Fredrick Paget on sat 12 feb 11
Dan,
I really don't know how they make it but lets do a little research
and see if we can figure out how to do it.
I imagine it is something like making mayonaise from oil and vinegar
and egg yolks.
You add the egg yolk to the oil and vinegar and beat the mixture.
The egg yolk acts as an emulsifier and the mix is mayonaise. Food
technologists would fancy it up adding other things as their craft or
experience dictates but that is the basic idea.
To make a wax emulsion we need first the right wax. Wax companies
sell a broad range of waxes mineral and organic. We need a soft
sticky wax that is of low melting point and low viscosity in the melt
so when we beat it into hot water with the proper emulsifier in it it
will disperse properly. The wax company will be glad to recommend and
take your order for a barrel full.
A company called Cytec makes a wide range of emulsifiers. They would
be a source to ask what they recommend. The bigest problem I find
since I retired from industry where I was a senior new product
engineer, is getting attention. They are generally not interested in
amateurs who will not be a possible big order. Back in the old days
when I was working I would get the red carpet, free samples and
salesmen visiting. Now no more.
Another place to look for ideas is the patent files that are online.
They contain instructions on how to make the patented thing (usually
they try to hide the one best way by giving dozens of other ways
besides the one they use.)
Something as ancient as wax emulsion was probably patented in the
early days . Patents expire and after that anybody can make it.
Cheer up , spring is just around the corner, In fact it is here
already in California.
Fred Paget
Twin Dragon Studio
Mill Valley, CA, USA
fredrick@well.com
Charter Member Potters Council
>I would like to try making my own wax resist.
>The white creamy stuff, not the melted wax style.
>Does anyone know what is in it and how to make it?
>
>No one will ship it to me because it gets damaged in the cold
>temperatures.
>Surely it is not some magical formula.
>
>Many thanks,
>
>Dan Saultman
>www.claymasters.com
--
Dan Saultman on sat 12 feb 11
I would like to try making my own wax resist.
The white creamy stuff, not the melted wax style.
Does anyone know what is in it and how to make it?
No one will ship it to me because it gets damaged in the cold
temperatures.
Surely it is not some magical formula.
Many thanks,
Dan Saultman
www.claymasters.com
James Freeman on sat 12 feb 11
On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 6:44 PM, Dan Saultman wrote:
I would like to try making my own wax resist.
The white creamy stuff, not the melted wax style.
Does anyone know what is in it and how to make it?
No one will ship it to me because it gets damaged in the cold
temperatures.
Surely it is not some magical formula.
Dan...
I recently read an article on a woodworking website on making wax emulsion.
As I recall, one melted stearic acid into paraffin wax, then stirred this
mixture into warm water mixed with triethanolamine (spelling?). Sorry, I d=
o
not recall which website I read this on (I shall try to remember), nor the
proportions, and I have no idea where one might obtain triethanolamine.
Since you are near Detroit, you could always take a drive to Rovin Ceramics
and pick up some wax resist. They are an hour from you, down I-94, but it
would take you longer than that to make your own.
Good luck.
...James
James Freeman
"...outsider artists, caught in the bog of their own consciousness, too
preciously idiosyncratic to be taken seriously."
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
James Freeman on sun 13 feb 11
Dan...
I cannot find the website I originally read the article on (perhaps it was =
=3D
a
magazine, and not the web at all), but I found these instructions on anothe=
=3D
r
wood finishing site:
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D
=3D3D=3D3D
George Frank's formula for emulsified wax is an excellent decorative
patinating wax especially for limed or whitewashed surfaces.
Melt in a double boiler:
(Suggest a hotplate outdoors to avoid fire danger!)
4 ounces of Candelilla wax flake,
4 ounces of Carnauba wax flake,
and 61/2 ounces of Stearic Acid.
In a separate glass, earthenware,
or enameled container add:
1 ounce (liquid) of Triethanolamine (for emilsufication)
to 31/2 quarts of boiling water*.
(*If your water is high in minerals, use distilled water or rain water)
Now; pour the melted wax mixture into the water; begin stirring with a
wooden paddle as soon as you finish pouring. Continue stirring until the
mixture cools and has the consistency of heavy cream.
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D
He uses different waxes, but that shouldn't matter.
I also found this:
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D
Paraffin wax emulsion is prepared by emulsifying paraffin wax (PW) in water
using stearic acid (SA) and triethanolamine (TEA) emulsifying system. A
mother emulsion is prepared at different concentrations of PW
(10.5=3D9719.1%w/w) and SA (4.5=3D9713%w/w) neutralized to different extent=
s by=3D
TEA
(25=3D97100% degree of neutralization). Upon treating 50/50 cotton/polyeste=
r
fabric with a padding solution containing 50 g/L of different mother
emulsions, its water repellency does not exceed the value of 50. Aluminum
chloride proves to be the best deactivating agent of the hydrophilicity of
the emulsifying agent among other salts including barium chloride, zinc
sulfate, and aluminum sulfate. Optimum emulsion ingredients are found to be
PW (10.5%w/w), SA (4.5% w/w), TEA (2.4% w/w, to attain full neutralization
of SA), and SA/AlCl3 molar ratio (1/1). Treating the fabric with the
deactivated emulsion results in enhancing its water repellency rating (up t=
=3D
o
80), decreasing its surface roughness, and increasing its stiffness. A
scanning electron micrograph of the treated fabric shows the deposition of
the emulsified wax on the fabric surface. Treating the fabric with the
emulsion in the presence of a fluorochemical finish, namely Nuva FB of
Clariant, proves that the first can be used as an extender for the second.
Raising the drying temperature to 160=3DB7C gives rise to a water-repellenc=
y
rating of 100.
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D
=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D=3D3D
It's a bit of scientific gobbledy-gook from one of the online technical
journals. I include it here only to show that the same emulsifiers
mentioned above do, in fact, work with paraffin.
I also discovered that both chemicals are readily available where ever hobb=
=3D
y
soap-making supplies are sold. I found several online sources. Hobby Lobb=
=3D
y
will probably also carry them.
Have fun!
...James
James Freeman
"...outsider artists, caught in the bog of their own consciousness, too
preciously idiosyncratic to be taken seriously."
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 6:44 PM, Dan Saultman wrote:
> I would like to try making my own wax resist.
> The white creamy stuff, not the melted wax style.
> Does anyone know what is in it and how to make it?
>
> No one will ship it to me because it gets damaged in the cold
> temperatures.
> Surely it is not some magical formula.
>
>
Lis Allison on sun 13 feb 11
On February 12, 2011, Dan Saultman wrote:
> I would like to try making my own wax resist.
>.....
> No one will ship it to me because it gets damaged in the cold
> temperatures.
Have you ever gotten some which has been frozen? I'll bet you can 'fix' it
easily by adding some water and putting in your blender. I have a bad
habit of letting it dry out in the studio, so I just take the dried bits,
scrape them into a blender jar, add some water and whizzzzzzz..... it's
back to normal in no time.
Worth a try if you can get some.
Lis
--
Elisabeth Allison
Pine Ridge Studio
website: www.pine-ridge.ca
Pottery blog: www.studio-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
Garden blog: www.garden-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
Lee on sun 13 feb 11
On Sat, Feb 12, 2011 at 5:44 PM, Dan Saultman wrote:
> No one will ship it to me because it gets damaged in the cold
> temperatures.
> Surely it is not some magical formula.
Continental will happily ship you theirs:
Wax Resist - Green
Ideal for use on greenware and bisque surfaces.
Thins slightly if frozen in transit; but not harmed by freezing.
http://continentalclay.com/detail.php?PID=3D3D841&cat_id=3D3D269&sub_catego=
ryID=3D
=3D3D6
--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
jonathan byler on mon 14 feb 11
apparently if you re-heat it, either in double boiler or in a
microwave you can get it to re-liquify. we have had some success with
this. keep an eye on it just in case it catches fire.
On Feb 13, 2011, at 7:58 AM, Lis Allison wrote:
> On February 12, 2011, Dan Saultman wrote:
>> I would like to try making my own wax resist.
>> .....
>> No one will ship it to me because it gets damaged in the cold
>> temperatures.
>
> Have you ever gotten some which has been frozen? I'll bet you can
> 'fix' it
> easily by adding some water and putting in your blender. I have a bad
> habit of letting it dry out in the studio, so I just take the dried
> bits,
> scrape them into a blender jar, add some water and whizzzzzzz.....
> it's
> back to normal in no time.
>
> Worth a try if you can get some.
>
> Lis
>
> --
> Elisabeth Allison
> Pine Ridge Studio
> website: www.pine-ridge.ca
> Pottery blog: www.studio-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
> Garden blog: www.garden-on-the-ridge.blogspot.com
| |
|
