gary ohlman on tue 27 jan 98
I am wanting to build my own raku kiln out of a 55 gal. oil container
lined with fiberfrax (sp?) and fire it with propane from a gas grill
tank.
Does anyone know what kind of burner to use or where I can get one.
If you have an easy to build kiln design please let me know the details.
Thank you.
Gary-C-Ohlman@worldnet.att.net
Mark Issenberg on wed 28 jan 98
Gary, instead of a metal (heavy) 55 gal drum ,I have used metal lathe the
stuff they put plaster on. I cut it with shears and made 2 inch buttons
with 2 small holes and used elemant wire to hold the buttons to the
frame. My first Raku kiln was made from a expanded metal garbage can . I
still have it and it has been years. The buttons hold the fiber in place,
if you want any more info E mail or call 305-232-0278. I made the buttons
out of Raku clay.
Also my vanilla orchid vine is loaded with blooms and they are
open and wild parrots are eating the seeds of my kapok tree,I guess I
will miss some things from Miami
Mark in Miami
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Cliff High on wed 28 jan 98
It sounds obvious, but go to local propane furnace and gas supplier.
They will help as you will use LOTs of their product. If all else
fails, you can do it with one of the lon handled propane weed burners
that are used in landscaping. Cost around 30 here in oly wa.
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> I am wanting to build my own raku kiln out of a 55 gal. oil container
> lined with fiberfrax (sp?) and fire it with propane from a gas grill
> tank.
> Does anyone know what kind of burner to use or where I can get one.
> If you have an easy to build kiln design please let me know the details.
>
> Thank you.
> Gary-C-Ohlman@worldnet.att.net
>
Cliff High
Tenax Software Engineering
chigh@vallier.com
Vortex is at http://www.vallier.com/tenax/vortex.html
Cornix freeware is at http://www.vallier.com/tenax/cornix.html
You must be the change you wish to see in the world. - Gandhi
John H. Rodgers on thu 29 jan 98
-- [ From: John H. Rodgers * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
Gary, there are many opinions as to how to go about building a raku firing
setup, and here is mine.
Build your kiln shell from metal lath, the kind used in plaster and tile
work in bathrooms and showers. Line it with a two inch thick refractory
fiber, holding the fiber in place with ceramic buttons held by element wire
or nichrome wire used for bead making. Make the lid the same way. As for
burners, there are a number of ways to go, but for my money, call Wards and
get a venturi burner. It will save a whole lot of hassle, and allow you to
be more efficient in operating your kiln. Wards has a web site at
WardBurner@aol.com. Using propane for fuel is great, but be sure and get a
tank big enough. A problem encountered in firing raku is that as fuel is
used from the tank the temperature drops, resulting in a loss of fuel
pressure long before you have used up all the fuel. A larger tank will help
with this problem. I believe it was Nils Lou that designed a dip-stick valve
that can be retrofitted to a propane tank, allowing fuel to be drawn from
the bottom of the tank and carried out to the burner as a liquid, at which
point it would vaporize for burning. I think it is available through Axner,
and possibly others. It is a bit pricey by worth looking into.
My two cents!
John Rodgers
The sun is shining in Alabama once again! I can't believe it!!
---===Diane Mann===--- on thu 29 jan 98
Gary, I took the advice of another Clayarter some time ago and turned an old
electric kiln into a raku kiln. It's about the same size as a 55 gal. oil
drum. I use a weed burner hooked up to the gas grill tank. You can
purchase these for about $65 at an ag supply store such as Rural King or a
Tractor Supply Store. They are mainly designed to burn out weeds in fence
rows. They work great. I just prop it up on bricks and create a "tunnel"
with the bricks for it to lie in going up to the port hole of the kiln. I
do have trouble with a 5 gallon tank freezing up if I do more than one
firing at a time, so I would recommend a bigger tank. Or keep 2 on hand and
switch off.
Good luck. Diane Mann
At 01:18 PM 1/27/98 EST, you wrote:
>----------------------------Original message----------------------------
>I am wanting to build my own raku kiln out of a 55 gal. oil container
>lined with fiberfrax (sp?) and fire it with propane from a gas grill
>tank.
>Does anyone know what kind of burner to use or where I can get one.
>If you have an easy to build kiln design please let me know the details.
>
>Thank you.
>Gary-C-Ohlman@worldnet.att.net
>
An intellect is a person who can listen to the William Tell Overture without
thinking of The Lone Ranger.
bobbi on fri 30 jan 98
John H. Rodgers wrote:
>
> ----------------------------Original message----------------------------
> -- [ From: John H. Rodgers * EMC.Ver #2.5.02 ] --
from Bobbi Oliver
This is the Raku kiln design that I saw at Humboldt St. U. in northern
California. I have used the one I built at home for more than 2 years
and it works well and is holding up well.
I used heavy gauge fencing wire (2"x4" square holes) rolled it up to my
shape and lined it with kaowool, cut burner port out, door, and vent,
added a venturi burner and a regulator and high pressure hose from my
propane dealer. I used a layer of cement block, layer of hard fire
brick, layer of soft brick for my floor. This design is cheap, easy to
do, and very light weight. Can be built to any size with wire cut to the
shape and size you want. I have had great success with this kiln! Bobbi
for more info email bobbimik@jps.net
Andre Lopez on fri 25 aug 06
It is time for a new raku kiln. My old clam shell design is way too leaky;
it has warped badly and the wire is pulling away from the frame. I have
decided on a top hat design with two inches of fiber, ITC coating and a
frame with pulley system. What I'm having difficulties figuring out are
fire box size, burner port and flue placement and size. Here are some of my
questions:
1. Is it advisable to re-use firebricks that are cracked but still fit well
together or some with glaze spatters?
2. If inner diameter of kiln is 20 inches, what size firebox and how many
courses of brick do I need?
3. Where do I place the burner port? In my present kiln, it is at the very
bottom thru the firebox but I have seen pictures of several kilns with
burner port in the middle of the hat. Is this a good idea?
4. According to Steve Branfman' books, flue shoud be 1.5 times burner port
size. If my burner port is five inches square, then flue should be 7 inches
in diameter. This seem very large to me. Should flue be placed on or off
center? Also, in his recent article in Pottery Making Illustrated, he
referred to two different kiln designs on that website, but I could not find
them. Any help on this?
Bear in mind that my nearest Ceramics Supply Store is over one thousand
miles away, so I can't just stop by and check out the kilns. Any help would
be greatly appreciated.
One last question is about what to do with the old kiln. Is it OK to haul
it away to local landfill? Or should I dig a BIG hole and bury it?
Nan Lopez
Clay Pot Farm
Bullet Tree Falls, Cayo
Belize
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Snail Scott on fri 25 aug 06
At 08:08 AM 8/25/2006 -0600, you wrote:
>4. According to Steve Branfman' books, flue shoud be 1.5 times burner port
>size. If my burner port is five inches square, then flue should be 7 inches
>in diameter. This seem very large to me.
We should speak in terms of area, not
inches square or diameter.
You said one is 5" square, but that the
other is 7" in diameter; so one hole is
square and the other round? That would
be comparing apples and oranges, unless
we calculate the area of the holes. This
is why it's better to describe hole size
by area and not any single crosswise
dimension. A damper hole can be any shape,
but the only number that matters is the
total area, which can be easily compared.
A hole 5" x 5" square is actually 25
square inches. A hole that's 7" x 7"
would actually be 49 square inches:
basically twice the size of the 5"
hole, not 1.5.
If they're round holes, then you use the
pi-r-squared formula: 5" diameter means
2.5" radius, squared would be 6.5", times
pi (3.14) would make it 19.6 square inches.
A 7" round hole would be 38 square inches,
giving a ratio of about 1.9.
If the burner port is 5" square and the
damper flue is 7" diameter (i.e. round),
then the ratio is 25 sq inches to 38 sq
inches: pretty close to the recommended
1.5.
-Snail
p.s. Airflow IS affected by shape at the
extremes: a hole that's 1/2" wide and 50
inches long will move air differently than
a 5" x 5" hole even though they're the same
area, but for more typical proportions,
it's probably not enough to worry about.
-S.
Robert W. Anderson on fri 25 aug 06
Nan,
Send me your e-mail address, and I'll send you
some photos of my light weight, portable fiber
kiln, along with directions, if you're
interested. By the way, don't spray ITC on the
fiber. It flakes, breaks lose, falls in pots, big
mess...been there, done that...!!!
Robert Anderson
rwanaa@charter.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andre Lopez"
To:
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 9:08 AM
Subject: raku kiln design
> It is time for a new raku kiln. My old clam
shell design is way too leaky;
> it has warped badly and the wire is pulling away
from the frame. I have
> decided on a top hat design with two inches of
fiber, ITC coating and a
> frame with pulley system. What I'm having
difficulties figuring out are
> fire box size, burner port and flue placement
and size. Here are some of my
> questions:
> 1. Is it advisable to re-use firebricks that
are cracked but still fit well
> together or some with glaze spatters?
> 2. If inner diameter of kiln is 20 inches, what
size firebox and how many
> courses of brick do I need?
> 3. Where do I place the burner port? In my
present kiln, it is at the very
> bottom thru the firebox but I have seen pictures
of several kilns with
> burner port in the middle of the hat. Is this a
good idea?
> 4. According to Steve Branfman' books, flue
shoud be 1.5 times burner port
> size. If my burner port is five inches square,
then flue should be 7 inches
> in diameter. This seem very large to me. Should
flue be placed on or off
> center? Also, in his recent article in Pottery
Making Illustrated, he
> referred to two different kiln designs on that
website, but I could not find
> them. Any help on this?
> Bear in mind that my nearest Ceramics Supply
Store is over one thousand
> miles away, so I can't just stop by and check
out the kilns. Any help would
> be greatly appreciated.
> One last question is about what to do with the
old kiln. Is it OK to haul
> it away to local landfill? Or should I dig a
BIG hole and bury it?
> Nan Lopez
> Clay Pot Farm
> Bullet Tree Falls, Cayo
> Belize
>
>
__________________________________________________
_______________
> Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger!
Download today it's FREE!
>
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
__________________________________________________
____________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or
change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database:
268.11.6/427 - Release Date: 8/24/2006
>
>
Patrick Cross on fri 25 aug 06
Ooo..ooo! Can I get on that email list for photos of your raku kiln?
cone10soda@Gmail.com
Patrick Cross
On 8/25/06, Robert W. Anderson wrote:
>
> Nan,
>
> Send me your e-mail address, and I'll send you
> some photos of my light weight, portable fiber
> kiln, along with directions, if you're
> interested. By the way, don't spray ITC on the
> fiber. It flakes, breaks lose, falls in pots, big
> mess...been there, done that...!!!
>
> Robert Anderson
> rwanaa@charter.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Andre Lopez"
> To:
> Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 9:08 AM
> Subject: raku kiln design
>
>
> > It is time for a new raku kiln. My old clam
> shell design is way too leaky;
> > it has warped badly and the wire is pulling away
> from the frame. I have
> > decided on a top hat design with two inches of
> fiber, ITC coating and a
> > frame with pulley system. What I'm having
> difficulties figuring out are
> > fire box size, burner port and flue placement
> and size. Here are some of my
> > questions:
> > 1. Is it advisable to re-use firebricks that
> are cracked but still fit well
> > together or some with glaze spatters?
> > 2. If inner diameter of kiln is 20 inches, what
> size firebox and how many
> > courses of brick do I need?
> > 3. Where do I place the burner port? In my
> present kiln, it is at the very
> > bottom thru the firebox but I have seen pictures
> of several kilns with
> > burner port in the middle of the hat. Is this a
> good idea?
> > 4. According to Steve Branfman' books, flue
> shoud be 1.5 times burner port
> > size. If my burner port is five inches square,
> then flue should be 7 inches
> > in diameter. This seem very large to me. Should
> flue be placed on or off
> > center? Also, in his recent article in Pottery
> Making Illustrated, he
> > referred to two different kiln designs on that
> website, but I could not find
> > them. Any help on this?
> > Bear in mind that my nearest Ceramics Supply
> Store is over one thousand
> > miles away, so I can't just stop by and check
> out the kilns. Any help would
> > be greatly appreciated.
> > One last question is about what to do with the
> old kiln. Is it OK to haul
> > it away to local landfill? Or should I dig a
> BIG hole and bury it?
> > Nan Lopez
> > Clay Pot Farm
> > Bullet Tree Falls, Cayo
> > Belize
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________
> _______________
> > Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger!
> Download today it's FREE!
> >
> http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
> >
> >
> __________________________________________________
> ____________________________
> > Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
> >
> > You may look at the archives for the list or
> change your subscription
> > settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
> >
> > Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
> reached at melpots@pclink.com.
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database:
> 268.11.6/427 - Release Date: 8/24/2006
> >
> >
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
> melpots@pclink.com.
>
Craig Clark on fri 25 aug 06
Robert, I was planning on treating the fiber blanket in my larger raku
kiln with ITC 100. I have used it sucessfully on several soft brick
kilns but have not yet used any on fiber blanket. Please describe your
experience in greater detail. How did you apply the ITC, etc. How long
did it last? Virtually everything that I have heard about ITC is of a
positive nature. As far as I know it,or another commericial variant, is
being used extensively in industry.
Thank you
Craig DUnn Clark
619 East 11 1/2 St
Houston, Texas 77008
(713)861-2083
mudman@hal-pc.org
Robert W. Anderson wrote:
>Nan,
>
>Send me your e-mail address, and I'll send you
>some photos of my light weight, portable fiber
>kiln, along with directions, if you're
>interested. By the way, don't spray ITC on the
>fiber. It flakes, breaks lose, falls in pots, big
>mess...been there, done that...!!!
>
>Robert Anderson
>rwanaa@charter.net
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Andre Lopez"
>To:
>Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 9:08 AM
>Subject: raku kiln design
>
>
>
>
>>It is time for a new raku kiln. My old clam
>>
>>
>shell design is way too leaky;
>
>
>>it has warped badly and the wire is pulling away
>>
>>
>from the frame. I have
>
>
>>decided on a top hat design with two inches of
>>
>>
>fiber, ITC coating and a
>
>
>>frame with pulley system. What I'm having
>>
>>
>difficulties figuring out are
>
>
>>fire box size, burner port and flue placement
>>
>>
>and size. Here are some of my
>
>
>>questions:
>>1. Is it advisable to re-use firebricks that
>>
>>
>are cracked but still fit well
>
>
>>together or some with glaze spatters?
>>2. If inner diameter of kiln is 20 inches, what
>>
>>
>size firebox and how many
>
>
>>courses of brick do I need?
>>3. Where do I place the burner port? In my
>>
>>
>present kiln, it is at the very
>
>
>>bottom thru the firebox but I have seen pictures
>>
>>
>of several kilns with
>
>
>>burner port in the middle of the hat. Is this a
>>
>>
>good idea?
>
>
>>4. According to Steve Branfman' books, flue
>>
>>
>shoud be 1.5 times burner port
>
>
>>size. If my burner port is five inches square,
>>
>>
>then flue should be 7 inches
>
>
>>in diameter. This seem very large to me. Should
>>
>>
>flue be placed on or off
>
>
>>center? Also, in his recent article in Pottery
>>
>>
>Making Illustrated, he
>
>
>>referred to two different kiln designs on that
>>
>>
>website, but I could not find
>
>
>>them. Any help on this?
>>Bear in mind that my nearest Ceramics Supply
>>
>>
>Store is over one thousand
>
>
>>miles away, so I can't just stop by and check
>>
>>
>out the kilns. Any help would
>
>
>>be greatly appreciated.
>>One last question is about what to do with the
>>
>>
>old kiln. Is it OK to haul
>
>
>>it away to local landfill? Or should I dig a
>>
>>
>BIG hole and bury it?
>
>
>>Nan Lopez
>>Clay Pot Farm
>>Bullet Tree Falls, Cayo
>>Belize
>>
>>
>>
>>
>__________________________________________________
>_______________
>
>
>>Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger!
>>
>>
>Download today it's FREE!
>
>
>http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
>>
>>
>__________________________________________________
>____________________________
>
>
>>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>>
>>You may look at the archives for the list or
>>
>>
>change your subscription
>
>
>>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>>
>>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
>>
>>
>reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>>--
>>No virus found in this incoming message.
>>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>>Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database:
>>
>>
>268.11.6/427 - Release Date: 8/24/2006
>
>
>>
>>
>
>______________________________________________________________________________
>Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
>You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
>settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
>Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
>
Smith, Judy on sun 27 aug 06
Could I also have these directions? My e-mail is judy.smith@nscc.edu.
Thanks,
Judy=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Clayart [mailto:CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG] On Behalf Of Robert W.
Anderson
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 10:47 AM
To: CLAYART@LSV.CERAMICS.ORG
Subject: Re: raku kiln design
Nan,
Send me your e-mail address, and I'll send you some photos of my light
weight, portable fiber kiln, along with directions, if you're
interested. By the way, don't spray ITC on the fiber. It flakes,
breaks lose, falls in pots, big mess...been there, done that...!!!
Robert Anderson
rwanaa@charter.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andre Lopez"
To:
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 9:08 AM
Subject: raku kiln design
> It is time for a new raku kiln. My old clam
shell design is way too leaky;
> it has warped badly and the wire is pulling away
from the frame. I have
> decided on a top hat design with two inches of
fiber, ITC coating and a
> frame with pulley system. What I'm having
difficulties figuring out are
> fire box size, burner port and flue placement
and size. Here are some of my
> questions:
> 1. Is it advisable to re-use firebricks that
are cracked but still fit well
> together or some with glaze spatters?
> 2. If inner diameter of kiln is 20 inches, what
size firebox and how many
> courses of brick do I need?
> 3. Where do I place the burner port? In my
present kiln, it is at the very
> bottom thru the firebox but I have seen pictures
of several kilns with
> burner port in the middle of the hat. Is this a
good idea?
> 4. According to Steve Branfman' books, flue
shoud be 1.5 times burner port
> size. If my burner port is five inches square,
then flue should be 7 inches
> in diameter. This seem very large to me. Should
flue be placed on or off
> center? Also, in his recent article in Pottery
Making Illustrated, he
> referred to two different kiln designs on that
website, but I could not find
> them. Any help on this?
> Bear in mind that my nearest Ceramics Supply
Store is over one thousand
> miles away, so I can't just stop by and check
out the kilns. Any help would
> be greatly appreciated.
> One last question is about what to do with the
old kiln. Is it OK to haul
> it away to local landfill? Or should I dig a
BIG hole and bury it?
> Nan Lopez
> Clay Pot Farm
> Bullet Tree Falls, Cayo
> Belize
>
>
__________________________________________________
_______________
> Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger!
Download today it's FREE!
>
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
>
>
__________________________________________________
____________________________
> Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
>
> You may look at the archives for the list or
change your subscription
> settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
>
> Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be
reached at melpots@pclink.com.
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database:
268.11.6/427 - Release Date: 8/24/2006
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
______
Send postings to clayart@lsv.ceramics.org
You may look at the archives for the list or change your subscription
settings from http://www.ceramics.org/clayart/
Moderator of the list is Mel Jacobson who may be reached at
melpots@pclink.com.
| |
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