DONALD G. GOLDSOBEL on thu 8 jan 98
I have an IFB kiln with a hingead door that has developed a space at the
bottom of the door. The space has effected the reduction and cooling of
the kiln. I contemplate filling the space with some ceramic fiber leftover
from my raku kiln. Anyone have a tip on how to adhere it to the brick and
shaping?
TIA
Donald in the San fernando Valley where frost is still a possibility.
Richard Gralnik on sat 10 jan 98
Don,
I have some lytherm ceramic paper that the company I bought
my bricks from gave me to use for expansion joint filler and a
door gasket on my kiln. You're welcome to a length of that to
fill your gap. It's 1/8" thick and has a construction paper-ish
texture. You can cut it with a pair of scissors.
The people I got it from said to attach it to the bricks with 3M Super77
spray adhesive. Apparently the glue can take the heat. You could
probably also poke U-shaped pieces of ni-chrome (?) through the
padding into the bricks to hold it in place.
Send me your address and how much you need (the strip i have is about
7" wide).
Richard
At 11:46 AM 1/8/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have an IFB kiln with a hingead door that has developed a space at the
>bottom of the door. The space has effected the reduction and cooling of
>the kiln. I contemplate filling the space with some ceramic fiber leftover
>from my raku kiln. Anyone have a tip on how to adhere it to the brick and
>shaping?
>TIA
>
>Donald in the San fernando Valley where frost is still a possibility.
>
>
Susan Raku on mon 12 jan 98
Dear Richard,
I have the same problem and am wondering where to get the ceramic paper that
you mentioned.
Susan
Susan Cline on tue 10 aug 10
A supplier and friend is working on this for me, but I thought I might
throw (pun intended) it out to the community:
I replaced the elements and thermocouple on an older model Skutt 1018
with a controller. THEN I found out the relays were shot.
In trying to replace the relays, reading all directions carefully and
step-by-step, and noting that I should disengage the wires from the
transformer v e r y carefully, I still managed to remove 2 wires from
the transformer, bringing the flange and tiny copper wire with them.
So I am temporarily out of commission.
Question: would a rookie be able to replace a transformer, if said
rookie could purchase said transformer? Or is this a bigger deal than
I think and should I consider replacing the entire control box. I have
no idea of the cost. The kiln is only 14 years old, but has seen a
hard life.
Many thanks,
Sue Cline
Cincinnati, OH
Arnold Howard on tue 10 aug 10
From: "Susan Cline"
> Question: would a rookie be able to replace a transformer,
> if said
> rookie could purchase said transformer? Or is this a
> bigger deal than
> I think and should I consider replacing the entire control
> box.
-----------
Sue, the transformer is easy to replace. The hardest part is
knowing what it looks like so you replace the correct
component.
Make sure connections are tight. Replace wires that have
been damaged by heat. After you have finished replacing
parts, visually trace each wire from one part to the next,
comparing the wires with the wiring diagram.
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
William & Susan Schran User on tue 10 aug 10
On 8/10/10 10:56 AM, "Arnold Howard" wrote:
> Make sure connections are tight. Replace wires that have
> been damaged by heat. After you have finished replacing
> parts, visually trace each wire from one part to the next,
> comparing the wires with the wiring diagram.
I think many folks who decide they will DIY repairs on their kiln have no
idea what the symbols on the wiring diagram mean and many times can't relat=
e
the wiring diagram to what they see when they look at the wired components
of the kiln when they open it up.
I think, as Mel has written many times, taking a digital shot of the wiring
as soon as one opens the box is very important to get everything connected
back the way it should be. Taking close-ups of specific areas is also a goo=
d
idea. These digital shots could be sent to the "support" folks at the kiln
manufacturer to help them better identify the problem and explain to the
potter how to fix the problem.
Paragon has done an excellent job of supporting the potter by having videos
of repairs on their web site:
Other kiln makers should follow this lead and have similar videos on their
support site.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
John Post on tue 10 aug 10
When I fix things in kilns, I often wrap masking tape around wires and
label them with letters. That way when I go to hook things back up, I
hook wire A back up to whatever wire or component has a matching
letter A on it. Digital camera pictures help too, but sometimes don't
capture exactly which wires go where.
John Post
Sterling Heights, Michigan
http://www.johnpost.us
On Aug 10, 2010, at 10:56 AM, Arnold Howard wrote:
> From: "Susan Cline"
>> Question: would a rookie be able to replace a transformer,
>> if said
>> rookie could purchase said transformer? Or is this a
>> bigger deal than
>> I think and should I consider replacing the entire control
>> box.
> -----------
> Sue, the transformer is easy to replace. The hardest part is
> knowing what it looks like so you replace the correct
> component.
>
> Make sure connections are tight. Replace wires that have
> been damaged by heat. After you have finished replacing
> parts, visually trace each wire from one part to the next,
> comparing the wires with the wiring diagram.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Arnold Howard
> Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
> ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
Taylor Hendrix on tue 10 aug 10
These are excellent suggestions by John and Mel. Be sure to label all
the wires BEFORE disconnecting them all. Simple, I know, but you'd be
surprised at what a bone head can do.
I also think those of us who are adventurous enough to do our own kiln
maintenance and trouble shooting should have a basic knowledge of
wiring diagrams and their symbols. We should at least be familiar with
the symbols and terminology of all serviceable parts in our kilns. We
should have copies of the wiring diagrams and we should go over them
with a book or with someone who reads electrical diagrams for a
living, making sure we understand what each part means.
I find it comforting to know that if something goes wrong with my
kiln, I have an excellent chance of knowing where the problem is and a
better than fair chance of fixing it. That goes a long way in taking
control of one's work.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
wirerabbit1 on Skype (-0600 UTC)
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 11:41 AM, John Post wro=
=3D
te:
> When I fix things in kilns, I often wrap masking tape around wires and
> label them with letters. =3DC2=3DA0...
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