mel jacobson on wed 28 sep 11
david, great advice...but the last resort is
always...some heat.
just a bernz o matic torch.
heat the area of the join.
then do the tapping with a wooden hammer.
heat always does the trick.
mel
from: minnetonka, mn
website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
clayart link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
John Rodgers on wed 28 sep 11
After all else is done - if it still doesn't move.........
Get a helper, your bernz-o-matic torch, a can of compressed air used for
blowing out computers, hammers and wood wedges.
Have the helper turn the can upside down and spray it on the shaft only.
Have the torch at the ready. The moment the spraying stops, put the
torch to the wheelhead boss, all the while having your helper use the
hammer and wedge, driving them. If this is all done quickly enough the
expansion differential - aluminum being greater than steel - between the
two dissimilar metals should be enough to break the grip the wheel has
on the shaft.
I don't recommend chilling and heating at the same time, since the
reaction of the propellants in the can in an open flame is open to question=
.
A CAUTION:
The discharge from the compressed gas can while upside down will reach a
temperature of 50 degrees below zero. DO NOT get your bare fingers in
front of the discharge nozzle nor touch any metal with your bare
fingers. You will get INSTANT SEVERE FROST BITE.
John
John Rodgers
Clayartist and Moldmaker
88'GL VW Bus Driver
Chelsea, AL
Http://www.moldhaus.com
On 9/28/2011 12:03 PM, mel jacobson wrote:
> david, great advice...but the last resort is
> always...some heat.
> just a bernz o matic torch.
> heat the area of the join.
> then do the tapping with a wooden hammer.
> heat always does the trick.
> mel
> from: minnetonka, mn
> website: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/
> clayart link: http://www.visi.com/~melpots/clayart.html
>
>
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