Susan Cline on sat 4 dec 10
I'd love to find an iron saturate red as well. None of them seem to
meet what I have in mind. Cone 6, electric ox.
At least a good starting point maybe?
Thank you.
Sue Cline
On Dec 4, 2010, at 1:41 PM, Larry Kruzan wrote:
> Hi Gang,
>
>
>
> One of my standard reduction glazes glazes has been Bailey's Red.
> I'm now moving to more oxidation firing and my Bailey's Red is not
> red. Although the brown is OK, it's not the bright brick red I like.
>
>
>
> Does anybody have a oxidation iron saturation cone 6 that is a
> bright iron red?
>
>
>
> Larry Kruzan
>
> Lost Creek Pottery
Larry Kruzan on sat 4 dec 10
Hi Gang,
One of my standard reduction glazes glazes has been Bailey's Red. I'm now m=
oving to more oxidation firing and my Bailey's Red is not red. Although the=
brown is OK, it's not the bright brick red I like.
Does anybody have a oxidation iron saturation cone 6 that is a bright iron =
red?
Larry Kruzan
Lost Creek Pottery
William & Susan Schran User on sun 5 dec 10
On 12/4/10 10:59 PM, "Susan Cline" wrote:
> I'd love to find an iron saturate red as well. None of them seem to
> meet what I have in mind. Cone 6, electric ox.
I recently updated my web site to include a page of ^6 reduction glazes.
Some of these will also work in oxidation, with proper cooling cycle.
Here's a direct link:
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com/creativecreek_cone6re.htm
I noted the Ohata Kaki gets a nice red brick color even with minimal
reduction and may perform well in oxidation.
I plan on revising this page early in the new year with some new glazes tha=
t
we've been testing.
I do have a iron red that I used many years ago. An image is on the left
side of this page:
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com/creativecreek_mywork.htm
I have not listed the recipe because I know it is not a stable glaze.
If you want the recipe, please write to me off list.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
C Sullivan on sun 5 dec 10
Hi Larry
If you want to use a commercial product for red, Coyotte's: Really Red is:
. . . . really red.
Cone 6 oxidation.
Chae
On Sat, Dec 4, 2010 at 10:41 AM, Larry Kruzan wro=
te:
> Hi Gang,
>
>
>
> One of my standard reduction glazes glazes has been Bailey's Red. I'm now
> moving to more oxidation firing and my Bailey's Red is not red. Although =
the
> brown is OK, it's not the bright brick red I like.
>
>
>
> Does anybody have a oxidation iron saturation cone 6 that is a bright iro=
n
> red?
>
>
>
> Larry Kruzan
>
> Lost Creek Pottery
>
Fisher Cheryl on sun 5 dec 10
Larry, Sent a message to you yesterday about Jan's Red. Did not include =3D
recipe because I wasn't sure it was red enough. I hope you were able to =3D
look at pix on Facebook.
I'm including the recipe today for everybody.
Jan's Red is what I use. I use a black wash for line designs on it.
Jan's Red (Cone 5-6 Electric) =3D=
09=3D
Silica 20
Custer Feldspar 14
Talc 9.5
EPK 3.5
Gerstley Borate 28
Total 75
RIO 15
Randy's Red (Cone 5-6 Electric)
Silica 30
EPK 5
F-4 Feldspar 20
Talc 14
Gerstley Borate 32
Soda Ash 0.1
Total 101.1
RIO 15
Cheryl Fisher
Pottery by Fisher
potterytalk@verizon.net
Sarasota, FL USA
James Freeman on sun 5 dec 10
Larry, Susan, et alii....
John Post has done a lot of work with cone 6 iron reds. He has a
number of recipes with photos on his website:
http://www.johnpost.us/pages/glaze-recipes-cone-6.html
...James
James Freeman
"...outsider artists, caught in the bog of their own consciousness,
too preciously idiosyncratic to be taken seriously."
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice.=3DA0 I
should not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
Clay on mon 6 dec 10
I have found the details of firing to be more important than the precise
recipe used.
To get a good red:
1) The firing must be fully oxygenated throughout. My kiln door does not
fit hermetically.
2) A slow cooling cycle must be used.
Ivor
I J Townshend
in Macclesfield UK
Allyson May on mon 6 dec 10
Hey Larry,
You took Steven Hill's class didn't you? Do you have his Bailey's Red =3D
recipe? It does a great job if you use the high purity RIO from US =3D
Pigments and slow cool. Another option is a prepared glaze from =3D
Kentucky Mudworks called Hellfire Red. It comes dry and you add the =3D
water. It tends to be more red with more interesting variation when =3D
applied thicker and a slow cool. You gotta love the "Dirty Girls" at =3D
the Mudworks! =3D20
If these don't seem to be what you want, I'm with Mel and his =3D
suggestion. I have done a fair amount of testing with iron red at ^6 =3D
and to me, the essential ingredients are bone ash and high purity RIO in =
=3D
the range of 8-12%. Good luck in your search.
Peace,
Allyson May
www.stoneycreekpottery.com
John Britt on mon 6 dec 10
BAILEY RED ORANGE =3D09Cone 6 Oxidation
G-200 Potash Feldspar 46.70
EPK Kaolin =3D09 4.00
Bone Ash =3D0915.00
Talc =3D09=3D09 =3D09 16.90
Silica =3D09=3D09 11.40
Lithium Carbonate =3D09 4.00
Bentonite 2.00
Red Iron Oxide =3D0911.50
John Britt
www.johnbrittpottery.com
MJ on mon 6 dec 10
Hi - I was reading the posts about G-200 a few days back and see that this
recipe calls for G-200. I am just starting to set up a glaze kitchen and I
understand original G-200 is no longer available. Just to confirm my
interpretation of the G-200 posts and the recipe given for Bailey's orange
red - If I purchase the "new" G-200 should I use 70 percent of the new G-20=
0
and 30 percent soda spar to get the proper results or has this recipe been
modified to "reflect" the new G-200. Thanks in advance for the help. MJ
From previous post - "In a nutshell, the original deposit of G200 spar
ran out many years
ago. They opened a new deposit, but it had a much higher potash
content and a much lower sodium content. To compensate for this, they
blended 70% of the new deposit with 30% soda spar to get a similar
analysis to the old, and continued to sell this blend as G200 without
telling their customers about the change. Now, with fuel prices so
high, the new owners have stopped blending in the soda spar, and are
selling the new deposit straight, calling it G200-HP. I have attached
the supporting documentation, including chemical analyses of the old
G200 and the new G200-HP.
Your professor can simply bulk blend 70% G200-HP with 30% soda spar and
call it "G200". On Mon, Dec 6, 2010 at 9:37 AM, John Britt
wrote:
BAILEY RED ORANGE Cone 6 Oxidation
> G-200 Potash Feldspar 46.70
> EPK Kaolin 4.00
> Bone Ash 15.00
> Talc 16.90
> Silica 11.40
> Lithium Carbonate 4.00
>
> Bentonite 2.00
> Red Iron Oxide 11.50
>
> John Britt
> www.johnbrittpottery.com
>
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