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wood grain texture - highlighting

updated thu 20 oct 11

 

Philip Poburka on sun 16 oct 11


Hi Jeff,



You can use a Circular Wire Brush ( 'Fine' designation would be best )
mounted in a hand held Electric Drill or amenible Bench Grinder, to bring
out surface/tactile eccentuation of Wood Grain - the softer portions of the
Wood ( Summer growth ) will be relieved/eroded, and, the harder portions (
Winter growth ), will remain higher.

Similar may also be done with a Blow Torch or Sand/Media Blasting ( being
careful and sensitive to how the effect is progressing ).


Growth Ring orientation to the face of the Board will of course play a huge
role on final appearance.


Look at the end of the Board to see how the concentric Growth Rings of the
Tree had ended up with the Board having been sawn or abstracted from the
larger whole - growth Rings which cross the Board perpendicular to the
Board's Face will yield the most pronounced depth of topical contrast when
subjected to differential erosion from whatever mechanical or
chemical/caloric means.

Rings running roughly parallel to the Board's Face, will yield an entirely
different appearance.



Phil
L v


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Longtin"

>A few days ago I poured a mold of my ribbed texture surrounded with a wood
> frame. The resulting form has an interesting contrast between the man mad=
e
> vs natural. So I'm wondering...does anyone know, what I can do, to bring
> out the grain in the wood? (i.e. so that the actual grain stands out
> more.)
>
> Would soaking it in water, and then allowing it dry, do it? Do some woods
> respond to this treatment better than others?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeff Longtin
> Minneapolis

Carl Cravens on sun 16 oct 11


Lightly sandblasting wood will enhance the grain texture. It doesn't look e=
=3D
xactly natural, but it's interesting. And looks a lot like weathered wood e=
=3D
xposed to wind for years.

Jeff Longtin on sun 16 oct 11


A few days ago I poured a mold of my ribbed texture surrounded with a wood
frame. The resulting form has an interesting contrast between the man made
vs natural. So I'm wondering...does anyone know, what I can do, to bring
out the grain in the wood? (i.e. so that the actual grain stands out more.=
)

Would soaking it in water, and then allowing it dry, do it? Do some woods
respond to this treatment better than others?

Thanks

Jeff Longtin
Minneapolis

Mike on mon 17 oct 11


Hi Jeff,
If it is something like pine or cedar, you can use a burner to char it
and brush away the blackened part with a soft wire brush, repeat as
necessary to get the depth of figuring you want. The softer rings burn
away more quickly than the hard.

Mike
in Taku, Japan

http://karatsupots.com
http://karatsupots.blogspot.com

Workshop in Taku 2012: The Simple Teabowl, May 12 - 18

http://karatsupots.com/workshop2012/2012home.html

http://workshopintaku2012.blogspot.com/


(2011/10/17 9:13), Jeff Longtin wrote:
> A few days ago I poured a mold of my ribbed texture surrounded with a woo=
d
> frame. The resulting form has an interesting contrast between the man mad=
e
> vs natural. So I'm wondering...does anyone know, what I can do, to bring
> out the grain in the wood? (i.e. so that the actual grain stands out mor=
e.)
>
> Would soaking it in water, and then allowing it dry, do it? Do some woods
> respond to this treatment better than others?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeff Longtin
> Minneapolis
>

Steve Mills on mon 17 oct 11


Jeff,=3D20
A technique we have used in the past, and I used the other day to make a ro=
u=3D
lette, is to scorch the surface of a piece of wood with a gas torch, and th=
e=3D
n follow that up with a wire brush. The torch hardens the grain and the wir=
e=3D
brush removes the soft material between, raising the grain proud of the su=
r=3D
face.=3D20
This works best on coarse grained woods.=3D20

Steve M


Steve Mills
Bath
UK
www.mudslinger.me.uk
Sent from my Ipod touch

On 16 Oct 2011, at 20:13, Jeff Longtin wrote:

> A few days ago I poured a mold of my ribbed texture surrounded with a woo=
d=3D

> frame. The resulting form has an interesting contrast between the man mad=
e=3D

> vs natural. So I'm wondering...does anyone know, what I can do, to bring
> out the grain in the wood? (i.e. so that the actual grain stands out mor=
e=3D
.)
>=3D20
> Would soaking it in water, and then allowing it dry, do it? Do some woods
> respond to this treatment better than others?
>=3D20
> Thanks
>=3D20
> Jeff Longtin
> Minneapolis

Bob Seele on mon 17 oct 11


Sandblasting and / or a wire brush.

bs


On Oct 16, 2011, at 7:13 PM, Jeff Longtin wrote:

A few days ago I poured a mold of my ribbed texture surrounded with a
wood
frame. The resulting form has an interesting contrast between the man
made
vs natural. So I'm wondering...does anyone know, what I can do, to bring
out the grain in the wood? (i.e. so that the actual grain stands out
more.)

Would soaking it in water, and then allowing it dry, do it? Do some
woods
respond to this treatment better than others?

Thanks

Jeff Longtin
Minneapolis

Don't be irreplaceable. If you can't be replaced, you can't be promoted.

Michael Mahan on tue 18 oct 11


Old weathered wood from the side of an old barn or outbuilding has
some great texture on it. Around here, there's plenty of old fallen
down wooden structures to find old boards to use. How far are you
from the country, where you could maybe find some?

Michael Mahan

FromTheGroundUpPots.blogspot.com

Bonnie Staffel on wed 19 oct 11


When I was making clay sculptures, we wanted to have textured wooden bases.
So my husband took a blow torch to the wood which brought out the texture
nicely. It burned the softer part of the wood. However, then you need to
deal with the burned look. Perhaps a bleach would lighten that.

Bonnie

http://webpages.charter.net/bstaffel/
http://vasefinder.com/bstaffelgallery1.html
DVD Throwing with Coils and Slabs
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Charter Member Potters Council

Jeff Longtin on wed 19 oct 11


Hey Bonnie,

This is going to molded under plaster first so the appearance is not
important.

What I'm intending to do is combine highly textured wood pieces with my
highly textured plaster pieces and then cast a plaster form.

Then use that plaster form to cast cone 6 porcelain, either to make
textured porcelain plates or a textured porcelain wall piece.

Thanks so much.

Jeff Longtin
Minneapolis