RubySuMoon on mon 12 jan 98
Hi All --
I have 100 mesh sieves in our community's clay studio and was wondering if
this mesh is appropriate for sieving most ^5 glazes.
Thanks for all your help!
Su
Potting in Piedmont CA
RubySuMoon@aol.com
Lookin' kinda dank out there -- glad I'm in here where it's warm-n-toasty!
Brad Sondahl on tue 13 jan 98
I recently bought an 80M by mistake, and spent a long time putting glaze
through it. I can't imagine using a 100 M sieve. For most purposes
putting it through twice through a 30, and twice through a 60 will yield
nice glazes. Clean the bucket thoroughly before dumping into it for the
last time, or the specks on the side will get you later...
--
Brad Sondahl
http://www.camasnet.com/~asondahl
Contributing to the potluck of the WWW
Ron Roy on tue 13 jan 98
Hi Su,
I sieve everything through 80m - 100 won't do any harm - just more work.
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi All --
>
>I have 100 mesh sieves in our community's clay studio and was wondering if
>this mesh is appropriate for sieving most ^5 glazes.
>
>Thanks for all your help!
>
>Su
>Potting in Piedmont CA
>RubySuMoon@aol.com
>
>Lookin' kinda dank out there -- glad I'm in here where it's warm-n-toasty!
Ron Roy
93 Pegasus Trail
Scarborough,Canada
M1G 3N8
Evenings, call 416 439 2621
Fax, 416 438 7849
Studio: 416-752-7862.
Email ronroy@astral.magic.ca
Home page http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
Craig Martell on tue 13 jan 98
At 01:41 PM 1/12/98 EST, Su wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I have 100 mesh sieves in our community's clay studio and was wondering if
>this mesh is appropriate for sieving most ^5 glazes.
Su:
100 mesh is fine for most cone5-6 glazes. I usually screen my glazes, even
at cone 10, at least twice.
My glaze instructor once told me that he thought cone 5-6 glazes with zinc
and or barium should be sieved through a 120 mesh screen. The raw ZnO and
BaCO3 are kind of chunky sometimes.
If you need to use a finer mesh, I think you'll know it.
regards, Craig Martell-Oregon...been kinda icy here!
Lili Krakowski on wed 14 jan 98
Years and years ago Frans Wildenhain pointed out to us (his class) that
today ceramic materials are ground so fine that sieving is mainly for
breaking clumps and mixing the thing well. I sieve all glazes before I
use them, because there ALWAYS is something that settles out, despite
the addition of both bentonite and calcium chloride. In fact, some
ingredients like lithium invariably remain in sieve and need to be
readded to mix. Your very fine sieves are nice; but my suggestion is
to use coarser sieves, test glaze. (Some glazes do benefit--those which
must be ballmilled to begin with) If it woiks it woiks. On the other
hand sieve your glazes through the very fine sieves, and see wothoppens
when you discard what's left in the sieve. You might seem some real
changes=for butter, for wurst.
On Tue, 13 Jan 1998, Ron Roy wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Hi Su,
>
> I sieve everything through 80m - 100 won't do any harm - just more work.
>
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >Hi All --
> >
> >I have 100 mesh sieves in our community's clay studio and was wondering if
> >this mesh is appropriate for sieving most ^5 glazes.
> >
> >Thanks for all your help!
> >
> >Su
> >Potting in Piedmont CA
> >RubySuMoon@aol.com
> >
> >Lookin' kinda dank out there -- glad I'm in here where it's warm-n-toasty!
>
> Ron Roy
> 93 Pegasus Trail
> Scarborough,Canada
> M1G 3N8
> Evenings, call 416 439 2621
> Fax, 416 438 7849
> Studio: 416-752-7862.
> Email ronroy@astral.magic.ca
> Home page http://digitalfire.com/education/people/ronroy.htm
>
Lili Krakowski
Cindy on wed 14 jan 98
Hmmm . . .
I bought a Talisman sieve, and the screen is 120 mesh. Takes half an hour
to sieve a gallon of water! I didn't know what mesh to ask
for, and that was what the supplier recommended--said it was what she used.
It makes lovely, creamy, smooth glazes, but sure takes a lot of patience
and I do get my exercise cranking those rotating brushes!
Cindy in Custer, SD
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I recently bought an 80M by mistake, and spent a long time putting glaze
> through it. I can't imagine using a 100 M sieve. For most purposes
> putting it through twice through a 30, and twice through a 60 will yield
> nice glazes. Clean the bucket thoroughly before dumping into it for the
> last time, or the specks on the side will get you later...
> --
> Brad Sondahl
> http://www.camasnet.com/~asondahl
> Contributing to the potluck of the WWW
Craig Martell on wed 14 jan 98
At 07:50 AM 1/13/98 EST, Brad wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I recently bought an 80M by mistake, and spent a long time putting glaze
>through it. I can't imagine using a 100 M sieve. For most purposes
>putting it through twice through a 30, and twice through a 60 will yield
>nice glazes.
Hi:
Are you trying to screen pea gravel or what? Just kidding!! I use an
80mesh for clay slips and they go through real fast. I've had no problems
getting glazes to pass quickly through 100 mesh as well. The materials that
we use are at least 200 mesh, so provided the glazes are well hydrated and
mixed, 100 mesh screens shouldn't slow anyone down. They also give the
glaze a nice final mix. BUT, if 30's and 60's work well and your glazes look
the way you want, why use a finer mesh screen?
regards, Craig Martell-Oregon
Cindy on fri 16 jan 98
Hmmm . . .
I bought a Talisman sieve, and the screen is 120 mesh. Takes half an hour
to sieve a gallon of water! I didn't know what mesh to ask
for, and that was what the supplier recommended--said it was what she used.
It makes lovely, creamy, smooth glazes, but sure takes a lot of patience
and I do get my exercise cranking those rotating brushes!
Cindy in Custer, SD
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I recently bought an 80M by mistake, and spent a long time putting glaze
> through it. I can't imagine using a 100 M sieve. For most purposes
> putting it through twice through a 30, and twice through a 60 will yield
> nice glazes. Clean the bucket thoroughly before dumping into it for the
> last time, or the specks on the side will get you later...
> --
> Brad Sondahl
> http://www.camasnet.com/~asondahl
> Contributing to the potluck of the WWW
Kevin Hansen on fri 16 jan 98
Hi Cindy, I have a Talisman with 120 mesh screen and it only takes
me about 3 minutes to sieve 4 gallons. Are you sure you didn't get
a 200 mesh screen by mistake? I really like mine, and if I do my
glazes in the right order I don't even wash it out between batches.
I also have the 40, 80 and 200 mesh screens because I like to experiment
with local materials and the Talisman really speeds up the seperation
process.
Kevin
hansen@aztek-eng.com
>Hmmm . . .
>I bought a Talisman sieve, and the screen is 120 mesh. Takes half an hour
>to sieve a gallon of water! I didn't know what mesh to ask
>for, and that was what the supplier recommended--said it was what she used.
>It makes lovely, creamy, smooth glazes, but sure takes a lot of patience
>and I do get my exercise cranking those rotating brushes!
>Cindy in Custer, SD
Greg Skipper on mon 19 jan 98
This is dumb but I haven't worked with glazes. Do you sieve dry or wet?
Greg
George Mackie on tue 20 jan 98
Wet!
At 10:04 AM 1/19/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>This is dumb but I haven't worked with glazes. Do you sieve dry or wet?
>
>Greg
>
>
Lili Krakowski on wed 21 jan 98
WET VERY WET. IN FACT PUT ALL YOUR GLAZE MATERIALS AS YOU WEIGH THEM OUT
DIRECTLY
INTO WATER. I EVEN PUT MY SCALE ON DAMPENED (WITH A SPRAYER) NEWSPAPER.
WEAR AN OSHA APPROVED MASK, AND, TRY TO DO THE WEIGHING OUT AT THE END OF
YOUR WORKDAY SO YOU CAN STRIP OFF YOUR DUST WORKCLOTHES DUMP THEM IN THE
WASHER, AND SHOWER AND SHAMPOO ASAP. Sieve the wet glaze. Allow the
glaze to settle out. There are two schools of opinion here;1. that some
fo the material is soluble even if it is nto supposed to be, so you don't
want to syphone off excess water; 2. that you don't want the soluble
stuff, unless it IS a glaze intentionally amde of soluble stuff, and the
water should be allowed to evaporate. Test.
On Mon, 19 Jan 1998, Greg Skipper wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> This is dumb but I haven't worked with glazes. Do you sieve dry or wet?
>
> Greg
>
Lili Krakowski
Bob Hanlin on wed 21 jan 98
I seive mine wet. A bit thicker than I want the glaze to be and then thin the
glaze to the proper consistancy. In my case .50 on my hydrometer.
At 10:04 AM 1/19/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>This is dumb but I haven't worked with glazes. Do you sieve dry or wet?
>
>Greg
>
>
Bob Hanlin
bhanlin@ionet.net
Oklahoma City, OK
Marcia Selsor on wed 21 jan 98
Some people seive dry, but I always seive wet after adding the dry to the
water. You can always add more water if you didn't start with enough.
Marcia in Montana
George Mackie wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> Wet!
>
> At 10:04 AM 1/19/98 EST, you wrote:
> >----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >This is dumb but I haven't worked with glazes. Do you sieve dry or wet?
> >
> >Greg
> >
> >
Gavin Stairs on wed 21 jan 98
....
>... There are two schools of opinion here;1. that some
>fo the material is soluble even if it is nto supposed to be, so you don't
>want to syphone off excess water; 2. that you don't want the soluble
>stuff, unless it IS a glaze intentionally amde of soluble stuff, and the
>water should be allowed to evaporate. Test.
....
Lili, if you allow the water to evaporate, you are conserving the soluble
stuff. Soluble does not mean volatile (able to evaporate). If you want to
remove the soluble fraction, you must decant (pour off the liquid above the
settled solid) or filter. If you really want to get rid of it, you need to
wash: repeatedly add fresh water and decant/filter.
Gavin Stairs
Toronto, Canada
Vince Pitelka on thu 22 jan 98
>TRY TO DO THE WEIGHING OUT AT THE END OF
>YOUR WORKDAY SO YOU CAN STRIP OFF YOUR DUST WORKCLOTHES DUMP THEM IN THE
>WASHER, AND SHOWER AND SHAMPOO ASAP.
Here I go, being contrary again. I'm sorry, but the above is a little
ridiculous. What little glaze material dust ends up on your clothes is
hardly a concern at all, unless your working in thick impenetrable clouds of
dust, and/or have a newborn baby sucking on your garments when you get home.
- Vince
Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
Appalachian Center for Crafts
Tennessee Technological University
1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
Lili Krakowski on fri 23 jan 98
Sorry I was not clear on this. I know that soluble and volatile are
not the same. What I meant to say was: In some of the materials the books
declare are insoluble, there will be a little bit of soluble material.
When you sieve with A LOT of water and syphon that water off, the soluble
bitsies will be syphoned off as well. If, however you DO NOT WANT TO LOSE
ANY OF THE SOLUBLE MATERIAL you should allow the water to evaporate, and
then you won't lose any.
On Wed, 21 Jan 1998, Gavin Stairs wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> ...
> >... There are two schools of opinion here;1. that some
> >fo the material is soluble even if it is nto supposed to be, so you don't
> >want to syphone off excess water; 2. that you don't want the soluble
> >stuff, unless it IS a glaze intentionally amde of soluble stuff, and the
> >water should be allowed to evaporate. Test.
> ...
>
> Lili, if you allow the water to evaporate, you are conserving the soluble
> stuff. Soluble does not mean volatile (able to evaporate). If you want to
> remove the soluble fraction, you must decant (pour off the liquid above the
> settled solid) or filter. If you really want to get rid of it, you need to
> wash: repeatedly add fresh water and decant/filter.
>
>
> Gavin Stairs
> Toronto, Canada
>
Lili Krakowski
Lili Krakowski on fri 23 jan 98
Sorry. I'd rather be ridiculous than couhing! When I weigh out 5 or so K
of glaze materials, dipping them out of the buckets, putting them onto the
scale, etc. all creates dust. I also tend to get dust on the floor and,
careful as I am, on the table. I can only suggest that to test how much
dust gets on one's clothes, one take them off, put them down, puts on a
mask (a bathrobe as well I guess) go outside in the bright light, hold
up the clothes and hit
the clothes with a stick to see how much dust comes out. All this dust
anxiety comes from dust being as it were a cumulative hazard. I am
convinced and will remain so, that dust on one's clothes and self creates
a dusty environment --and that if we are careless about clothes and hair
a "clean work environment" is not going to be a big help.
On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, Vince Pitelka wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> >TRY TO DO THE WEIGHING OUT AT THE END OF
> >YOUR WORKDAY SO YOU CAN STRIP OFF YOUR DUST WORKCLOTHES DUMP THEM IN THE
> >WASHER, AND SHOWER AND SHAMPOO ASAP.
>
> Here I go, being contrary again. I'm sorry, but the above is a little
> ridiculous. What little glaze material dust ends up on your clothes is
> hardly a concern at all, unless your working in thick impenetrable clouds of
> dust, and/or have a newborn baby sucking on your garments when you get home.
> - Vince
>
> Vince Pitelka - vpitelka@DeKalb.net
> Home 615/597-5376, work 615/597-6801, fax 615/597-6803
> Appalachian Center for Crafts
> Tennessee Technological University
> 1560 Craft Center Drive, Smithville TN 37166
>
Lili Krakowski
David Hendley on fri 23 jan 98
> I EVEN PUT MY SCALE ON DAMPENED (WITH A SPRAYER) NEWSPAPER.
>WEAR AN OSHA APPROVED MASK, AND, TRY TO DO THE WEIGHING OUT AT THE END OF
>YOUR WORKDAY SO YOU CAN STRIP OFF YOUR DUST WORKCLOTHES DUMP THEM IN THE
>WASHER, AND SHOWER AND SHAMPOO ASAP. Sieve the wet glaze. Allow the
Do some of you actually wash your workclothes every day?
Shower and shampoo every day? As soon as you get home?
And schedule your day according to the possibility that your clothes
might get dirty?
Shucks, I know I'm just a good ole country boy, but if I washed
my overalls every day, they'd be plum wore out in no time.
Momma wouldn't go for that.
Also, I figure I'm breathing more clay dust when I'm relaxin' on the porch
and a car drives down the (dirt) road in July, than when I'm weighing up
some glaze materials.
Of course, I'm careful about what I'm doing.
And how 'bout an afternoon spent plowing the garden?
I'm not suggesting that anyone throw away their OSHA approved mask,
THOSE CAPITAL LETTERS JUST MAKE THINGS SEEM
SO DIRE AND FRANTIC!
P. S., I'll take my 'country dust' over the car exhaust, smog, and smoke
you city folks have to deal with.
David Hendley
Maydelle, Texas
See David Hendley's Pottery Page at
http://www.sosis.com/hendley/david/
Derek Marshall on sat 24 jan 98
Bob Hanlin wrote in article
<3.0.16.19980120121342.2e4f5f20@ionet.net>...
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I seive mine wet. A bit thicker than I want the glaze to be and then
thin the
> glaze to the proper consistancy. In my case .50 on my hydrometer.
I thin the glaze before seiving in order to let the glaze go through more
easily. This means letting the glaze sit for a day in order to skim off the
excess water. This is also desireable as it helps rid the glaze of soluble
salts, always present to some extent. These salts will also defloculate the
glaze and make it hard to get a thick layer on the pot. I usually floculate
all my glazes either with acid (vingegar will work) or more easily with
calcium chloride...a little calcium chloride in a clay mix is a good idea
too; even a slight defloculation in a clay body will make it rubbery and
fail to "stand" when thrown. (wanrning: Nepheline Syenite, the great
defloculater!)
Derek Marshall
Lili Krakowski on mon 26 jan 98
Oh, really!~ Yes. My workclothes go into the wash every day. Moreover I
dump really clayey clothes in a tub that sits outdoors, and is full of
water. I prerinse the mud out. If you did your own wash, you would not
have to worry about Momma liking it or not. But I bet she'd like it
better than having to keep tabs on your oxygen tank a decade or two down
the years down theline. Furthermore: I live in teh country myself. The dust o
a road like the sand on a beach is not very fine grained
hence said to be less dangerous than the really fine-milled stuff in oru
materials. Be a good old boy, and send me a health report when you are my
age (67) and I hope your lungs are as happy then as mine.
As to showering and shampooing everyday...Gee, if I lived ina hot place
like Texas I'd probably do it twice a day!
You know it really would be nice if potters got real about the dangers of
our trade.
On Fri, 23 Jan 1998, David Hendley wrote:
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> > I EVEN PUT MY SCALE ON DAMPENED (WITH A SPRAYER) NEWSPAPER.
> >WEAR AN OSHA APPROVED MASK, AND, TRY TO DO THE WEIGHING OUT AT THE END OF
> >YOUR WORKDAY SO YOU CAN STRIP OFF YOUR DUST WORKCLOTHES DUMP THEM IN THE
> >WASHER, AND SHOWER AND SHAMPOO ASAP. Sieve the wet glaze. Allow the
>
>
> Do some of you actually wash your workclothes every day?
> Shower and shampoo every day? As soon as you get home?
> And schedule your day according to the possibility that your clothes
> might get dirty?
>
> Shucks, I know I'm just a good ole country boy, but if I washed
> my overalls every day, they'd be plum wore out in no time.
> Momma wouldn't go for that.
>
> Also, I figure I'm breathing more clay dust when I'm relaxin' on the porch
> and a car drives down the (dirt) road in July, than when I'm weighing up
> some glaze materials.
> Of course, I'm careful about what I'm doing.
> And how 'bout an afternoon spent plowing the garden?
> I'm not suggesting that anyone throw away their OSHA approved mask,
> THOSE CAPITAL LETTERS JUST MAKE THINGS SEEM
> SO DIRE AND FRANTIC!
>
> P. S., I'll take my 'country dust' over the car exhaust, smog, and smoke
> you city folks have to deal with.
>
>
> David Hendley
> Maydelle, Texas
> See David Hendley's Pottery Page at
> http://www.sosis.com/hendley/david/
>
Lili Krakowski
Kathi LeSueur on mon 26 jan 98
In a message dated 1/23/98 4:07:59 PM, you wrote:
<Shower and shampoo every day? As soon as you get home?
And schedule your day according to the possibility that your clothes
might get dirty?
>>
Nope. I try to keep a pretty clean studio. And it appears to be cleaner than
just about any other studio I've been in. But I'm not compulsive. I wear a
mask when I weigh out chemicals or spray glazes. But if I went to the length
that some suggest to remain safe in a clay studio of all places I'd have a
heart attack from the stress of trying to keep the studio as clean as a
computer chip factory.
Kathi LeSueur
Kathynina on mon 2 feb 98
Sieve them wet. Avoid making airborn clay and especially glaze dust. After I
weigh glazes, & I wear a mask, I mist my studio with water to minimize the
amount of air born chemicals. Take care of your self starting with good health
habits NOW.
JLHclay on sat 21 feb 98
I use coveralls in winter & and old PE gym suites in summer. I remove them for
lunch breaks & major in house breaks> I seldom actually run them through the
washer but I rinse them out daily. In the Tucson hot summers I rinse the gym
suits out at lunch, if I take a quick lunch the suit is still cool & damp when
I return to work. I've more house cleaning than I can manage with a shedding
dog & my slovenly ways. Clay and glaze dust are refined mostly pure chemicals
and the partical size is small enough to remain airborn for 48 hours.
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