Dan Saultman on sun 27 feb 11
The emulsion-style wax resist dries completely clear. other than a
slight sheen, it is hard to tell what you have waxed and what you
haven't. Consequently I tried yellow food coloring, which worked, to
give the wax resist a tint of yellow. Unfortunately, over time, the
food coloring (being an organic compound) began to turn my wax resist
moldy - black moldy! And cheesey-like clumps appeared.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a dye that I could use for coloring
wax resist that would not create a moldy mess?
How about a water color dye like Dr. Martins?
Thanks for your thoughts.
Dan Saultman
Deetroit - Land of Ice & Snow.
www.claymasters.com
Patty on sun 27 feb 11
I used blue ink.
Patty Kaliher
Karen Gringhuis on mon 28 feb 11
I use Higgins drawing ink, both indelible and non-indelible. I color onl=
=3D
y
small batches at a time so can't speak to spoilage but it seems unlikely.=
=3D
=3D20=3D20
I use black to color wax + alumina using this first to prevent chipping o=
=3D
n
bottom of porcelain pots (it acts like micro ball bearings) - but it must=
=3D
NOT touch the glaze edge. Once this dries I wax over it as usual w/ red.=
=3D
Rimas VisGirda on tue 1 mar 11
Mason stains are refractory stains that will not burn out and will leave th=
=3D
eir (colored) residue on whatever area is waxed. I use food coloring to col=
=3D
or my (Ceramul-A) wax and have no rotting or clumping problems; my wax ofte=
=3D
n sits in the jar for a year or more. Not all "wax resists" are the same. I=
=3D
have found that yellow is too "light" a color for me, but that's just me. =
=3D
I have also used india ink and watercolor when I couldn't find food colorin=
=3D
g in a foreign country. Wax resists are water base and the colorant needs t=
=3D
o be compatible, melting a crayon makes no sense, and whatever material you=
=3D
use needs to be water soluble and organic to burn out during the firing. -=
=3D
Rimas=3D0A=3D0AColor your Wax Resist?=3DA0 Maybe try a little bit of some M=
ason s=3D
tain or=3D0Aother. Dye from a drugstore. melt a crayon. check the internet =
fo=3D
r=3D0Awhat makes a good dye. Mason stain would be the easiest, I think.=3D0=
Akar=3D
in
Lee on tue 1 mar 11
On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 10:42 AM, Dan Saultman wrote:
> The emulsion-style wax resist dries completely clear. other than a
> slight sheen, it is hard to tell what you have waxed and what you
> haven't. Consequently I tried yellow food coloring, which worked, to
In Mashiko, when you bought the resist, they gave you a little packet
of blue powered to put in it. I am wondering if something like
indigo Rit dye would work? I'd test a little first.
Has anybody had luck mixing glaze and/or oxides and resist,
to put down color that isn't cover by glaze put over it?
--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
L TURNER on tue 1 mar 11
Lee asked:
> =3DA0 =3DA0 Has anybody had luck mixing glaze and/or oxides and resist,
> to put down color that isn't cover by glaze put over it?
>
I have used oil pastels as resist followed by dipping in glaze and
they work very well. They have heavy loads of pigments. Cobalt and the
umbers work quite well.
I imagine that adding oxides to wax would work, but the mixture might
become too viscous to handle easily. I suspect that a heavy artist
oil medium would be better than wax for this purpose.
Regards,
L. Turner
The Woodlands, TX
Lee on tue 1 mar 11
On Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 10:47 AM, L TURNER wro=
=3D
te:
> Lee asked:
>> =3DA0 =3DA0 Has anybody had luck mixing glaze and/or oxides and resist,
>> to put down color that isn't cover by glaze put over it?
>>
> I have used oil pastels as resist followed by dipping in glaze and
> they work very well. They have heavy loads of pigments. Cobalt and the
> umbers work quite well.
>
> I imagine that adding oxides to wax would work, but the mixture might
> become too viscous to handle easily. =3DA0I suspect that a heavy artist
> oil medium would be better than wax for this purpose.
Thanks L. Encaustic painting made me think of it. They use beeswax:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Encaustic_painting
Europeans mistakenly thought middleeastern tiles were made with a
similar process:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Encaustic_tile
I have beeswax. The W. Master at my masonic lodge works in
batik. Says his mix is half beeswax and half wax. I have both and
will give it a try.
Jame's experiments with glaze and oil makes me think that it
wouldn't resist very well.
--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
James Freeman on tue 1 mar 11
On Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 11:47 AM, L TURNER wrot=
e:
> Lee asked:
> > Has anybody had luck mixing glaze and/or oxides and resist,
> > to put down color that isn't cover by glaze put over it?
> >
>
I have mixed oxides into wax resist with good effect. The technique is
called "Cuerda Seca", which I believe translates to "dry cord", and I
believe it originated in Persia. One draws patterns or outlines on the pot
with the colored wax, then infills or applies an overall glaze to the
piece. The glaze pulls away from the wax, resulting in a "coloring book"
sort of effect with black (or other) colored dry lines surrounding fields o=
f
glaze color. Viscous glazes are best for this technique. Aftosa sells
pre-colored black wax resist, which I have also used successfully, though i=
t
is a bit thin for what I wanted it for. A tile maker I met years ago
employed the same technique, but with oxides mixed into strong copperplate
oil, which she silk screened onto the tile blanks. She infilled with
commercial underglazes, which were resisted by the copperplate oil (a paste=
,
really), yielding the same Cuerda Seca effect. I have not tried the Cuerda
Seca technique with Mason stains mixed into the wax, but I am fairly certai=
n
that they too would leave a dry, colored, resisted line.
On the topic of food coloring mixed in wax, I do not see how it could cause
the clotting and rotting attributed to it. I suspect something else
happened to the wax. Food coloring is simply synthetically produced
chemical dye. When one sees the word "organic" applied to such stuff, know
that it only means that the molecule or compound contains carbon. It does
not mean that it is plant or animal based. Note that the wax itself is
"organic", in that it is a hydrocarbon. I do not think there is anything i=
n
the various approved food dyes that could promote rotting. I have a jar of
Michelman's wax resist, colored with blue food coloring, that is at least 5
years old, and it has suffered no ill effects.
Another possibility for coloring wax emulsion would be aniline dyes. These
are readily available from woodworking suppliers, in a decent array of
colors, and are sold as wood dye. They are available as a dry powder in tw=
o
forms, water-soluble, and alcohol-soluble. The water soluble form should
work perfectly. They are also sold in liquid form. They are relatively
inexpensive, and extremely powerful colorants. I have black and purple on
hand from a previous project, and will apply some of each to a test tile an=
d
put it in my next bisque kiln (a couple of days from now) to make sure it
burns out cleanly. I shall report back with the results.
All the best.
...James
James Freeman
"...outsider artists, caught in the bog of their own consciousness, too
preciously idiosyncratic to be taken seriously."
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
Ric Swenson on wed 2 mar 11
use dyes for cloth....they are simple....biodegradable and leave no trace a=
fter firing....
I use them in glazes and wax emulsions
ric
http:blog.sina.com.cn/ricswenson
"...then fiery expedition be my wing, ..."
-Wm. Shakespeare, RICHARD III, Act IV Scene III
Richard H. ("Ric") Swenson, Teacher,
Office of International Cooperation and Exchange of Jingdezhen Ceramic Inst=
itute,
TaoYang Road, Eastern Suburb, Jingdezhen City.
JiangXi Province, P.R. of China.
Postal code 333001.
Mobile/cellular phone : 86 13767818872
< RicSwenson0823@hotmail.com>
http://www.jci.jx.cn
> Date: Tue, 1 Mar 2011 12:05:14 -0600
> From: cwiddershins@GMAIL.COM
> Subject: Re: Coloring Wax Resist
> To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
>
> On Tue, Mar 1, 2011 at 10:47 AM, L TURNER w=
rote:
> > Lee asked:
> >> Has anybody had luck mixing glaze and/or oxides and resist,
> >> to put down color that isn't cover by glaze put over it?
> >>
> > I have used oil pastels as resist followed by dipping in glaze and
> > they work very well. They have heavy loads of pigments. Cobalt and the
> > umbers work quite well.
> >
> > I imagine that adding oxides to wax would work, but the mixture might
> > become too viscous to handle easily. I suspect that a heavy artist
> > oil medium would be better than wax for this purpose.
>
> Thanks L. Encaustic painting made me think of it. They use beeswax:
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Encaustic_painting
>
> Europeans mistakenly thought middleeastern tiles were made with a
> similar process:
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Encaustic_tile
>
> I have beeswax. The W. Master at my masonic lodge works in
> batik. Says his mix is half beeswax and half wax. I have both and
> will give it a try.
> Jame's experiments with glaze and oil makes me think that it
> wouldn't resist very well.
>
> --
> Lee Love in Minneapolis
> http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
>
> "Ta tIr na n-=A8=AEg ar chul an tI=A1=AAtIr dlainn trina ch=A8=A6ile"=A1=
=AAthat is, "The
> land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
> within itself." -- John O'Donohue
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