James Freeman on fri 5 nov 10
Has anyone had success with airbrushing oxides? I have posted
pictures of a couple of pots that I just made if you wish to see what
I am trying to accomplish
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/). The "rust" you
see on the pots is from the oxide sprayed over the glaze to highlight
seams and hardware.
I was unable to get the oxides to spray through my Paasche internal
mix airbrush (number 3 needle and tip). They did spray, after a
fashion, through a cheap external mix airbrush from Harbor Freight,
though I often had to clear the pickup tube with air by pinching off
the nozzle. I tried grinding my oxide washes, various combinations of
RIO, rutile, titanium dioxide, and Gillespie Borate, with a mortar
and pestle, but that did not seem to help. I think the problem arises
from the oxide components settling in the cup and gunking up the
pickup tube rather than from particles of oxide clogging the needle
valve, but I may be wrong. The external mix airbrush could not apply
the oxide as finely or precisely as I would have wished.
I am thinking of mixing the oxide components into a light oil rather
than water in an effort to keep them in suspension longer.
I would appreciate any thoughts, tips, or comments from anyone who has
experience with airbrushing oxides.
Thanks.
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice.=3DA0 I
should not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
Philip Poburka on sat 6 nov 10
Hi James,
If somewhat differently than what you are doing, when I was Spraying Glazes
or Oxides, the heavier components did indeed settle fast.
My mixes were just variations of simple Oxides, sometimes a little Ball
Clay, Ashes ( sieved ) and Water, so I had to keep the reservoir agitated t=
o
keep things reasonably suspended ( as well as making sure nothing got into
the Reservoir which was going to be too large a particle size for the
Nozzle ).
I was using an old fashioned Hand Pump, Hand-Held 'Bug Sprayer'.
Like the one on the right, seen here -
http://cgi.ebay.com/PAIR-VINTAGE-ANTIQUE-BRASS-GLASS-WOOD-BUG-SPRAYERS-/220=
690801381?pt=3DLH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=3Ditem33623262e5
Great control, great delicacy if wanted, worked Like-a-Charm.
The only thing I had a little trouble with at first, was deciding when I ha=
d
enough Oxide or Ash material on the Pot, since what seemed like enough
initially was not enough, and I had to learn to get a more or less right
amount on, while stopping short of too much.
I personally did not like using Compressed Air Sprayers for this, but, then
too, I did not really have a lot of Pots to do this with, so, the Hand Held=
,
Hand Pump, Sprayer was not a handicap or hardship.
Phil
Lv
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Freeman"
Has anyone had success with airbrushing oxides? I have posted
pictures of a couple of pots that I just made if you wish to see what
I am trying to accomplish
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/). The "rust" you
see on the pots is from the oxide sprayed over the glaze to highlight
seams and hardware.
I was unable to get the oxides to spray through my Paasche internal
mix airbrush (number 3 needle and tip). They did spray, after a
fashion, through a cheap external mix airbrush from Harbor Freight,
though I often had to clear the pickup tube with air by pinching off
the nozzle. I tried grinding my oxide washes, various combinations of
RIO, rutile, titanium dioxide, and Gillespie Borate, with a mortar
and pestle, but that did not seem to help. I think the problem arises
from the oxide components settling in the cup and gunking up the
pickup tube rather than from particles of oxide clogging the needle
valve, but I may be wrong. The external mix airbrush could not apply
the oxide as finely or precisely as I would have wished.
I am thinking of mixing the oxide components into a light oil rather
than water in an effort to keep them in suspension longer.
I would appreciate any thoughts, tips, or comments from anyone who has
experience with airbrushing oxides.
Thanks.
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I
should not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
Lis Allison on sat 6 nov 10
On November 5, 2010, you wrote:
> Has anyone had success with airbrushing oxides? ....
> ..... I think the problem arises
> from the oxide components settling in the cup and gunking up the
> pickup tube rather than from particles of oxide clogging the needle
> valve,
Actually, I have tried it quite a lot and the only one I don't have
trouble with is Cobalt Carbonate. It is very finely ground. I think the
particles of the others are just too large. Some Mason stains work well
too. Keeping them suspended is indeed a problem, but I tried a light oil
and you need a powerful compressor for that. Mine sputtered and splatted.
Wonder if a CMC gum and water solution would help..... must try.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
website: www.pine-ridge.ca
Pottery blog: www.studio-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
Garden blog: www.garden-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
Vince Pitelka on sun 7 nov 10
James -
I have done a lot of spraying of oxide washes, and never had this problem.
I have always used the Paasche Model H airbrush set, and for oxides I use
one of the larger needle sets. The Model H set comes with three needle
sets. Also, this set has bottles and a cup, and I always used the bottles,
so I could periodically shake the mixture to keep the oxides in suspension.
I have sprayed all of the standard oxides with this set, with no tendency t=
o
clog. You can buy the Model H set from Dick Blick for about $60.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
John Rodgers on sun 7 nov 10
Vince,
Your experience is the same mine has been over the years. The Paasche
"H" model with the larger needle valve set and the bottles indeed does
the trick. I opt for the plastic bottles as they are less delicate for
handling.
John
John Rodgers
Clayartist and Moldmaker
88'GL VW Bus Driver
Chelsea, AL
Http://www.moldhaus.com
On 11/7/2010 12:14 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> James -
> I have done a lot of spraying of oxide washes, and never had this problem=
.
> I have always used the Paasche Model H airbrush set, and for oxides I use
> one of the larger needle sets. The Model H set comes with three needle
> sets. Also, this set has bottles and a cup, and I always used the bottle=
s,
> so I could periodically shake the mixture to keep the oxides in suspensio=
n.
> I have sprayed all of the standard oxides with this set, with no tendency=
to
> clog. You can buy the Model H set from Dick Blick for about $60.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft
> Tennessee Tech University
> vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
>
>
James Freeman on sun 7 nov 10
Vince and John, others...
The Paasche H is a single action external mix airbrush, much like the
cheap harbor freight version that I was indeed able to spray the
oxides with (as long as I periodically ran air backward through the
pickup tube by pinching off the nozzle). The two pots I posted on my
flickr page were sprayed with an external mix airbrush. The problem
with the external mix is that it has a very large diameter minimum
spray pattern (about an inch with mine). With my VL internal mix
airbrush I am able to get fine lines down to about 1/16" or less (with
paint), and can alter the spray pattern on the fly, as the button
controls both air and media.
Are either of you gentlemen able to get fine lines of oxide with the model =
=3D
H?
A couple of clayart members, including one who does indeed spray
oxides with an airbrush, suggested employing glycerin as part of my
carrier in order to aid in keeping the particles in suspension.
Another suggested an addition of Veegum Cer. I intend to try both.
Thanks, everyone, for the help.
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice.=3DA0 I
should not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
On Sun, Nov 7, 2010 at 1:14 PM, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> James -
> I have done a lot of spraying of oxide washes, and never had this problem=
=3D
.
> I have always used the Paasche Model H airbrush set, and for oxides I use
> one of the larger needle sets. =3DA0The Model H set comes with three need=
le
> sets. =3DA0Also, this set has bottles and a cup, and I always used the bo=
tt=3D
les,
> so I could periodically shake the mixture to keep the oxides in suspensio=
=3D
n.
> I have sprayed all of the standard oxides with this set, with no tendency=
=3D
to
> clog. =3DA0You can buy the Model H set from Dick Blick for about $60.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka
> Appalachian Center for Craft
> Tennessee Tech University
> vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
>
>
>
>
>
Randall Moody on sun 7 nov 10
On Sun, Nov 7, 2010 at 1:41 PM, John Rodgers wrote:
> Vince,
>
> Your experience is the same mine has been over the years. The Paasche
> "H" model with the larger needle valve set and the bottles indeed does
> the trick. I opt for the plastic bottles as they are less delicate for
> handling.
>
> John
>
> John Rodgers
> Clayartist and Moldmaker
> 88'GL VW Bus Driver
> Chelsea, AL
> Http://www.moldhaus.com
>
>
>
I have also found that Walgreen's vitamin bottles can be used instead of
buying new glass bottles with the Paashe H. This way I can recycle the
vitamin bottles, label the colors and not have glass bottles around to
break. If you use a Badger Model 350 you can use mustard squeeze bottles 12
oz. like the one at this link
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41QM2SB4FKL.jpg I us Publix brand
since it is cheaper and how different can mustard really be. I like using
the larger bottles rather than the little 3 ounces because they are larger
(obviously) and they are not glass.
--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
Vince Pitelka on sun 7 nov 10
John Rodgers wrote:
Your experience is the same mine has been over the years. The Paasche "H"
model with the larger needle valve set and the bottles indeed does the
trick. I opt for the plastic bottles as they are less delicate for handling=
.
Hi John -
You make a good point. I had never sprayed glazes when I first got the
airbrush kit in the late 1970s, and it was quite a revelation, and opened u=
p
all sorts of possibilities. The "H" set I bought came with several small
glass bottles, and then I purchased some of the larger Paasche triangular
glass bottles. They broke whenever one fell on the concrete slab, and as
soon as the plastic bottles were available I switched over to them.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Susan Fox Hirschmann on sun 7 nov 10
I use the Paasche VL airbrush with a NUMBER 5 needle!!!That really does the=
=3D
=3D0Atrick.=3D0Asusan=3D0Asusan fox hirschmann=3D0Aart pottery=3D0Awww.pot=
teryart.bi=3D
z=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A________________________________=3D0AFr=
om: James Freema=3D
n =3D0ATo: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0ASent:=
Sun=3D
, November 7, 2010 2:58:00 PM=3D0ASubject: Re: Airbrushing Oxides=3D0A=3D0A=
Vince =3D
and John, others...=3D0A=3D0AThe Paasche H is a single action external mix =
airb=3D
rush, much like the=3D0Acheap harbor freight version that I was indeed able=
t=3D
o spray the=3D0Aoxides with (as long as I periodically ran air backward thr=
ou=3D
gh the=3D0Apickup tube by pinching off the nozzle).=3DA0 The two pots I pos=
ted =3D
on my=3D0Aflickr page were sprayed with an external mix airbrush.=3DA0 The =
prob=3D
lem=3D0Awith the external mix is that it has a very large diameter minimum=
=3D0A=3D
spray pattern (about an inch with mine).=3DA0 With my VL internal mix=3D0Aa=
irbr=3D
ush I am able to get fine lines down to about 1/16" or less (with=3D0Apaint=
),=3D
and can alter the spray pattern on the fly, as the button=3D0Acontrols bot=
h =3D
air and media.=3D0A=3D0AAre either of you gentlemen able to get fine lines =
of o=3D
xide with the model H?=3D0A=3D0AA couple of clayart members, including one =
who =3D
does indeed spray=3D0Aoxides with an airbrush, suggested employing glycerin=
a=3D
s part of my=3D0Acarrier in order to aid in keeping the particles in suspen=
si=3D
on.=3D0AAnother suggested an addition of Veegum Cer.=3DA0 I intend to try b=
oth.=3D
=3D0A=3D0AThanks, everyone, for the help.=3D0A=3D0A...James=3D0A=3D0AJames =
Freeman=3D0A=3D
=3D0A"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice.=3DA0 =
I=3D0A=3D
should not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."=3D0A-Michel d=
e =3D
Montaigne=3D0A=3D0Ahttp://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com=3D0Ahttp://www.flickr.=
com/ph=3D
otos/jamesfreemanstudio/=3D0Ahttp://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources=3D=
0A=3D
=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0AOn Sun, Nov 7, 2010 at 1:14 PM, Vince Pitelka @dtccom.=3D
net> wrote:=3D0A> James -=3D0A> I have done a lot of spraying of oxide wash=
es, =3D
and never had this problem.=3D0A> I have always used the Paasche Model H ai=
rb=3D
rush set, and for oxides I use=3D0A> one of the larger needle sets. =3DA0Th=
e Mo=3D
del H set comes with three needle=3D0A> sets. =3DA0Also, this set has bottl=
es a=3D
nd a cup, and I always used the bottles,=3D0A> so I could periodically shak=
e =3D
the mixture to keep the oxides in suspension.=3D0A> I have sprayed all of t=
he=3D
standard oxides with this set, with no tendency to=3D0A> clog. =3DA0You ca=
n bu=3D
y the Model H set from Dick Blick for about $60.=3D0A> - Vince=3D0A>=3D0A> =
Vince =3D
Pitelka=3D0A> Appalachian Center for Craft=3D0A> Tennessee Tech University=
=3D0A> =3D
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu=3D0A> http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpite=
lk=3D
a=3D0A>=3D0A>=3D0A>=3D0A>=3D0A>=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
Craig Martell on mon 8 nov 10
Hello James and All you other folks:
I've done quite a lot of this and can perhaps provide some useful info.
I've used a Paasche VL airbrush with great results but, as Susan
said, the #5 tip is a great one to use for ceramic applications.
The big deal is preparation of the media as well as composition. As
usual, all this depends on what you are using for color and how it
reacts with your glazes, ad. nauseum. As an example, I use a red
iron ox. pigment that I have to add a lot of clay to or it will
produce a weak color with glazes having significant Calcium. So,
that stain is 50% Ball Clay and 50% red iron. It works well over and
under glazes and sprays very well. With 50% clay it stays suspended
all day long.
Another important thing is to control the amount of water in the
mix. The most I add is 1ml for every gram of dry weight and If I
find the suspension is too thick for spraying I use a
deflocculant. Either Sodium Silicate or Darvan 7. This stuff is
very useful in preparing stains, slips, and glazes for spraying. The
mix is always sieved 2 or 3 times thru a 100 mesh screen.
If you are using oxide colorants instead of carbonates it is
sometimes necessary to ball mill the works. I usually ball mill
stains containing more that one colorant too. This mixes the stuff
very intimately and also homogenizes the particle sizes of the mix,
and also, a finer grind will suspend better. Depending on the
colorants and the total mix I ball mill for 2 to 4 hours.
Another thing you can try is to use a very durable glaze with
sufficient suspension properties as your media. I used a satin
celadon base and added coloring oxides to that. Worked great. The
mix is usually 250 grams dry glaze to 250 grams of colorant added to
500 ml of water. This makes about 1 quart of stain. Glaze choice
would depend too on it's color response.
This all takes some testing and research but the more you do the
easier it gets.
regards, Craig Martell Hopewell, Oregon
Robert Klander on mon 8 nov 10
Lots of gratitude for Craig's earlier post...
Can't say when I'll get to try this out, but I'm sure I will put these
points into play when I have a chance to take some time to really learn how
to bring the airbrushing into my work in a big way.
Thank you Craig!
Robert Klander
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Craig Martell
Sent: Monday, November 08, 2010 6:04 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Airbrushing Oxides
Hello James and All you other folks:
I've done quite a lot of this and can perhaps provide some useful info.
I've used a Paasche VL airbrush with great results but, as Susan
said, the #5 tip is a great one to use for ceramic applications.
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