Karin Givon on mon 9 jan 12
My experiences with spraying on glazes for the past 15 years is a
little different from Dan's....and practice IS the key, of course. I
agree that the greatest problem is to spray too lightly. I put
multiple coats on. My best results, however, come from spraying until
there IS a sort of "dust layer" visible. I pick them up gently with
my fingers and the fingerprints don't show....usually. I AM going to
try Dan's trick of adding some CMC to the glazes. I do not like to
spray close enough for the glaze being sprayed to get shiny. I layer
and layer, and move on as soon as the shiny shows up...and round and
round I go. I'm sure I put many more than two coats on my pots. Most
of my glazes are translucent celadonish...Saturated colors need less
I think.
I have changed spray guns recently being unable to find a large blue
Paasche gun like the ones they used to make... ( they sent me a tiny
one, arghhh!!!, just because it's blue i think. Didn't spray enough
glaze to really work well, or at least it would have taken forever to
get enough glaze on.) Right now I'm adjusting to my new "Critter"
which I almost like but not quite, mostly because I can't find pint
size plastic jars for the glaze and quarts are a little to heavy. Be
sure to put enough glaze on the bottom of the pot, near the foot!
Easy to be too light there for some reason. I cover the foot with
another pot--a lid or something, so I can write my name in ceramic
pencil and clear glaze over it. Practice away! Don't give up if it's
not perfect. Good luck!
Karin Givon
DancingDragonPottery.net
On Jan 9, 2012, at 3:48 PM, Dan Saultman wrote:
Spraying glazes is a little different than dipping. To get the same
thickness as you would from dipping you may have to give your pieces
two coats with a resting period inbetween.
There are terrific opportunities for blending and feathering glazes
gently by spraying. The tendency, however is to spray too lightly a
coating. That is often because glazes that are sprayed must be
thinned out a lot more to consistantly spray through a spray gun. The
trick is to get up as close as you can with the spray while showing
shiny wetness, almost to the point of running. Overspraying and light
dusting while spraying will give you a leathery, slightly bumpy
finish. Pots with a delicate, dusty overspray surface makes handling
them tricky. I add some CMC gum to my glazes, it toughens up the
surface for handling and makes the glazes flow a little better. Fine
tune your spray gun to use as little air pressure as possible. Too
much and you are blowing glazes all over the room, too little and you
get a stippling textured effect. You can get a smooth glaze cover
with a little practice.
Good luck
Dan Saultman
Detroit
http://www.saultman.com
drake ash wrote,
hi all--i am newly set up with a spray booth. this is an area i have
been
interested in exploring for some time, as my frustration with dipping
pots
has grown (and as my pots have grown too big to dip at times) i know
there
are many philosophies about glazing--could those of you who do spray
suggest some basic steps or approaches for discovering how to best
use this
method? i feel that there might be the option for more subtlety, for
example...but where to begin? i am a hobbyist and fire in an electric
kiln
to cone 6. thanks in advance for your advice, friends!
drake ash
Dan Saultman on mon 9 jan 12
Spraying glazes is a little different than dipping. To get the same
thickness as you would from dipping you may have to give your pieces
two coats with a resting period inbetween.
There are terrific opportunities for blending and feathering glazes
gently by spraying. The tendency, however is to spray too lightly a
coating. That is often because glazes that are sprayed must be
thinned out a lot more to consistantly spray through a spray gun. The
trick is to get up as close as you can with the spray while showing
shiny wetness, almost to the point of running. Overspraying and light
dusting while spraying will give you a leathery, slightly bumpy
finish. Pots with a delicate, dusty overspray surface makes handling
them tricky. I add some CMC gum to my glazes, it toughens up the
surface for handling and makes the glazes flow a little better. Fine
tune your spray gun to use as little air pressure as possible. Too
much and you are blowing glazes all over the room, too little and you
get a stippling textured effect. You can get a smooth glaze cover
with a little practice.
Good luck
Dan Saultman
Detroit
http://www.saultman.com
drake ash wrote,
hi all--i am newly set up with a spray booth. this is an area i have
been
interested in exploring for some time, as my frustration with dipping
pots
has grown (and as my pots have grown too big to dip at times) i know
there
are many philosophies about glazing--could those of you who do spray
suggest some basic steps or approaches for discovering how to best
use this
method? i feel that there might be the option for more subtlety, for
example...but where to begin? i am a hobbyist and fire in an electric
kiln
to cone 6. thanks in advance for your advice, friends!
drake ash
Drake Ash on mon 9 jan 12
thanks dan and dinah--very helpful ideas. i think the spray gun i ended up
with may be too complicated for me...it was supplied by the guy who built
the booth for me, who is an artist.he had the gun and compressor already.
the compressor seems to need to "re-load" after a fairly brief time. is
this as it should be? my 81 year old (potter) mother is guiding me (and
funding this too!) she claims that her old compressor ran continuously
without a pause needed to pressure-up. also, i can see that despite a
powerful vent system the spray seems inclined to leave the booth--so maybe
the air is too forceful? i have to admit, i am overwhelmed already!
drake
On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 7:18 PM, wrote:
> Hi
>
> Good tips, but another one which will keep you from building up sprayed
> glaze in areas where it would be clunky and possibly form unwanted runnel=
s
> as in sprigged areas or handle junctures, or complicated slip cast forms
> where you want to keep glaze sleek: take a dampened sponge or a damp brus=
h
> and paint some clean water over the areas you wish to avoid build up on
> just before you spray. It's always easy to take some sheep's wool and
> gently rub down the runnels -- masked up of course -- but preventing them
> in the first instance is a Good Thing.
>
>
> Dinah
> Mount Vernon, WA.
> www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
> www.dinahsnipessteveni.wordpress.com
>
> "To obtain a certain thing, you have to become a certain person."
> Zen Buddhist saying
>
Paul Lewing on tue 10 jan 12
> I've used the Critter sprayer for years, but like Karin I view the
> glass jar
it came with as a problem.
I have a Critter, but I've never used it because I have a Paasche L
sprayer, the well built steel version that the Critter is a cheap
imitation of. One thing that makes this kind of sprayer nice as
opposed to regular paint spray guns is that they work by creating a
vacuum by blowing air across the end of the feeder tube, rather than
pumping air into the canister to force the paint out through the gun.
So actually, you don't need a canister at all. If you slip a piece of
the right size rubber tubing over the bottom end of the feeder tube,
it will suck glaze right out of the bucket. You might need to turn
the air pressure up a tad if you're sucking it all the way from the
floor, but it works just as well as putting the glaze in the canister.
It works especially well if you're really spraying a lot of the same
glaze. No refilling the canister.
Paul Lewing
www.paullewingtile.com
www.paullewingart.com
Des & Jan Howard on tue 10 jan 12
Drake
To stop blowback & not wanting to wear a
respirator/mask, we installed a sliding polycarbonate
screen.
http://www.luepottery.hwy.com.au/spraybooth.htm
Des
On 1/10/2012 1:49 PM, Drake Ash wrote:
> ...i can see that despite a
> powerful vent system the spray seems inclined to leave the booth--so mayb=
e
> the air is too forceful?
--
Des & Jan Howard
Lue Pottery
Lue NSW
Australia
2850
02 6373 6419
www.luepottery.hwy.com.au
-32.656072 149.840624
Eva Gallagher on tue 10 jan 12
Just a couple of tips - if you use Klennex to handle your sprayed pots then
you will not leave any marks. Also our Critter gun seems to leave larger
drops and so needs to be handled with Kleenex. The other sprayers - with th=
e
bottles on top vaporize the glaze more into finer particles and so mostly
can be handled with bare hands
Also Karen for our Critter gun we use the pint sized glass canning jars -
which is what our old Critter came with. Can't believe how much the Critter
has increased in price - almost doubled in the last 5 years or so. It used
to be that the Critter was cheaper than the others but not so any more - at
least here in Canada.
I agree with Karen - don't spray too close as often it will tend to blast
the old layer away a bit and I just spray until the glaze barely begins to
look wet and use many layers - depends on glaze etc.
Eva Gallagher
Deep River, Ontario
http://newfoundoutpotter.blogspot.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karin Givon"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 12:21 AM
Subject: Re: Learning to Spray Glazes
> My experiences with spraying on glazes for the past 15 years is a
> little different from Dan's....and practice IS the key, of course. I
> agree that the greatest problem is to spray too lightly. I put
> multiple coats on. My best results, however, come from spraying until
> there IS a sort of "dust layer" visible. I pick them up gently with
> my fingers and the fingerprints don't show....usually. I AM going to
> try Dan's trick of adding some CMC to the glazes. I do not like to
> spray close enough for the glaze being sprayed to get shiny. I layer
> and layer, and move on as soon as the shiny shows up...and round and
> round I go. I'm sure I put many more than two coats on my pots. Most
> of my glazes are translucent celadonish...Saturated colors need less
> I think.
> I have changed spray guns recently being unable to find a large blue
> Paasche gun like the ones they used to make... ( they sent me a tiny
> one, arghhh!!!, just because it's blue i think. Didn't spray enough
> glaze to really work well, or at least it would have taken forever to
> get enough glaze on.) Right now I'm adjusting to my new "Critter"
> which I almost like but not quite, mostly because I can't find pint
> size plastic jars for the glaze and quarts are a little to heavy. Be
> sure to put enough glaze on the bottom of the pot, near the foot!
> Easy to be too light there for some reason. I cover the foot with
> another pot--a lid or something, so I can write my name in ceramic
> pencil and clear glaze over it. Practice away! Don't give up if it's
> not perfect. Good luck!
>
> Karin Givon
> DancingDragonPottery.net
>>
Snail Scott on tue 10 jan 12
On Jan 9, 2012, at 8:49 PM, Drake Ash wrote:
> thanks dan and dinah--very helpful ideas. i think the spray gun i ended u=
p
> with may be too complicated for me...it was supplied by the guy who built
> the booth for me, who is an artist.he had the gun and compressor already.
> ...the compressor seems to need to "re-load" after a fairly brief time. i=
s
> this as it should be? my 81 year old (potter) mother is guiding me (and
> funding this too!) she claims that her old compressor ran continuously
> without a pause needed to pressure-up...
Pause? Normally, a compressor will run until it
gets up to its maximum tank pressure. Then it quits
until you use enough air that it needs to 're-stock'.
Smaller compressors need to run continuously
because either 1: the tank is so small that you use
up the air as fast as it can compress it, or 2: It
can't compress it to very much more pressure than
you are using it at, so what's in the tank isn't much
of a reserve.
A higher-powered compressor can 1: store enough
air that there is plenty waiting to be used before the
compressor needs to re-fill again, or 2: The compressor
is able to store it at such high pressures that when it's
stepped down by the regulator to your actual usage
pressure, it'll be a while before it needs to re-fill again.
That's why the high-dollar compressors have big tanks
and high pressure capacity, even if you don't need the
max pressure. They only have to run now and then
while still giving lots of air at high pressures.
When the compressor is doing its noisy racket, it's
working to pressurize the air until it's full. When it goes
quiet, that's because it's done until you use up the air
it's stored for you. It's not a better thing for a compressor
to have to run continuously. It means it's running at its
maximum capability all the time just to keep up with
you. If that is sufficient, then it's not bad, necessarily, but
it's not good, either.
No mechanical noises are necessary to use the stored
air - the air pressure alone will push the air through your
sprayer. When it's quiet and not running, that's a good
thing! It means you have some peace and quiet while
you work, and that your compressor's function is ample
for your needs. Rejoice!
-Snail
Karin Givon on tue 10 jan 12
Glaze in a glass jar gives me the WILLIES!! LIke fingernails on a
blackboard--but wait! Are there still blackboards? Or are they all
white? Anyway, I"m gonna research pint size mayo jars for my critter
altho I'm not totally sold on it. Any advice for a Really Good Spray
Gun would be appreciated.
Karin
On Jan 10, 2012, at 5:36 AM, Eva Gallagher wrote:
Just a couple of tips - if you use Klennex to handle your sprayed
pots then you will not leave any marks. Also our Critter gun seems to
leave larger drops and so needs to be handled with Kleenex. The other
sprayers - with the bottles on top vaporize the glaze more into finer
particles and so mostly can be handled with bare hands
Also Karen for our Critter gun we use the pint sized glass canning
jars - which is what our old Critter came with. Can't believe how
much the Critter has increased in price - almost doubled in the last
5 years or so. It used to be that the Critter was cheaper than the
others but not so any more - at least here in Canada.
I agree with Karen - don't spray too close as often it will tend to
blast the old layer away a bit and I just spray until the glaze
barely begins to look wet and use many layers - depends on glaze etc.
Eva Gallagher
Deep River, Ontario
http://newfoundoutpotter.blogspot.com/
----- Original Message ----- From: "Karin Givon"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 12:21 AM
Subject: Re: Learning to Spray Glazes
> My experiences with spraying on glazes for the past 15 years is a
> little different from Dan's....and practice IS the key, of course. I
> agree that the greatest problem is to spray too lightly. I put
> multiple coats on. My best results, however, come from spraying until
> there IS a sort of "dust layer" visible. I pick them up gently with
> my fingers and the fingerprints don't show....usually. I AM going to
> try Dan's trick of adding some CMC to the glazes. I do not like to
> spray close enough for the glaze being sprayed to get shiny. I layer
> and layer, and move on as soon as the shiny shows up...and round and
> round I go. I'm sure I put many more than two coats on my pots. Most
> of my glazes are translucent celadonish...Saturated colors need less
> I think.
> I have changed spray guns recently being unable to find a large blue
> Paasche gun like the ones they used to make... ( they sent me a tiny
> one, arghhh!!!, just because it's blue i think. Didn't spray enough
> glaze to really work well, or at least it would have taken forever to
> get enough glaze on.) Right now I'm adjusting to my new "Critter"
> which I almost like but not quite, mostly because I can't find pint
> size plastic jars for the glaze and quarts are a little to heavy. Be
> sure to put enough glaze on the bottom of the pot, near the foot!
> Easy to be too light there for some reason. I cover the foot with
> another pot--a lid or something, so I can write my name in ceramic
> pencil and clear glaze over it. Practice away! Don't give up if it's
> not perfect. Good luck!
>
> Karin Givon
> DancingDragonPottery.net
KATHI LESUEUR on tue 10 jan 12
On Jan 10, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Karin Givon wrote:
> Glaze in a glass jar gives me the WILLIES!! LIke fingernails on a
> blackboard--but wait! Are there still blackboards? Or are they all
> white? Anyway, I"m gonna research pint size mayo jars for my critter
> altho I'm not totally sold on it. Any advice for a Really Good Spray
> Gun would be appreciated.
> Karin
>=3D20
I've used the Critter sprayer for years, but like Karin I view the glass =
=3D
jar it came with as a problem. It really became a problem years ago when =
=3D
I was trying to get the stuck lid off. The glass broke in my hand and =3D
sliced it. I was very lucky. I needed nine stitches to close the cut but =
=3D
no muscle were injured. To avoid the glass jar issue I took a Jif peanut =
=3D
butter jar lid, drilled holes in it to fit the sprayer and have used =3D
the plastic jars to spray ever since.=3D20
KATHI LESUEUR
http://www.lesueurclaywork.com
jd.steveni@COMCAST.NET on tue 10 jan 12
Hi
Good tips, but another one which will keep you from building up sprayed gla=
ze in areas where it would be clunky and possibly form unwanted runnels as =
in sprigged areas or handle junctures, or complicated slip cast forms where=
you want to keep glaze sleek: take a dampened sponge or a damp brush and p=
aint some clean water over the areas you wish to avoid build up on just bef=
ore you spray. It's always easy to take some sheep's wool and gently rub do=
wn the runnels -- masked up of course -- but preventing them in the first i=
nstance is a Good Thing.
Dinah
Mount Vernon, WA.
www.dinahsnipessteveni.com
www.dinahsnipessteveni.wordpress.com
"To obtain a certain thing, you have to become a certain person."
Zen Buddhist saying
Eva Gallagher on tue 10 jan 12
What a great idea screwing it onto another lid! We'll have to try that.
Eva Gallagher
Deep River, Ontario
http://newfoundoutpotter.blogspot.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "KATHI LESUEUR"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2012 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: Learning to Spray Glazes
On Jan 10, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Karin Givon wrote:
> Glaze in a glass jar gives me the WILLIES!! LIke fingernails on a
> blackboard--but wait! Are there still blackboards? Or are they all
> white? Anyway, I"m gonna research pint size mayo jars for my critter
> altho I'm not totally sold on it. Any advice for a Really Good Spray
> Gun would be appreciated.
> Karin
>
I've used the Critter sprayer for years, but like Karin I view the glass ja=
r
it came with as a problem. It really became a problem years ago when I was
trying to get the stuck lid off. The glass broke in my hand and sliced it. =
I
was very lucky. I needed nine stitches to close the cut but no muscle were
injured. To avoid the glass jar issue I took a Jif peanut butter jar lid,
drilled holes in it to fit the sprayer and have used the plastic jars to
spray ever since.
KATHI LESUEUR
http://www.lesueurclaywork.com
Nefsigh@AOL.COM on wed 11 jan 12
Having sprayed under glazes, glazes and the like for more than 30 years
here's a couple of suggestions--
Wear a damn good respirator--even if you have good ventilation--back spray
is present even if you "don't see it".
Also, i do most of my spraying semi-outdoors and have made a set up that
allows me to collect the over spray (you will get a lot) and when i am done=
,
I just scrape the dried powder up and back into the containers. I use
butcher paper tenting and replace the paper as I change colors. With the c=
ost of
everything escalating, recycling glaze is not too small to consider.
Good luck.
Lenny Dowhie
In a message dated 1/9/2012 6:02:38 P.M. Central Standard Time,
design@SAULTMAN.COM writes:
Spraying glazes is a little different than dipping. To get the same
thickness as you would from dipping you may have to give your pieces
two coats with a resting period inbetween.
There are terrific opportunities for blending and feathering glazes
gently by spraying. The tendency, however is to spray too lightly a
coating. That is often because glazes that are sprayed must be
thinned out a lot more to consistantly spray through a spray gun. The
trick is to get up as close as you can with the spray while showing
shiny wetness, almost to the point of running. Overspraying and light
dusting while spraying will give you a leathery, slightly bumpy
finish. Pots with a delicate, dusty overspray surface makes handling
them tricky. I add some CMC gum to my glazes, it toughens up the
surface for handling and makes the glazes flow a little better. Fine
tune your spray gun to use as little air pressure as possible. Too
much and you are blowing glazes all over the room, too little and you
get a stippling textured effect. You can get a smooth glaze cover
with a little practice.
Good luck
Dan Saultman
Detroit
http://www.saultman.com
drake ash wrote,
hi all--i am newly set up with a spray booth. this is an area i have
been
interested in exploring for some time, as my frustration with dipping
pots
has grown (and as my pots have grown too big to dip at times) i know
there
are many philosophies about glazing--could those of you who do spray
suggest some basic steps or approaches for discovering how to best
use this
method? i feel that there might be the option for more subtlety, for
example...but where to begin? i am a hobbyist and fire in an electric
kiln
to cone 6. thanks in advance for your advice, friends!
drake ash
Drake Ash on wed 11 jan 12
after reading all of the above i have decided that i need a 60's style
"intervention!" i wish all of you could descend on my house and studio,
take over my brain and modify the set-up i have to incorporate all these
great ideas...a spray booth intervention! seriously, i continue to marvel
at the depth and scope of the expertise potters have. not just creating
beautiful things that are useful as well, but understanding mechanics of
chemistry, fire and heat--being able to build things and alter things and
comprehend what is needed to carry out concepts. thank you all so much for
your generous sharing of information! i will report back when i have
achieved some modest success.
cheers,
drake
On Tue, Jan 10, 2012 at 11:42 PM, Paul Lewing wrote:
> I've used the Critter sprayer for years, but like Karin I view the
>> glass jar
>>
> it came with as a problem.
>
> I have a Critter, but I've never used it because I have a Paasche L
> sprayer, the well built steel version that the Critter is a cheap
> imitation of. One thing that makes this kind of sprayer nice as
> opposed to regular paint spray guns is that they work by creating a
> vacuum by blowing air across the end of the feeder tube, rather than
> pumping air into the canister to force the paint out through the gun.
> So actually, you don't need a canister at all. If you slip a piece of
> the right size rubber tubing over the bottom end of the feeder tube,
> it will suck glaze right out of the bucket. You might need to turn
> the air pressure up a tad if you're sucking it all the way from the
> floor, but it works just as well as putting the glaze in the canister.
> It works especially well if you're really spraying a lot of the same
> glaze. No refilling the canister.
> Paul Lewing
> www.paullewingtile.com
> www.paullewingart.com
>
Patty Kaliher on wed 11 jan 12
Much of this has already been covered but here is my experience.
First the glazes need to be thinner than those usually used for dipping. =
=3D
Sieving the glaze can help in preventing a clogged sprayer. Like spray =
=3D
painting, spray but avoid so much that you get sags. Many light coats =3D
is better than to heavy with drips running down the sides. =3D20
Spraying insides is impossible, the blowback takes the glaze right out =3D
of the pot or bowl and into your face which is of course covered with a =3D
good respirator. So I pour liner glazes inside my pieces and let them =3D
dry before spraying. Blow back also makes it difficult to get glaze =3D
around the bottom of the pot. Turn it upside down or lift it into the =3D
air to spray the bottom =3D20
I have a very simple sprayer. It is like a canning jar (plastic) with a =
=3D
tube going down into the glaze and the pistol grip sprayer blowing =3D
across the top pulling the spray out of the jar. I use about 20 -25 psi =
=3D
which may be to much. I have one of those sprayers with the reservoir =3D
on top but have not tried it yet. A small compressor is fine. =3D
I=3DCA=3DBBve found 3 coats is minimum and some of my glazes really require=
=3D
9 coats. I=3DCA=3DBBll often do 6 coats of one glaze under and 3 coats of =
=3D
another over. I used to use a banding wheel and turn it slowly with one =
=3D
hand while spraying with the other. My husband took the turntable =3D
apparatus out of a microwave he found at the dump [CAUTION: unplugged =3D
microwaves can still kill you, be sure you know what you are doing.] and =
=3D
I now use that, turns at the perfect speed for spraying.=3D20
Don=3DCA=3DBBt let the sprayer sit and the glaze dry and clog the apparatus=
. =3D
I always put water in the reservoir after cleaning the sprayer and =3D
spray water to clean the nozzle. Some potters have several hoses and =3D
sprayers hooked up at one time and can move from one glaze to the next =3D
by just picking up the next sprayer. They also have a bigger compressor =
=3D
tank. A quick-connect on the end of your air hose is a must. =3D20
The sprayed surface is different from the dipped, touching it may or may =
=3D
not affect the outcome. I try to handle the pieces from the inside or =3D
with fingers on foot and rim. As to all the glaze that ends up on the =3D
bottom and sides of the hood, I scrap that into a container which will =3D
become my mystery glaze. Probably black. The hood filter (mine uses a =3D
furnace filter) gets carried carefully outside to the trash. I also am =3D
a hobbyist firing to cone 6 electric.
What I like about spraying is that I don=3DCA=3DBBt have to have gallons of=
=3D
glaze necessary for dipping. In fact I can use quart size bottles of =3D
all those commercial glazes for sale at the ceramic supply store and mix =
=3D
and match with my own small batches.
Enjoy. Once you start spraying you may never dip again.
Patty Kaliher
Sandy Henderson on wed 11 jan 12
I have been happy with my Bailey spray gun (siphon gun like the Critter) be=
=3D
cause I can switch glazes easily. I don=3DE2=3D80=3D99t even screw on jars=
, just=3D
switch from one smallish (like 24 oz. yogurt) container to another, someti=
=3D
mes with a rinse in between. This works because I have a turntable that rev=
=3D
olves on its own -- my otherwise underused Artista wheel =3DE2=3D80=3D93 so=
I hav=3D
e hands free for the gun and glaze. I haven't had the problem of large drop=
=3D
lets.
I am also pleased with my 2-hp Makita air compressor. It is affordable, qui=
=3D
et (YAY, no more ear protection!), easy to move around, and has plenty enou=
=3D
gh power for glazing.=3D20
The one thing I really dislike about spraying =3DE2=3D80=3D93 now that I ha=
ve sol=3D
ved the compressor noise problem =3DE2=3D80=3D93 is clean-up. I wish my spr=
ay boo=3D
th had a design like Stephen Hill=3DE2=3D80=3D99s, with water running down =
the si=3D
des! In the warm months I spray and clean up outside, much easier. The air =
=3D
is better, too.
Sandy Henderson
-----------------------------
>Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2012 08:36:41 -0500
>From: Eva Gallagher
>Subject: Re: Learning to Spray Glazes
>
>Just a couple of tips - if you use Klennex to handle your sprayed pots the=
=3D
n
>you will not leave any marks. Also our Critter gun seems to leave larger
>drops and so needs to be handled with Kleenex. The other sprayers - with t=
=3D
he
>bottles on top vaporize the glaze more into finer particles and so mostly
>can be handled with bare hands
>Also Karen for our Critter gun we use the pint sized glass canning jars -
>which is what our old Critter came with. Can't believe how much the Critte=
=3D
r
>has increased in price - almost doubled in the last 5 years or so. It used
>to be that the Critter was cheaper than the others but not so any more - a=
=3D
t
>least here in Canada.
>I agree with Karen - don't spray too close as often it will tend to blast
>the old layer away a bit and I just spray until the glaze barely begins to
>look wet and use many layers - depends on glaze etc.
>Eva Gallagher
>Deep River, Ontario
>http://newfoundoutpotter.blogspot.com/
Flo Fahrenheit on tue 17 jan 12
I have researched this spraying glaze business quite a lot, and feel I =3D
owe it to others to share this information. I have given lots of details =
=3D
to help save you extra trips to the hardware store. It's helpful if you =
=3D
take your gun with you when you go to buy the hose and couplers =3D
mentioned below.=3D20
There are 2 excellent DVDs available on spraying glazes:
1) The Surface Techniques of Steven Hill, 90 mins. Buy it on Ceramic =3D
Arts Daily website. The web site says it costs $50, with free shipping, =3D
but when I clicked the "buy it" button, it ended up costing $39. Get a =3D
friend to buy it with you. It is well worth the money. =3D
http://ceramicartsdaily.org/bookstore/the-surface-techniques-of-steven-hil=
=3D
l/
Ceramic Arts Daily shows part of the DVD where Steven does a demo on how =
=3D
he applies "oozy texture with slip" to his pots, so you might not =3D
realize that the DVD is really about how to spray glazes. Hill provides =3D
a recommended firing schedule plus 9 recipes for ^ 6 electric glazes =3D
specifically for spraying, then he demos his layering techniques on a =3D
tall vessel, a cup, and a shallow bowl. He shows several different =3D
spray guns, both syphon and gravity feed styles. And talks some about =3D
compressors. He is in agreement with the size compressor I describe =3D
below.
2) Instructional DVD on How to use the Geil Spray Gun, featuring Tom =3D
Coleman using the gun. He demos hooking up the gun to your compressor, =3D
filling the glaze cup, spraying a pot, then emptying the cup to change =3D
glaze colors. What's best is that he shows you what all the knobs on the =
=3D
gun are for, and how to take the gun apart to clean it. He also talks =3D
about compressors. Even if you buy a different brand of gravity feed =3D
gun, I think this DVD will teach you a lot.
Spray Guns: Steven Hill comments in his DVD that the Geil gravity feed =3D
spray gun is a good all around gun, plus it was designed specifically =3D
for ceramic slips and glazes so it is less likely to clog up. Cost is =3D
$50, plus $5 for the metal holding rack, plus shipping You can buy the =3D
DVD and Gun from Geil kilns web site http://www.kilns.com/ (800) =3D
887-4345. Harbor Freight also sells some less expensive Central =3D
Pneumatic HVLP (high volume low pressure) gravity feed guns.
Compressors: Geil Kiln Co recommended a compressor from Harbor Freight =3D
Co: the Central Pneumatic 2 horsepower, 8 gallon, 125 PSI, portable =3D
electric air compressor, $119. Plus $20 for 2 year warranty. =3D
http://www.harborfreight.com Geil emphasizes you should get a =3D
compressor that uses oil - NOT the oil-less type. The manual for this =3D
compressor tells you about a few additional things you need to buy: an =3D
in-line shutoff ball valve; an regulator with pressure gauge that you =3D
attach to the the hose right at the gun, plumber's silicon tape for =3D
screwing on the couplers, a 1/4 inch hose, 16 oz compressor oil.
The compressor comes with one "female" quick-coupler attachment already =3D
installed, but you also need to buy one additional female and 2 male =3D
quick couplers for attaching the hose to the compressor and the gun (the =
=3D
male parts come with threads inside or outside, the threads need to =3D
match the hose, and also the gun, (so bring your gun with you). You =3D
will also need to buy a 1/4 inch hose, at least 25 ft long, (NOT the =3D
coiled up style). The compressor is REALLY loud, and vibrates. You will =3D
want to put it as far away as possible - in another room, or outside, =3D
so you want a hose that is long enough to reach your job. Try to find a =3D
hose that is light weight and flexible, to make working with it more =3D
comfortable.
Once you watch the DVDs all this will make sense!!
Good luck!
Flo Fahrenheit
ArtMonkey88@gmail.com
Michelle Hamilton on tue 24 jan 12
I agree with art monkey it is an outstanding sprayer and DVD for the best=
=3D
=3D20
price around. Great flexibility in spray diameter and particle adjustment=
=3D
. BUT=3D20
it has issues as well. The lid system is poorly designed and requires a =
=3D
very=3D20
small plug (less than a dime size)to keep the glaze in the canister whene=
=3D
ver=3D20
you change colors. In a small private studio, this plug has a bit of a =
=3D
chance=3D20
of not being lost in all the washing and storing that a sprayer takes. I=
=3D
t=3D20
however has NO chance of being kept safe in a group setting. Ridiculousl=
=3D
y,=3D20
Geil does not sell lids and plugs separately. What this means is that in=
=3D
order=3D20
to spray multiple layers of different glazes you must completely clean ou=
=3D
t the=3D20
canister each time. A huge waste of time and glaze. I love mine and kee=
=3D
p it=3D20
at home but will never purchase another one for our tight budgeted small=3D=
20=3D
university.=3D20
Michelle Hamilton
St. Louis, MO
On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:22:31 -0800, Flo Fahrenheit=3D20
wrote:
>I have researched this spraying glaze business quite a lot, and feel I o=
=3D
we it=3D20
to others to share this information. I have given lots of details to help=
=3D
save=3D20
you extra trips to the hardware store. It's helpful if you take your gun=
=3D
with=3D20
you when you go to buy the hose and couplers mentioned below.=3D20
>
>There are 2 excellent DVDs available on spraying glazes:
>
>1) The Surface Techniques of Steven Hill, 90 mins. Buy it on Ceramic Art=
=3D
s=3D20
Daily website. The web site says it costs $50, with free shipping, but wh=
=3D
en I=3D20
clicked the "buy it" button, it ended up costing $39. Get a friend to buy=
=3D
it with=3D20
you. It is well worth the money. http://ceramicartsdaily.org/bookstore/=
=3D
the-
surface-techniques-of-steven-hill/
>
>Ceramic Arts Daily shows part of the DVD where Steven does a demo on=3D20
how he applies "oozy texture with slip" to his pots, so you might not rea=
=3D
lize=3D20
that the DVD is really about how to spray glazes. Hill provides a=3D20
recommended firing schedule plus 9 recipes for ^ 6 electric glazes specif=
=3D
ically=3D20
for spraying, then he demos his layering techniques on a tall vessel, a c=
=3D
up,=3D20
and a shallow bowl. He shows several different spray guns, both syphon a=
=3D
nd=3D20
gravity feed styles. And talks some about compressors. He is in agreemen=
=3D
t=3D20
with the size compressor I describe below.
>
>2) Instructional DVD on How to use the Geil Spray Gun, featuring Tom=3D20
Coleman using the gun. He demos hooking up the gun to your compressor,=3D20=
=3D
filling the glaze cup, spraying a pot, then emptying the cup to change gl=
=3D
aze=3D20
colors. What's best is that he shows you what all the knobs on the gun ar=
=3D
e for,=3D20
and how to take the gun apart to clean it. He also talks about compressor=
=3D
s.=3D20=3D20
Even if you buy a different brand of gravity feed gun, I think this DVD w=
=3D
ill=3D20
teach you a lot.
>
>Spray Guns: Steven Hill comments in his DVD that the Geil gravity feed=3D2=
0=3D
spray gun is a good all around gun, plus it was designed specifically for=
=3D
=3D20
ceramic slips and glazes so it is less likely to clog up. Cost is $50, pl=
=3D
us $5 for=3D20
the metal holding rack, plus shipping You can buy the DVD and Gun from G=
=3D
eil=3D20
kilns web site http://www.kilns.com/ (800) 887-4345. Harbor Freight als=
=3D
o=3D20
sells some less expensive Central Pneumatic HVLP (high volume low pressur=
=3D
e)=3D20
gravity feed guns.
>
>Compressors: Geil Kiln Co recommended a compressor from Harbor Freight=3D2=
0=3D
Co: the Central Pneumatic 2 horsepower, 8 gallon, 125 PSI, portable elect=
=3D
ric=3D20
air compressor, $119. Plus $20 for 2 year warranty.=3D20
http://www.harborfreight.com Geil emphasizes you should get a compressor=
=3D
=3D20
that uses oil - NOT the oil-less type. The manual for this compressor tel=
=3D
ls you=3D20
about a few additional things you need to buy: an in-line shutoff ball va=
=3D
lve; an=3D20
regulator with pressure gauge that you attach to the the hose right at th=
=3D
e gun,=3D20
plumber's silicon tape for screwing on the couplers, a 1/4 inch hose, 16 =
=3D
oz=3D20
compressor oil.
>
>The compressor comes with one "female" quick-coupler attachment already=3D=
20=3D
installed, but you also need to buy one additional female and 2 male quic=
=3D
k=3D20
couplers for attaching the hose to the compressor and the gun (the male p=
=3D
arts=3D20
come with threads inside or outside, the threads need to match the hose, =
=3D
and=3D20
also the gun, (so bring your gun with you). You will also need to buy a =
=3D
1/4=3D20
inch hose, at least 25 ft long, (NOT the coiled up style). The compressor=
=3D
is=3D20
REALLY loud, and vibrates. You will want to put it as far away as possibl=
=3D
e - in=3D20
another room, or outside, so you want a hose that is long enough to reach=
=3D
=3D20
your job. Try to find a hose that is light weight and flexible, to make w=
=3D
orking=3D20
with it more comfortable.
>
>Once you watch the DVDs all this will make sense!!
>
>Good luck!
>Flo Fahrenheit
>ArtMonkey88@gmail.com
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