Paul Lewing on sun 10 oct 10
On Oct 10, 2010, at 12:57 PM, DJ Brewer wrote:
I've heard from a couple of potters to let a newly mixed glaze sit for
a day after you mix it, then stir it up and use it.
Is this true or is this an old potter's tale?
Most of the time I just mix my glazes up and use them, but there are
some advantages to letting them steep. I don't know that there's any
benefit to the steeping, but a couple of things happen because they
are allowed to settle. The first is that different glazes take
different amounts of water to be just right. You get pretty good at
guessing how much water to put in the bucket before you add dry
ingredients (and you should always add dry ingredients to water, not
the other way around), but it's hard to get it exact. If you have
time, you can mix the glaze with what you know will be too much water,
let it settle, drain off all the standing water, and then mix it up
and add back what you need to get it just right.
I also have a couple of glazes that have a tendency to crawl. I find
that if I do this system, and add fresh water back into them, they
don't do that. Evidently something soluble is making them crawl,
although I have no idea what that would be.
Paul Lewing
www.paullewingtile.com
www.paullewingart.com
DJ Brewer on sun 10 oct 10
I've heard from a couple of potters to let a newly mixed glaze sit for
a day after you mix it, then stir it up and use it.
Is this true or is this an old potter's tale?
Just wondering.
DJ
Snail Scott on sun 10 oct 10
On Oct 10, 2010, at 2:57 PM, DJ Brewer wrote:
> I've heard from a couple of potters to let a newly mixed glaze sit for
> a day after you mix it, then stir it up and use it.
> Is this true or is this an old potter's tale?
Most glaze materials do not 'wet' instantly,
but need time for the moisture to fully engage
the particles and slake properly. As a result,
some glazes have a rather different consistency
a day later than they had when freshly mixed.
Glazes with expansionist tendencies (lots of
gerstley borate or bentonite, for example) are
classic cases, while others have only a negligible
change. By and large, the short-term difference
lies in application properties, not the chemistry.
-Snail
Lis Allison on sun 10 oct 10
On October 10, 2010, you wrote:
> I've heard from a couple of potters to let a newly mixed glaze sit
> for a day after you mix it, then stir it up and use it.
> Is this true or is this an old potter's tale?
>
I have a real problem with tiny bubbles in the glaze which lead to bumpy
fired glazes if I don't. Probably it depends on the glaze. At least two of
the opacifiers, Superpax and Zircopax, do not fully wet up quickly and I
find it pays to let the new batch sit for a day or two and then re-sieve.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
website: www.pine-ridge.ca
Pottery blog: www.studio-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
Garden blog: www.garden-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
Vince Pitelka on sun 10 oct 10
DJ Brewer wrote:
"I've heard from a couple of potters to let a newly mixed glaze sit for a
day after you mix it, then stir it up and use it. Is this true or is this a=
n
old potter's tale?"
DJ -
A newly mixed glaze continues to thicken up over 24 hours or so, as the
particles continue to absorb water. There is no reason not to use a glaze
right away, if you have it mixed to the right consistency, but after it sit=
s
for a day or so you might have to add a little water to return it to the
correct consistency.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
William & Susan Schran User on sun 10 oct 10
On 10/10/10 3:57 PM, "DJ Brewer" wrote:
> I've heard from a couple of potters to let a newly mixed glaze sit for
> a day after you mix it, then stir it up and use it.
> Is this true or is this an old potter's tale?
IMHO, proper mixing of materials into the glaze slurry should alleviate the
need to allow glazes to sit for a day before using. Adding dry materials to
water, mixing with a power tool, then sieving should allow one to use the
glaze immediately. If not thoroughly mixed and wetted, then it certainly
might be beneficial to allow the glaze to sit for a day to allow all of the
component materials to be completely wetted.
There certainly are instances, when certain materials are used, that it is
prudent to allow the glaze slurry to sit for a day, to then adjust
viscosity. One instance is when a large quantity of gerstley
borate/colemanite is used in a glaze. After the glaze slurry sits for a day=
,
it will most likely thicken, even becoming a gelatin like consistency. This
can be avoided by adding a small amount of soda ash to the glaze which will
help avoid over thickening. Soda ash needs to be mixed with a little water,
then added to the glaze.
Some glazes containing soluble materials might be drastically different if
they sit in a wet state even for just 24 hours. In this case they are store=
d
dry and just enough is wetted to apply to the pots on hand. After the
soluble materials sit for a period of time in the wet slurry, then glaze
will have been changed.
For me, working with crystalline glazes, fresh batches are best. Since we
work with glazes of which 50% or more is high sodium frits, and these frits
are slightly soluble, if I let the glaze sit wet for a couple weeks, I can
see different results from the fresh batch.
Understanding each component one is adding to a glaze, what it contributes
and how it might affect the glazes slurry will make the glaze mixing and
application process that much easier.
FYI - If you are mixing large amounts of glaze that might sit for long
periods, or situations where large batches are made for many folks, the
consistency or viscosity will change over time, even if only non-soluble
materials are used. Doing a viscosity reading means reading specific gravit=
y
and adjusting it during the life of the glaze. Here's a good explanation on
Bailey's site: http://www.baileypottery.com/spviscosityguide.htm
Hope this helps, Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Larry Kruzan on sun 10 oct 10
Since a portion of a glaze is clay, it seems reasonable to allow it to sit
and thoroughly "wet" the ingredients. That is the thinking answer - the
practical answer is that I have allowed glazes to "steep" overnight and I
have used glazes as soon as they were mixed and saw no real difference. I
only do this when I have to have that glaze "right now".
Perhaps one of our real glaze gurus will have the "right" answer for us.
Someday I'll reach the point in this business that I have everything "ready=
"
the day before I need it. Right now I just try to stay a couple hours ahead=
.
Normally I settle for being just a few days behind.
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
www.lostcreekpottery.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of DJ Brewer
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 2010 2:57 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Letting newly mixed glazes "steep" for a day?
I've heard from a couple of potters to let a newly mixed glaze sit for
a day after you mix it, then stir it up and use it.
Is this true or is this an old potter's tale?
Just wondering.
DJ
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
(Email Guard: 7.0.0.18, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.16040)
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Ron Roy on sun 10 oct 10
Hi DJ,
I have used lots of glaze right after it was mixed - perhaps some
would benefit from resting a day - and some would settle out in that
time.
A better idea is to mix them well enough in advance to test them in a
glaze firing - it will save you lots in the long run.
RR
Quoting DJ Brewer :
> I've heard from a couple of potters to let a newly mixed glaze sit for
> a day after you mix it, then stir it up and use it.
> Is this true or is this an old potter's tale?
>
> Just wondering.
>
> DJ
>
Rachel Campbell on tue 12 oct 10
Hi all,
Paul L. says "(and you should always add dry ingredients to water, not
the other way around),"...
I was wondering what the rationale is for this? I was taught for cooking,
like when making gravy, to do the opposite-- add the liquid to the dry... i=
f
you add your flour to the liquid it'll end up all lumpy, so I add liquid to
the flour, get it all mixed in and thin it out and so on... then again, in
baking, you usually add the dry to the liquid...
I always just added the liquid to the dry for glaze, following the gravy
approach. Then use the blunger thingy to mix it all up (kinda like my
blender? Should I therefore be following the baking approach?). What are
the consequences of each approach?
Curious... and of course, attempting to contribute to the positive helpful
Clayart atmosphere. ;-)
Enjoying Indian Summer,
Rachel in Odenton, MD
http://DownToThePottersHouse.com
http://RCInfoDesign.com
Rimas VisGirda on tue 12 oct 10
Paul wrote:
"If you have
time, you can mix the glaze with what you know will be too much water,
let it settle, drain off all the standing water, and then mix it up
and add back what you need to get it just right."
I do the reverse by starting with what I think is not enough water, add the=
ingredients and mix into a thick slurry, I use my hand to do this and look=
for lumps that I can squeeze. Then add water until the glaze will flow, bu=
t still too thick. My straining method is to pour the glaze from one 5 gall=
on bucket into another through a wire mesh (kitchen) colander until it pour=
s smoothly. Takes anywhere from 5-10 pours. The higher the pouring bucket t=
o the colander, the faster the glaze becomes smooth. Then add water until t=
he glaze is right. I've never had the need to have a glaze steep, occasiona=
lly I've not had enough time to strain the glaze right after adding the ing=
redients and have found that it takes less straining (there are fewer lumps=
) if the glaze has sat a while. My gauge for the consistency is to stick my=
hand into the mixed glaze and lift it out. If I can see skin, it's too thi=
n. If the hair rises, but I can't see skin, it's just right. If the
hair doesn't rise, it's too thick. I like fat glazes so a hydrometer never=
worked very well for me...
I should specify that my (cone 9-11) glazes are for dipping and pouring, no=
t spraying or brushing, onto stoneware and porcelain. When I was bisquing t=
o 010 I would dip for a count of 3-4. For 05 bisque I dip to a count of 4-6=
depending on how thick I want the glaze.
-Rimas
Snail Scott on tue 12 oct 10
On Oct 12, 2010, at 9:58 AM, Rachel Campbell wrote:
> Paul L. says "(and you should always add dry ingredients to water, not
> the other way around),"...
> I was wondering what the rationale is for this? I was taught for
> cooking,
> like when making gravy, to do the opposite-- add the liquid to the
> dry...
I don't know how to make gravy, but I know that
when I mix glazes (either as a small test batch or
as a full bucket), if there is dry material in the bucket
to start, it will often remain dry and unmixed in the
bottom corners unless heroic measures are taken.
If there is at least some water in the container to
start, even the bottom-most dry materials can slake
effectively as they are added, all materials get
well-dampened, and they enter the mix more
easily when finally blunged or shaken or stirred.
No more dry clumps stuck to the bottom, and fewer
dry clumps in general.
-Snail
Carole Fox on tue 12 oct 10
Rachel-
It cuts down on the amount of particles that go into the air if you add =3D
the dry to wet.
Don't worry about the lumps...after all, you will be using your blunger =3D
thingy and a sieve.
Carole Fox
Silver Fox Pottery
Elkton, MD
silverfoxpottery@comcast.net
----- Original Message -----=3D20
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Clayart] Letting newly mixed glazes "steep" for a day?
> Hi all,
>=3D20
> Paul L. says "(and you should always add dry ingredients to water, not
> the other way around),"...
>=3D20
> I was wondering what the rationale is for this? I was taught for =3D
cooking,
> like when making gravy, to do the opposite-- add the liquid to the =3D
dry... if
> you add your flour to the liquid it'll end up all lumpy, so I add =3D
liquid to
> the flour, get it all mixed in and thin it out and so on... then =3D
again, in
> baking, you usually add the dry to the liquid...
William & Susan Schran User on tue 12 oct 10
On 10/12/10 10:58 AM, "Rachel Campbell" wrote:
> I always just added the liquid to the dry for glaze, following the gravy
> approach. Then use the blunger thingy to mix it all up (kinda like my
> blender? Should I therefore be following the baking approach?). What ar=
e
> the consequences of each approach?
Hi Rachel,
I always add dry material to water.
Have enough water in bucket to match amount of dry material I will add
according to my guide to mix test batches: 1/4 cup water to 100 grams dry
materials. Will add additional water as I rinse of sieves.
2 reasons:
1. Seems to help immediately cut down on dust from dry material.
2. Lets materials soak in water for a bit making it easier to blend.
FYI - Tip from John Hesselberth: weigh out clay ingredients first and add t=
o
bucket, helps keep heavy materials from settling.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
Rimas VisGirda on wed 13 oct 10
--- On Tue, 10/12/10, terri roy wrote:=3D0A=3D0AI don=
't m=3D
ean to=3DA0be funny but, how do you tell if it's just right if you're not h=
ai=3D
ry?=3D0A=3D0AHi Terri, Good question. Dip a hairy friend's hand or increase=
tes=3D
tosterone level... I DO mean to be funny. I checked my wife's hand and ther=
=3D
e is not much but enough hair for the test. -Rimas=3D0A=3D0AFrom: Rimas Vi=
sGir=3D
da =3D0A=3D0ASubject: Letting newly mixed glazes "steep"=
for=3D
a day?=3D0A=3D0AMy gauge for the consistency is to stick my hand into the =
mixe=3D
d glaze and lift it out. If I can see skin, it's too thin. If the hair rise=
=3D
s, but I can't see skin, it's just right. If the=3D0Ahair doesn't rise, it'=
s =3D
too thick. I like fat glazes so a hydrometer never worked very well for me.=
=3D
..=3D0A-Rimas=3D0A
Glistering Phaeton on wed 13 oct 10
Dear Snail,
I use this process (dry to wet) when reclaiming as well. I find I get much
more evenly mushy clay when I put the water in the bucket first and add the
bone-dry reclaim to it rather than the other way round (which is the way I
was taught).
-Adam
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Snail Scott
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 9:05 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Letting newly mixed glazes "steep" for a day?
On Oct 12, 2010, at 9:58 AM, Rachel Campbell wrote:
> Paul L. says "(and you should always add dry ingredients to water, not
> the other way around),"...
> I was wondering what the rationale is for this? I was taught for
> cooking, like when making gravy, to do the opposite-- add the liquid
> to the dry...
I don't know how to make gravy, but I know that when I mix glazes (either a=
s
a small test batch or as a full bucket), if there is dry material in the
bucket to start, it will often remain dry and unmixed in the bottom corners
unless heroic measures are taken.
If there is at least some water in the container to start, even the
bottom-most dry materials can slake effectively as they are added, all
materials get well-dampened, and they enter the mix more easily when finall=
y
blunged or shaken or stirred.
No more dry clumps stuck to the bottom, and fewer dry clumps in general.
-Snail
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