Dinah Snipes Steveni on sat 18 jun 11
Hi List
Here's the Ash Glaze recipe -- UK materials -- fired to 1253 Centigrade wit=
h a .30 soak at top temp.
Pot feld 29.97
Ash (beech) 16.71
Borax frit P295 8.07
Dolomite 20.17
Ball Clay HVAR 1.10
Red Clay 10.09
tin ox 2.88
Here's Dinah's Adjusted Ash ^5/6
Nepheline syenite 30
Ash (mixed) 20
F3134 8
Dolomite 20
OM4 12
Red Art 10.09
(omitted tin)
I have GlazeMaster (TM) but still not completely knowledgeable about how to=
use it. I would like to make DAA even more fluid as a stand alone glaze a=
t ^5 on Goldstone. Where applied thickly there is movement,(I know that fir=
ing at a higher temperature on another body like CKK6 - porcelain -- would =
give me movement.) I layered it with several of RR's and JH's glazes from M=
^6G, and as I mentioned in previous postings the wonderful results on Golds=
tone body this week. But original query is to make DAA on its own more flui=
d. I had long sessions reading Ash Glazes by Rogers, and Stoneware Glazes b=
y Charles Beck -- the section on ash glazes. Very useful. Thanks for any po=
inters. I'm about to make up some tests omitting 1/2 red art, then one with=
more ash. I recently bought M&D Ball clay, Gold Art Fire clay and will use=
these in tests as well. I like a cook's approach, but I know I should beco=
me more at ease with GM and make it my "glaze slave".
Dinah
Mount Vernon, WA.
www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
www.dinahsnipessteveni.wordpress.com
"To obtain a certain thing, you have to become a certain person."
Zen Buddhist saying
Ron Roy on sat 18 jun 11
To make it more fluid add more 3134 which has no alumina - you can
also reduce the OM4 which has plenty.
Because there is soluble sodium in the feldspar the logical choice in
this case would be increasing the frit.
In the Hamer book you will find a chart listing the main oxides we use
and how they affect viscosity - alumina is at the top of that list
meaning it is a glaze stiffener.
There is another list which tells how oxides affect surface tension -
alumina is at the top of that list as well.
Knowing what oxides do in clay and glazes is the key to understanding
how to make adjustments.
Let me know if you need more - RR
Quoting Dinah Snipes Steveni :
> Hi List
>
> Here's the Ash Glaze recipe -- UK materials -- fired to 1253
> Centigrade with a .30 soak at top temp.
> Pot feld 29.97
> Ash (beech) 16.71
> Borax frit P295 8.07
> Dolomite 20.17
> Ball Clay HVAR 1.10
> Red Clay 10.09
> tin ox 2.88
>
> Here's Dinah's Adjusted Ash ^5/6
> Nepheline syenite 30
> Ash (mixed) 20
> F3134 8
> Dolomite 20
> OM4 12
> Red Art 10.09
> (omitted tin)
>
> I have GlazeMaster (TM) but still not completely knowledgeable about
> how to use it. I would like to make DAA even more fluid as a stand
> alone glaze at ^5 on Goldstone. Where applied thickly there is
> movement,(I know that firing at a higher temperature on another body
> like CKK6 - porcelain -- would give me movement.) I layered it with
> several of RR's and JH's glazes from M^6G, and as I mentioned in
> previous postings the wonderful results on Goldstone body this week.
> But original query is to make DAA on its own more fluid. I had long
> sessions reading Ash Glazes by Rogers, and Stoneware Glazes by
> Charles Beck -- the section on ash glazes. Very useful. Thanks for
> any pointers. I'm about to make up some tests omitting 1/2 red art,
> then one with more ash. I recently bought M&D Ball clay, Gold Art
> Fire clay and will use these in tests as well. I like a cook's
> approach, but I know I should become more at ease with GM and make
> it my "glaze slave".
>
> Dinah
> Mount Vernon, WA.
> www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
> www.dinahsnipessteveni.wordpress.com
>
> "To obtain a certain thing, you have to become a certain person."
> Zen Buddhist saying
>
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