John Britt on tue 6 dec 11
Jon,
Here is a scaled drawing:
http://sidestoke.com/bourrykiln/bourry.html
and another :
http://www.duncanshearer.co.nz/kilnplans/bourrykiln.html
And Gary Hatcher (Mr. Bourry Box)
http://www.pinemills.com/woodfiring.html
or http://www.coara.or.jp/~lucyfer/poterie/poterie-e1.html
Plenty of stuff on-line and you can just email them with questions. I alw=
=3D
ays=3D20
find it is best to survey a bunch of people before deciding on my design.=
=3D
Hope it helps,
John Britt Pottery
Craig Edwards on thu 8 dec 11
Yup, Sidestoke puts it out there.
I've a few passing thoughts.
Bourry boxs make fire do something that is not in its nature. It makes the
flames go downward. Having built several kilns with this wonderful tech. I
find that if you build the bourry box well, making it airtight it will work
like a charm. Pulling in air,in all the wrong places, because of bad
materials or craftmanship, well, not so much.
Also, building a grate instead of hobs, makes for easier wood prep and
stoking.
Side doors instead of a lift up lid is my preference, but that's just my
choose.
Also, I've found that putting a stoking grate between the bagwall and wall
at the floor level, with a stoke hole about 9" above the chamber grate,
makes for easy firing. If you time stokes with the bourry box and the
sidestoke, getting temp quickly and easily is not a problem.
Winter came to Minnesota and all outside kiln building is on full stop. In
the spring a double bourry box kiln is scheduled... oh Minnesota Winters!
Make Good Pots
~Craig
New London MN
http://woodfiredpottery.blogspot.com/
On Thu, Dec 8, 2011 at 6:15 AM, Paul Haigh wrote:
> Sidestoke.com to the rescue! What a great site
>
> Single Bourry critical dimensions- I used this and Olsen in designing my
> kiln, and would use this again:
> http://sidestoke.com/bourrykiln/bourry.html
>
> Someone's twin Bourry: http://sidestoke.com/inferno/ti.html
>
> More links: http://sidestoke.com/
>
>
>
> Paul Haigh
> Wiley Hill Mudworks
> Web: http://wileyhill.com
> Facebook:
> http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wiley-Hill-Mudworks/108145139230652
> etsy: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WileyHillMudworks
>
--
Lee on thu 8 dec 11
On Thu, Dec 8, 2011 at 7:04 AM, Craig Edwards wro=
=3D
te:
> Winter came to Minnesota and all outside kiln building is on full stop.
>In the spring a double bourry box kiln is scheduled... oh Minnesota Winter=
=3D
s!
Inspector comes today to check out new 2 psi meter and 60'
line to the kilnshed. I'll have to pickaxe the dirt into the 28'
trench me and Steve dug before it got cold. Put up the shed for the
Torchbearer. (Steve helped with that too.) Leaving kiln off the
burners until after inspection to make it easier for plumber to hook
up.
--
=3DA0Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
=3DA0"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D9=
7that is, =3D
"The
land of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent
within itself." -- John O'Donohue
Craig Edwards on fri 9 dec 11
Steve; I have to agree completely. IFB makes for better insulation and a
more even fire but the volume of gases is the same.
I always try and overbuild the firebox and flues. Then fire and tweek them,
it is so much easier to just put a brick in a flue than making it bigger
YMMV.
--
Make Good Pots
~Craig
New London MN
http://woodfiredpottery.blogspot.com/
On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 8:16 AM, Steve Mills
wrote:
> Jon,
> I wouldn't make that assumption.
> IFB's better thermal efficiency won't compensate for reduced volume or
> flow.
> With our last kiln in SC the fireboxes and stack were hard brick, and the
> setting area high temp IFBs.
> Board insulation was added to all exteriors except the flue.
>
> Steve M
>
> Sent from my iPod
>
> On 9 Dec 2011, at 05:57, jonathan byler wrote:
>
> > I assume with olsen's book, he is talking about hardbrick kilns? ours
> > is most likely going to be hardbrick lined, both for durability and
> > because it is what we have. If that is the case and we were to switch
> > to IFB on the interior, I would assume we could get away with smaller
> > firebox grate area and smaller flue sizes.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Dec 8, 2011, at 6:15 AM, Paul Haigh wrote:
> >
> >> Sidestoke.com to the rescue! What a great site
> >>
> >> Single Bourry critical dimensions- I used this and Olsen in
> >> designing my kiln, and would use this again:
> http://sidestoke.com/bourrykiln/bourry.html
> >>
> >> Someone's twin Bourry: http://sidestoke.com/inferno/ti.html
> >>
> >> More links: http://sidestoke.com/
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Paul Haigh
> >> Wiley Hill Mudworks
> >> Web: http://wileyhill.com
> >> Facebook:
> http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wiley-Hill-Mudworks/108145139230652
> >> etsy: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WileyHillMudworks
>
gary navarre on sat 10 dec 11
It has been interesting running the ideas I and som=3D
Hey Folks, Jon,=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0It has been interesting running the ideas I a=
nd som=3D
e of you other wood firers have about firing (my) kilns or burning wood in =
=3D
general past my friends up here in Upper Michigan. Peter got to stoke last =
=3D
firing and I've been able to brainstorm with non-potters who keep their hom=
=3D
es and camps warm with real wood heaters. Peter, the nuclear reactor qualif=
=3D
ied hermit, suggested an O2 trickle feed into the mousehole to keep throat =
=3D
arch clear but it would be to expensive so I've thought of borrowing Rick's=
=3D
portable air bladder of compressed air and squirt it into the hole to blow=
=3D
the ash out of the way.I added 2.5 feet of tight lagged hardbrick to the s=
=3D
tack (16'8") to increase the draft so maybe I can also get by with a long s=
=3D
teel poker. From what I've read I should stir the coals once in a while to =
=3D
make them hotter.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0There is no real advantage to lining a=
Bourry =3D
with IFB because those brick take a hell of a beating and the dust will fol=
=3D
low the flame onto the pots. If I had more IFB I'd coat the outside but I w=
=3D
on't with this kiln. There were enough to cover the main chamber and I'm co=
=3D
nsidering another layer of blanket.=3DA0=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0Part of the efficien=
cy I des=3D
igned into my crossdraft Bourry is a Pignose fire box at the level of the s=
=3D
econdary air ports. I use this to conserve my energy by using it like a bar=
=3D
rel stove and candle the early stages for drying the greenware and even inc=
=3D
rease the temperature while sleeping and get to more frequent stoking after=
=3D
being rested,,, ideally speaking. This kiln is twice the size of my first =
=3D
successful prototype so it ends up taking somewhat longer to fire alone. I =
=3D
might have to figure out that trick Lee mentions about the guy who takes th=
=3D
e chamber up to 2000F and closes it off to come back after a nap and reopen=
=3D
stoking before it cools below quartz conversion and takes it back on up to=
=3D
melt the glazes. I almost did it during the first firing (7 days) but heat=
=3D
ed too quickly after loosing color so pots up front cracked badly. Some of =
=3D
the results were keepers and a few sold so I'm satisfied. The remainder got=
=3D
refired more than twice. I made a
bunch of new pots for the next firing so I hope the changes I made to the =
=3D
stack height, firebox volume, loading pattern, and fuel species get more of=
=3D
what I'm after throughout the whole load.=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0There is a lot mor=
e to w=3D
ood kilns than design so give the whole process some thought and stay in th=
=3D
ere eh.=3D0A=3D0A=3DA0=3DA0 =3D0A=3D0AGary Navarre=3D0ANavarre Pottery=3D0A=
Navarre Enterpri=3D
ses=3D0ANorway, Michigan, USA=3D0Ahttp://www.NavarrePottery.etsy.com=3D0Aht=
tp://w=3D
ww.youtube.com/GindaUP=3D0Ahttp://public.fotki.com/GindaUP/=3D0A=3D0A=3D0A=
=3D0A______=3D
__________________________=3D0A From: jonathan byler =
=3D0AT=3D
o: Clayart@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG =3D0ASent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 7:45 PM=
=3D0A=3D
Subject: Re: [Clayart] wood kiln firebox sizing... thoughts?=3D0A =3D0AI ha=
ve t=3D
hree sets of plans that we are considering. one is the same=3D0Adesign (giv=
e =3D
or take) as euan craig/lee love use.=3DA0 another takes that=3D0Aand puts a=
bou=3D
rrey box on the front and moves the stacking door to the=3D0Aside.=3DA0 a t=
hird=3D
would be a standard cross draught bourrey box design.=3D0A=3D0AI also poss=
ibly=3D
have access to a combustion engineer who studies fire=3D0Afor a living.=3D=
A0 I=3D
am going to see what I can do to ply him with beer=3D0Aand have a conversa=
ti=3D
on and see what his ideas are.=3DA0 I am interested=3D0Ain trying to design=
mor=3D
e efficiency into our kiln than the normal=3D0Aofferings have.=3DA0 I know =
of s=3D
ome obvious ways, such as pre heating the=3D0Aair, but hopefully he will ha=
ve=3D
some other ideas that we have not yet=3D0Athought of.=3D0A=3D0A=3D0AOn Dec=
10, 201=3D
1, at 9:29 AM, Craig Edwards wrote:=3D0A=3D0A> Jonathan: I think that the s=
peed=3D
of gases flowing through a kiln has=3D0A> to do with the chimney as much a=
s =3D
the size of the flue openings. You=3D0A> do need flow to make the kiln work=
..=3D
. the volume of gases is not=3D0A> consistent but varies with stoking and t=
em=3D
p of the kiln.=3DA0 I=3D0A> understand your point, and it's valid. Also you=
do =3D
need some heat=3D0A> going up the chimney... a hot chimney makes the kiln d=
ra=3D
w. Dampers=3D0A> are good to have.=3DA0 There are so many variables... tigh=
t or=3D
lose=3D0A> stacking. Even and the lay of the land around the kiln.=3D0A> C=
onfu=3D
sed yet?=3D0A>=3DA0 Do you have any sketches?=3D0A>=3D0A> --=3D0A> Make Goo=
d Pots=3D0A>=3D
~Craig=3D0A> New London MN=3D0A> http://woodfiredpottery.blogspot.com/=3D0=
A>=3D0A>=3D
On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 2:06 PM, jonathan byler =3D0A> =
wr=3D
ote:=3D0A> the volume of gases would be the same, and you would get faster=
=3D0A=3D
> firings...=3DA0 I would assume you could use a smaller firebox on an IFB=
=3D0A=3D
> kiln, just as you don't need as much BTU output from your burners on=3D0A=
> =3D
an IFB kiln in comparison with a similar hardbrick kiln.=3D0A>=3D0A> my mai=
n qu=3D
estion was whether I should be upsizing even more to=3D0A> compensate for t=
he=3D
fact that I am building with hardbrick.=3DA0 there is=3D0A> a certain poin=
t wh=3D
ere faster gas throughput is definitely not more=3D0A> efficient, as you ar=
e =3D
not absorbing as much of the heat in the kiln=3D0A> before the hot gasses g=
o =3D
up the chimney.=3D0A>=3D0A>=3D0A>=3D0A> On Dec 9, 2011, at 10:23 AM, Craig =
Edwards =3D
wrote:=3D0A>=3D0A> Steve; I have to agree completely. IFB makes for better =
insu=3D
lation=3D0A> and a=3D0A> more even fire but the volume of gases is the same=
.=3D0A=3D
> I always try and overbuild the firebox and flues. Then fire and=3D0A> twe=
ek=3D
them,=3D0A> it is so much easier to just put a brick in a flue than making=
i=3D
t=3D0A> bigger=3D0A> YMMV.=3D0A>=3D0A> --=3D0A> Make Good Pots=3D0A> ~Craig
jonathan byler on sat 10 dec 11
I have three sets of plans that we are considering. one is the same
design (give or take) as euan craig/lee love use. another takes that
and puts a bourrey box on the front and moves the stacking door to the
side. a third would be a standard cross draught bourrey box design.
I also possibly have access to a combustion engineer who studies fire
for a living. I am going to see what I can do to ply him with beer
and have a conversation and see what his ideas are. I am interested
in trying to design more efficiency into our kiln than the normal
offerings have. I know of some obvious ways, such as pre heating the
air, but hopefully he will have some other ideas that we have not yet
thought of.
On Dec 10, 2011, at 9:29 AM, Craig Edwards wrote:
> Jonathan: I think that the speed of gases flowing through a kiln has
> to do with the chimney as much as the size of the flue openings. You
> do need flow to make the kiln work... the volume of gases is not
> consistent but varies with stoking and temp of the kiln. I
> understand your point, and it's valid. Also you do need some heat
> going up the chimney... a hot chimney makes the kiln draw. Dampers
> are good to have. There are so many variables... tight or lose
> stacking. Even and the lay of the land around the kiln.
> Confused yet?
> Do you have any sketches?
>
> --
> Make Good Pots
> ~Craig
> New London MN
> http://woodfiredpottery.blogspot.com/
>
> On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 2:06 PM, jonathan byler
> wrote:
> the volume of gases would be the same, and you would get faster
> firings... I would assume you could use a smaller firebox on an IFB
> kiln, just as you don't need as much BTU output from your burners on
> an IFB kiln in comparison with a similar hardbrick kiln.
>
> my main question was whether I should be upsizing even more to
> compensate for the fact that I am building with hardbrick. there is
> a certain point where faster gas throughput is definitely not more
> efficient, as you are not absorbing as much of the heat in the kiln
> before the hot gasses go up the chimney.
>
>
>
> On Dec 9, 2011, at 10:23 AM, Craig Edwards wrote:
>
> Steve; I have to agree completely. IFB makes for better insulation
> and a
> more even fire but the volume of gases is the same.
> I always try and overbuild the firebox and flues. Then fire and
> tweek them,
> it is so much easier to just put a brick in a flue than making it
> bigger
> YMMV.
>
> --
> Make Good Pots
> ~Craig
> New London MN
> http://woodfiredpottery.blogspot.com/
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 9, 2011 at 8:16 AM, Steve Mills
> wrote:
>
> Jon,
> I wouldn't make that assumption.
> IFB's better thermal efficiency won't compensate for reduced volume or
> flow.
> With our last kiln in SC the fireboxes and stack were hard brick,
> and the
> setting area high temp IFBs.
> Board insulation was added to all exteriors except the flue.
>
> Steve M
>
> Sent from my iPod
>
> On 9 Dec 2011, at 05:57, jonathan byler wrote:
>
> I assume with olsen's book, he is talking about hardbrick kilns? ours
> is most likely going to be hardbrick lined, both for durability and
> because it is what we have. If that is the case and we were to switch
> to IFB on the interior, I would assume we could get away with smaller
> firebox grate area and smaller flue sizes.
>
>
>
> On Dec 8, 2011, at 6:15 AM, Paul Haigh wrote:
>
> Sidestoke.com to the rescue! What a great site
>
> Single Bourry critical dimensions- I used this and Olsen in
> designing my kiln, and would use this again:
> http://sidestoke.com/bourrykiln/bourry.html
>
> Someone's twin Bourry: http://sidestoke.com/inferno/ti.html
>
> More links: http://sidestoke.com/
>
>
>
> Paul Haigh
> Wiley Hill Mudworks
> Web: http://wileyhill.com
> Facebook:
> http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wiley-Hill-Mudworks/108145139230652
> etsy: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WileyHillMudworks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Lee on sun 11 dec 11
On Thu, Dec 8, 2011 at 11:57 PM, jonathan byler wrote:
> I assume with olsen's book, he is talking about hardbrick kilns? ours
> is most likely going to be hardbrick lined, both for durability and
> because it is what we have. If that is the case and we were to switch
> to IFB on the interior, I would assume we could get away with smaller
> firebox grate area and smaller flue sizes.\
The book is worth owning. He speaks to both hard and softbrick kilns. The
rules don't change because of the brick difference. It is all about air
flow. Think of the air and flame as a fluid, because that is how it
behaves.
His fastfire has hardbrick in the firebox but softbrick for
the firechamber.
--
Lee Love in Minneapolis
http://mingeisota.blogspot.com/
"Ta tIr na n-=3DF3g ar chul an tI=3D97tIr dlainn trina ch=3DE9ile"=3D97tha=
t is, "T=3D
he land
of eternal youth is behind the house, a beautiful land fluent within
itself." -- John O'Donohue
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