nori on mon 26 sep 11
Hi, everyone.
i'm getting ready to do my first laser decals...
i have the decal paper, the laser printer, the glaze-fired pots.
Yay!
Anyone out there doing laser decals?
I'd love to hear your tips on how to use them.
and anything to avoid, things that can go wrong.
because knowing me, i'll do every one of them!
someone already mentioned to not put decals on pots that are just out of
the kiln & warm.
that was helpful!
and... I've seen laser decals with color washes applied.
my guess is that the color is added in a 2nd, lower temp firing... like
a luster?
again.... any insights into this would be truly appreciated.
thanks, everyone!
--
Clifton, Norwich & Sabra
Our studiocrocus clay works
"Like" us on Face Book:Hungerford Urban ArtisansHUA
Our charityA little effort + no money =3D a big difference!Sample Soap
Linda Stauffer on mon 26 sep 11
I've done laser decals many times. Make sure you have a smooth surface. If =
t=3D
he surface is convex you can cut little slits and overlap to conform to sur=
f=3D
ace. I slide a little of the decal off the paper and place the edge on the =
p=3D
ot, then holding down the edge slide the paper backing away. Let the decals=
d=3D
ry completely before firing.=3D20
FYI: almost every laser printer can print decals, not just HP and Apple. Pu=
r=3D
chase a "bank toner" cartridge , it has extra iron in it. Gives a darker im=
a=3D
ge.
Linda P. Stauffer
On Sep 26, 2011, at 7:34 AM, nori wrote:
> Hi, everyone.
>=3D20
> i'm getting ready to do my first laser decals...
> i have the decal paper, the laser printer, the glaze-fired pots.
> Yay!
>=3D20
> Anyone out there doing laser decals?
>=3D20
> I'd love to hear your tips on how to use them.
>=3D20
> and anything to avoid, things that can go wrong.
> because knowing me, i'll do every one of them!
>=3D20
> someone already mentioned to not put decals on pots that are just out of
> the kiln & warm.
> that was helpful!
>=3D20
> and... I've seen laser decals with color washes applied.
> my guess is that the color is added in a 2nd, lower temp firing... like
> a luster?
> again.... any insights into this would be truly appreciated.
>=3D20
> thanks, everyone!
>=3D20
>=3D20
>=3D20
> --
>=3D20
>=3D20
> Clifton, Norwich & Sabra
>=3D20
> Our studiocrocus clay works
>=3D20
> "Like" us on Face Book:Hungerford Urban ArtisansHUA
>
>=3D20
> Our charityA little effort + no money =3D3D a big difference!Sample Soap
>
Paul Lewing on mon 26 sep 11
On Sep 26, 2011, at 4:34 AM, nori wrote:
I'd love to hear your tips on how to use them.
I've only ever used them once so I don't know if my experience was
typical, but I found the ones I used to be extremely delicate and hard
to handle without tearing. I thought at the time that if I ever did
them again, I'd spray them with several coats of spray varnish or
lacquer before I slid them off the paper.
and... I've seen laser decals with color washes applied.
my guess is that the color is added in a 2nd, lower temp firing... like
a luster?
Yes, that's best done with china paints, which are fired to cone
018-014.
Paul Lewing
www.paullewingtile.com
www.paullewingart.com
Terrie on tue 27 sep 11
What you need to know about laser decals besides using a printer that has=
=3D
=3D20
iron oxide in the toner is there are several different types of decal pap=
=3D
er out=3D20
there and depending on what surface you are firing images onto... the pap=
=3D
er=3D20
makes all the difference to success.=3D20=3D20
Glass decal paper (sold by fused glass supply distributors) is thinner an=
=3D
d tears=3D20
easier than the type that works on clay surfaces. Since glass artists gen=
=3D
erally=3D20
don=3D92t try to print large images so it works fine for them. Bel's pape=
=3D
r is not=3D20
meant to be fired, is super thick, needs to be used toner side down and w=
=3D
ill=3D20
leave a shadow on the ware if you do not cut super close to the images.=3D2=
0=3D
Fired-On Images MS (multi-surface) Transfer Paper is the only precoated=
=3D
=3D20
laser decal paper is actually formulated to be fired (patented process) a=
=3D
nd=3D20
works perfectly on ANY fire-able surface. It holds up well for full shee=
=3D
t=3D20=3D20
images, is used right side up and goes through the printer like regular =
=3D
paper.=3D20=3D20
The instructions that come with the paper include how to add color to sep=
=3D
ia=3D20
images=3D85 either before firing (during glazing) or after with china paint=
=3D
s or=3D20
overglazes. We just published the second edition of my book called =3D93Fi=
=3D
red-On=3D20
images for Ceramics, Stoneware, Porcelain and Glass / 2nd Edition by Terr=
=3D
ie=3D20
Banhazl that has everything you need to know plus hints for how studios=
=3D
can=3D20
make money with the process. I have attached an image of my latest=3D20
work...a basket of veggies platter. check out the website gallery for mo=
=3D
re=3D20
project ideas. www.fired-on.com=3D20
Terrie
Johanna DeMaine on tue 27 sep 11
My experience with laser decals has only been with Beldecal's laser decal=
=3D
paper=3D20
and I find that I cannot support the following statement. "Bel's paper i=
=3D
s not=3D20
meant to be fired, is super thick, needs to be used toner side down and w=
=3D
ill=3D20
leave a shadow on the ware if you do not cut super close to the images."
Beldecal provide a service for custom ceramic and glass decals. It is th=
=3D
en self=3D20
serving to state that "Bel's decal paper is not meant to be fired." In o=
=3D
ur=3D20
litigious society why would they knowingly market a service on inferior=3D2=
0=3D
materials? I have found that Beldecal paper goes through a laser printer=
=3D
=3D20
without any problems. It does NOT need to be fired toner side down and on=
=3D
ly=3D20
leaves a shadow if the underlying glaze hasn't softened sufficiently to f=
=3D
use it=3D20
properly. All potters will understand that each glaze has it's own speci=
=3D
fic=3D20
softening point and finding that it is the key as a blanket/generalized =
=3D
firing=3D20
temperature doesn't fit all glazes. This is more problematic than using =
=3D
factory=3D20
produced glazed blanks/porcelains which use one specific glaze fired at a=
=3D
lower=3D20
point(usually around 1100.C) than the high fired bisque. When dealing wi=
=3D
th=3D20
higher fired Cone 6-10 glazes softening points are higher.=3D20=3D20
I do not have any financial interest in Beldecal. My only interest is th=
=3D
at it is=3D20
the best value for money by a long shot even when I pay for the freight t=
=3D
o=3D20
Australia. In addition to this truth in advertising should also be obser=
=3D
ved when=3D20
promoting your own agenda. Don't misrepresent others to gain an advantage=
=3D
.
Johanna DeMaine
http://johanna.demaine.org
http://overglaze.info
http://allthatissublime.com
C Sullivan on tue 27 sep 11
"Bel's paper is not meant to be fired, is super thick, needs to be used
toner side down and will
leave a shadow on the ware if you do not cut super close to the images."
I absolutely have to disagree with the above statement.
I've used Bel's decals and have been quite pleased with them !
And yes ! They are meant to be fired. I do it all the time. They're easy
as pie to use. Just run them thru the printer with the design you wish to
use and then moisten the decal, slide it onto the pot and walla! -- you
have it. I've found that if you fire a couple of cones under your original
firing temp, this works best (for me). They turn from black to a sepia
brown, which if you want to add other coloring glazes to, you can.
I have never found it to leave a shadow of any kind.
Nor have i found it to be "super thick".
In fact -- bought several types of decals before i found Bel's and was abou=
t
to give up in despair on this process until someone recommended Bel's.
They're located in Florida; ship immediately and have excellent directions
included.
I'm not affliated in any way with Bel's -- it's just that i hate to see an
excellent product disparaged by someone who, evidently, hasn't used it.
Chae
Linda Stauffer on tue 27 sep 11
I use laser decal paper from Micromark . It requires no top coat. Just prin=
t=3D
, soak and apply. Fires great! I apply to cone 6 fired surface and re-fire =
a=3D
t 04.
Linda P. Stauffer
On Sep 27, 2011, at 8:31 PM, C Sullivan wrote:
> "Bel's paper is not meant to be fired, is super thick, needs to be used
> toner side down and will
> leave a shadow on the ware if you do not cut super close to the images."
>=3D20
> I absolutely have to disagree with the above statement.
> I've used Bel's decals and have been quite pleased with them !
> And yes ! They are meant to be fired. I do it all the time. They're ea=
s=3D
y
> as pie to use. Just run them thru the printer with the design you wish t=
o=3D
> use and then moisten the decal, slide it onto the pot and walla! -- you
> have it. I've found that if you fire a couple of cones under your origin=
a=3D
l
> firing temp, this works best (for me). They turn from black to a sepia
> brown, which if you want to add other coloring glazes to, you can.
> I have never found it to leave a shadow of any kind.
> Nor have i found it to be "super thick".
> In fact -- bought several types of decals before i found Bel's and was ab=
o=3D
ut
> to give up in despair on this process until someone recommended Bel's.
> They're located in Florida; ship immediately and have excellent direction=
s=3D
> included.
> I'm not affliated in any way with Bel's -- it's just that i hate to see a=
n=3D
> excellent product disparaged by someone who, evidently, hasn't used it.
> Chae
Jackie.Miller.Clay on tue 27 sep 11
Is there a way to make laser decals food safe?
Jackie
>=3D20
> "Bel's paper is not meant to be fired, is super thick, needs to be used
> toner side down and will
> leave a shadow on the ware if you do not cut super close to the images."
>=3D20
> I absolutely have to disagree with the above statement.
> I've used Bel's decals and have been quite pleased with them !
> And yes ! They are meant to be fired. I do it all the time. They're ea=
s=3D
y
> as pie to use. Just run them thru the printer with the design you wish t=
o=3D
> use and then moisten the decal, slide it onto the pot and walla! -- you
> have it. I've found that if you fire a couple of cones under your origin=
a=3D
l
> firing temp, this works best (for me). They turn from black to a sepia
> brown, which if you want to add other coloring glazes to, you can.
> I have never found it to leave a shadow of any kind.
> Nor have i found it to be "super thick".
> In fact -- bought several types of decals before i found Bel's and was ab=
o=3D
ut
> to give up in despair on this process until someone recommended Bel's.
> They're located in Florida; ship immediately and have excellent direction=
s=3D
> included.
> I'm not affliated in any way with Bel's -- it's just that i hate to see a=
n=3D
> excellent product disparaged by someone who, evidently, hasn't used it.
> Chae
Frank Gaydos on wed 28 sep 11
Chae,=3D20
I have to agree with you about Bels paper.=3D20
I use it all the time and recommend it to folks who see my web page about m=
=3D
aking your own decals.=3D20
I use the same photos I used for the DIY decal project I wrote for Pottery =
=3D
Making Illustrated. http://home.comcast.net/~frankgaydos/Decal-1.html=3D20
It makes a little difference if you use toner side up or toner side down, (=
=3D
darker).=3D20
=3DC2=3DA0=3D20
Another source of great ceramic information, free, is the Ceramics Arts Dai=
=3D
ly emails. They are loaded with information on technique, tips and video of=
=3D
potters in action. These are the same folks who bring you Ceramics Monthly=
=3D
, Pottery Making Illustrated and The Potters Council.=3DC2=3DA0A little som=
ethi=3D
ng for everyone.=3D20
http://sz0065.wc.mail.comcast.net/zimbra/mail?app=3D3Dmail#3=3D20
Frank Gaydos=3D20
----- Original Message -----
From: "C Sullivan" =3D20
To: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG=3D20
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2011 8:31:04 PM=3D20
Subject: Re: lessons learned with laser decals?=3D20
"Bel's paper is not meant to be fired, is super thick, needs to be used=3D2=
0
toner side down and will=3D20
leave a shadow on the ware if you do not cut super close to the images."=3D=
20
I absolutely have to disagree with the above statement.=3D20
I've used Bel's decals and have been quite pleased with them !=3D20
And yes ! =3DC2=3DA0They are meant to be fired. =3DC2=3DA0I do it all the t=
ime. =3DC2=3D
=3DA0They're easy=3D20
as pie to use. =3DC2=3DA0Just run them thru the printer with the design you=
wis=3D
h to=3D20
use and then moisten the decal, slide it onto the pot and walla! =3DC2=3DA0=
-- y=3D
ou=3D20
have it. =3DC2=3DA0I've found that if you fire a couple of cones under your=
ori=3D
ginal=3D20
firing temp, this works best (for me). =3DC2=3DA0They turn from black to a =
sepi=3D
a=3D20
brown, which if you want to add other coloring glazes to, you can.=3D20
I have never found it to leave a shadow of any kind.=3D20
Nor have i found it to be "super thick".=3D20
In fact -- bought several types of decals before i found Bel's and was abou=
=3D
t=3D20
to give up in despair on this process until someone recommended Bel's.=3D20
They're located in Florida; ship immediately and have excellent directions=
=3D
=3D20
included.=3D20
I'm not affliated in any way with Bel's -- it's just that i hate to see an=
=3D
=3D20
excellent product disparaged by someone who, evidently, hasn't used it.=3D2=
0
Chae=3D20
Terrie on fri 30 sep 11
Fired-On Images Transfers have been ACMI tested and are food safe once=3D20=
=3D
fired.
www.fired-on.com
Johanna DeMaine on fri 30 sep 11
Hi Jackie
This question can be seen as 2 parts depending on what exactly you mean b=
=3D
y=3D20
laser decals. Is it the laser decal that you print yourself on a B&W=3D
only laser=3D20
printer or commercial coloured laser decals.
1. Self printed laser decals.=3D20
These decals depend on IRON OXIDE from a black laser toner which has in=3D2=
0=3D
excess of 50% iron oxide in its composition. The rest of the toner is ma=
=3D
de up=3D20
of plastic type beads which melt and adhere it to the transfer/decal pape=
=3D
r=3D20
surface as it goes over the printers drum. The reason for using only a B=
=3D
&W=3D20
laser printer is that the drum does not get as hot as a colour laser prin=
=3D
ter so=3D20
that the surface of the transfer/decal paper does not melt.=3D20=3D20
The shiny surface on decal paper once upon a time was gelatine based but =
=3D
is=3D20
now acrylic based which melts sufficiently for the Iron Oxide to bond wit=
=3D
hout=3D20
the need for a more toxic covercoat to hold it all in place while it is f=
=3D
loated in=3D20
water so as to make it water slide off the paper onto your pot. All the =
=3D
transfer=3D20
acrylic (which looks like very fine clear plastic) together with the fill=
=3D
er (plastic=3D20
type beads for simplicity) and anything else all burns off in the firing =
=3D
whichever=3D20
temperature you go to.=3D20=3D20
The temperature you fire to depends on your glazed surface. The glaze ha=
=3D
s to=3D20
soften (which as Chae mentioned generally is about 2 cones below your gla=
=3D
ze=3D20
maturing temp) leaving behind the iron oxide embedded into the glaze. Th=
=3D
e=3D20
reason for firing to your glaze softening temperature is that the iron ox=
=3D
ide is=3D20
unfluxed and you have to reach the point where it adheres to the glazed=3D2=
0=3D
surface or to where the iron oxide starts to act as its own flux which it=
=3D
does at=3D20
the higher temperatures.
The technology for laser decals has been experimented with for a long tim=
=3D
e. It=3D20
was first written about by Paul Scott in Ceramics and Print and lately by=
=3D
Kevin=3D20
Petrie. The breakthrough came when the decal paper started to be=3D20
manufactured with acrylic in the shiny coating. I have a memory that the=
=3D
=3D20
University of West England in Bristol UK did a lot of experimentation in =
=3D
this field.
This laser decal paper is available through Beldecal and other distributo=
=3D
rs(who=3D20
tend to be more economical) not just small businesses who claim to hold t=
=3D
he=3D20
patent for the whole laser process.=3D20
In summing up IRON OXIDE laser decals ARE food safe as iron oxide has nev=
=3D
er=3D20
been an issue in food safety. This link here might be of use=3D20
http://digitalfire.com/4sight/education/are_your_glazes_food_safe_or_are_=
=3D
they
_leachable_12.html
Another knowledgeable person in this area is Justin Rothschank who I beli=
=3D
eve is=3D20
in the process of making a DVD in conjunction with ACERS on the topic of =
=3D
laser=3D20
decals.
2. Commercially printed colour laser decals.
Here we are dealing with low fire (around 800.c) glazes used in a very fi=
=3D
ne=3D20
powder as toners in the CMYK format. These same toner proportions etc as =
=3D
iron=3D20
oxide laser decals apply. Coloured overglaze decals normally sit on top =
=3D
of but=3D20
bonded to the glaze at 800.c. They use ceramic colours which are similar =
=3D
to=3D20
underglaze colours in composition containing fluxes to lower the firing=3D2=
0=3D
temperature. Until recent times lead was the main flux for this. Internat=
=3D
ional=3D20
law now requires that the flux is food safe so sodium borosilicate fluxes=
=3D
are now=3D20
being used. However the balance within the composition has to be spot on=
=3D
as=3D20
does the maturing temperature or otherwise the leaching as described in t=
=3D
he=3D20
above link still exists. In industry firing temperature is scrupulously =
=3D
controlled=3D20
whereas in studio ceramics we can be lax.=3D20=3D20
If coloured decals, screen printed or laser printed have been around a wh=
=3D
ile it is=3D20
likely they are lead based. It is difficult to tell if they are old as t=
=3D
he covercoat=3D20
keeps them intact. Colour laser decals can have a covercoat with a small=
=3D
=3D20
amount of extra flux in it laminated on to the surface so as to ensure th=
=3D
e=3D20
colours all have the same degree of gloss.=3D20
Into this mix also comes the question of cadmium and selenium. These=3D20
colourants are used for low temperature reds and oranges. They are also=3D=
20=3D
known to leach out unless everything is in perfect balance.=3D20=3D20
Coloured overglaze decals can be fired to a higher temperature where they=
=3D
=3D20
actually start to melt into the glaze just like iron oxide laser decals. =
=3D
Here they=3D20
become locked in and part of the glaze. This is then known as INGLAZE co=
=3D
lour.=3D20=3D20
More and more areas in industry are firing the dinnerware like this just =
=3D
to make=3D20
sure that it passes the food safe requirement. However colours do tend t=
=3D
o=3D20
become lighter and not so intense. Also cadmium and selenium colours burn=
=3D
=3D20
out.
I guess the answer to all this is if you are not sure of the decal compos=
=3D
ition etc=3D20
be safe and place the decal where it does not come into contact with food=
=3D
and=3D20
therefore does not have a chance to leach out.
Regards
Johanna
Johanna DeMaine
http://johanna.demaine.org
http://overglaze.info
http://allthatissublime.com
On Tue, 27 Sep 2011 21:06:04 -0400, Jackie.Miller.Clay=3D20
wrote:
>Is there a way to make laser decals food safe?
>Jackie
Terrie on sat 1 oct 11
Johanna,
Making bold claims that all pre-coated decal papers used in toner transfe=
=3D
r are=3D20
food safe "In summing up IRON OXIDE laser decals ARE food safe as iron ox=
=3D
ide=3D20
has never been an issue in food safety" is both irresponsible and danger=
=3D
ous.
ONLY Fired-On Images Transfer products have been ACMI tested for food=3D20
safety. www.fired-on.com
nori on sat 1 oct 11
Hi, everyone.
i just got my first test pots out of the kiln with decals fired on...
YAY! success!
big thanks to everyone who gave me advice.
i used beldecal's paper through an JP laser jet printer.
i cut them fairly close to the image, though nothing obsessive.
application was easy.
and they were pretty indestructible while i was applying them.
i applied them to stoneware pots that had been fired to a hot cone 6
with val cushing's vc71 glaze, with different colorants added.
vc71 is pretty matte, so i was concerned about it not melting at bisque.
i included my pots in a cone 04 bisque we were running.
the decals came out just GREAT.
if you go to my facebook page - sabra wood - you can see them in the photos=
.
no shadows or halos around the images.
the solid fields are uniformly dark.
even fine lines are very visible.
i applied them to some old stock that wasn't selling... i'll donate them
to our local roller derby league to sell at their merch tables.
yay!
now on to making the holiday ornaments....
thanks again, everyone.
sabra
--
Clifton, Norwich & Sabra
Our studiocrocus clay works
"Like" us on Face Book:Hungerford Urban ArtisansHUA
Our charityA little effort + no money =3D a big difference!Sample Soap
| |
|
