.
Re-insert the loop, push a wad of clay or chewing
gum around the joint, and prop it loop-end down
until the epoxy sets. The epoxy won't bond well to
the plastic inside; that's OK. it's just there to rigidize
the connection by making a fitted plug with the
leaders embedded in it.
If you choose not to glue the loop in place, you can
use the same pen handle for multiple loop shapes,
and just swap them around at need.
If you want to get fancy, you can use a different-
colored Sharpie for each loop shape, for fashion
and color-coded convenience. ;)
Street-sweeper bristles and hanging-folder ribs
will work also; I happen to prefer the wiper-blade
strips.
-Snail
Glistering Phaeton on thu 12 aug 10
Yay...thank you! Let the scrounging begin!
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Snail Scott
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2010 11:04 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: windshield wiper loop tools
Well, I'm finally writing up the loop-tool workshop I did at NCECA in
Philly:
This is a quick-and-dirty way to make a
small-to-medium-sized loop tool using
stuff you probably already have and were going to throw away anyway. You
will
need:
1. a dead Sharpie marker
2. a dead windshield wiper
and a pair of pliers, pref. needle-nose.
When you strip an old windshield wiper off your vehicle, you will note that
most have two strips of springy stainless steel running their length. To
extract it, just pull the wiper apart like string cheese; they will pop
right out, offering enough metal for a dozen loops or more. (If you haven't
a car or don't need to change wipers just now, a quick trip to the trash ca=
n
in front of the nearest auto-parts store will likely supply several, as thi=
s
is one of those repairs often done on-the-spot.)
If you want a sharp tool, it is easiest to sharpen it now. I like to use a
belt sander - it's fast and easy and makes a very even bevel. Hold each end
of the steel strip, bringing just one edge down against the sanding belt,
parallel to the direction of the belt, until sharp. You can also use a palm
sander by clamping either the sander or the metal in a vise. (Hold the othe=
r
end of the steel firmly if you clamp the metal.) A bench grinder will also
work, but use fine-grit wheel and keep the metal parallel to the wheel, not
crosswise. Don't try to sharpen right to the ends!
If you do not have power tools, a file will work nicely, though it will tak=
e
longer. Tape the strip to the edge of any straight thing, and file downward
at an angle.
If you lack even a file, you can sit on the sidewalk and watch the pigeons
while rubbing the edge of the strip against the concrete, or use a rock. ;=
)
You can also use a hand file to sharpen
afterward. Some people may prefer this anyway.
Draw your desired loop shape actual-size on a piece of paper (heck, draw on
the table, I won't tell), and add 1/2" (1 cm) extra length at each end.
(This is the part that will intrude into the handle.) If you want to wing
it, you can skip the drawing, but the drawing does help if you have an exac=
t
contour in mind.
Using the pliers, bend the steel strip into the shape you desire. (Start at
the end of the strip that doesn't have sharp barbs, or break them off
first!) Hold the short end in the pliers, so that your other hand has the
long remainder for leverage in bending. Remember to start with that extra
1/2" length. After each bend, lay the metal against your drawing to check
the shape, and mark the spot for the next bend.
If you pre-sharpened your metal, make sure the bevel is on the outside edge=
.
(If it is an asymmetrical loop shape, make sure it's on the side it's
needed). An inside-beveled loop will cut more deeply than an outside-bevele=
d
loop and be harder to control when trimming, but they have their uses for
low-angle scraping and carving.
Sharp corners can be made sharpest by bending right against the pliers, the=
n
forcing it against a hard surface to square it up. Softer curves are done b=
y
'walking' the pliers along the curve, bending just a bit at a time. A true
squared corner bay require scoring the inside of the bend first.
When you have reached the end of your shape (including the extra 1/2"), mar=
k
the end and break off the steel at that point. Don't try to cut the metal
with wire cutters, even if they are built into your pliers. That's way too
much work! Instead, hold the shape in the pliers, right at the end, and
bend the extra length back and forth close to the pliers.
Metal fatigue will break it off neatly in short order.
Bend the 1/2" 'leader' sections outward to make a sort of funnel or 'V;
shape, flaring outward a minimum of 1/4", maximum 1/2" apart at the ends.
Take your Sharpie marker and using the pliers, yank out the dead felt tip. =
I
recommend a standard size Sharpie (so-called 'fine point' style, not extra-
fine or chisel, or any other brand) not because I get a cut of sales, but
because they are widely available and more importantly, the 'neck' is the
perfect diameter for the wiper strips, and the 'shoulder' flares abruptly
wider quite close to the tip. Too long or narrow a neck, or too sloping a
shoulder, and this won't work half as well. The short neck is critical for
allowing the flared leaders to spring back apart inside.
Take the flared-out 'leaders' of the loop and pinch them together with the
pliers, then shove into the neck of the pen. The flared leaders will spring
back out and hold the loop firmly in place. If the loop seems loose, widen
the flare of the leader ends and re-insert.
This is enough to hold solidly in most uses.
You are done!
If you chose not to sharpen in advance, you can do so now, using a hand fil=
e
or a handy sidewalk. (The sidewalk takes a while, but it Is sort of
relaxing, and you can eat a popsicle with your other hand.) You can sharpen
both sides or just one - it's up to you.
If you prefer even more rigidity or resistance to the loop pulling out, mix
a thimble-amount of gel epoxy (the 5-minute kind in the syringes), and
dribble it into the pen opening with a toothpick or some such.
Re-insert the loop, push a wad of clay or chewing gum around the joint, and
prop it loop-end down until the epoxy sets. The epoxy won't bond well to th=
e
plastic inside; that's OK. it's just there to rigidize the connection by
making a fitted plug with the leaders embedded in it.
If you choose not to glue the loop in place, you can use the same pen handl=
e
for multiple loop shapes, and just swap them around at need.
If you want to get fancy, you can use a different- colored Sharpie for each
loop shape, for fashion and color-coded convenience. ;)
Street-sweeper bristles and hanging-folder ribs will work also; I happen to
prefer the wiper-blade strips.
-Snail
Patrick Cross on thu 12 aug 10
Similar to the stainless wiper splines are the pocket clips on the caps of
the UniBall Vision Micro pens I use... (Probably other pens too). They're
short little bits to work with, but they do already have 'factory' beveled
edges and a couple of pre-made bends that might be fairly difficult to make
with pliers.
It only takes about 30 seconds to remove the clip. There's a small round
end-cap has to be popped off and then coming from the top of the cap with a
small X-Acto blade, slipped between the plastic and the metal clip...and
then carefully rocking the blade downward 90 degrees on either side of the
clip allows for it to then be slipped out.
(Waste-Not-Want-Not?... or ...To much time on hand.)
Patrick Cross
Cone10Soda
On Thu, Aug 12, 2010 at 1:03 PM, Snail Scott wro=
te:
> Well, I'm finally writing up the loop-tool
> workshop I did at NCECA in Philly:
>
> This is a quick-and-dirty way to make a
> small-to-medium-sized loop tool using
> stuff you probably already have and were
> going to throw away anyway. You will
> need:
>
> 1. a dead Sharpie marker
> 2. a dead windshield wiper
>
> and a pair of pliers, pref. needle-nose.
>
> When you strip an old windshield wiper off
> your vehicle, you will note that most have
> two strips of springy stainless steel running
> their length. To extract it, just pull the wiper
> apart like string cheese; they will pop right
> out, offering enough metal for a dozen loops
> or more. (If you haven't a car or don't need to
> change wipers just now, a quick trip to the
> trash can in front of the nearest auto-parts
> store will likely supply several, as this is one
> of those repairs often done on-the-spot.)
>
> If you want a sharp tool, it is easiest to sharpen
> it now. I like to use a belt sander - it's fast and
> easy and makes a very even bevel. Hold each
> end of the steel strip, bringing just one edge
> down against the sanding belt, parallel to the
> direction of the belt, until sharp. You can also
> use a palm sander by clamping either the sander
> or the metal in a vise. (Hold the other end of the
> steel firmly if you clamp the metal.) A bench
> grinder will also work, but use fine-grit wheel
> and keep the metal parallel to the wheel, not
> crosswise. Don't try to sharpen right to the ends!
>
> If you do not have power tools, a file will work nicely,
> though it will take longer. Tape the strip to the edge
> of any straight thing, and file downward at an angle.
> If you lack even a file, you can sit on the sidewalk
> and watch the pigeons while rubbing the edge
> of the strip against the concrete, or use a rock. ;)
>
> You can also use a hand file to sharpen
> afterward. Some people may prefer this anyway.
>
> Draw your desired loop shape actual-size
> on a piece of paper (heck, draw on the table,
> I won't tell), and add 1/2" (1 cm) extra length
> at each end. (This is the part that will intrude
> into the handle.) If you want to wing it, you can
> skip the drawing, but the drawing does help if
> you have an exact contour in mind.
>
> Using the pliers, bend the steel strip into the
> shape you desire. (Start at the end of the strip
> that doesn't have sharp barbs, or break them
> off first!) Hold the short end in the pliers, so
> that your other hand has the long remainder
> for leverage in bending. Remember to start
> with that extra 1/2" length. After each bend,
> lay the metal against your drawing to check
> the shape, and mark the spot for the next bend.
> If you pre-sharpened your metal, make sure
> the bevel is on the outside edge. (If it is an
> asymmetrical loop shape, make sure it's on the
> side it's needed). An inside-beveled loop will
> cut more deeply than an outside-beveled loop
> and be harder to control when trimming, but
> they have their uses for low-angle scraping
> and carving.
>
> Sharp corners can be made sharpest by bending
> right against the pliers, then forcing it against a
> hard surface to square it up. Softer curves are
> done by 'walking' the pliers along the curve,
> bending just a bit at a time. A true squared corner
> bay require scoring the inside of the bend first.
>
> When you have reached the end of your shape
> (including the extra 1/2"), mark the end and break
> off the steel at that point. Don't try to cut the metal
> with wire cutters, even if they are built into your
> pliers. That's way too much work! Instead, hold
> the shape in the pliers, right at the end, and bend
> the extra length back and forth close to the pliers.
> Metal fatigue will break it off neatly in short order.
>
> Bend the 1/2" 'leader' sections outward to make a
> sort of funnel or 'V; shape, flaring outward a minimum
> of 1/4", maximum 1/2" apart at the ends.
>
> Take your Sharpie marker and using the pliers,
> yank out the dead felt tip. I recommend a standard
> size Sharpie (so-called 'fine point' style, not extra-
> fine or chisel, or any other brand) not because I get
> a cut of sales, but because they are widely available
> and more importantly, the 'neck' is the perfect diameter
> for the wiper strips, and the 'shoulder' flares abruptly
> wider quite close to the tip. Too long or narrow a neck,
> or too sloping a shoulder, and this won't work half as
> well. The short neck is critical for allowing the flared
> leaders to spring back apart inside.
>
> Take the flared-out 'leaders' of the loop and pinch
> them together with the pliers, then shove into the
> neck of the pen. The flared leaders will spring back
> out and hold the loop firmly in place. If the loop seems
> loose, widen the flare of the leader ends and re-insert.
> This is enough to hold solidly in most uses.
>
> You are done!
>
> If you chose not to sharpen in advance, you can do
> so now, using a hand file or a handy sidewalk. (The
> sidewalk takes a while, but it Is sort of relaxing, and
> you can eat a popsicle with your other hand.) You
> can sharpen both sides or just one - it's up to you.
>
> If you prefer even more rigidity or resistance to the
> loop pulling out, mix a thimble-amount of gel epoxy
> (the 5-minute kind in the syringes), and dribble it
> into the pen opening with a toothpick or some such.
> Re-insert the loop, push a wad of clay or chewing
> gum around the joint, and prop it loop-end down
> until the epoxy sets. The epoxy won't bond well to
> the plastic inside; that's OK. it's just there to rigidize
> the connection by making a fitted plug with the
> leaders embedded in it.
>
> If you choose not to glue the loop in place, you can
> use the same pen handle for multiple loop shapes,
> and just swap them around at need.
>
> If you want to get fancy, you can use a different-
> colored Sharpie for each loop shape, for fashion
> and color-coded convenience. ;)
>
> Street-sweeper bristles and hanging-folder ribs
> will work also; I happen to prefer the wiper-blade
> strips.
>
> -Snail
>
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