Earl Krueger on tue 3 jan 12
Many people are doing cone 6. A past standard used to be cone 10. Mel
says he is going to try 13. Tony is moving to earthenware at maybe cone 1.
It's a new year. My life has changed dramatically since I don't have the
day job anymore. I don't have a long history with any one clay body or
glaze so I'm thinking its time to start fresh again. And with a new kiln
as well.
But where?
As I understand it, cone:
10+ brown except porcelain. Colors burn out. Can melt most any glaze.
Uses more fuel.
6. More colors available. Good life on kiln elements. Saves energy. Need
boron, zinc or other flux to get good melt.
1. Body not fully vitrified. Bright colors available. Even less energy
consumption.
How about somewhere in-between.
What am I missing?
I know that aesthetic can override all other factors but since I don't
really have an established pottery self yet I'm open to any option.
Feed me your comments to help me choose.
Thanks...
Earl...
Deep in the woods of Oregon
KATHI LESUEUR on tue 3 jan 12
On Jan 3, 2012, at 4:18 PM, Earl Krueger wrote:
> Many people are doing cone 6. A past standard used to be cone 10. =3D
Mel
> says he is going to try 13. Tony is moving to earthenware at maybe =3D
cone 1.
>=3D20
> It's a new year. My life has changed dramatically since I don't have =3D
the
> day job anymore. I don't have a long history with any one clay body =3D
or
> glaze so I'm thinking its time to start fresh again. And with a new =3D
kiln
> as well.
>=3D20
> But where?
>=3D20
> As I understand it, cone:
>=3D20
> 10+ brown except porcelain. Colors burn out. Can melt most any =3D
glaze.
> Uses more fuel.>>>
>=3D20
Where did you get idea that you can't have color at cone 10. Go to my =3D
website and look at my pots. All cone 10. And, that is just a small =3D
selection of glazes I use.
KATHI LESUEUR
http://www.lesueurclaywork.com
David Woof on tue 3 jan 12
Hi Earl=3D2C
Mel wrote you about firing to your upper limit and filling that kiln with d=
=3D
ifferent loads and cussing and swearing as you dig deep holes during a lear=
=3D
ning curve.
I would second same and encourage you to put on your intrepid hat and go he=
=3D
ll bent=3D2C and up against the wall!!!=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0 Nothing even time is=
too pre=3D
cious too use and spend when one has dedicated self to a valuable goal. Its=
=3D
all just material to serve us. Trust the process.=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3DA0=3D20
I would like to say of cone 10: I never liked brown so have been wood firin=
=3D
g rich exciting colors in glazes at cones 10 t0 12 for 30 plus years.=3D20
I bought out a production studio a couple years ago where the couple had be=
=3D
en firing gas kilns to cone 16 for their glazed dinner ware sets. Colorful =
=3D
as hell! Almost too vibrantly gaudy for my taste. But they had been making =
=3D
a really good living for many years.. The wife=3D2C who had just turned 65 =
le=3D
ft because as she told me she wanted to expand and make something different=
=3D
. How many plates were thrown while they dialed in that family of glazes=3D=
2C=3D
the clay and porcelain=3D2C and firing protocols? Dedicated folks!!!
Among all the other goodies from their dissolution=3D2C I have 50 five gall=
on=3D
buckets of four different cone 16 glazes sitting in storage.=3DA0 May just=
g=3D
radually add them into "surprise" clay sculpture bodies when I remember to =
=3D
do it.
Regarding low fire bodies not being vitrified=3D3B one can formulate a "por=
ce=3D
lain" body that goes translucent at cone 04. A glassy matrix Vitrification =
=3D
can also be accomplished in low fire clay bodies as well=3D2C but one loses=
t=3D
he traditional earthenware character that I think most folks who fire in th=
=3D
at temperature range wish to utilize.
Many materials suppliers offer clay samples kits. And keep in mind as you t=
=3D
ry things=3D3B that 78% of what you read about anything related to clay=3D2=
C gl=3D
azes=3D2C and pottery is open season for someone else to come along and tel=
l =3D
you why that isn't true and here is the way to do it!!!
We can and do share valuable information but we still all must find and dev=
=3D
elop our own way and method.
Go for it friend=3D2C and tell us how you are doing=3D2C
David Woof
_______________________________________________________
16. A cone is a cone is a...
Posted by: "Earl Krueger" urlkrueger@GMAIL.COM=3D20
Date: Tue Jan 3=3D2C 2012 1:55 pm ((PST))
=3D20
Many people are doing cone 6. A past standard used to be cone 10. Mel
says he is going to try 13. Tony is moving to earthenware at maybe cone 1.
=3D20
It's a new year. My life has changed dramatically since I don't have the
day job anymore. I don't have a long history with any one clay body or
glaze so I'm thinking its time to start fresh again. And with a new kiln
as well.
=3D20
But where?
=3D20
As I understand it=3D2C cone:
=3D20
10+ brown except porcelain. Colors burn out. Can melt most any glaze.
Uses more fuel.
=3D20
6. More colors available. Good life on kiln elements. Saves energy. Need
boron=3D2C zinc or other flux to get good melt.
=3D20
1. Body not fully vitrified. Bright colors available. Even less energy
consumption.
=3D20
How about somewhere in-between.
=3D20
What am I missing?
=3D20
I know that aesthetic can override all other factors but since I don't
really have an established pottery self yet I'm open to any option.
=3D20
Feed me your comments to help me choose.
=3D20
Thanks...
Earl...
Deep in the woods of Oregon
=3D
Snail Scott on wed 4 jan 12
On Jan 3, 2012, at 3:18 PM, Earl Krueger wrote:
> As I understand it, cone:
> 10+ brown except porcelain. Colors burn out. Can melt most any glaze.
> Uses more fuel...
'Brown' is a choice. Some colors are easier to achieve
at low temps, as one can use less refractory colorants.
Others are only possible at high temps, like copper red
or that garish high-cobalt lavender. White, blue, green,
golden yellows, and more are still easy at all temps.
Also, there is a tendency to link ^10 with reduction,
which certainly lends itself to a fine brown palette, but
there's no reason they _have_ to be linked. It's trickier at
high altitude, but ^10 oxidation (neutral) atmosphere is
an option that has a popular past. Many of the color ranges
we associate with ^10 are in fact _reduction_ colors, not
high-temp colors. Further, modern encapsulated stains
make almost any color available in almost any firing
condition and temperature. Colors are easier at very
low temps, but they aren't impossible at high ones.
A more relevant factor is melting. At ^10, many materials
melt, and the palette of fluxes is broad. A wide variety of
recipes with very different chemistries becomes possible.
High temperatures =3D diversity of materials. At lower temps,
fewer materials melt, restricting the potential range of
glaze formulations. If you are a glaze-chemistry junkie,
this may be important to you, but many people, even at
^10 and up, settle into just a few preferred glazes, so
that breadth is only temporarily (or recurrently) relevant.
This is the big tradeoff in ^10 versus ^6, for me: versatility
of multiple melters, versus reduced fuel costs and firing
time. The shift to very low temps is a bigger change.
For the very low temps (aka earthenware), colors are easier
and cheaper. How much do you really spend on colorants,
though? It's not a critical factor, IMO. Firing cost, and - often
overlooked - equipment lifespan are more relevant. Most
relevant, however: Do you LIKE earthenware? It has a very
different physical presence - it has a look and feel quite
distinct from that of vitrified clay. When glazed, the distinction
can be muted, depending on the glaze, but aspects of that
feel remain. Some folks find it dry or punky, while others like
the softer, less harsh surface of earthenware clay. Up to you.
In the end, you need to make the work that satisfies you.
This ceramics gig doesn't pay so well that there's any real
economic reason to do it, and if you do work that doesn't
'do' it for you in a gut-level sense, than you might as well be
making widgets, because in short order you'll be wishing
you were. The differences in costs, etc, between different
firing modes are valid factors to consider when all else is
equal, but if it's NOT all equal - if you have a genuine
preference - then do that. To stay afloat, we need to make
sensible financial choices about our studio practice, but in
the end, we aren't here for financial practicality, we are
here for the work. Let it dictate. Just don't base the choice
on false assumptions.
-Snail
Steve Mills on wed 4 jan 12
Earl my friend,
Follow your instincts!
For me (but not everyone) there is a certain quality about cones 9/10 Gas, =
a=3D
nd 10/11 wood, but then I love my subtle glossy ash glazes, the ring of the=
p=3D
ot, and "fire painting" I get at those temperatures.=3D20
Nothing else floats it for me except the form of a Baluster Jug, but then I=
m=3D
ake them in Stoneware so...........
Steve M
Steve Mills
Bath
UK
Sent from my iPod
On 3 Jan 2012, at 21:18, Earl Krueger wrote:
> Many people are doing cone 6. A past standard used to be cone 10. Mel
> says he is going to try 13. Tony is moving to earthenware at maybe cone =
1=3D
.
>=3D20
> It's a new year. My life has changed dramatically since I don't have the
> day job anymore. I don't have a long history with any one clay body or
> glaze so I'm thinking its time to start fresh again. And with a new kiln
> as well.
>=3D20
> But where?
>=3D20
> As I understand it, cone:
>=3D20
> 10+ brown except porcelain. Colors burn out. Can melt most any glaze.
> Uses more fuel.
>=3D20
> 6. More colors available. Good life on kiln elements. Saves energy. Nee=
d=3D
> boron, zinc or other flux to get good melt.
>=3D20
> 1. Body not fully vitrified. Bright colors available. Even less energ=
y=3D
> consumption.
>=3D20
> How about somewhere in-between.
>=3D20
> What am I missing?
>=3D20
> I know that aesthetic can override all other factors but since I don't
> really have an established pottery self yet I'm open to any option.
>=3D20
> Feed me your comments to help me choose.
>=3D20
> Thanks...
> Earl...
> Deep in the woods of Oregon
Des & Jan Howard on wed 4 jan 12
Earl
Your ceramic edjamication is sadly lacking.
Check out the colours on our website. All fired
reduction Cone 10+ to Cone 12+.
Uses more fuel, so! If you want to tweak your firings
to save a widow's mite, well, bless your little cotton
socks.
The best aesthetic result is the bottom line, not the
best fuel/energy economy.
We don't make toilet bowls or house bricks.
Des
On 1/4/2012 8:18 AM, Earl Krueger wrote:
> Many people are doing cone 6. A past standard used to be cone 10. Mel
> says he is going to try 13. Tony is moving to earthenware at maybe cone =
1.
>
> It's a new year. My life has changed dramatically since I don't have the
> day job anymore. I don't have a long history with any one clay body or
> glaze so I'm thinking its time to start fresh again. And with a new kiln
> as well.
>
> But where?
>
> As I understand it, cone:
>
> 10+ brown except porcelain. Colors burn out. Can melt most any glaze.
> Uses more fuel.
>
> 6. More colors available. Good life on kiln elements. Saves energy. Nee=
d
> boron, zinc or other flux to get good melt.
>
> 1. Body not fully vitrified. Bright colors available. Even less energ=
y
> consumption.
>
> How about somewhere in-between.
>
> What am I missing?
>
> I know that aesthetic can override all other factors but since I don't
> really have an established pottery self yet I'm open to any option.
>
> Feed me your comments to help me choose.
>
> Thanks...
> Earl...
> Deep in the woods of Oregon
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
Lue NSW
Australia
2850
02 6373 6419
www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
-32.656072 149.840624
Rimas VisGirda on thu 5 jan 12
Nice para regarding earthenware, Snail. You can see a nice diversity in ear=
thenware at Signature Gallery & Shop; Red Clay Menagerie curated by Ron Mye=
rs. -Rimas
http://thesignatureshop.com/shop/index.php?family=3DRed%20Clay%20Menagerie
Snail wrote:
For the very low temps (aka earthenware), colors are easier
and cheaper. How much do you really spend on colorants,
though? It's not a critical factor, IMO. Firing cost, and - often
overlooked - equipment lifespan are more relevant. Most
relevant, however: Do you LIKE earthenware? It has a very
different physical presence - it has a look and feel quite
distinct from that of vitrified clay. When glazed, the distinction
can be muted, depending on the glaze, but aspects of that
feel remain. Some folks find it dry or punky, while others like
the softer, less harsh surface of earthenware clay. Up to you.
Earl Krueger on thu 5 jan 12
Ahhhhh, just as I hoped many of you chimed in to correct and educate me,
and with some 'most excellent' comments.
When I retired from the day job I said to my wife "Let the adventure
begin." Picking a new regime to work in is part of that adventure.
Toddlers invariably fall on their nose and cry, whether from pain or
frustration I know not. Since I'm still a toddler at this clay game I'm
sure I'll fall on my nose but hopefully I'll laugh.
Thanks.
Earl...
Shopping for a hockey face guard.
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