Peggy Thompson on sat 12 mar 11
What kind of saw would be appropriate to cut the thicker version I am
asking because the literature at Lowe's has directions only in Spanish
and I am not fluent and no sawing photos.I am hoping to make bats
square and round out of it.
Thanks in advance.
Margaret in SC
Follow your dreams like there is no tomorrow
Live your days as though this will be your last
Randall Moody on sat 12 mar 11
On Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 11:33 AM, Peggy Thompson w=
rote:
> What kind of saw would be appropriate to cut the thicker version I am
> asking because the literature at Lowe's has directions only in Spanish
> and I am not fluent and no sawing photos.I am hoping to make bats
> square and round out of it.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Margaret in SC
>
> Follow your dreams like there is no tomorrow
> Live your days as though this will be your last
>
I used cheap jigsaw blades. Fairly large tooth size. I recommend cheap ones
since the backer board really eats them up. Make sure that you wear a mask
and cut them outside as the amount of dust is amazing!
--
Randall in Atlanta
http://wrandallmoody.com
Steve Slatin on sat 12 mar 11
Peggy --
For straight cuts, the easiest way I found to deal with
backer board was to use a carbide tip scoring tool, and
score several times with a straightedge as a guide. Then
I put the board with the scoring just slightly over the
edge of my worktable and pressed down simultaneously on
the supported and unsupported part of the backer board and
it broke fairly cleanly right on the scored line.
If you're doing a lot of cutting, you can use a circular
saw, but that generates quite a bit of dust.
I have not done round cuts, but have heard that a
sabre saw (jigsaw) works well.
Steve Slatin --
--- On Sat, 3/12/11, Peggy Thompson wrote:
> What kind of saw would be appropriate
> to cut the thicker version I am
> asking because the literature at Lowe's has directions only
> in Spanish ...
Stephani Stephenson on sun 13 mar 11
If you are referring to hardibacker, a utility knife drawn along a metal=
=3D
straight edge will work.=3D20
actually they sell a handy tool, which is a beefed up type of utility kni=
=3D
fe.
it is more rigid and must have a carborundum, etc tip. i cannot remember =
=3D
the
exact name, but it is basically a draw knife and sells for under ten buck=
=3D
s.
just clamp your straight edge onto the backer board and make a few passes=
=3D
with the draw knife. don't try to cut through the whole thing all at once=
=3D
.=3D20
you will find that all you have to do is cut about halfway through, then=
=3D
place the board over the edge of a table or sturdy board and apply press=
=3D
ure
to 'snap ' it apart. i say snap, but really it is more of a soft snap, s=
=3D
ort
of 'oof' it apart, if you will. :)
a saw creates a lot of dust, which you don't necessarily need.
if you don't like the bit of raggedy edge from the 'oof', just file it of=
=3D
f
with a sureform
Stephani Stephenson
http://www.revivaltileworks.com
Revival Arts Studio
Lee on sun 13 mar 11
I cut circular bats with a Dremel Trio using a masonry bit.
--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
Terry O'Neill on sun 13 mar 11
Peggy,
I assumed when you said tile backer board you were referring to a cement=3D=
20=3D
board such as Durock, Wonder Board, Utilicrete, etc., or fiber cement boa=
=3D
rd=3D20
as in Hardie?
I would wear the same high quality mask one would use in mixing dry glaze=
=3D
s.
Randall is correct. It will be incredibly dusty.
Terry
Terry O'Neill on sun 13 mar 11
Peggy,
If you're up to it the best method I've found is a 4" Grinder (I prefer M=
=3D
akita)=3D20
with a dry masonry blade. Not the carborundum, but a dry diamond blade.
Can't beat the price, longevity, and effectivesness.
As someone suggested, cut outside and wear a good mask. I might add a=3D20=
=3D
good set of goggles also.
Set a couple of saw horses up, put a sacrificial sheet or two of drywall =
=3D
down=3D20
first, then the backer board over the drywall. This will allow you to ma=
=3D
ke=3D20
your cuts without damaging the blade. Just be careful that you don't cut=
=3D
so=3D20
deep into the drywall so as to weaken your set up.
Take all precautions and take your time.
Regards,
Terry
| |
|
