Vince Pitelka on mon 28 feb 11
David Hendley wrote:
"I am not a fan of pop rivets because they are so weak and flimsy. I can =
=3D
usually figure out a way to use a screw or a bolt to get the job done =3D
and it is free because there are always screws lying around."
David -=3D20
The right pop-rivet used for the right application is not weak or flimsy =
=3D
at all. They are extremely useful and effective in many situations, and =
=3D
very strong when properly installed. Several stainless-steel pop-rivets =
=3D
on each "hose-clamp" attachment point would work better than screws. =3D
You have a knack for such things, and would probably re-tighten the =3D
screws periodically as a matter of habit, but for most people the =3D
pop-rivets would be a better solution for a trouble-free fix. =3D20
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu=3D20
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
Taylor Hendrix on mon 28 feb 11
Greetings to the collective brain,
I have a question: Which pop rivet should I use to reattach the hose
clamp holding the stainless steel band around a kiln lid - aluminum or
steel? The old spot welds gave out on one side and I am getting
cracking of the lid near the hinges. This is the art center's small
bisque kiln and needs to be kept in working order for a bit longer.
I'd think the steel rivets would be better for the hot kiln, but I bet
the aluminum ones are easier to pop.
I'll get to the fix soon, but right now I'm helping install this
year's Rising Eyes of Texas show. This is my favorite show of the year
(not counting the clay show in Feb). I love to see what the younguns
are up to. Come check us out if your in the neighborhood.
www.rockportartcenter.com
Taylor, in Rockport TX
wirerabbit1 on Skype (-0600 UTC)
http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
Vince Pitelka on mon 28 feb 11
Taylor Hendrix wrote:=3D20
"I have a question: Which pop rivet should I use to reattach the hose =3D
clamp holding the stainless steel band around a kiln lid - aluminum or =3D
steel? The old spot welds gave out on one side and I am getting cracking =
=3D
of the lid near the hinges. This is the art center's small bisque kiln =3D
and needs to be kept in working order for a bit longer. I'd think the =3D
steel rivets would be better for the hot kiln, but I bet the aluminum =3D
ones are easier to pop."
Taylor -=3D20
It shouldn't be a question of which is easier to pop. I am a little =3D
concerned about the shear-strength of the aluminum rivets, but am =3D
equally concerned about corrosion of steel rivets. If it were me, I =3D
would go to the trouble to get stainless steel pop rivets. If I =3D
couldn't get stainless, I'd use the aluminum pop rivets and use three on =
=3D
each end of the hose-clamp bands. =3D20
- Vince
Vince Pitelka
Appalachian Center for Craft
Tennessee Tech University
vpitelka@dtccom.net; wpitelka@tntech.edu=3D20
http://iweb.tntech.edu/wpitelka
WJ Seidl on mon 28 feb 11
Taylor:
What material is your band made from? Steel? Then use steel rivets.
Reason?
Roughly the same expansion/contraction characteristics, and no corrosion
from dissimilar metals during those heating/cooling cycles (with the
attending moisture down there in RockRock.)
I found out that steel/aluminum wasn't a good mix in FL, with the salt air.
Just my 15-1/2 cents, adjusted for our current "no inflation".
Best,
Wayne Seidl
who just finished shoveling another 8 inches of "rain" the weather
people promised
wasn't going to be snow. Where's that lying groundhog??!
On 2/28/2011 4:32 PM, Taylor Hendrix wrote:
> Greetings to the collective brain,
>
> I have a question: Which pop rivet should I use to reattach the hose
> clamp holding the stainless steel band around a kiln lid - aluminum or
> steel? The old spot welds gave out on one side and I am getting
> cracking of the lid near the hinges. This is the art center's small
> bisque kiln and needs to be kept in working order for a bit longer.
>
> I'd think the steel rivets would be better for the hot kiln, but I bet
> the aluminum ones are easier to pop.
>
> I'll get to the fix soon, but right now I'm helping install this
> year's Rising Eyes of Texas show. This is my favorite show of the year
> (not counting the clay show in Feb). I love to see what the younguns
> are up to. Come check us out if your in the neighborhood.
> www.rockportartcenter.com
>
>
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> wirerabbit1 on Skype (-0600 UTC)
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
>
>
David Hendley on mon 28 feb 11
Taylor, here's what I did, has worked fine for many years, and is,
in the end, I think, more durable:
Just drill an undersized hole and insert a standard sheet metal screw
(zinc plated steel). It will bite into the firebrick a little, but who
cares,
it might even make things more stable. Should the screw rust and
corrode over the years, just replace it with a new one - no muss,
no fuss.
I am not a fan of pop rivets because they are so weak and flimsy.
I can usually figure out a way to use a screw or a bolt to get the job
done and it is free because there are always screws lying around.
David Hendley
david@farmpots.com
http://www.farmpots.com
http://www.thewahooligans.com
----- Original Message -----
> I have a question: Which pop rivet should I use to reattach the hose
> clamp holding the stainless steel band around a kiln lid - aluminum or
> steel? The old spot welds gave out on one side and I am getting
> cracking of the lid near the hinges. This is the art center's small
> bisque kiln and needs to be kept in working order for a bit longer.
>
> I'd think the steel rivets would be better for the hot kiln, but I bet
> the aluminum ones are easier to pop.
ivor and olive lewis on tue 1 mar 11
Dear Taylor Hendrix,
Assuming the working temperature on the outside of the kiln is not in exces=
s
of about 300 deg C I would choose Aluminium Rivets. Steel rivets will
corrode under the influence of water vapour in the atmosphere and from that
which diffuses through the refractories.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis,
REDHILL,
South Australia
Steve Slatin on tue 1 mar 11
Taylor --
Of course you don't want corrosion ...
One of the issues involving corrosion is galvanic charge.
Different metals generally have differing charges, and
you will get somewhat to a whole lot more corrosion
with different metals than with the same metal.
The difference is governed by atmosphere (fewer
problems if dry and salt-free), heat (hot is worst)
and the difference in charge of the two materials
(a wider difference is more of a problem).
Steve Slatin --
Steve Mills on tue 1 mar 11
I used Aluminium on our venerable Olympic on the body as well as the lid- n=
o=3D
problems, and that was more than 100 firings ago!
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my Ipod touch
On 28 Feb 2011, at 21:32, Taylor Hendrix wrote:
> Greetings to the collective brain,
>=3D20
> I have a question: Which pop rivet should I use to reattach the hose
> clamp holding the stainless steel band around a kiln lid - aluminum or
> steel? The old spot welds gave out on one side and I am getting
> cracking of the lid near the hinges. This is the art center's small
> bisque kiln and needs to be kept in working order for a bit longer.
>=3D20
> I'd think the steel rivets would be better for the hot kiln, but I bet
> the aluminum ones are easier to pop.
>=3D20
> I'll get to the fix soon, but right now I'm helping install this
> year's Rising Eyes of Texas show. This is my favorite show of the year
> (not counting the clay show in Feb). I love to see what the younguns
> are up to. Come check us out if your in the neighborhood.
> www.rockportartcenter.com
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Taylor, in Rockport TX
> wirerabbit1 on Skype (-0600 UTC)
> http://wirerabbit.blogspot.com
> http://wirerabbitpots.blogspot.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/wirerabbit/
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