Lili Krakowski on thu 19 jan 12
Yes, there is some "formula" about relative lid vs pot opening =3D
shrinkage. I remember reading it long ago, looked through my books =3D
after reading Taylor's message--and did not find. I do remember it has =3D
to do with diameter and circumference--but now what?
However: Good lids need consistency with the pot's opening, and =3D
"strength". From watching students' work I conclude troublesome lids =3D
mostly are weak lids. They are not thick and strong enough on their =3D
own, they are flimsy little afterthoughts--and show it.
It is not easy to be a good lid.=3D20
Thrown upside down from a hump, the knob tends to be left too heavy, and =
=3D
the lip too thin. The lid therefore shrinks more at the edge than at =3D
the knob. Thrown as a bowl, with knob attached later, the same problem =3D
can occur...The easiest-getting-to-fit lid, I think, is the one thrown =3D
knob up, directly on wheel, the type that sits in a deep gallery.
Cloche type lids--such as used on butter dishes--are the most =3D
annoying--they must coincide in shrinkage with the little ridge that =3D
holds them in place on the pot.
Hints: Dry lid on pot, to insure they shrink together. If this can not =3D
be done, delay the drying of the pot's top/gallery. Wax works well, but =
=3D
a damp box does too. Dry slowly. When pot and lid are dry, fit them =3D
together, put on your mask, and "grind" the lid against/on the pot. =3D
That takes care of most inequalities.
Lili Krakowski
Be of good courage
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