Cathi Newlin on tue 9 nov 10
Ha!
Well, first, I appreciate all the input on book recommendations and
considerations for salt firing.
I have some reading to do for sure.
So as you'll surmise from *this* post, I know about as much about
woodfiring as I do about salt/soda firing.
Nada.
But I've adopted a "new" kiln, and am wanting to do something with it.
I dig woodfired pottery as much salt fired, so its a candidate too.
I've been noodling on an idea I saw for converting an electric kiln into
a raku kiln, but for propane/wood instead.
I already have a great raku set-up, and don't do enough raku to justify
a bigger kiln for it.
I'd love it if some of you might take a look at my idea and give me some
input.
I understand my idea isn't tall ware friendly, but that's OK...it would
give me something to play with to see if its a technique I'd like to
explore further.
My idea is here:
http://squarepegarts.blogspot.com/2010/11/electric-to-propanewood-kiln-idea=
.html
Thanks everyone...
--
Cathi Newlin, Angels Camp, Ca
box49@caltel.com
http://www.cnewlin.com
douglas fur on sat 13 nov 10
Looks good
IMHO you'd need more volume in the "ashpit" of the kiln. There's a simila=
r
design in Olsen's book which solves this by having a firebox below the
floor.
DRB
Seola Creek
James Freeman on sun 14 nov 10
Cathi...
The first thing that struck me is that the hinge mechanism on the
electric kiln hulk will not be sufficient to carry the load if the
kiln is placed on it's side and you attempt to orient the hinge so
that the door swings. The hinge is just a light duty affair, and is
only tied to the thin kiln jacket by a few sheet metal screws. It
would work a bit better if the hinge were placed at the top such that
the door swung upward (perhaps a counterweight attached with a cable
and pulley), but then of course it is in your way for
loading/unloading. To have the lid work as a swing door, I fear you
may need to fashion a bit of steel framework. I think you will also
need some sort of latch mechanism to keep the door shut, perhaps
nothing more than a stretched spring.
Good luck with your project. It looks very interesting.
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice.=3DA0 I
should not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
On Tue, Nov 9, 2010 at 3:24 PM, Cathi Newlin wrote:
> Ha!
> Well, first, I appreciate all the input on book recommendations and
> considerations for salt firing.
> I have some reading to do for sure.
>
> So as you'll surmise from *this* post, I know about as much about
> woodfiring as I do about salt/soda firing.
> Nada.
> But I've adopted a "new" kiln, and am wanting to do something with it.
> I dig woodfired pottery as much salt fired, so its a candidate too.
> I've been noodling on an idea I saw for converting an electric kiln into
> a raku kiln, but for propane/wood instead.
> I already have a great raku set-up, and don't do enough raku to justify
> a bigger kiln for it.
>
> I'd love it if some of you might take a look at my idea and give me some
> input.
> I understand my idea isn't tall ware friendly, but that's OK...it would
> give me something to play with to see if its a technique I'd like to
> explore further.
>
> My idea is here:
> http://squarepegarts.blogspot.com/2010/11/electric-to-propanewood-kiln-id=
=3D
ea.html
>
> Thanks everyone...
> --
> Cathi Newlin, Angels Camp, Ca
> box49@caltel.com
> http://www.cnewlin.com
>
Vince Pitelka on sun 14 nov 10
The idea of turning an electric kiln on its side sounds like a very bad
idea. They barely hold together when they are standing upright, and the
incidence of failure on their side would be frightening. I would not want =
o
put myself or my students in that situation under any circumstance.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Lee Love on mon 15 nov 10
I think this upright setup makes better sense:
http://ceramicartsdaily.org/ceramic-studio-equipment/ceramic-kilns/converti=
=3D
ng-an-electric-kiln-for-wood-and-gas-firing-part-1/
A wood flame is longer than gas or oil and you need to make as much
use of that length as possible. I would even consider a firebox made
of bricks under the cylinder.
--
=3DA0Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
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