Fred Parker on mon 4 oct 10
I recently started making a line of little one-of-a-kind stoneware saucer=
=3D
s
for a small shop that grows and sells various herbs and other plants, and=
=3D
sells my (and other potters') pottery. My saucers have leaves, seed pods=
=3D
etc. impressed into the soft clay in an attempt to keep the theme alive. =
=3D
My
own favorite method of "glazing" them is to apply a strong iron oxide was=
=3D
h,
then wipe most of it away. The result is very nice showing all the littl=
=3D
e
subtleties of veining, seeds and other details. I use various brown and r=
=3D
ed
stoneware clays so there is variety and the clays themselves are interest=
=3D
ing
without any more glaze.
In the last batch I also glazed some of the saucers with a milky white ma=
=3D
tte
base glaze which looked terrible at first. All the detail was filled in,=
=3D
and the glaze itself looked like hell. (V.C. "D" Base) I remedied that
crisis by applying a liberal coat of my iron oxide wash, sponging much of=
=3D
it
away and running those back through a glaze firing in a desperate,
all-or-nothing move. That did the trick. Of course, that color also end=
=3D
ed
up being the public's favorite, outselling the others by almost three to =
=3D
one.
Can anyone suggest a way to glaze these surfaces without having to glaze
fire them twice, and still show a satisfactory level of the fine detail o=
=3D
f
the leaf/seed pod impressions? I'm making more of the saucers now, and
already dreading the glazing...
Many thanks,
Fred
May Luk on mon 4 oct 10
Fred;
Maybe: do the iron wash in the greenware stage, wipe and bisque. Then
do the matte white glaze firing, but make it slower and longer,
perhaps a slower cooling cycle. Maybe you will get something close and
one less glaze firing.
It's probably too late to change clay, a white glaze on a brown clay
body...the look is similar, though no cigar.
May
Brooklyn NY
On Mon, Oct 4, 2010 at 11:12 AM, Fred Parker wrote:
> I recently started making a line of little one-of-a-kind stoneware saucer=
=3D
s
> for a small shop that grows and sells various herbs and other plants, and
> sells my (and other potters') pottery. =3DA0My saucers have leaves, seed =
po=3D
ds
> etc. impressed into the soft clay in an attempt to keep the theme alive. =
=3D
=3DA0My
> own favorite method of "glazing" them is to apply a strong iron oxide was=
=3D
h,
> then wipe most of it away. =3DA0The result is very nice showing all the l=
it=3D
tle
> subtleties of veining, seeds and other details. I use various brown and r=
=3D
ed
> stoneware clays so there is variety and the clays themselves are interest=
=3D
ing
> without any more glaze.
>
> In the last batch I also glazed some of the saucers with a milky white ma=
=3D
tte
> base glaze which looked terrible at first. =3DA0All the detail was filled=
i=3D
n,
> and the glaze itself looked like hell. (V.C. "D" Base) =3DA0I remedied th=
at
> crisis by applying a liberal coat of my iron oxide wash, sponging much of=
=3D
it
> away and running those back through a glaze firing in a desperate,
> all-or-nothing move. =3DA0That did the trick. =3DA0Of course, that color =
also=3D
ended
> up being the public's favorite, outselling the others by almost three to =
=3D
one.
>
> Can anyone suggest a way to glaze these surfaces without having to glaze
> fire them twice, and still show a satisfactory level of the fine detail o=
=3D
f
> the leaf/seed pod impressions? =3DA0I'm making more of the saucers now, a=
nd
> already dreading the glazing...
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Fred
>
--=3D20
http://twitter.com/MayLuk
http://www.ceramicsbrooklyn.com/
Ann Brink on mon 4 oct 10
Would it work to apply your glaze to your leatherhard saucers, so that all
you have to do for the glaze firing is the RIO wash?
Ann Brink in Lompoc CA
(mostly about pottery)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Parker"
To:
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 8:12 AM
Subject: Glaze challenge - I'm desperate!
>I recently started making a line of little one-of-a-kind stoneware saucers
> for a small shop that grows and sells various herbs and other plants, and
> sells my (and other potters') pottery. My saucers have leaves, seed pods
> etc. impressed into the soft clay in an attempt to keep the theme alive.
> My
> own favorite method of "glazing" them is to apply a strong iron oxide
> wash,
> then wipe most of it away. The result is very nice showing all the littl=
e
> subtleties of veining, seeds and other details. I use various brown and
> red
> stoneware clays so there is variety and the clays themselves are
> interesting
> without any more glaze.
>
> In the last batch I also glazed some of the saucers with a milky white
> matte
> base glaze which looked terrible at first. All the detail was filled in,
> and the glaze itself looked like hell. (V.C. "D" Base) I remedied that
> crisis by applying a liberal coat of my iron oxide wash, sponging much of
> it
> away and running those back through a glaze firing in a desperate,
> all-or-nothing move. That did the trick. Of course, that color also
> ended
> up being the public's favorite, outselling the others by almost three to
> one.
>
> Can anyone suggest a way to glaze these surfaces without having to glaze
> fire them twice, and still show a satisfactory level of the fine detail o=
f
> the leaf/seed pod impressions? I'm making more of the saucers now, and
> already dreading the glazing...
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Fred
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23:35:00
Lee Love on mon 4 oct 10
Can you share some images?
--
=3DA0Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
Michael Wendt on tue 5 oct 10
Fred,
Get Amaco's Velvet Underglaze in the colors you want.
Brush the underglaze into the bisque.
Backwash, let dry, then glaze dip as normal.
Velvet underglazes have a resist character that makes them
perfect for your
project.
I use them for fine detail and lettering on wedding plates
and then glaze over
them with opaque white glaze with good results and there is
a thin glaze layer
over the underglaze to protect it.
Regards,
Michael Wendt
Fred wrote:
In the last batch I also glazed some of the saucers with a
milky white matte
base glaze which looked terrible at first. All the detail
was filled in,
and the glaze itself looked like hell. (V.C. "D" Base) I
remedied that
crisis by applying a liberal coat of my iron oxide wash,
sponging much of it
away and running those back through a glaze firing in a
desperate,
all-or-nothing move. That did the trick. Of course, that
color also ended
up being the public's favorite, outselling the others by
almost three to one.
Can anyone suggest a way to glaze these surfaces without
having to glaze
fire them twice, and still show a satisfactory level of the
fine detail of
the leaf/seed pod impressions? I'm making more of the
saucers now, and
already dreading the glazing...
Many thanks,
Fred
Eleanora Eden on thu 7 oct 10
My understanding here would be that the "resist character" is that the
Velvets have flux in them. So if they are fired and then a glaze is applie=
d,
it can be expected that the glaze coat will be thinner where the Velvets
are. This requires a firing between underglaze and glaze.
Is that what is being done here?
Eleanora
>
>Velvet underglazes have a resist character that makes them
>perfect for your
>project.
>I use them for fine detail and lettering on wedding plates
>and then glaze over
>them with opaque white glaze with good results and there is
>a thin glaze layer
>over the underglaze to protect it.
>Regards,
>Michael Wendt
--
Bellows Falls Vermont
www.eleanoraeden.com
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