Paul Haigh on tue 23 nov 10
My (abused) softbrick arch in my wood kiln is starting to spall and drop ch=
unks, so I'm replacing with hard brick. (I scraped and ITC'd, but there's s=
till issues... time to stop screwing around)
My kiln is a sprung arch with a Bourry box and no step going into the ware =
chamber- which is great for the pots down low, but the stuff up top gets li=
ttle lovin. I want to install a grate of sorts on top of the sprung arch. M=
aybe a little arch or box across the kiln top, with some spaces in the arch=
bricks to let in the fire. I was thinking of small spaces between roof bri=
cks on the outside, and slightly larger ones in the middle to even out the =
burning a bit, as air would be introduced from either end of this new semi-=
sidestoke (topstoke?) chamber.
Has anyone seen something like this?
Thanks,
-pH
Paul Haigh
Wiley Hill Mudworks
Web: http://wileyhill.com
Facebook: http://tinyurl.com/28ggv3w
etsy: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WileyHillMudworks
Paul Haigh on wed 24 nov 10
Gary- in my current configuration my shelves come close to the firebox and =
without enough room for the heat/fire to come up it races across the bottom=
of the kiln when it's hotter. This problem is solved by stacking the botto=
m couple of shelves REALLY tight so that the flame sees more restriction an=
d evens out a bit- which means putting more glazey type pieces near the chi=
mney flue. I could get shorter shelves for up front, which is another expen=
se.
I have a sidestoke hole near the top front over the throat and have put por=
ts in the door that I used to stoke right onto side-fired pots that I made =
for the purpose (including a platter to catch extra ash). These have not re=
ally solved the problem for me so much. A word of caution- some extra air i=
s sometimes needed to burn sidestoke fuel. There's no reason you can't inst=
all 2 sidestoke ports in the door.
In my new roof (I have to rebuild anyway)- I will have holes right in the r=
oof maybe 1/3 of the way back, with a small arch ( a mini firebox) on top o=
f the roof arch over the holes. I can control air going into it, and the fi=
re/ash will be directed right onto the top shelf.
Paul Haigh
Wiley Hill Mudworks
Web: http://wileyhill.com
Facebook: http://tinyurl.com/28ggv3w
etsy: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WileyHillMudworks
----- Original Message -----
From: "gary navarre"
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG, wileyhill@COMCAST.NET
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 3:00:11 AM
Subject: Re: [Clayart] Hard brick sprung arch idea
Well Paul,
I don't know if what I decided to do in my next load is close to what you m=
ight be trying. In my last firing I set a couple of soap bricks between two=
settings and tossed sticks in through a secondary stoke hole in the door..=
.
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/uph10rl/door-stoke-hole-grate.html
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/uph10rl/door-stoke-hole-grate-1.htm=
l
As it turned out the heat still stayed close to the bottom so in the next f=
iring I'll put the soaps closer to the top of the chamber spine so the fuel=
will burn near the top before diving down to the tail and exit flue.
Gary Navarre
Navarre Pottery
Navarre Enterprises
Norway, Michigan, USA
http://www.youtube.com/GindaUP
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/
--- On Tue, 11/23/10, Paul Haigh wrote:
> From: Paul Haigh
> Subject: [Clayart] Hard brick sprung arch idea
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Date: Tuesday, November 23, 2010, 7:18 AM
> My (abused) softbrick arch in my wood
> kiln is starting to spall and drop chunks, so I'm replacing
> with hard brick. (I scraped and ITC'd, but there's still
> issues... time to stop screwing around)
>
> My kiln is a sprung arch with a Bourry box and no step
> going into the ware chamber- which is great for the pots
> down low, but the stuff up top gets little lovin. I want to
> install a grate of sorts on top of the sprung arch. Maybe a
> little arch or box across the kiln top, with some spaces in
> the arch bricks to let in the fire. I was thinking of small
> spaces between roof bricks on the outside, and slightly
> larger ones in the middle to even out the burning a bit, as
> air would be introduced from either end of this new
> semi-sidestoke (topstoke?) chamber.
>
> Has anyone seen something like this?
> Thanks,
> -pH
>
> Paul Haigh
> Wiley Hill Mudworks
> Web: http://wileyhill.com
> Facebook: http://tinyurl.com/28ggv3w
> etsy: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WileyHillMudworks
>
gary navarre on wed 24 nov 10
Well Paul,
I don't know if what I decided to do in my next load is close to what you =
might be trying. In my last firing I set a couple of soap bricks between tw=
o settings and tossed sticks in through a secondary stoke hole in the door.=
..
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/uph10rl/door-stoke-hole-grate.html
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/uph10rl/door-stoke-hole-grate-1.htm=
l
As it turned out the heat still stayed close to the bottom so in the next f=
iring I'll put the soaps closer to the top of the chamber spine so the fuel=
will burn near the top before diving down to the tail and exit flue.
Gary Navarre
Navarre Pottery
Navarre Enterprises
Norway, Michigan, USA
http://www.youtube.com/GindaUP
http://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/
--- On Tue, 11/23/10, Paul Haigh wrote:
> From: Paul Haigh
> Subject: [Clayart] Hard brick sprung arch idea
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
> Date: Tuesday, November 23, 2010, 7:18 AM
> My (abused) softbrick arch in my wood
> kiln is starting to spall and drop chunks, so I'm replacing
> with hard brick. (I scraped and ITC'd, but there's still
> issues... time to stop screwing around)
>
> My kiln is a sprung arch with a Bourry box and no step
> going into the ware chamber- which is great for the pots
> down low, but the stuff up top gets little lovin. I want to
> install a grate of sorts on top of the sprung arch. Maybe a
> little arch or box across the kiln top, with some spaces in
> the arch bricks to let in the fire. I was thinking of small
> spaces between roof bricks on the outside, and slightly
> larger ones in the middle to even out the burning a bit, as
> air would be introduced from either end of this new
> semi-sidestoke (topstoke?) chamber.
>
> Has anyone seen something like this?
> Thanks,
> -pH
>
> Paul Haigh
> Wiley Hill Mudworks
> Web: http://wileyhill.com
> Facebook: http://tinyurl.com/28ggv3w
> etsy: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WileyHillMudworks
>
gary navarre on wed 24 nov 10
Hi Paul, =3D0A=3D0A It would be easier to visualize your situation if you h=
ad s=3D
ome pictures or try doing some drawings with the Paint program that comes w=
=3D
ith Windows Accessories.=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0Lee Love mentioned about having extr=
a air =3D
holes for my side stoking too. Plugging the stoke hole after stoking probab=
=3D
ly prevented my getting the hot heat where I needed it, although there were=
=3D
other factors that needed adjusting. Making a denser setting in the front =
=3D
bottom, or even adding extra shelf posts to create a sort of bag wall, will=
=3D
prevent the flame from shooting along the floor but I needed to rearrange =
=3D
the front shelves to allow the flame access to the chamber crown...=3D0A=3D=
0Aht=3D
tp://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/uphwfkl3/front-setting-1-jpg.html=3D0=
A=3D
=3D0Ahttp://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/ca/kpap/uphwfkl3/front-setting-2-jpg.h=
tm=3D
l=3D0A=3D0AYou should be able to see the chamber profile outlined with the =
red =3D
stick pins on the wall behind this practice front setting. There is a blowh=
=3D
ole in the front of the crown and another=3DA0on top of the front setting j=
us=3D
t in front of where the fuel will sit. During the last firing the draft was=
=3D
so good I didn't see any back pressure out them so those could probably be=
=3D
my source of extra air. I've also thought of installing a drip fed oil bur=
=3D
ner to assist finishing off the soak with no ash from sticks but that would=
=3D
happen only if my new adjustments prove ineffective. My concern is just ai=
=3D
r coming in might have a cooling effect on pieces up there. However, if I i=
=3D
ntroduce the secondary fuel closer to the top of the setting and hold it up=
=3D
there with the soap brick grate while it burns the heat should stay closer=
=3D
to the top of the load before diving down to the tail and exit flue. I sup=
=3D
pose I could also use pots for the grate bricks as I have in earlier firing=
=3D
s
but breakage could happen and defeat my purpose.=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0The weather=
has t=3D
urned to freezing up here and I've been sick for over a month so not much i=
=3D
s getting done. I guess I could suit up and get outside to keep putting up =
=3D
wood for the next firing but I just don't feel like doing much of anything =
=3D
right now. Even cutting evergreen boughs to make Christmas wreaths for Mom =
=3D
and the kids doesn't sound vary entertaining. Oh well, it will get better l=
=3D
ater so stay in there and don't let them fool ya eh.=3D0A=3D0AGary Navarre=
=3D0ANa=3D
varre Pottery=3D0ANavarre Enterprises=3D0ANorway, Michigan, USA=3D0Ahttp://=
www.yo=3D
utube.com/GindaUP=3D0Ahttp://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/=3D0A=3D0A--- On Wed,=
11/24=3D
/10, wileyhill@comcast.net wrote:=3D0A=3D0AFrom: wi=
leyh=3D
ill@comcast.net =3D0ASubject: Re: [Clayart] Hard bri=
ck=3D
sprung arch idea=3D0ATo: "gary navarre" =3D0=
ACc:=3D
Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D0ADate: Wednesday, November 24, 2010, 7:31 AM=
=3D0A=3D
=3D0A#yiv801915661 #yiv801915661yiv348336511 p {margin:0;}Gary- in my curre=
nt=3D
configuration my shelves come close to the firebox and without enough room=
=3D
for the heat/fire to come up it races across the bottom of the kiln when i=
=3D
t's hotter.=3DA0 This problem is solved by stacking the bottom couple of sh=
el=3D
ves REALLY tight so that the flame sees more=3D0A restriction and=3DA0 even=
s ou=3D
t a bit- which means putting more glazey type pieces near the chimney flue.=
=3D
=3DA0 I could get shorter shelves for up front, which is another expense.=
=3D0A=3D
=3D0AI have a sidestoke hole near the top front over the throat and have pu=
t =3D
ports in the door that I used to stoke right onto side-fired pots that I ma=
=3D
de for the purpose (including a platter to catch extra ash).=3DA0 These hav=
e =3D
not really solved the problem for me so much.=3DA0 A word of caution- some =
ex=3D
tra air is sometimes needed to burn sidestoke fuel.=3DA0 There's no reason =
yo=3D
u can't install 2 sidestoke ports in the door.=3D0A=3D0AIn my new roof (I h=
ave =3D
to rebuild anyway)- I will have holes right in the roof maybe 1/3 of the wa=
=3D
y back, with a small arch ( a mini firebox) on top of the roof arch over th=
=3D
e holes.=3DA0 I can control air going into it, and the fire/ash will be dir=
ec=3D
ted right onto the top shelf.=3D0A=3D0APaul Haigh=3D0AWiley Hill Mudworks=
=3D0AWeb:=3D
=3D0A http://wileyhill.com=3D0AFacebook: http://tinyurl.com/28ggv3w=3D0Aets=
y: htt=3D
p://www.etsy.com/shop/WileyHillMudworks=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A
Paul Haigh on wed 24 nov 10
Here's a quick mockup: *http://tinyurl.com/35tldfd
The yellow arch on top of the arch is a small firebox of sorts. I would
leave some small spaces between bricks under it to allow fire (orange
arrow) into the chamber over the top front shelf. If I just leave the
bricks/covers off the ends then the fuel has to go through/past the
fuel, making burning efficient and puts the air only where needed (less
cooling).
The orange square is a brick that I can already remove to sidestoke
onto bricks sticking out over the throat.
I have taken to stacking only a couple of shelves up front- it creates a
restriction down low and allows a lot of flame movement, but this new
idea might allow me to get good effect with a higher stack.
I have to pull passive dampers of use the damper because of strong draw
as well. My kiln can get reasonable reduction, but it doesn't generate
a lot of back pressure either. Does your kiln not have a step either?
-pH
*
On 11/24/2010 5:02 PM, gary navarre wrote:
> Hi Paul,
>
> It would be easier to visualize your situation if you had some pictures=
or try doing some drawings with the Paint program that comes with Windows =
Accessories.
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