Arnold Howard on mon 6 jun 11
At NCECA I gave out samples of dichroic on copper for people to apply to
their glazes. I learned more about firing dichroic with pottery glazes
last week at the Glass Art Society Conference.
This is an experimental product made by CBS in Orange, CA. (Their booth
was next to Paragon's last week.) Their main product is dichroic glass.
The samples I gave out at NCECA were sheets of copper coated with
dichroic, which flakes off easily from the copper base.
After the dichroic is flaked onto a glaze, the dichroic coating must be
protected with layers of glaze. Otherwise the color will disappear.
I look forward to hearing from anyone who has tried the dichroic,
whether results are good or bad.
Thanks,
Sincerely,
Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
William & Susan Schran User on mon 6 jun 11
On 6/6/11 6:51 PM, "Arnold Howard" wrote:
> At NCECA I gave out samples of dichroic on copper for people to apply to
> their glazes. I learned more about firing dichroic with pottery glazes
> last week at the Glass Art Society Conference.
> After the dichroic is flaked onto a glaze, the dichroic coating must be
> protected with layers of glaze. Otherwise the color will disappear.
Arnold,
I did one test of the dichroic glass with my crystalline glazes.
On vertical surfaces it all ended down in the catch plate.
On bowls it ended in the bottom and caused some glaze blisters in a glaze
that is normally smoothed out, even when thick.
Will try other shapes in the future.
Bill
--
William "Bill" Schran
wschran@cox.net
wschran@nvcc.edu
http://www.creativecreekartisans.com
marci Boskie's Mama =3D^..^=3D on tue 7 jun 11
> Arnold Howard said:
>At NCECA I gave out samples of dichroic on copper for people to apply to
>their glazes. I learned more about firing dichroic with pottery glazes
>last week at the Glass Art Society Conference.
>After the dichroic is flaked onto a glaze, the dichroic coating must be
>protected with layers of glaze. Otherwise the color will disappear.
Hey Arnold,
I didnt get to see very much of the vendors' exhibits at NCECA
. I was only able to go for one day and because of car troble, I
didnt get there until it was nearly time for me to demo as promised
in the Clayart room and then to do the breakout workshop Paul Lewing
and I were doing that day ...... so.... arghhhhhhhhhh, I didnt see
CBS there or get a sample of this .. I know what it is thought (
have been dying to try it ) and bought some as a gift from a glass
fusing friend of mine.. but I havent played with the dichro-foil.
I DO however use regular dichroic glass pretty extensively in my
work , fusing it to my porcelain with structure paste or non-ping (
both of which are low-fire clay-based products that allow me to
create a raised texture opaque or translucent texture on the
porcelain , depending on which I use, at a cone 015 (
approximately 1480 F / 800 C ).
The dichroic , as I use it, sits on the surface as a jewel and is
not clear coated and the color remains. ( I'll get some pictures of
this up on my PPIO forum in my classroom there and will send the
link later for anyone who is curious ) ... The texture of the
surface changes to one that resembles fine glitter ( hard to describe
..) and the color will also shift . ( To judge approximately what
the final color will be after firing, I tip the dichroic piece AWAY
from me at about a 45 * angle . This gives me a pretty good idea of
what the color will shift to. I also use a lot of textured
dichroic...like the ripple or reeded stuff.. and that will give me
multiple colors after firing. )
I have also used dichro-slide which is dichroic coating in a
decal format directly on porcelain ( with a flux or chinapaint under
it as " glue" ) , as has a friend , Chris Balmforth from the UK .
Chris has posted some of his experiments with it on the forum and
I will dig up the links and post them ... Again , this dichroic is
not clear coated in any way .. the surface of the dichroic is
exposed. .. and the color stays...
The issue with the dichro-slide is that the color effect is
strong only on a dark background. On white, the effect is like
interference colors where you see the color only when light hits
it and not as strongly i areas where there is no direct light.
I would imagine that the dichro on copper would work the same
way .... but the issues you say with the color disappearing is likely
burnout at higher glaze temps. I am not sure how much heat the
coating can take directly without a clear coat ... but it does great
at cone 015 ( approximately 1480 F / 800 C ) with NO coating
...Again , I have only tried regular dichroic glass ( and I have used
coatings from CBS) and the dichro-slide ... but , as I understand it,
dichro coating is dichro coating no matter what its on initially and
it should respond in the same way after firing..
I DO want to get some of the dichro on copper . ( The idea of it
being on copper is that for glass fusers and bead makers, they can
use it on any kind of glass... whereas when working with actual
dichroic glass, it has a specific COE depending on the glass..
usually 90 or 96 .. and the COE has to be matched exactly when
fusing glass to glass..so just having the coating alone opens up more
possibilities ) ...We are headed back home to Buffalo later this week
and Ill try to stop over to Sunshine Glass and see if they carry it..
I'll get some pictures up of my dichroic on porcelain before evening .
marci the chinapainter..
| |
|
