ELAINE CARROLL on fri 26 nov 10
How do I mix up washes for cone 6 firing. I want black, blue and green. =
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Thanks, don't know what I'd do without you'll. Elaine Carroll
Stephani Stephenson on sat 27 nov 10
Elaine,=3D20
your question is a bit vague , it doesn't clue me in to what you are
working with.
So there is a whole ocean of responses out there, and i'm not quite sure
where to take the first dip!.
the Dr. Seuss in me wants to respond
Black wash, blue wash, green wash, new wash?
but the pragmatist in me wants to ask, what kind of person are you and wh=
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at
is your level of experience in the studio? Are you familiar or intereste=
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d
in working with dry materials and mixing line blends? or not?
If not , I might suggest going with commercial underglazes, either in dr=
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y
or premixed moist form. the ones in jars usually have a gum or binder or=
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brush medium added to them. They can be used as is or thinned down to mak=
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e=3D20
a wash.
The ones in powdered form can be mixed with water directly. Both work ,it=
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just depends on your preference . There are many commercial varieties of
underglazes which work well as washes. Some are more opaque and some are=3D=
20=3D
more fluxed. Experimentation and asking around will tell you . If you ar=
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e
using b-mix, talk to your supplier about the various choices in underglaz=
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es
and slips which could be used as washes.=3D20
One benefit of using these products, if you are in a small studio or
unfamiliar with glaze mixing ( or basically just want to get down to wash=
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ing
and painting right now!)is that what you see is what you get, for the mo=
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st
part. If you buy, 'cypress green' or 'everglade green' , or 'sky blue or=
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'turquoise blue ' or 'velvet black' it will pretty much be that color on=
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firing. It is just a matter of exploring your application of it and seei=
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ng
how it interacts with your clay and other glazes, if you are using other
glazes. I will tell you though, you may have to experiment and test fo=
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r
awhile before you find exactly what works, becasue ,as we all know, stuff=
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interacts!
Another tack might be to make up a decent white or buff wash, maybe using=
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=3D20
your b-mix slip as a base,or a slip or glazeyou already use. Purchase som=
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e=3D20
stains and do line blends or volume blends to find the right color and
tint for you.( see the threads on Kim's white wash question for ideas). l=
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ook
at a chart of stains, Mason stains for example, and pick a few. it can ge=
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t
more complicated than that, but that is a place to start. if you have oxi=
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des
around, cobalt is for blue, chrome is for green, except when it goes bro=
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wn
or pink, or even yellow, and copper is for green too except when it goes=
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blue, black, brown, red or vanishes completely, if you get my drift!
Anyway, not sure I am hitting the mark here, It's hard to know how to adv=
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ise
without knowing a little more about you, your work, and experience level.=
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there are some great resources out there that describe and teach basic=3D2=
0=3D
glaze mixing and working with color, ( as well as health and safety
precautions when working with some of the dry materials), as well as some=
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great pre -mixed products which can be adapted for you use.
all the best
Stephani Stephenson
James Freeman on sat 27 nov 10
Elaine...
Here is a starting point:
Black Oxide:
Iron Oxide------------------60
Cobalt Oxide--------------20
Manganese Dioxide----10
Chrome Oxide------------10
Medium to Dark Blue:
Cobalt Carb---------------30
Manganese Dioxide---15
Talc--------------------------10
Iron Oxide-----------------25
EPK-------------------------20
Bright Blue:
Cobalt Carb--------------50
Iron Oxide----------------20
Titanium Dioxide-------20
Manganese Dioxide--10
Peacock Blue:
Cobalt Carb-------------40
Chrome Oxide---------30
Titanium Dioxide------10
Iron Oxide---------------10
Gerstley Borate-------10
Army Green:
Gerstley Borate-------60
Chrome Oxide---------10
Iron Oxide----------------5
Titanium Dioxide------15
Manganese Dioxide--10
All from Tom Coleman. He uses yellow iron oxide, but I hate that
stuff. Too fine, so tends to just float on the surface forever. A
touch of soap or detergent helps to lower the surface tension so the
stuff can wet out. The upside to the yellow flavored iron oxide is
that it stains a bit less than the red (clothing, hands, et cetera).
Have fun!
...James
James Freeman
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice.=3DA0 I
should not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
On Fri, Nov 26, 2010 at 10:47 AM, ELAINE CARROLL w=
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rote:
> How do I mix up washes for cone 6 firing. I want black, blue and green. =
=3D
=3DA0Thanks, don't know what I'd do without you'll. =3DA0Elaine Carroll
>
Fisher Cheryl on sat 27 nov 10
This is the black wash I use for Cone 6,
Black Wash Cone 6
Iron Oxide------------------25
Cobalt Carbonate--------------25 (I'll have to double check whether =3D
cobalt oxide or cobalt carbonate.
Manganese Dioxide----25
Chrome Oxide------------25
Here's an example on a cone 6 Jan's Red.=3D20
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http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=3D3D424270068262&set=3D3Da.418820028=
262=3D
.190782.740958262&pid=3D3D4952893&id=3D3D740958262
There are other photos in the photo album. Pictures are not the best but =
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show the black lines.=3D
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