Lee Love on wed 22 dec 10
On Wed, Dec 22, 2010 at 2:24 PM, James Freeman
wrote:
> On Tue, Dec 21, 2010 at 5:57 PM, mudduck wro=
=3D
te:
> I've been trying a glaze that was in clay times a while back called Millr=
=3D
ing
> Green. I fire it in a down draft gas kiln to a soft cone 10 in light
> reduction. The problem with the glaze is it keeps going more matt black t=
=3D
han
> green. When it's green it looks great but when it's black it looks bad. I
> thought maybe that I was applying it too thick but when I thinned the gla=
=3D
ze
> down and tried that it looked just as bad because the coverage was way th=
=3D
in.
When there is too much reduction, V.C. copper blue/green goes
liver red. It is black when it is applied too thickly. Best color
response is on a iron free clay.
--
=3DA0Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
James Freeman on wed 22 dec 10
On Tue, Dec 21, 2010 at 5:57 PM, mudduck wrote=
:
I've been trying a glaze that was in clay times a while back called Millrin=
g
Green. I fire it in a down draft gas kiln to a soft cone 10 in light
reduction. The problem with the glaze is it keeps going more matt black tha=
n
green. When it's green it looks great but when it's black it looks bad. I
thought maybe that I was applying it too thick but when I thinned the glaze
down and tried that it looked just as bad because the coverage was way thin=
.
Gene...
I was having the same problem years ago with VCAA Copper Blue-Green. I
never quite nailed the problem, but I recall that it seemed to be related t=
o
too much reduction, as the black would often occur in some parts of the
kiln, but not in others, and in some firings but not in others. I
eventually just stopped using the glaze, in that it does indeed look nasty
when it goes black, and I did not have control over the firing, as it was
typically handled by unskilled work-study students.
...James
James Freeman
"...outsider artists, caught in the bog of their own consciousness, too
preciously idiosyncratic to be taken seriously."
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
<#>
<#>
<#> <#>
Eva Gallagher on wed 22 dec 10
When I reduced the amount of copper in the VCAA blue green, the number of
times that we get black has been reduced as well. I think I went from 8% to
6 (or it might be from 6 to 4 - don't have recipe here) and now we are
trying even less. Thickness definitely has an effect - looking at a lot of
green recipes for reduction they seem to be overloaded with copper - I woul=
d
never consider 8% in oxidation. I think they are overloaded as the copper
volatizes - not sure if the rate increases in redux - so I think good
circulation may be necessary to get rid of the green. We find that by
refiring again to cone 10 any black - some pots are even totally black -
they turn to green after that second firing.
Eva Gallagher
http://newfoundoutpotter.blogspot.com/
http://www.valleyartisans.com/gallagher/Gallagher.htm
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Freeman"
To:
Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: Green going Black
> On Tue, Dec 21, 2010 at 5:57 PM, mudduck
> wrote:
> I've been trying a glaze that was in clay times a while back called
> Millring
> Green. I fire it in a down draft gas kiln to a soft cone 10 in light
> reduction. The problem with the glaze is it keeps going more matt black
> than
> green. When it's green it looks great but when it's black it looks bad. I
> thought maybe that I was applying it too thick but when I thinned the
> glaze
> down and tried that it looked just as bad because the coverage was way
> thin.
>
>
>
>
> Gene...
>
> I was having the same problem years ago with VCAA Copper Blue-Green. I
> never quite nailed the problem, but I recall that it seemed to be related
> to
> too much reduction, as the black would often occur in some parts of the
> kiln, but not in others, and in some firings but not in others. I
> eventually just stopped using the glaze, in that it does indeed look nast=
y
> when it goes black, and I did not have control over the firing, as it was
> typically handled by unskilled work-study students.
>
> ...James
>
> James Freeman
>
> "...outsider artists, caught in the bog of their own consciousness, too
> preciously idiosyncratic to be taken seriously."
>
> "All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I shoul=
d
> not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
> -Michel de Montaigne
>
> http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
> http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
> <#>
> <#>
> <#> <#>
>
>
Steve and Joan Irvine on thu 23 dec 10
Gene,
I've been using this glaze for a couple of years. In my experience, =3D
whether or not it goes black depends on how hot it gets. Usually a nice =3D
green, but if it is hotter than c10 it will go pink, and if it's =3D
slightly underfired tending towards black. The glaze thickness also =3D
plays a part, but mostly it the firing temp.=3D20
I like the variations myself, and will stack pieces in relation to the =3D
flame pattern in the kiln so that they will get some flashing effects =3D
either pink or black.
Hope this helps.=3D20
Steve Irvine
www.steveirvine.com
> I've been trying a glaze that was in clay times a while back called =3D
Millring Green. I fire it in a down draft gas kiln to a soft cone 10 in =3D
light reduction. The problem with the glaze is it keeps going more matt =3D
black than green. When it's green it looks great but when it's black it =3D
looks bad. I thought maybe that I was applying it too thick but when I =3D
thinned the glaze down and tried that it looked just as bad because the =3D
coverage was way thin.
>=3D20
> Here's the recipe
>=3D20
> Millring Green
>=3D20
> whiting 31
> wollastonite 4
> custer feldspar 22
> EPK 28
> silica 8
>=3D20
> copper carb 3
> rutile 2
> bentonite 2
> 100
>=3D20
> Anyone have any ideas as to what causes the black???
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Gene
> mudduck@mudduckpottery.net
> www.mudduckpottery.net
Lee Love on thu 23 dec 10
On Wed, Dec 22, 2010 at 9:32 PM, Lee Love wrote:
> =3DA0 =3DA0When there is too much reduction, V.C. =3DA0copper blue/green =
goes
> liver red. =3DA0 It is black when it is applied too thickly. =3DA0 Best c=
olor
> response is on a iron free clay.
Here is a photo. I use a dip of VC blue/green and then the same
glaze, but with .5 cobalt carbonate in it over the VC. Makes the
red a better red and even gets crystals where thick.
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
--=3D20
--
=3DA0Lee, a Mashiko potter in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3D93Observe the wonders as they occur around you. Don't claim them. Feel
the artistry moving through and be silent.=3D94 --Rumi
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