Dinah Snipes Steveni on wed 5 jan 11
I make up a dry mix of grog and flint and dry spread/comb it evenly on my b=
atts and I fire electric kilns mostly to ^6 but on occasion to ^8/9. I stac=
k batts horizontally using kiln furniture to separate. Brush off base befor=
e placing in kiln to avoid any stray specks dropping off onto glaze during =
the firing. If you've reversed your batts for some reason, make sure you do=
n't slice hand on shardy bits from pre-placing mix days. Not for use in wo=
od firings because of the draught, so those other tips are for you if you d=
o. I used to be able to buy from UK pottery suppliers and I think it was ca=
lled Placing Sand, haven't seen it at Seattle Pottery Supply. But it's easi=
ly mixed up. Perhaps someone's got a better recipe? and that would be nice =
to hear about.
Dinah
http://www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
jd.steveni@comcast.net
Plein Air Washington
FB Dianthus Visual Arts Page
David Hendley on wed 5 jan 11
I use the same idea in my wood kiln. I spread alumina hydrate on
the kiln shelves in lieu of kiln wash. Nothing stops sticking
better than 100% alumina hydrate.
I pour a couple ounces on a 12 X 24 shelf and then spread it evenly
over the shelf with a 12" wide wallpaper brush.
I built a 16 X 30 plywood box for the job - that way any stray
alumina that falls off the sides goes into the box, for re-use.
After a firing, when unloading, a shelf is returned to the box and
the alumina is brushed off, for re-use.
The draught, or draft, of the kiln has no effect on the alumina
hydrate coating, and pots are easily removed from the shelves
with no plucking.
Another plus - kiln shelves can be easily flipped if they start to
warp, which is not an option with kiln-washed shelves.
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
http://www.thewahooligans.com
----- Original Message -----
>I make up a dry mix of grog and flint and dry spread/comb it evenly on my
>batts and I fire electric kilns mostly to ^6 but on occasion to ^8/9. I
>stack batts horizontally using kiln furniture to separate. Brush off base
>before placing in kiln to avoid any stray specks dropping off onto glaze
>during the firing. If you've reversed your batts for some reason, make sur=
e
>you don't slice hand on shardy bits from pre-placing mix days. Not for us=
e
>in wood firings because of the draught, so those other tips are for you if
>you do. I used to be able to buy from UK pottery suppliers and I think it
>was called Placing Sand, haven't seen it at Seattle Pottery Supply. But
>it's easily mixed up. Perhaps someone's got a better recipe? and that woul=
d
>be nice to hear about.
> Dinah
> http://www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
> jd.steveni@comcast.net
D. L. Engle on wed 5 jan 11
Me too. Only with insulating fire brick crumbs & dust.
AKA "kiln rollies".
Debbie
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of David Hendley
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 5:42 PM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Banish Foot rim stick forever in Electric Kilns
I use the same idea in my wood kiln. I spread alumina hydrate on
the kiln shelves in lieu of kiln wash. Nothing stops sticking
better than 100% alumina hydrate.
I pour a couple ounces on a 12 X 24 shelf and then spread it evenly
over the shelf with a 12" wide wallpaper brush.
I built a 16 X 30 plywood box for the job - that way any stray
alumina that falls off the sides goes into the box, for re-use.
After a firing, when unloading, a shelf is returned to the box and
the alumina is brushed off, for re-use.
The draught, or draft, of the kiln has no effect on the alumina
hydrate coating, and pots are easily removed from the shelves
with no plucking.
Another plus - kiln shelves can be easily flipped if they start to
warp, which is not an option with kiln-washed shelves.
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
http://www.thewahooligans.com
----- Original Message -----
>I make up a dry mix of grog and flint and dry spread/comb it....
Phoenix Rising Farm on thu 6 jan 11
David,
Being a firm believer in alumina vs. kiln wash, here's another hint:
Take a piece or two of that blue masking tape. Go around the edge of
the kiln shelf so that it
sticks up about 1/4 inch, creating a "lip". Stick it right to the edge
of the shelf. It will.
Then pour your alumina.
Alumina stays on the shelf, tape burns off in the firing. Win...win.
Wood, gas or electric kiln, temp is temp...won't affect the pots.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
you wrote:
I use the same idea in my wood kiln. I spread alumina hydrate on
the kiln shelves in lieu of kiln wash. Nothing stops sticking
better than 100% alumina hydrate.
I pour a couple ounces on a 12 X 24 shelf and then spread it evenly
over the shelf with a 12" wide wallpaper brush.
I built a 16 X 30 plywood box for the job - that way any stray
alumina that falls off the sides goes into the box, for re-use.
After a firing, when unloading, a shelf is returned to the box and
the alumina is brushed off, for re-use.
The draught, or draft, of the kiln has no effect on the alumina
hydrate coating, and pots are easily removed from the shelves
with no plucking.
Another plus - kiln shelves can be easily flipped if they start to
warp, which is not an option with kiln-washed shelves.
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
http://www.thewahooligans.com
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