Lee Love on sun 5 sep 10
On Sun, Sep 5, 2010 at 9:40 PM, phil wrote:
> Just get some 3/8ths "Medex"...
>
> Make an adaptor Bat to fit the Three Pin Head...
I always keep the pins in my shimpo wheelhead. When I use pinless
bats, I just attach them to the pinned bat with clay.
I have a Dremel Trio that easily cuts circles for bats, but it can
also make holes in your existing bats to fit the Soldner wheelhead.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=
=3D
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cStoreNum=3D3D2843&marketID=3D3D101
--
=3DA0Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
Steve Slatin on sun 5 sep 10
Sorry to interrupt the brouhaha with a clay related
question, but I've got some problems ...
I recently acquired a Soldner 'P' series wheel.
This is a very, very old wheel, and it has the
three-pin hole head -- a triangle of drilled
1/4 inch pin holes, equidistant and about 9
inches apart from each other (eyeballed, I
didn't measure).
The head itself is flat and true and solid, and
I would like to keep it if I can -- is there
an adapter so that standard-drilled bats (the
two-pin, ten-inch-apart guys) will fit onto
my existing wheel head? I remember seeing one
for bats that were drilled with a 6" span ...
I'd also like to know if anyone has had any
experience using a plastic splash pan from another
wheel on a Soldner P series. (I know Soldner
makes something, but I don't think it'll meet
my needs). I do know that the S
series will accept the Brent splash pan, but
it looks like the cast-iron angle bracket that the
plywood top bolts into would block a Brent pan.
Now I have to go and pull the wires (cracking
insulating) from the beast and replace them with
modern stuff. I'm also wondering about altering
the position of the controller (which is mounted
to the bottom of the plywood top, rather than
being in a separate unit, and is attached to
the wooden 'foot pedal' with a metal chain. Then
I'll need to figure out how to lube the pillow
block bearings ... don't know if they came
off of a truck, but the word "Dodge" is cast
into the metal. This promises to be a splendid
project.
Thanks in advance --
Steve Slatin
Vince Pitelka on sun 5 sep 10
Jeese Steve, come on, we're talking about really important stuff, not clay
stuff.
Seriously, this is a very simple solution. I would not bother with
adaptors. Just get yourself a brand new plastic or Masonite bat with the
standard bat-pin holes on 10" centers - either a 12" or a 14" depending on
whether your wheelhead is 12" or 14". Center the bat carefully on your
wheel, and clamp it down with several C-clamps. The holes are 3/8"
diameter. Put a 3/8" bit in your drill, and holding the drill perfectly
vertically in each of the bat-pin holes, drill just a slight dimple into th=
e
surface of the wheelhead. Take the 3/8" bit out and put in an 1/8" bit and
drill through, and then go back to the 3/8" hole. It will follow the 1/8"
pilot hole just fine, and your bat-pin holes will be right on. Go to Lowe'=
s
or Home Depot and get the appropriate length of 1/4x20 Allen socket-head ca=
p
screws and some 1/4-20 wing nuts for under the wheelhead.
We still have a small herd of Shimpo RK-2s in our fleet of wheels, and I di=
d
this conversion on all of them, and it worked perfectly every time.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
phil on sun 5 sep 10
Just get some 3/8ths "Medex"...
Make an adaptor Bat to fit the Three Pin Head...
Add to this Bat, a Two Pin condition fitting your existing Bats' hole
schedule...
And, you are "done"...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Slatin"
> Sorry to interrupt the brouhaha with a clay related
> question, but I've got some problems ...
>
> I recently acquired a Soldner 'P' series wheel.
> This is a very, very old wheel, and it has the
> three-pin hole head -- a triangle of drilled
> 1/4 inch pin holes, equidistant and about 9
> inches apart from each other (eyeballed, I
> didn't measure).
<<<<<<<<<<<< snipped fo' kindness to de archives >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Vince Pitelka on mon 6 sep 10
My apologies about the instructions below. One very important mistake - yo=
u
do use the 3/8" bit to create small dimples in the wheelhead through each o=
f
the holes in the bat, and then use the 1/8" bit to drill the pilot holes,
but then you use a 1/4" bit (not a 3/8" bit) to drill the hole for the
1/4-20 Allen socket-head cap screw. I am sure that I will get plenty of
corrections on this, but I did spot it as soon as I read my own post this
morning.
Sorry for the mix-up, Steve.
- Vince
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Vince Pitelka
Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:50 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: One old Soldner wheel, two questions
Jeese Steve, come on, we're talking about really important stuff, not clay
stuff.
Seriously, this is a very simple solution. I would not bother with
adaptors. Just get yourself a brand new plastic or Masonite bat with the
standard bat-pin holes on 10" centers - either a 12" or a 14" depending on
whether your wheelhead is 12" or 14". Center the bat carefully on your
wheel, and clamp it down with several C-clamps. The holes are 3/8"
diameter. Put a 3/8" bit in your drill, and holding the drill perfectly
vertically in each of the bat-pin holes, drill just a slight dimple into th=
e
surface of the wheelhead. Take the 3/8" bit out and put in an 1/8" bit and
drill through, and then go back to the 3/8" hole. It will follow the 1/8"
pilot hole just fine, and your bat-pin holes will be right on. Go to Lowe'=
s
or Home Depot and get the appropriate length of 1/4x20 Allen socket-head ca=
p
screws and some 1/4-20 wing nuts for under the wheelhead.
We still have a small herd of Shimpo RK-2s in our fleet of wheels, and I di=
d
this conversion on all of them, and it worked perfectly every time.
Good luck -
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Steve Slatin on mon 6 sep 10
Vince, Phil, Ron -- thanks for the help -- I'll try=3D20
redrilling the wheelhead for the 10" size and see how=3D20
it works.
I had thought that it was a 1/4 inch standard, but
haven't even had time to measure one. I generally
check before drilling metal, anyway. =3D20
Steve Slatin --=3D20
N48.0886450
W123.1420482
--- On Mon, 9/6/10, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> My apologies about the instructions
> below.=3DA0 One very important mistake - you
> do use the 3/8" bit to create small dimples in the
> wheelhead through each of
> the holes in the bat, and then use the 1/8" bit to drill
> the pilot holes,
> but then you use a 1/4" bit (not a 3/8" bit) to drill the
> hole for the
> 1/4-20 Allen socket-head cap screw.=3DA0 I am sure that I
> will get plenty of
> corrections on this, but I did spot it as soon as I read my
> own post this
> morning.
>=3D20
> Sorry for the mix-up, Steve.
> - Vince=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
phil on tue 7 sep 10
Hi Steve,
You could also attatch an Adapting-Two-Pin-Bat to the Wheel Head by removin=
g
the old Pins, and using three short Wood Screws from below, or using 14-20
Elevator Bolts, or even Carriage Bolts, countersunk and run from above, Nut=
s
and Lock Washers below...if there was concern about an adapting Bat
loosening if merely set onto the existing Pins.
This then would preserve the uniqueness of the original condition, while
making no permenent changes.
Phil
Lv
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Slatin"
Vince, Phil, Ron -- thanks for the help -- I'll try
redrilling the wheelhead for the 10" size and see how
it works.
I had thought that it was a 1/4 inch standard, but
haven't even had time to measure one. I generally
check before drilling metal, anyway.
Steve Slatin --
Clyde Tullis on wed 8 sep 10
I've been following this thread with a bit of wonder. It's easy to make a=
=3D
n
interface with another batt. Try not to get too Rube Golgberg though.=3D20=
=3D
=3D20
But..... Have you tried to stick your batts to the wheelhead with layer o=
=3D
f
clay. Thrown about 3/4" inch thick, combed with a course serrated rib.
Center the batt, give it a good pop with your fist and your good-to -go. =
=3D
You
will find the right wetness of the clay/batt to make it stick well. Cover=
=3D
it
with a plastic bag and you can use it for days.
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