Cindy on mon 26 jan 98
Hi Everybody,
Here in SD, hardwood is pretty dear. Certainly, no one burns it .
I realize ash varies with the acre of land the wood came from, but if
anyone has formulas for any type of softwood ash, I'd sure appreciate
seeing them. It would be fun to experiment with some ash glazes, and nice
to have at least a vague idea of what oxides are creating the effect.
Ponderosa Pine is *the* predominant life form in the Black Hills. They
outnumber us all.
Also, if anyone has experience with burning softwood for firing, I'd like
to hear how it works out for you.
Thanks,
Cindy in SD
Anthony G Allison on tue 27 jan 98
Hi Cindy,
We use popple slab in Minnesota because it is cheap and plentiful. The
trucker who picks up 7 chords on his truck and delivers it charges us 100.00
per load. Popple ash has a pale green color in our wood kiln. The only
problem we have is that we have difficulty at times reaching cone 10. The
wood just doesnt seem to have enough heat energy to push "over the top" To
remedy that, we now have an oil drip system which we start at around cone 5
to help supply the needed energy. (while still stoking)
Here are a couple of glazes I rally like. All are cone 10 reduction.
Rapunzels Hair: a warm golden ash with beautiful mottling. ( works well with
Nuka glaze)
14 lbs softwood ash (not washed)
14 lbs feldspar
6 lbs old hickory ball clay
6 lbs talc
add:
36 ounces rutile
20 ounces gerstley borate
Spruce: A pale summery green color
same as rapunzels hair except
add:
8 ounces copper oxide (black)
24 ounces barium carbonate
Minnesota Midnight: A dark- almost oil spot type glaze with exceptional
variations
17.5 lbs unwashed ash
17.5 lbs feldspar (custer)
7.5 lbs old hickory ball clay
7.5 lbs talc
add:
12 ounces of black cobalt oxide
4 ounces chrome oxide
2 ounces nickel oxide
6.5 ounces rutile
Nuka: A glaze which by itself has wonderful variation betwee blue and white
and clear.
This glaze also works wonders with various native ground rocks.
50 lbs ash (unwashed)
60 lbs feldspar(custer)
40 lbs quartz
Hope you like these,
Warmest Regards,
Tony Allison
At 09:20 AM 1/26/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>Hi Everybody,
>
>Here in SD, hardwood is pretty dear. Certainly, no one burns it .
>I realize ash varies with the acre of land the wood came from, but if
>anyone has formulas for any type of softwood ash, I'd sure appreciate
>seeing them. It would be fun to experiment with some ash glazes, and nice
>to have at least a vague idea of what oxides are creating the effect.
>Ponderosa Pine is *the* predominant life form in the Black Hills. They
>outnumber us all.
>
>Also, if anyone has experience with burning softwood for firing, I'd like
>to hear how it works out for you.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Cindy in SD
>
Mark Mondloch on tue 27 jan 98
Hi Cindy,
I use larger hard-wood in the early part of the firings for a slower fire with
a short flame and switch to pine slabs at about ^010 and use until ^10 flat.
The pine burns fast and hot with a long flame and creates virtually no coals to
clog up the ash-pit. There's hardly any ash left in the pit after a firing
either. I assume it becomes volitile towards the end of the firing. Whatever
wood you use, it should be very, very dry.
Sylvia Mondloch, Wi.-with lots of dripping icicles
Cindy wrote:
----------------------------Original
essage---------------------------- Also, if anyone
has experience with burning softwood for firing, I'd like to hear how it works
out for you.
Thanks,Cindy in SD
Dennis Davis on tue 27 jan 98
Cindy,
If you are going to experiment with ash glazes you should check out Phil Rogers
book "Ash Glazes". Lots of helpful information plus analysis of various wood
and straw ashes.
Good Luck.
Dennis in Stafford, VA
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