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question for china painter's among us

updated tue 8 feb 11

 

John Rodgers on sun 6 feb 11


I am going to do some china painting once again - and in looking
through my china paints, find I have no Hanovia gold. I have learned it
is no longer available - so does anyone know of a good replacement for
Hanovia's Gold (and Silver)? What is currently being used for gold trim?
What source?

Thanks,

John

--
John Rodgers
Clayartist and Moldmaker
88'GL VW Bus Driver
Chelsea, AL
Http://www.moldhaus.com

Vivianne Escolar on mon 7 feb 11


Axner website. metallics link. Gold and platinum available. Both good
and durable. Hope this helps. Later
Vivianne Escolar
viviescol@gmail.com



On Feb 6, 2011, at 9:01 AM, John Rodgers wrote:

> I am going to do some china painting once again - and in looking
> through my china paints, find I have no Hanovia gold. I have learned
> it
> is no longer available - so does anyone know of a good replacement for
> Hanovia's Gold (and Silver)? What is currently being used for gold
> trim?
> What source?
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
>
> --
> John Rodgers
> Clayartist and Moldmaker
> 88'GL VW Bus Driver
> Chelsea, AL
> Http://www.moldhaus.com

marci Boskie's Mama =3D^..^=3D on mon 7 feb 11


>From: John Rodgers
> I am going to do some china painting once again - and in looking
>through my china paints, find I have no Hanovia gold. I have learned it
>is no longer available - so does anyone know of a good replacement for
>Hanovia's Gold (and Silver)? What is currently being used for gold trim?
>What source?


Hi John, I ve already replied to your private email to me but am
replying to this as well in case there are others out there curious
about overglaze gold.
There are still lots of people making gold and lusters now that
Hanovia is gone and we chinapainters are using lots of different
things to gild our pieces.
1. Liquid Bright gold which is a luster . fairly low gold content . a
liquid as the name implies . fires to a very shiny , somewhat brassy
finish on a shiny glaze , matt on a matt surface . There are
different formulas of this with different gold contents ...
2. Liquid Burnish gold : also a liquid but with a much higher gold
content . must be polished or burnished after firing ( with a
fiberglass cloth or a soft damp cloth with burnishing sand or baking
soda) .. has a soft rich sheen
3. Roman gold ..a paste gold.. actual gold with binders ( available
in a small jar or a small smear on a square of glass ) .. Must be
thinned to use... ( gold essense, lavendar oil , turpentine or lemon
oil will work ) ..and must be burnished after firing. VERY rich soft
gold look .. This is the kind of gold you see on antique
pieces. There are two formulas of this: Fluxed and unfluxed. (
Unfluxed will be labeled as such and is used over a fluxed , fired
surface like raised paste which is used for raised scrolling or over
fired chinapaint. The fluxed gold contains flux which allows it to
be used directly over a glaze or bisque surface. )
4. Powdered gold ...actual gold in a powder form . This can be mixed
with binders and used like Roman gold.. or it can be dusted over an
unfired coat of Liquid bright or burnish gold, then fired , to
give it a surface that is even more lustrous than Roman gold..
5. Gold leaf: actual gold leaf can be fired but it needs a fluxing
agent under it first or it wont adhere. A coat of chinapaint or
chinapainting flux will do the job ..
6. Metallic gold paint: There are mica based paints available that
can be fired and while they look different from actual gold on a
piece ( Think metallic eye shadow ), its an interesting look and a
hell of a lot easier on the wallet .. The metallics are also
available in colors ( copper, silver, red, etc ) and in interference
colors which are REALLY interesting!. I like to use the
metallics sprinkled into my wet paint and luster like glitter..
adds a nice , subtle bit of glitz.

As for silver, you want a white gold, paladium or platinum instead of
silver. Liquid silver ( difficult to find but still
available) tarnishes just like any silver does and since gold and
silver dont fuse to the glaze the way chinapaint does ( its more of
a strong mechanical bond) , the repeated polishing needed to remove
the tarnish will eventually erode it all away ...

As for where to get all of this: most large chinapainting suppliers
carry the golds and silver : www.rynnechina.com,
www.Marylandchina.com, www.Dallaschina.com ,www.paintsandporcelain.com ...
I carry several of the metallics and interference colors ..
Duncan also makes a liquid bright gold and a liquid white gold...
GOldpowder can be gotten from Andreas Knobl in germany : www.andreasknobl.d=
e/
Large amounts of gold can be gotten from Ceronics in New Jersey
...or ceradel in france : www.ceradel.fr/

There is an article on gold on our PPIO website that might also be of
interest. www.PPIO.com , library page...
marci the chinapainter

Gower on tue 8 feb 11


Thanks Marci for sharing this info. you are a treasure
Deb

-----Original Message-----
From: marci Boskie's Mama =3D^..^=3D
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2011 5:17 AM
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: Question for China Painter's Among Us

>From: John Rodgers
> I am going to do some china painting once again - and in looking
>through my china paints, find I have no Hanovia gold. I have learned it
>is no longer available - so does anyone know of a good replacement for
>Hanovia's Gold (and Silver)? What is currently being used for gold trim?
>What source?


Hi John, I ve already replied to your private email to me but am
replying to this as well in case there are others out there curious
about overglaze gold.
There are still lots of people making gold and lusters now that
Hanovia is gone and we chinapainters are using lots of different
things to gild our pieces.
1. Liquid Bright gold which is a luster . fairly low gold content . a
liquid as the name implies . fires to a very shiny , somewhat brassy
finish on a shiny glaze , matt on a matt surface . There are
different formulas of this with different gold contents ...
2. Liquid Burnish gold : also a liquid but with a much higher gold
content . must be polished or burnished after firing ( with a
fiberglass cloth or a soft damp cloth with burnishing sand or baking
soda) .. has a soft rich sheen
3. Roman gold ..a paste gold.. actual gold with binders ( available
in a small jar or a small smear on a square of glass ) .. Must be
thinned to use... ( gold essense, lavendar oil , turpentine or lemon
oil will work ) ..and must be burnished after firing. VERY rich soft
gold look .. This is the kind of gold you see on antique
pieces. There are two formulas of this: Fluxed and unfluxed. (
Unfluxed will be labeled as such and is used over a fluxed , fired
surface like raised paste which is used for raised scrolling or over
fired chinapaint. The fluxed gold contains flux which allows it to
be used directly over a glaze or bisque surface. )
4. Powdered gold ...actual gold in a powder form . This can be mixed
with binders and used like Roman gold.. or it can be dusted over an
unfired coat of Liquid bright or burnish gold, then fired , to
give it a surface that is even more lustrous than Roman gold..
5. Gold leaf: actual gold leaf can be fired but it needs a fluxing
agent under it first or it wont adhere. A coat of chinapaint or
chinapainting flux will do the job ..
6. Metallic gold paint: There are mica based paints available that
can be fired and while they look different from actual gold on a
piece ( Think metallic eye shadow ), its an interesting look and a
hell of a lot easier on the wallet .. The metallics are also
available in colors ( copper, silver, red, etc ) and in interference
colors which are REALLY interesting!. I like to use the
metallics sprinkled into my wet paint and luster like glitter..
adds a nice , subtle bit of glitz.

As for silver, you want a white gold, paladium or platinum instead of
silver. Liquid silver ( difficult to find but still
available) tarnishes just like any silver does and since gold and
silver dont fuse to the glaze the way chinapaint does ( its more of
a strong mechanical bond) , the repeated polishing needed to remove
the tarnish will eventually erode it all away ...

As for where to get all of this: most large chinapainting suppliers
carry the golds and silver : www.rynnechina.com,
www.Marylandchina.com, www.Dallaschina.com ,www.paintsandporcelain.com ...
I carry several of the metallics and interference colors ..
Duncan also makes a liquid bright gold and a liquid white gold...
GOldpowder can be gotten from Andreas Knobl in germany :
www.andreasknobl.de/
Large amounts of gold can be gotten from Ceronics in New Jersey
...or ceradel in france : www.ceradel.fr/

There is an article on gold on our PPIO website that might also be of
interest. www.PPIO.com , library page...
marci the chinapainter