sam bucus on thu 21 jul 11
Hello, =3D0AI am trying to set up a blunger to process local clay. Here in =
Ma=3D
ine we have a lot of old brick factory remains. They are scattered all arou=
=3D
nd the bays and flats here. In the past potters have used the local clay an=
=3D
d fired it up to 2100. At least one potter now uses it and has fired up to =
=3D
cone 2 regularly, although now only goes to 01. =3D0A=3DA0=3D0ASo, I would =
like t=3D
o set up a blunger. I have seen some online in photos and the one a local p=
=3D
otter uses. The local potter has some old mining equipment that is no longe=
=3D
r available. Can anyone advise on what motor is best and how to set up the =
=3D
motor to the shaft/blade with a belt drive? Are there any commercially avai=
=3D
lable setups that are used for other purposes that can be adapted easily to=
=3D
make a blunger? Unfortunately I am not very mechanically inclined and do n=
=3D
ot know names, etc of these items so it's hard for me to walk into a store =
=3D
or online and see what I want. =3D0A=3DA0=3D0AAny links to sites describing=
blung=3D
ers would be great too. I really want to start processing clay. =3D0A=3DA0=
=3D0ATh=3D
anks, =3D0ASam=3D0A
James Freeman on thu 21 jul 11
On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 6:18 AM, sam bucus wrote:
Hello,
I am trying to set up a blunger to process local clay.
Sam...
If you own a drill press, you can set up a blunger at almost no cost.
I bolted a piece of plywood to the table of my drill press using wing nuts.
I glued and screwed wooden cleats around the edges of the plywood to fit th=
e
base diameter of a 5 gallon plastic bucket. The cleats hold the bucket
centered on the plywood. I lowered the drill press table, set the 5 gallon
pail atop, and installed a commercial drywall mud mixing paddle into the
drill press chuck. That's it. The only thing I had to pay for was the mud
mixer, and it was only about $10, and the drill press will happily run for
hours with power to spare. I used mine to mix up casting slip, with no
problems. I can post photos if anything is unclear.
I have also seen Lightnin' mixers on eBay from time to time, though even
used they are rather expensive.
You can also get all the parts you would need to build an actual blunger
from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). Search for "mixing shaft" for the
actual shaft and the various available blades and propellers, available in
steel, aluminum, and stainless steel (I would definitely spend the extra $
for stainless). Search for "shaft coupler" to find a coupler to mount the
shaft to your chosen motor for a direct drive setup, which is what the
commercial blungers employ.
Good luck with your project.
...James
James Freeman
"...outsider artists, caught in the bog of their own consciousness, too
preciously idiosyncratic to be taken seriously."
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
Michelle Williamson-Green on thu 21 jul 11
James, would you mind posting the photos as well. This sounds like a
great solution!
Best,
- Michelle
On 7/21/11 8:35 AM, James Freeman wrote:
> On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 6:18 AM, sam bucus wrote:
> Hello,
> I am trying to set up a blunger to process local clay.
>
>
>
>
> Sam...
>
> If you own a drill press, you can set up a blunger at almost no cost.
>
> I bolted a piece of plywood to the table of my drill press using wing nut=
s.
> I glued and screwed wooden cleats around the edges of the plywood to fit =
the
> base diameter of a 5 gallon plastic bucket. The cleats hold the bucket
> centered on the plywood. I lowered the drill press table, set the 5 gall=
on
> pail atop, and installed a commercial drywall mud mixing paddle into the
> drill press chuck. That's it. The only thing I had to pay for was the m=
ud
> mixer, and it was only about $10, and the drill press will happily run fo=
r
> hours with power to spare. I used mine to mix up casting slip, with no
> problems. I can post photos if anything is unclear.
>
> I have also seen Lightnin' mixers on eBay from time to time, though even
> used they are rather expensive.
>
> You can also get all the parts you would need to build an actual blunger
> from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). Search for "mixing shaft" for the
> actual shaft and the various available blades and propellers, available i=
n
> steel, aluminum, and stainless steel (I would definitely spend the extra =
$
> for stainless). Search for "shaft coupler" to find a coupler to mount th=
e
> shaft to your chosen motor for a direct drive setup, which is what the
> commercial blungers employ.
>
> Good luck with your project.
>
> ...James
>
> James Freeman
>
> "...outsider artists, caught in the bog of their own consciousness, too
> preciously idiosyncratic to be taken seriously."
>
> "All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I shoul=
d
> not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
> -Michel de Montaigne
>
> http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
> http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
>
>
John Rodgers on thu 21 jul 11
Sam,
James Freeman's "Drill Press" mixer/blunger is a good method. I worked
with a company out west that would make up a clay body from local clays,
and in that case we used a regular commercial slip mixer that was a 33
gallon size. We threw in some water, threw in some local clay and let
the mixer beat it into a thin slip. Then we would strain that through
several different sized mesh screens to remove any large particles or
trash, into open face plaster basins to allow the plaster and the
atmosphere draw the water out. When the water was gone, and just the
soft clay was left, we would wedge it for throwing. If we had enough, we
would run it through our small pug mill. The process worked great. You
don't need the pug mill - you can hand wedge small quantities.
Another way to remove the water from the slurry, is to build a box of
2X4 or 2X6 lumber and secure chicken wire to the bottom. Lay a sheet of
coarse cloth (blue jean denim works) in the bottom over the chicken wire
and let the edges lay up over the edge of the box. Pour the slip in on
the cloth, and the water will pass through the cloth leaving the clay
behind, When sufficient water has been removed, you can simply peel the
clay up and wedge it. This drying process can be done on a large or
small scale, and is handy for small operations. Of course you must have
the box located outside or somewhere you can deal with water that drips
out the bottom. One solution would be to make a sheet metal catch pan
that would collect the water and run it into a bucket. With this setup
you can still do it in the house, shop or studio.
May you have success with your efforts.
John
John Rodgers
Clayartist and Moldmaker
88'GL VW Bus Driver
Chelsea, AL
Http://www.moldhaus.com
On 7/21/2011 5:18 AM, sam bucus wrote:
> Hello,
> I am trying to set up a blunger to process local clay. Here in Maine we h=
ave a lot of old brick factory remains. They are scattered all around the b=
ays and flats here. In the past potters have used the local clay and fired =
it up to 2100. At least one potter now uses it and has fired up to cone 2 r=
egularly, although now only goes to 01.
>
> So, I would like to set up a blunger. I have seen some online in photos a=
nd the one a local potter uses. The local potter has some old mining equipm=
ent that is no longer available. Can anyone advise on what motor is best an=
d how to set up the motor to the shaft/blade with a belt drive? Are there a=
ny commercially available setups that are used for other purposes that can =
be adapted easily to make a blunger? Unfortunately I am not very mechanical=
ly inclined and do not know names, etc of these items so it's hard for me t=
o walk into a store or online and see what I want.
>
> Any links to sites describing blungers would be great too. I really want =
to start processing clay.
>
> Thanks,
> Sam
>
>
>
Eric Hansen on thu 21 jul 11
at school we had the commercial slip mixer & also BIG ball mills - I
bet Sheldon Carey put those in there - the went the distance. The
commercial slip mixer has a tap/spiggot at the bottom. It was a hassle
to clean as some of the students were too little to get up in there
- h -
On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 10:55 AM, John Rodgers wrote:
> =3DA0Sam,
>
> James Freeman's "Drill Press" mixer/blunger is a good method. I worked
> with a company out west that would make up a clay body from local clays,
> and in that case we used a regular commercial slip mixer that was a 33
> gallon size. We threw in some water, threw in some local clay and let
> the mixer beat it into a thin slip. Then we would strain that through
> several different sized mesh screens to remove any large particles or
> trash, into open face plaster basins to allow the plaster and the
> atmosphere draw the water out. When the water was gone, and just the
> soft clay was left, we would wedge it for throwing. If we had enough, we
> would run it through our small pug mill. The process worked great. You
> don't need the pug mill - you can hand wedge small quantities.
>
> Another way to remove the water from the slurry, is to build a box of
> 2X4 or 2X6 lumber and secure chicken wire to the bottom. Lay a sheet of
> coarse cloth (blue jean denim works) in the bottom over the chicken wire
> and let the edges lay up over the edge of the box. Pour the slip in on
> the cloth, and the water will pass through the cloth leaving the clay
> behind, When sufficient water has been removed, you can simply peel the
> clay up and wedge it. This drying process can be done on a large or
> small scale, and is handy for small operations. Of course you must have
> the box located outside or somewhere you can deal with water that drips
> out the bottom. One solution would be to make a sheet metal catch pan
> that would collect the water and run it into a bucket. With this setup
> you can still do it in the house, shop or studio.
>
> May you have success with your efforts.
>
> John
>
> John Rodgers
> Clayartist and Moldmaker
> 88'GL VW Bus Driver
> Chelsea, AL
> Http://www.moldhaus.com
>
>
> On 7/21/2011 5:18 AM, sam bucus wrote:
>>
>> Hello,
>> I am trying to set up a blunger to process local clay. Here in Maine we
>> have a lot of old brick factory remains. They are scattered all around t=
=3D
he
>> bays and flats here. In the past potters have used the local clay and fi=
=3D
red
>> it up to 2100. At least one potter now uses it and has fired up to cone =
=3D
2
>> regularly, although now only goes to 01.
>>
>> So, I would like to set up a blunger. I have seen some online in photos
>> and the one a local potter uses. The local potter has some old mining
>> equipment that is no longer available. Can anyone advise on what motor i=
=3D
s
>> best and how to set up the motor to the shaft/blade with a belt drive? A=
=3D
re
>> there any commercially available setups that are used for other purposes
>> that can be adapted easily to make a blunger? Unfortunately I am not ver=
=3D
y
>> mechanically inclined and do not know names, etc of these items so it's =
=3D
hard
>> for me to walk into a store or online and see what I want.
>>
>> Any links to sites describing blungers would be great too. I really want
>> to start processing clay.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Sam
>>
>>
>>
>
--=3D20
Eric Alan Hansen
Stonehouse Studio Pottery
Alexandria, Virginia
americanpotter.blogspot.com
thesuddenschool.blogspot.com
hansencookbook.blogspot.com
"Simplify, simplify, simplify" - Thoreau
ivor and olive lewis on fri 22 jul 11
Dear Sam Bucus
Your best reference for information about clay processing machinery has to
be Harry Davis, "The Potter's Alternative". ISBN 0-454-0113-X.
You are fortunate to live in a region rich in uncontaminated Plastic Earth.
Make the most of this gift.
Best regards,
Ivor Lewis,
REDHILL,
South Australia
Brandon Phillips on fri 22 jul 11
I used to blunge clay in a 35 gal barrel with a drill and sheetrock mixer,
it works. I recently built a blunger with a mounted motor/shaft and a
pump to pump the slip into drying racks. Here's a photo of the motor,
it's 1.5hp, 1750 rpm but the pulleys bring it down to 450rpm.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xg8khySejwM/ThooYcvrgwI/AAAAAAAACpg/v1lt7c5IRqo/s=
1600/blung.jpg
Here's a picture with the pump, it's 1hp clear water pump but works fine
if the slip isn't too thick. The pipe to the pump is pvc and comes out the
bottom, you can't see it but the barrel is slightly tilted towards the
hole. When the barrel is just about empty I spray in water to clean the
last of the slip out, it works.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l_M8qCXvJmk/ThEG7TsPXlI/AAAAAAAACpQ/eV9VITgUFRw/s=
1600/blunger.jpg
Brandon Phillips
supportyourlocalpotter.blogspot.com
>>> Hello,
>>> I am trying to set up a blunger to process local clay. Here in Maine we
>>> have a lot of old brick factory remains. They are scattered all around
>>> the
>>> bays and flats here. In the past potters have used the local clay and
>>> fired
>>> it up to 2100. At least one potter now uses it and has fired up to cone
>>> 2
>>> regularly, although now only goes to 01.
>>>
>>> So, I would like to set up a blunger. I have seen some online in photos
>>> and the one a local potter uses. The local potter has some old mining
>>> equipment that is no longer available. Can anyone advise on what motor
>>> is
>>> best and how to set up the motor to the shaft/blade with a belt drive?
>>> Are
>>> there any commercially available setups that are used for other
>>> purposes
>>> that can be adapted easily to make a blunger? Unfortunately I am not
>>> very
>>> mechanically inclined and do not know names, etc of these items so it's
>>> hard
>>> for me to walk into a store or online and see what I want.
>>>
>>> Any links to sites describing blungers would be great too. I really
>>> want
>>> to start processing clay.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Sam
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Eric Alan Hansen
> Stonehouse Studio Pottery
> Alexandria, Virginia
> americanpotter.blogspot.com
> thesuddenschool.blogspot.com
> hansencookbook.blogspot.com
> "Simplify, simplify, simplify" - Thoreau
>
James Freeman on fri 22 jul 11
Several folks contacted me off list asking for pictures of the drill press
blunger setup. I have uploaded a series of photos to my flickr page (
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio ). The pictures got out of
order, and I don't have time to fix it right now, but everything should
still be pretty clear. Some of the photos have commentary attached.
Off to the Ann Arbor Art Fair to enjoy the heat! Take care.
...James
James Freeman
"...outsider artists, caught in the bog of their own consciousness, too
preciously idiosyncratic to be taken seriously."
"All I say is by way of discourse, and nothing by way of advice. I should
not speak so boldly if it were my due to be believed."
-Michel de Montaigne
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamesfreemanstudio/
http://www.jamesfreemanstudio.com/resources
On Thu, Jul 21, 2011 at 6:18 AM, sam bucus wrote:
> Hello,
> I am trying to set up a blunger to process local clay.
>
>
>
David Finkelnburg on fri 22 jul 11
Sam,
James has given you a good suggestion. A ball mill, even one using rock=
s
for the "balls," will blunge small amounts of clay. The following is for a
larger capacity effort.
First, what diameter tank will you use, what tank volume, what sort of
agitator do you have in mind, will you dry the clay and then slake it or
blunge as-dug clay?
Horsepower will depend on the size (outside diameter) of the agitator
you use and how fast you run it, plus slurry density and thickness
(viscosity). If you gear down heavily you can use a very small
motor. However, I have found that low RPM is not very useful for blunging
unless you have a thin slurry and have slaked bone dry clay, or you are
willing to be quite patient. If you are working with as-dug clay, 1,150 rp=
m
is nice and 1,750 rpm is better because it will blunge a larger diameter
vessel, and you can go up to 3,600 RPM if you want. However, if you have a
lot of sand and gravel in the body then you will have to run at lower RPM o=
r
you will wear out agitators quickly. Also, the thinner the slurry you are
blunging, the less horsepower you will draw, but you want to design for
worst case so you don't burn up belts or a motor.
For direction on motor size, once you have settled on RPM and diameters
of agitator and blunging vessel, look at heavy-duty mixers in any on-line
catalog. You will see that very small diameter mixers can be run with an
ordinary hand-held electric drill, but a 5-inch mixer will require a hefty
motor. It's clear that horsepower increases exponentially with agitator
diameter (assuming slurry density and RPM are constant).
You probably want a high-shear agitator because it puts most of the
energy into blunging where a propeller-type puts it into circulation. The
high-shear mixer is basically a flat plate with blades bent up and down at
the perimeter. Google one and you'll see.
Unless the clay is quite fine, put the agitator about 2 diameters off
the tank bottom to let stones settle safely away from the agitator. You'll
have to fish them out by hand but it will save the agitator.
Good blunging!
Dave Finkelnburg
http://www.mattanddavesclays.com
douglas fur on sun 24 jul 11
Sam
The first studio I worked in had a wringer type washing machine. Fill it
with dry clay and water, aggitate +slip.
The best can be what you have at hand.
DRB
Seola Creek
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