May Luk on mon 21 feb 11
e
P.S. The link to the diagram
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yamerica/5464807061/
May
> Can you check that if there's any logistic problem with this? It's
> really just a lidded bucket with a plastic tube glued to the side. I
> will be scoping out the sediments and throw them out.
>
> Your suggestions comments are most welcome
>
> May
> Brooklyn NY
--
http://twitter.com/MayLuk
http://www.takemehomeware.com/
Fredrick Paget on mon 21 feb 11
e
>May,
I think your plan will work better if you lower the outlet a few
inches and stick a cork in the end of the outflow pipe so that the
clay in the water has time to settle out overnight. Then you can pull
the cork and clear water will run out the pipe.
You should get a better attachment for the pipe to the bucket as the
bucket is too thin to get a good joint . You need to make a couple of
washers from a scrap bucket material and glue them on the good bucket
and then use a threaded male to female pipe plastic fitting to hold
the pipe. you can get a nut that screws on the pipe thread inside the
bucket from the electrical departmentof a hardware store.
Plumber's glue for plastic pipe should work on the joints. Get a
little can of that and get the purple fluid cleaner-prep in the same
store.
Fred
>P.S. The link to the diagram
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/yamerica/5464807061/
>
>May
>
>> Can you check that if there's any logistic problem with this? It's
>> really just a lidded bucket with a plastic tube glued to the side. I
>> will be scoping out the sediments and throw them out.
>>
>> Your suggestions comments are most welcome
>>
>> May
>> Brooklyn NY
>
>
>--
>http://twitter.com/MayLuk
>http://www.takemehomeware.com/
--
Twin Dragon Studio
Mill Valley, CA, USA
Fredrick Paget on mon 21 feb 11
e
I decided to build one of these to see if there is a problem with the glue.
Sure enough the buckets are not the same plastic as the pipe so pipe
glue is not good here.
I used "Dap Silicone adhesive" that comes in a small tube and it
fills in the gaps and should stick to the bucket.Looks good.
I found all the parts I needed in my junk and instead of a metal nut
on the inside, I used a plastic pipe "L" that has half inch pipe
threads inside, On the outside I used a half inch plastic pipe
fitting that has a male thread on the other end to match the threads
in the "L ". Stick a short piece of plastic pipe in the outsiide
fitting and you are good to go.
Tools: hole saws and drill.
Fred
> >May,
>
>I think your plan will work better if you lower the outlet a few
>inches and stick a cork in the end of the outflow pipe so that the
>clay in the water has time to settle out overnight. Then you can pull
>the cork and clear water will run out the pipe.
>You should get a better attachment for the pipe to the bucket as the
>bucket is too thin to get a good joint . You need to make a couple of
>washers from a scrap bucket material and glue them on the good bucket
>and then use a threaded male to female pipe plastic fitting to hold
>the pipe. you can get a nut that screws on the pipe thread inside the
>bucket from the electrical department of a hardware store.
>Plumber's glue for plastic pipe should work on the joints. Get a
>little can of that and get the purple fluid cleaner-prep in the same
>store. Delete underlined type
>
>Fred
>
>>P.S. The link to the diagram
>>
>>http://www.flickr.com/photos/yamerica/5464807061/
>>
>>May
>>
>>> Can you check that if there's any logistic problem with this? It's
>>> really just a lidded bucket with a plastic tube glued to the side. I
>>> will be scoping out the sediments and throw them out.
>>>
>>> Your suggestions comments are most welcome
>>>
>>> May
>>> Brooklyn NY
>>
>>
>>--
>>http://twitter.com/MayLuk
>>http://www.takemehomeware.com/
>
>
>--
>Twin Dragon Studio
>Mill Valley, CA, USA
--
Twin Dragon Studio
Mill Valley, CA, USA
WJ Seidl on mon 21 feb 11
e
Fred and all:
3M makes a product called "5200 Marine Adhesive"
Comes in black or white, and is damn near impossible to remove once
applied and set.
Dries in a day, semi-flexible, (but not as flexible as silicone or
regular caulking.)
Not a silicone or butyl, I honestly don't know what it's made of, really
don't care.
I'll tell you this...if you glue it, no matter the material, it will
stay adhered, and water-tight.
We used it to glue PVC pipes to ABS ponds in FL, used it again to glue
ceramic pool tiles
onto concrete walls in pools, used it for metal through-hull fittings on
boats of fiberglass and wood.
Then I took it and made a waterfall out of glass block, flowing into a
pool, gluing glass to glass
and glass to concrete. Wood, metal, fur, plastic, feathers, glass,
skin...this stuff laughs at it all, and sticks it together.
Even the evil guard turtles that lived in the back yard and ate through
everything else wouldn't touch this stuff.
Fine stuff. Not cheap. Available just about everywhere, in toothpaste
style tubes and caulking gun sizes.
Still, you buy and use it once. Done. No having to dink around with it
later.
I have no connection, I'm just a completely satisfied customer...that
learned to wear gloves when applying it.
If you get it on your skin, you have to wait until it wears off.
Best,
Wayne Seidl
On 2/21/2011 5:46 PM, Fredrick Paget wrote:
> I decided to build one of these to see if there is a problem with the
> glue.
> Sure enough the buckets are not the same plastic as the pipe so pipe
> glue is not good here.
> I used "Dap Silicone adhesive" that comes in a small tube and it
> fills in the gaps and should stick to the bucket.Looks good.
> I found all the parts I needed in my junk and instead of a metal nut
> on the inside, I used a plastic pipe "L" that has half inch pipe
> threads inside, On the outside I used a half inch plastic pipe
> fitting that has a male thread on the other end to match the threads
> in the "L ". Stick a short piece of plastic pipe in the outsiide
> fitting and you are good to go.
> Tools: hole saws and drill.
>
> Fred
Maynard Leeman on tue 22 feb 11
e
can you use a small restaurant type grease trap for a clay trap? I have=
=3D
seen=3D20
small ones about 5 gallons or so. they appear to be made like a septic=
=3D
tank.=3D20=3D20
only smaller. they also have bolt on lid so you could clean out the tra=
=3D
p wien=3D20
that becomes necessary.=3D20=3D20=3D20
it seems like the grease trap would work as a clay trap. They are availa=
=3D
ble at=3D20
restaurant equipment dealers. I have seen them free when they are full =
=3D
of=3D20
grease and need to be cleaned out.=3D20=3D20=3D20
What do you think?
Stephani Stephenson on tue 22 feb 11
e
May, I had a similar drain trap, only i did leave the outlet pipe up hi=
=3D
gh,
so everything could settle, if i had it lower , I think the water would h=
=3D
ave
run out as it came in and not had a chance to settle.( i hadn't thought
about a cork though, as Fred suggested)
it worked just fine.
Taylor Hendrix on tue 22 feb 11
e
May,
This is a settling tank, not so much a clay trap. The first can go
anywhere and the second is plumbed inline with a sink outflow. Instead
of the j -trap you put in a clay trap. Wow, they even rhyme. You're
idea is simpler, and settling tanks can be just a bucket!
So you can make it just as you have pictured. You just have to drain
out the settled water before you can add any more dirty water. You
have from the outlet to the top of your tank, so Fred's suggestion to
lower the outlet is going to buy you some more volume when it comes
time to drain the settling tank. You really don't even need that. Just
let your buckets settle then decant the top using good old-fashioned
muscles.
If you're making the pipe addition for (less muscle work) ease of
discharging the clarified water, why not find an inexpensive valve
(plastic) that you can add to the bucket just above where you want to
settle out solids then open it for draining once everything has
cleared up? a bit more expensive than pipe and a cork, but not much.
Taylor, in Rockport TX
wirerabbit1 on Skype (-0600 UTC)
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
On Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 10:35 AM, May Luk wrote:
... This morning I have finally come up with a simple design for under 10
> dollars. This is to be placed inside the bathtub where nobody takes a
> shower anymore.
>
...
Steve Mills on tue 22 feb 11
e
I use a 2 bucket system; a large size bucket with an outlet near the top wi=
t=3D
h a smaller one sitting on a brick inside it.=3D20
Waste water goes into the smaller one where the heavy stuff settles, overfl=
o=3D
ws into the larger one, then flows thro' the outlet to waste.=3D20
Very simple cheap and effective.=3D20
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my Ipod touch
On 21 Feb 2011, at 16:35, May Luk wrote:
> Hello all;
>=3D20
> I have a studio without water at the back of a carriage house. There
> is a regular bathroom at the front I can use. (ie; no work room sink,
> but a small bathroom sink plus a bathtub) This bathroom is only for
> the studio workers and I think I am the only one using it. For the
> time being I am using the toilet to throw out my dirty water. The
> potter who has been doing this for ten years and there is no sewage
> problem (yet)
>=3D20
> I have been thinking about the sink trap, as I used to have it in
> other studios and it just make me feel better about my water usage.
> This morning I have finally come up with a simple design for under 10
> dollars. This is to be placed inside the bathtub where nobody takes a
> shower anymore.
>=3D20
> Can you check that if there's any logistic problem with this? It's
> really just a lidded bucket with a plastic tube glued to the side. I
> will be scoping out the sediments and throw them out.
>=3D20
> Your suggestions comments are most welcome
>=3D20
> May
> Brooklyn NY
> --
> http://twitter.com/MayLuk
> http://www.takemehomeware.com/
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